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We have used the ru-vid.comUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
I know this is an older post but I was having problems keeping my Generator running, I was just about to get "stuck-in" starting with all the usual checks. I decided to watch this video first and I had forgotten about ensuring the main RV gas tank was above 1/4 full. Off to the gas station, fill up the gas tank. Arrive home try the generator , Runs Perfect;y. Just goes to show you Can teach and Old Dog new tricks. Thanks so much saving me hours of trouble shooting.
Thank you for your work. You have inspired me to take on the fuel pump replacement project, and IM no mechanic. Your step by step and pointers are very helpful. Thanks again.
Great video, and yes, it worked. I had just the problem you described. Generator ran fine for about 20-30 minutes then stopped. Fuel was not getting through. Ordered the parts, followed your video, and it runs perfectly now. Thanks Tito!
Very Good Video, I would also add a inline fuel filter under the vehicle before the fuel pump and filter, it will protect the pump and keep the hard to reach filter clean, they are easy to install, cheap to replace and good insurance.........
Could you recommend me a specific one? I’m planning on doing this job soon and am not too familiar with which inline filter you’ve mentioned. I have an Onan 4000.
As a generator tech i see people add fuel filters all the time. Not a good idea. It creates more restriction on the vacuum side (before pump) and makes the pump work too hard and overheat windings in pump or blows the diaphram. Just use onans stock filter. Easier to replace that filter than pumps every 100 hrs. Also i recommend the stock oem onan pump. The airtex is slightly higher psi and while it will work and is half the price. Onan has dpecifically used a low psi pump to prevent tbe fuel bowl on carb from over pressuring the float valve and having fuel come back out the carb. Many of the cheap ebay and amazon pumps can be 3x as much pressure and this can and will cause a fire. I have yet to see that with an airtex pump and used them quite often when i first started gen repair but we did some testing in class and it was about 4psi for airtex and 2.5 for onan and the leak point of new carbs was 4-6 psi and old carbs was 3-5 so veryy close to leak point. Just my advice but i have realized oem parts are the only way to go for onans. Even air filters were suprisingly important...oem are fireproof aftermarket are not. A little back flow of fuel on them and poof. Rv burns down. Dont go with cheap parts on a 3000 dollar generator. They have to run exactly right or it ruins expensive parts and can cause fires. Whatever u do ONLY USE ONAN OEM CARBS these knock offs dont work leak fuel everywhere and run tbe gen at the wrong rpm and mixture ruining your genset. Ive warned you so make your own decision. Happy rving
I love your diy’s ..... their very easy to follow and well described....a home run! One addition to your check the gas tank gauge suggestion...while doing this make sure that the vehicle is level .... i learned this the hard way ....as soon as i leveled the coach all was o.k. and the generator ran as it should...
Thankyou Brian for once again providing insight into a solution for a perplexing problem that obviously many of us have experienced. I'm assuming what we see on the video is a re-creation of the steps that finally led to the discovery of what this fault was with your fuel pump : It cuts off but only when it reaches a temperature it doesn't like, but after a cool down period, it will work again until the temp rises again. I too got fuel running through the initial "disconnected tube into the bucket" when the pump was in it's "cool" state. What I didn't realize until later was that I needed to re-run the tube/bucket test just after the genset shuts down after running fine for several minutes. Re-test results: no fuel flow! Let system cool for a couple hours (for me anyway as I live in Phoenix) then I re-ran the tube/bucket test again and the fuel was flowing. The Genset started right up but quit after a few minutes (as I expected it would after re-heating). You may want to edit the video (the typed popup verbiage?) for future viewers to see and comprehend the whole procedure and what the pump is doing under different conditions. To the viewers who are going to do these tests : Make sure nothing distracts you while you you have the fuel line disconnected and feeding a catch receptacle and activating the stop/prime/start button, especially once the genset and exhaust pipes, etc are HOT. Take safety precautions - no loved ones (inquisitive pets included) near, position yourself for quick retreat, possibly have fire extinguisher ready, possibly an observer to call 911 if an emergency occurs that has your focus. And viewers - it's possible that any complex "system" can be affected by more than one piece of the system.
I had a fuel pump that passed this test. I tried everything so I took it to a specialist. The fuel pump was bad and had to be replaced! It ran great after that!
thank you Tito for your video on how to fix a generator I did what you said on mine cuz I was having issues with it and I was able to get it running and started so thanks for all your help in making this video
I believe the reason the 1/4 full tank need is safety in addition to the dip tube (pickup tube) being only so long. In addition to being on your dash(fuel level) it leaves enough gas to get to a gas station in emergency situations (you need your RV moving more than that air conditioner). Hope that helps clear some things up.
Soon to be a fulltimer coming next year, doing as much research on everything to do with RV and maintenance I can do myself in certain instances, I was a firefighter for 17 yrs so I know understand the importance of checking all your equipment on the rig before, during and after so these are the kind of videos I really enjoy. Kinda have only one itty bitty thing.....when you make your videos can you leave out the music, I find it a bit distracting and would rather listen to what you are explaining. Thanks for al the great info.
After a couple hours chasing a starting problem I watched this video. I had no clue that a low RV fuel level could keep the generator from starting, but it did. I filled the tank and the generator fired right up. THANK YOU!!!
My wife and I started a long deserved RV vacation and we thought we had everything fix in our rv, First day was ok, we were hooked up to shore power at a hotsprings resort but the second day I realized I had forgotten my insulin and my son made th 2 hour trip, but then he wanted to turn on the A/C and the generator wouldn't work, So he stated trouble shooting it and after an hour later the conclusion was that the Tube that goes into the gasoline tank, from where the generator gasoline feed was, Was broken and needed to be replaced I had a 1/2 Tank of fuel and l always drive 60 and rarely 65 and made it home easy the gasoline tank was empty and was much ez easier to bring down the gas tank and replace all the old gas lines.
Good video, but it would be so much better if all video's, not only yours, were made "actually performing" the work, not describing what was done after the work has been completed.
It all started when I turned the A/C off when we got back from a trip. Now the gen runs for about 10 to 20 seconds and cuts off. On the starter control, It's giving me 3 blinks. I press stop and it gives me 1 blink with a pause followed by 4 blinks. Not sure if that would be considered a 35 code. I am totally lost on it. I will say this video is awesome though. I will try everything mentioned before taking it to Texas RV here in San Antonio. I had rather shell out a few bucks instead of a few thousand.....LOL
Question: right where the start switch is I get 3 blinking red light it is for service. My question is do the 3 blinking light go away when you do an oil change or how does it go away
Steve Christo I replaced my controller with a flight systems control board. Love it! No more failures based upon 35 some odd Onan codes! The only way it will die now is if it loses air, fuel or spark.
Steve Christo I replaced my controller with a flight systems control board. Love it! No more failures based upon 35 some odd Onan codes! The only way it will die now is if it loses air, fuel or spark.
Thanks for the informative video, Tito ! I followed your suggestions & put in a new fuel pump & filter, but my Onan STILL cuts out after 10 to 15 min of solid running (no surging). I checked the new fuel pump & it shoots out a steady stream. I'm embarrassed to admit I DIDNT check the old fuel pump for gas flow. That said, what do you suggest trying next for my 'cut out after 15 min' problem ?! Thanks!
Testing the fuel pump while its "cold" is not a means of diagnosing this issue. The fuel pump overheats after 15-30 mins of running the generator and it fails to pump fuel, and then the generator quits. If you let the pump cool (ie, let the generator rest for a bit), the pump may work for a little bit again because its cooled down enough to start pumping fuel again. The outside temperature also contributes to the problem. My fuel pump is failing but it still runs fine if the outside temp is 80F or below. Over 90F, it fails.
@@blakethesnake1555 The only way I know to test the fuel pump is to take it from cold to hot by running the generator. mine is in an enclosed exterior compartment on my toy hauler so it’s easy to get it heated up. Additionally, I think the fuel pump itself gets heated up just from pumping the fuel. Are you experiencing the same symptoms I did with engine shut down?
You can pull a code from a Onan generator by pressing the off button on the generator 3 times Quickly then a momentary pause, followed by one more press of the off button. This will flash a two digit code, just count the flashes. No fuel is usually a code 36. Three flashes followed by 6 flashes. You can look up the codes in your owners manual or online.
I'm going to try this. When mine shut off I thought I saw the red light flashing but I didn't know what I was looking for nor pay attention to how many times it flashed.
I had a similar problem with my Onan 2800. The fuel pump fails from either old gas sitting in it, or from the heat of the generator. After the second failure, I decided to mount the new fuel pump underneath my RV, and bypassed the old location with a hose. I also added a power cutoff switch for the fuel pump in the generator compartment. If I'm not going to run the genny for a while, I turn it on and then cut the power to the fuel pump and let the generator run all the gas that is left until it dies. Then I drain the carb with the screw under the bowl. So far this setup has been working well for more than 3 years.
Your video was great. I followed the instructions and got the fuel pump and filter changed without too much difficulty. Unfortunately, after replacement, the generator was still starved for fuel. I actually could feel the pump working but no fuel was being delivered to the carb. I took it all down again, only to discover a frayed fuel line in a location between my generator cubby and the onan shroud. After replacing this fuel line, problem solved. Lesson: check the fuel lines too. Thanks for your content.
Hi Remi, I did the test as brian see a good flow of gas, but still wont keep running, can you let me know how did you loose the screw that holds the pump? i got out the rest but like you with a lot of work, I don't want to strip that last screw or I WILL BE SCREWED (lol) I have teh T30 bid but still hard to loose).
Followed your advice and changed the fuel pump and filter today, took me exactly one hour. Was a bit of a challenge at first but if I had to do it again it would be a cinch to do. The generator has been starting quickly and works better than ever. Thank you for this video, it really helped me out!
Trailer is a 2008 toy hauler with a fuel station. My Onan 4KY would run 10-20 minutes and starve out of fuel. Drained and flushed fuel tank, needed a new fill neck hose. Still died after running a short time. Was going to take it to a service shop, but saw on your video that it looked pretty easy. Ordered a new fuel pump, fuel filter and air cleaner through Amazon. It was fairly easy to take out and replace, but a bit difficult to get the circuit board and related stuff back in. Note: I have a long run of 30 feet of fuel line from the tank to the generator and needed to put a manual pump on the line to get fuel up to the new pump as I replaced a good part of the fuel line as well and the electric pump could not draw the fuel through the long empty line.. Also the circuit breaker on the generator itself popped and I was getting no juice after I got it running. Remembered seeing another RU-vid piece about the breaker on the side on the unit and reset it to success. Lastly you do not need to crank the motor to check the fuel pump. Just press and hold the PRIME function on the start switch and the fuel pump will run if okay, or not if bad.
Great video, I have long suffered the same problem with my Onan Marquis 5500 and had tried this same test but ruled out the fuel pump because there was a steady stream of fuel. However, I just came to the conclusion last night that it is in fact an intermittent fuel pump. An even simpler and more definitive test that I used...Run the generator until it dies, place a container under the carb and crack the float bowl drain screw (has a spring on it, located just below the altitude compensator knob on the float bowl). If you get just a drip of fuel and then nothing, you have a fuel supply issue....likely your fuel pump. If you get more than a drip (about a cup) of fuel out, it's probably not your fuel pump. If the float bowl was dry, leaving the drain screw open, hold the stop button down > 3 secs (prime), if the pump is working and there are no obstructions you would normally get fuel running out the float bowl drain but if your float bowl was dry in the previous step, you will likely get nothing demonstrating that your pump is either not working or not getting fuel. Wait 10 minutes (just as you found your gen would restart after 5-10 min of down time) then with the float bowl drain still open, hold down the stop button again > 3 secs (prime) to operate the fuel pump. You will likely hear the pump chugging and you should also get fuel running out of the float bowl drain. This will rule out a tank, line, or filter issue. To rule out a possible controller issue, in that 5-10 minute period when the pump isn't working, disconnect the pump wires and verify that the wires to the fuel pump have power. While holding the stop button (prime) check for voltage at the connector on the white wire (on the controller side) then test for resistance to ground on the black wire (again on the controller side), it should be near zero. If all is good there, then you know the pump is getting power and hopefully feel confident about dropping CDN$160 on a new pump. Don't forget to close the drain screw.
Are you available to elaborate more on this? Please DM me or contact me in some fashion. Would be glad to compensate you. I am trying to confirm my new fuel pump is not bad. Brand new Onan pump...but now not getting any fuel.
I know that this is an old video, but wanted to add a couple of suggestions to your excellent video. Removing the fuel line and running the pump is the definitive test, but as a preliminary test if you don’t want gas to be pumped into a bucket, you can just hold the button in the down direction and listening for the clicking of the pump as it primes. When it is pumping it clicks. When it doesn’t click it isn’t pumping. If it isn’t clicking then you can remove the fuel line to look for gas. One other tip for those living in California is that a replacement fuel pump cannot be shipped into California. The crazy reason seems to be that it contains chromium. On the other hand this can be purchased at a lower cost on eBay and with free shipping.
Thank you for your advise but, you decided to change the fuel pump and fuel filter while it is in good condition. I have the same issue and i test the fuel pump the fuel runinig smoothly. What you think the problem?
The fuel pump overheats after 15-30 mins of running the generator and it fails to pump fuel, and then the generator quits. If you let the pump cool (ie, let the generator rest for a bit), the pump may work for a little bit again because its cooled down enough to start pumping fuel again. Testing the fuel pump while its "cold" is not a means of diagnosing this issue. The outside temperature also contributes to the problem. My fuel pump is failing but it still runs fine if the outside temp is 80F or below. Over 90F, it fails.
Ok so how did you no you had to change fuel pump because i disconnected the fuel line and it was blowen just fine but its running for 5 to 10 min and the other day stayed running about 45 min then whats the problem i change the carb 200 i change the oil 40 bucks i need a honda generator solve all t hat crap onan suck
Thanks David Alexander for the great tip! I totally forgot that the stop button also doubles as a prime button. That is certainly a better way to do it.
Mine also. Not sure where it can possibly come from unless I replace the entire line from the tank to the filter. The pump starts clicking (I assume this means it's got air in there)
Brian, Thank you again for your wonderful guidance. Not sure if I shared it, but I was having issues with my gen set and had forgotten the filter maintenance intervals which likely caused issues with my pump. I first replaced the filter and same symptoms persisted. So I had to endeavor to replace the fuel pump as you did. What do you know, it works like new now. Your video was a big part of my courage to take on the task.
Hi your Video's are very helpful but we have a Onan 750 Generator in our RV and we replaced the Fuel filter, fuel pump and the air filter. But the problem has not changed it runs 8-10 mins and shuts off will start right back up but then only runs 2 mins or less and get shorter and shorter. I did the code test and I think it gave a 33 something about the coolant do you have any suggestions and is there a shut off relay
Ginny Brewington I wish I could help Ginny. I'm not an Onan tech. I've only messed around with my own generator. Perhaps there are others on this thread that can offer guidance.
I am confused. You said your generator ran for about 20 min and then shut off. so.. would you do this test after it shut down? It was obviously getting gas for the 1st 20 min. plz help... I have the same symptoms. thank you
+NW Lady Yes. Do the test after it shuts down. The test will tell you if it shut down because the gas stopped flowing from the pump. The pump may work at first and then stop.
Awesome channel. It's cool that you've learned to fix so many things on your own. We are planning to travel the US for a year and I'm sure your tips are going to come in handy! Or we'll find you on the road and have you fix ours ;) haha
My Onan RV QG 5500 LP runs for about 20 to 25 minutes then backfires and shuts down. I only have 113 hours on it and was told it could be the ignition coils anyone know if this is could indeed be the issue ?
I just subscribed... I have a 7500 watt generator on my semi for my big sleeper... I been having troubles and im pretty sure my fuel pump isn't working good. I unhooked fuel line and it barely trickled... I even ran a line from pump to tanl to make sure it wasn't a supply line problem
@@RVwithTito i just got done doing fuel pump. I found a universal pump... And she wont start. I loosened priming screw, and tried to bleed system... She just wont fire
I hope you can help me. Me and my wife would like to start dry camping. We need to buy a generator. I narrowed it down to 2. WEN 3800 (56380i) and CUMMINS ONAN P4500i. Which one of these would you recommend?
Thanks. I'm not sure what is wrong with my Onan 4000. I do a monthly 30 minute run. The generator seems to run as long as the Starter button is pressed. I have changed the air filter and spark plug. Made sure there is a spark when cranking. Took it out and held it close to metal and had a good spark. Took the fuel line off the carb and have good fuel flow. Yes the 75 gallon tank is full. I run seafoam in my fuel to counteract the dreaded Gasohol. I do not have many hours on the generator. I found you in thinking I may need to replace the filter and or fuel pump. Today I held the starter while running to get the error code 32. LOW CRANKING SPEED SENSE - FAULT CODE 32.... A. Vapor lock may occur in high ambient temperatures: operate in ambients at less than 120°F; verify proper installation to prevent air recirculation; correct as necessary. B. Measure steady DC voltage at fuel pump while genset is cranking: repair wiring as necessary. C. Try to start genset on shop fuel supply: verify tank level and fuel line condition in vehicle. D. Verify carburetor altitude setting: readjust as necessary. E. Verify choke operation, setting and linkage damage: readjust, repair or replace as necessary. F. Measure fuel pump pressure/flow: replace fuel filter or pump as necessary. G. Inspect carburetor butterfly for binding: replace carburetor as necessary.
bubbajeph It may not be carb related. It could be a wiring issue or something else. I've heard stories of mice chewing up generator wires. Maybe this will help. I pulled this out of the Onan Service Manual. PROBLEM: Engine starts but stops when switch is released POSSIBLE CAUSES 1. Low Oil Level (Action: Check oil level and add oil if low) 2. Defective low oil level switch (Action: Disconnect low oil level switch and check set operation. Replace if defective) 3. NO field flash voltage due to (a) Open circuit in wiring (Action: Check wiring continuity to the brush block F1-F2, voltage regulator VR1, control assembly A1 and generator B1-B2 and Q-1-Q2 windings. Check connections of P5 and P6 connectors on the generator housing) (b) Brushes not making good contact with slip rings (Action: Check brushes for wear and for contact with the slip rings) (c) Slip ring surface is rough or pitted (Action: Check slip rings) 4. Defective generator, control assembly A1, or voltage regulator VR1 (Action: Perform field voltage test)
THIS IS HOW I FIXED MINE, IN THE CASE OF.... "I CAN'T START MY GENERATOR" It's has been two years since last time it was running, so I started by checking oil level full at gen dipstick (it won't start if low oil because of sensors) then I checked gasoline more than 1\4 tank in the RV (also safety sensors), sparkplug checked for good spark, also checked the manual reset circuit braker ( to be ON) at front motorhome engine compartment for 12v current to the generator to be able to start it, also cleaned the carburetor and even installed new one but same situation, then checked wires and found some has been chewed like gum by rats at the back of starting switch generator panel so I replaced them, at this time the generator started but stay running only by keep pushing the switch on all the time, so then finally I knew it was internal electrical problem from the engine itself, so I took the generator out from my RV to work in my garage, (I did this by myself with some tools and old Mayan tricks ) lol, it's really heavy for one person. I disassemble the unit at my garage and started by removing the cover, then the cooling fan or flywheel unit (it's 2 items in one) until finally I was at the gen rotor and brushes assembly area and this is what I found: one more wire chewed by filthy rats plus the stinky rat nest in the middle of the generator motor coil, I fixed the wire and sanded the commutator copper contacts where the brushes are sitting becouse they were real duty with old urine from the rats, and of course I got rid off the stinky nest, lol!!! Then I assembled everything back together and... bingo it's runing like a champion!!! For this project materials involved was about $60.00 including an aftermarket new carburetor and an harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller (available at any auto parts for $25.00) to pull the aluminum fan out and (flywheel). Just picture this: (Any gasoline engine run smooth if gasoline and DC current aren't interrupted) so following this important principle you'll always find the problem to be fixed. Also if you have a onan microlite 4000 like mine, don't run it for more than a minute without the cover because you'll cook the engine real fast, also keep the eye on the aluminium fan and your fingers after cranking it in case you missing one or two members...just kidding, lol!!! After testing the gen then I did put the air cooling assembly back and the rest of components including the cover, now it's ready to be installed at my RV. Once the gen was installed back at my motorhome I started it to be tested for electric power but not before flipping the electric switch (on) at the gen starting control panel (sometimes hiding under or around the panel) to transfer power to my RV GFCI main outlet and electric panel as well, my motorhome it's equipped with GFCI so I reset it and tested for green led light indicating power is ready at my main breakers panel, so I turned my main breaker (on) along the others ones but no power was present at my breaker main switch (faulty main braker) so I flipped it many times, sometimes you can make it work again, mine did work, lol!!! I'm happy because everything works now including the ref for cold drinks and AC for this crazy summer, lol! Later I'll buy me a new main braker, for now this is a resurrected generator story that needed to be shared. If this can help eaven one person to save time and $$$ it'll make me more happy, thanks for reading!!!
I just saw a post for a guy advocating the addition of another fuel filter on the unit...dont do it heres a few more tips As a generator tech i see people add fuel filters all the time. Not a good idea. It creates more restriction on the vacuum side (before pump) and makes the pump work too hard and overheat windings in pump or blows the diaphram. Just use onans stock filter. Easier to replace that filter than replacing pumps every 100 hrs. Also i recommend the stock oem onan pump. The airtex 11007 is slightly higher psi and while it will work and is available at most auto parts stores and is half the price. Onan has specifically used a low psi pump to prevent the fuel bowl on carb from over pressuring the float valve and having fuel come back out the carb. Many of the cheap ebay and amazon pumps can be 3x as much pressure and this can and will cause a fire. I have yet to see that with an airtex pump and used them quite often when i first started gen repair but we did some testing in class and it was about 4psi for airtex and 2.5 for onan and the leak point of new carbs was 4-6 psi and old carbs was 3-5 so very close to leak point. Just my advice but i have realized oem parts are the only way to go for onans. Even air filters were suprisingly important...oem are fireproof aftermarket are not. A little back flow of fuel on them and poof. Rv burns down. Dont go with cheap parts on a 3000 dollar generator. They have to run exactly right or it ruins expensive parts and can cause fires. Whatever u do ONLY USE ONAN OEM CARBS these knock offs dont work leak fuel everywhere and run the gen at the wrong rpm and mixture ruining your genset. Ive warned you so make your own decision. Happy rving
This was a very good video. I am experiencing nearly the same symtoms you described and I have the same generator. Fires up just fine when it's cold, but I add a load to it like the microwave or AC and it will only run for about 90 seconds and then shut down. Once this happens, it's not as easy to start back up (yes I turn off all loads inside before trying again). You have to prime it to hell to get it to fire, and sometimes it doesn't even fire up. I did your check in the video. Fuel streams out when I start it, and it slowly comes out when I prime it. So, this means the pump and filter are not bad, but something else with the EXACT same shut off. Any other ideas? New oil, and it's full, new air filter and spark plug. I'm baffled here... Thanks.
Oh hey Eric. Hmmm. I'm just wingin it like you. You could try and play with the governor adjustment screw to see if that has any affect. That's what regulates it under load. Normally, you don't have to touch it. Other than that, my research has shown that it's usually the carb that gets mucked up. I think the intake at the bottom of the bowl is what typically gets clogged. Some have cleaned it, many say don't bother and get a new carb. I don't know if that's the problem. My generator isn't working at 100% now either and only puts out around 1300 watts. So no AC. My plan is to attack the carb with some brake cleaner. If that doesn't work, then I'll replace it (about $350 for a new one). I rarely use my gen anyway, but I know you've got to keep Jax cool. I have a PDF copy of the maintenance manual that I'll email you when I get home. There's a troubleshooting section in there that may help.
Buy a length of fuel line and run it from the backside of the pump/filter assembly into a gas can. If the generator runs fine with this setup, you've narrowed the problem down to the fuel line. Another clue that the fuel line has a leak somewhere is that the generator will run better with more fuel in the tank than it will with less than 1/2. Of course, it won't run at all with less than 1/4 by design.
Too much oil overheats, they put in the wrong too short dipstick. It was an Onan bulletin. Put enough oil to just touch the tip of the dipstick and then it should run fine forever in the heat . Be sure to cut out vents on roof units.
Hey Brian, I love watching your video. I have been trying to figure out what you do for a living because you have some mad skills and really nice Snap On tools LOL. - I have a very similar class C as yours. It’s an 04 29V and I think I have tripped the manual breaker. You didn’t happen to have reason to find the one on yours did you? I’m really perplexed and any input would be greatly appreciated. That includes any other viewer who might know. Much appreciated and thanks again for making all your great videos.
So I have a onan 4500 that operates a PTO that operates my boom on my bucket van. It is doing the same thing. Running for a few minutes and dying. What is confusing though is that I have plenty of fuel coming in to the pump, plenty of fuel leaving the pump, plenty of fuel going to the filter and plenty of fuel leaving the filter. When it dies, it won't restart for a few minutes. Almost like it has to cool off. With the amount of fuel leaving the pump, is it still possible for it to be bad?
The safest way to test the fuel pump is to hold it in the "STOP" position. After 10 seconds it sends a signal to start the fuel pump and prime the carburetor. No need to introduce a spark from cranking an engine.
Itf it runs fine for 20 minutes then dies I would change the frickin filter then run it. If it does not die anymore your done and saved yourself $200 on a pump.
I have a 2007 Winnebago with an Onan 4000 Whisper Quiet generator. It will run for about 2 minutes than kill. I checked the error code. It showed 36. I was told by a mechanic that it indicated a bad fuel pump. I saw nothing in the Onan chart for code 36 that indicated a fuel problem. Any suggestions? Thanks, Don
Great tip...also NOT running the generator regularly contributes to the fuel varnishing issue that causes the carburetor to gum up and most people end up changing out the carburetor. I've been told that sea foam is a great additive to use on occasion , and as a preventive step before RV storage. I found this quick video on youtube showing how sea foam helped his surging generator. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2fUR1PRKG64.html
Does the rule of "at least 1/4 tank of gas" apply only to motor homes? My bumper pull toy hauler has an on board Onan 2800 and a 30 gallon tank. I can't find anything that refers to this rule in my situation. What causes the below 1/4 tank cutoff, a sensor in the tank? Thanks for your videos.
Excellent troubleshooting, suggestions, and cautions. Your video definitely gave me some insight into the dying fuel pump problem and led to a relatively simple repair. Saved some money and made Momma happy in the process. Win-win. Guys like you help guys like me look like heroes! Keep up the great work.
Thanks Tito, well done. It amazes me how someone can put a thumbs down on a video like this. It can only be from ill people within the same category. Thanks for your time, effort and information. Well put 👍👍
Brian I have come to the conclusion that Onan generators are junk. In September 2021, I bought a 2022 Entegra Vision and the Onan 5500 would run for about 8 minutes when under a load of 2 a/c. I took it to Cummings in San Leandro Ca, and they replaced the fuel pump. Now once again it's having the same problem and I have an appointment at Cummings again on March 15 2022. I hope they can fix it for good this time.
Great help! Well I found out my Fuel pump is bad, thank you. I'm going to order the pump and filter, I do not see the link you said you shared for the parts on Amazon...?
Looks like the one I got is no longer available. If you click the link in the description then look at the "Similar Items" you'll find a comparable unit. Just make sure the fittings on either end are the same.
@@RVwithTito Thanks, found the whole tune up kit for the cummins 4KY-26100R www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07884TLCK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@RVwithTito I would have liked you show us how to get to the fuel pump in more detail, LOL. There seems to be some hidden screws. I got the solenoid out but that panel underneath not to sure about and even if I get that off seems a long ways to the pump. You didn't have to take the whole generator out?
Thanks used this test after watching video. I'm still getting a crank no start, but at least I know now that its getting fuel and not a fuel pump issue.
Thanks for this. I was changing my fuel pump out , and lost track of where one of the wires went that could have easily gone to either ground or v+ .. was able to see the connection at 8:13 in your video.
Yep, the stop button is a prime button, and the carbs usually go 1st. from lack of use, get gummed up.. Non serviceable. nowadays.. . around 250-300 bucks for one and a pain to install..
Related problem: My sisters class-C ran a long rubber fuel line from top of tank up to the generator fuel pump. Mice had chewed holes in the fuel line back by the tank so generator would start but start sucking air and stall. I found that by hooking up a temporary 1/4 piece of fuel line from fuel pump (under generator) and into a full gas can. Ran flawless so ran a new fuel line back to tank. Thanks for your video.
Tito, my generator stopped running the other day. I watched a really good video on changing out the fuel pump and had my hat all set to do just that. I always watch more than one video on whatever I'm going to repair and stumbled on yours. Went out to my R.V. and sure enough my fuel was take was just below 1/4. Took it out of storage, filled the tank, started the generator. It ran fine. Thank you for saving me the trouble of replacing my perfectly good fuel pump with a new one.
I. Have an Onan Generator in my 2005 Rialta. Model number 3KVC83C. It starts fine, but cuts out in a few seconds. Should I first start with replacing the Fuel Filter? If that doesn’t help, next would you suggest Fuel Pump? I would think that fuel lines are ok, since it starts right up?
Just found out through Cummings that I am getting a code 14. Blink 1 time - then 4 more times. The first 3 blinks when the gen shuts down is an indicator that something is wrong. Here is the strange thing. If I leave the A/C on before starting the generator, it stays running. The second I cut off the A/C unit, it dies. I let it continue to run with the A/C for an hour or so. Did this several times. A/C left on, Onan runs great. Shut off the A/C and dies.... Weird huh? LOL......I will keep y'all posted.
@@RVwithTito It sounds like you have a QG4000 KY. Your carb is clogged. You have to replace it. They can't be rebuilt. The carbs on these gennies a really fussy and will repay you for poor maintenance. You must use a stabilizer in your fuel tank, and you must start and run it under load for 30 minutes with a 10 minute unloaded warm up and a 10 minute unloaded cool down every month. I use Pri-g but any good stabilizer will work. It's not a hard job and the price for aftermarket clone carbs has dropped to about $50. If a 70 y/o with arthritis can do it, so can you. Good Luck.
It's also a good idea to throw in new fuel lines while your in there as they can cause a problem from age. I'm about to tackle installing a new magneto in my Onan 4ky to get it to run longer than 5 minutes.
Make sure that your fuel tank vent is not clogged. After running a vacuum will form in the tank and stop flow. Open the fuel filler cap and pressure will return to the tank. Run a while with the fuel vent clogged and the pump will be unable to pump gas.
