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A Tour of Black Rocks with Johnny Dawes - Gaia, Angel's Share, No Handed climbs and the Hardest E1 

Johnny Dawes
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A tour of the iconic Black Rocks, a personal favourite crag of climbing legend Johnny Dawes. Steeped in character, it's been home to the hardest route in the country on multiple occasions and Johnny's shares the stories of these and the first ascents he's developed there, such as Gaia (E8) and Angel's Share (E9)
Check out Johnny's website www.frictioneering.co.uk
Tor & Edge Climbing Clothing at www.tor-edge.com

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15 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 65   
@HumSlow
@HumSlow Год назад
Quality. Could listen to Johnny chat about Crags and routes for years.
@dominicestebanrice7460
@dominicestebanrice7460 Год назад
That was really worthwhile; Johnny's always been a compelling story teller but he's also apparently a virtuoso improv cragging historian. Brilliant. Thanks. Looking forward to episode 'Burbage South'!
@paulmitchell5349
@paulmitchell5349 Год назад
Me too........
@monkeypeat
@monkeypeat Год назад
Absolutely love this Johnny, great memories! Also, finally a bit of recognition for my pole skills. Ha ha ha ha, I remember you sending me up Velvet Silence as well, saying it was HVS or something and after managing it I looked it up later and nearly wet myself at the grade. Positive sandbagging. LOVE you man!
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
Very groovy indeed Andy x
@stuart7403
@stuart7403 Год назад
I'm only a humble scrambler and normally find climbing videos quite boring because of all the waffling about grades and equipment. However, I have found the three videos you have uploaded so far to be very interesting. I think these videos could well become a very valuable archive of climbing history because you're clearly more than qualified to recount the journey of establishing the routes rather than the usual dull tradition of stating the grade, year of first ascent, and the name of the person who first climbed it first. Thanks Johnny.
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
Really appreciate your support.
@niallgrimes3642
@niallgrimes3642 Год назад
Great Video, thank you. Johnny Dawes is such a great listener.
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
Cheers Grimer
@niallgrimes3642
@niallgrimes3642 Год назад
@@johnnydawesofficial yer golden mate x
@phillewis3108
@phillewis3108 Год назад
I just noticed these videos are all really new. It seems Johnny started putting videos just a few weeks before I thought, “Whatever became of Johnny Dawes”. Keep them coming. This stuff is doubloons: solid gold treasure.
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
Just doing what comes to mind. There is Lot more to come and not just somethings for sale.
@primus7776
@primus7776 Год назад
"Low Gravity Days" I like that. I'm 68, and it resonates!
@WellingtonIronman
@WellingtonIronman 7 месяцев назад
Jonny gives routes the BEST names.
@middle-agedclimber
@middle-agedclimber Год назад
What a treat this short film is. I think it is safe to say there is absolutely no rock comparable to sandstone.
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
Slate in some ways
@chrisedwards2983
@chrisedwards2983 Год назад
Absolutely glorious Johnny. Loved every minute.
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
Thanks Chris
@philipmcdonald5629
@philipmcdonald5629 Год назад
Only just noticed your channel and enjoying it so much. I was listening to mr malcontent yesterday and thinking about climbing. I also need to eat less cashews
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
Quite nice though, aren't they
@RuinInScotland
@RuinInScotland Год назад
Excellent work and great scenery
@richardbradley1532
@richardbradley1532 Год назад
Such a character. Brilliant
@lukeglaister81
@lukeglaister81 Год назад
Class that was. Wish it was longer. 👍
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
Bear that in mind
@lillale78
@lillale78 Год назад
Hi Johnny, just wanted to say how refreshing it is to see your videos... looking forward to the next ones. Nice to see you are keeping well too. Alessandro (from a long time ago in Brighton)
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
Nice one Alessandro
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
Thyroid is dodge but trying to sort it. Rock needs some love
@lillale78
@lillale78 Год назад
If you ever come to the Lake District let me know!
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
@@lillale78 will do.
@aledge6317
@aledge6317 Год назад
Great video thanks 👍
@derekryden6574
@derekryden6574 Год назад
In my 50+ years of climbing I've watched Johnny Dawes morph from a cocky little upstart into an amiable old dude in a tweed jacket - and he's still climbing about ten grades harder than me!
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
I can't disagree with that.
@Skrellington
@Skrellington Год назад
Such a joy seeing this, love the insight from one of the greats.
@andrewgilbertson5356
@andrewgilbertson5356 Год назад
Black Rocks a great spot
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
Playful and uncompromising
@senorblondie
@senorblondie Год назад
Thanks for the tour and beta. 👊🏽 Tim Clifford always blew me away with what he could do. It was nice running in to him again in Squamish years ago. Such a humble crusher... Years ago my buddy John Wainwright told me a story, if I recall correctly, about you blowing out your finger by jumping up and cranking out a one arm on a crimp edge on some rafter in a club in Australia. Any truth to that??
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
Would have remembered that? At the leadmill maybe
@robkennard1867
@robkennard1867 Год назад
Nice to see you making these videos John. I remember you staying in the loft space at the Snowdrop in Lewes(whatever happened to Ruben?), and the whole of the southern sandstone scene being lit up by your exploits for a short while. Loved your other video about comebacks and motivation- its a real struggle isnt it!?
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
I am still in occasional contact with Reuben. They were great times. Its a dreadful shame how life whisks up our social life if we travel and follow our personal needs. I will just treasure the memories and the time on the crags too.
@paulmitchell5349
@paulmitchell5349 Год назад
Nice Rock Umbrella ( chee dale.... ) . I did most of the Gaia moves on top rope in 1979. Fortunately I couldn't manage the move into the groove off the ledge ,in EBs. J D ( and Woodward ) put the grade up on the grit. There is indeed a next level project or 2 at Black Rocks. ,around 7C English.
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
That was a find?
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
It would be a nightmare in EB,'s on lead... Werr
@stonegrit
@stonegrit Год назад
Johnny in his mature age a squire . " a shield bearer or armor bearer of a knight. : a male attendant especially on a great personage. : a man who devotedly attends a lady : gallant." 😊❤️
@lmnts-climbing3723
@lmnts-climbing3723 Год назад
Love this stuff!!
@andycross2192
@andycross2192 Год назад
Ww1w
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
Ta
@chrisharris749
@chrisharris749 Год назад
Absolute style icon!
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
Bless
@rolandjung8297
@rolandjung8297 Год назад
Respect
@thepsyentwist8452
@thepsyentwist8452 Год назад
Out of interest sir do you still have the picture of yourself jumping through your hands atop nelsons column when you and jerry moffat were protesting for the inuit? All links to that seem to be dead
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
It's in my book at least
@MartynThomas1
@MartynThomas1 Год назад
@8:35 "The bears would jump on top of VW Beetles, because it popped the doors, which is really clever, because they'd then be able to eat the people inside".
@ScotchGambino
@ScotchGambino Год назад
Rappel Indian face and tell the tale!
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
Interesting idea
@zoaxanthellae
@zoaxanthellae Год назад
He looks like a wizard pretending to be a muggle
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
Brilliant
@lizarddronedude3617
@lizarddronedude3617 Год назад
It's no wonder. what he has achieved with an analytical amind like this and memory
@julianmcgee5741
@julianmcgee5741 Год назад
Isn't that a huge lateral chip on the slopy mossy boulder? You can see the chisel/screwdriver marks. Who chipped that? Johnny?
@johnnydawesofficial
@johnnydawesofficial Год назад
It's a great question. The story goes it was for an impromptu dwellings rain gathering. There are two holes in the side wall that also suggest that. No idea when it was done
@PadWolden
@PadWolden 7 месяцев назад
I live 2 minutes away
@thepsyentwist8452
@thepsyentwist8452 Год назад
I really wish I hadn't watched that on the tail end of ketamine
@robertwilliamson8711
@robertwilliamson8711 11 месяцев назад
And no one says 'send'.
@roylong4830
@roylong4830 Год назад
Promo sm
@lizarddronedude3617
@lizarddronedude3617 Год назад
Y local drag just10 mins away om my little yam DT125 back, in73gBrie, regan sent me this link big head isherwood and myd ear friend
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