Thanks to everyone for watching my videos in 2022😄 In the next video I will look back at 2022 and give you some insights about what is going on behind the scenes. I will also answer some of your questions; so put some underneath this comment so that I can answer them. 2023 will be quite a challenging year for me. I will turn 30 years old, the channel will turn 10 years old and I will be finally moving into my own house. There will be other personal challenges but I will keep them to myself😉 I look forward to the video production though because I still got tons of ideas and there are still lots of AliExpress products left to test😂 With that being said, I wish you all happy holidays. Enjoy a break, like I do right now and as always Stay Creative😁 I will see you all next year!
10:16 The TP4056 probably creates this noise because its battery terminal is not bypassed with a 10uF capacitor, as is recommended in the TP4056 datasheet. Should be an easy fix to get rid of this noise.
Came here to say the same. Ask me how I know… A tiny load resistor helped my project as well, though whether this would be useful likely depends on the ESR of the 10uF.
Love this idea of getting diy project from others and rating them. You should consider doing a mini series on them. I guess there are many people interested in showing you and others their interesting projects.
I agree, this would be perfect for projects that are put up on sites like Crowdsupply and the like. Often, you'll see such projects featured on Hackaday etc. but more often that not, they just appear in the form of an announcement (or even "press release"), but without much further detail, much less an in-depth review. It's also quite easy to miss those Hackaday posts, unless you visit the website regularly. So having semi-frequent video reviews of interesting designs that show up there would definitely be something that I'd be interested in following!
A simple yet effective tip for SMD reflowing is to use an old glass-ceramic cooktop. Set it to about medium heat, place the PCB on and watch the solder flow. Its how I do all my PCB projects at my dorm where I cant really use a soldering iron, due to smoke detectors, but I can use the kitchen XD. Works a treat, if you are careful with heating.
You are always making excellent videos,thank you sir. I'm 20 now and actually I begin to watch your videos from my elementary school time,though I didn't understand many of the English words at that time,I enjoy watching them.杜候君 from Hainan Island.
It would be interesting if this could start a huge project. This is the base device and depending on what you want to monitor, you attach optional boards. It would be pretty sweet for this to monitor USB powered, 12V, 24V, 48V, and mains powered devices. And any other commonly used voltages that i'm not aware of.
I made a similar comment above. But my idea might be a bit more involved 😁 There's a wonderful open-source SMU design that's been recently documented and released on eevblog and on RU-vid by djErickson. Obviously a source measuring unit build would be a bit complex....but with the boards and parts all available, and the documentation so well done... He could definitely do it and make a video series on it. just be like assembling a complex kit... It's one of the only things I've never really seen many people tackle a DIY affordable option. A good and somewhat affordable source measure unit would really be a lifesaver to a lot of techs and Labs who can't afford the $5009-$10,000 asking price for the entry level units.
The ESP32-C3 comes in different packages just like every other ESP, but it looks like the design you got called for the MINI. The WROOM exists as well, which is what I use, and it has a slightly larger footprint but has easy-to-solder pins just like all the other ones. Also, you forgot to mention one of the coolest parts of the ESP32-C3, it runs RISC-V cores instead of Xtensa cores, meaning compiler support is _way_ more plentiful compared to before
@@cooperised Important to note that some OS's require specific hardware features asside from the CPU. Linux, for example, requires certain memory controller hardware to be present.
I definitely recommend switching from the Arduino IDE to Visual Studio Code + PlatformIO. Also, the ESP boards can easily do OTA updates too, so you can do wireless deployments from your IDE to the board.
As much fun as receiving parts from LCSC is, I'm 100% sold on JLCPCB's SMT assembly service. It's so cheap with their coupons and saves so much time when you get your boards. I love it so much.
Pretty cool! I imagine there are probably esp32-c3 modules that have castellated pads instead of that no-lead style. Note that the C3 had limited USB only for programming: is not like the S2 or S3 where you can do mass storage or hid.
@@sanjikaneki6226 Yes, if you boot from the internal ROM they show up as a serial port on the PC and can be programmed very easily. Beware that there are also other differences compared to the "old" dual-core LX6 ESP32: for example, the S2 has a single LX7 core and no bluetooth, while the S3 has a dual core LX7 with bluetooth, but no DAC.
you can also reflow solder by putting the whole thing into an oven in a hardware factory where i worked for a while that was standard practice (although those ovens were of course purpose built for that)
You REALLY need to build you a cheap reflow oven! Seriously...all those SMD builds, it's almost imperative for you to have one...hand soldering with a reflow gun can damage sensitive components pretty quickly...a reflow is much more controllable Find some of the controller boards online and find a cheapo IR toaster oven...and viola! Keep em coming!!!!
@@greatscottlab With parts like the ESP32-C3, the oven will probably work a lot better. (Though a hotplate will likely also be better than hot air from the top.) I've personally avoided the IR ovens, but I have a Controleo3-based converted toaster oven and it works pretty well.
Hand solering and homereflowing the USB C connector can cause issues. Could have been the ESP32 was fine, but the data pins were not soldered properly.
For those who want to build this project and can't upload: I have assembled the project and i can't upload as Great Scott. The problem is when you first time upload, you MUST pull gpio9 (not gpio0) to ground. Which is connected to SELECT button on the board. Hold down it while connecting and try to upload. İf it fails again there is RX and TX pins on the board which are DC and RES pins of the LCD. You can also upload with FTDİ adapter. After the first upload (usb or ftdi doesn't matter) you can now upload anyway you want. Hope this comment helps someone
An efficiency mode is a great idea for a multi-channel power monitor,, I hope someone adds this feature to the firmware, although its not hard to calculate from the numbers already given. Another good reason for multi channels is to monitor multiple power rails, as many devices have these days, or the power being used by different parts of a circuit when prototyping..
I usually criticize Scott by sounding a bit arrogant in his videos about other people. But I must tip my hat about this revision. Anyway I got my bit of arrogance, since I'm watching his videos since the beginning, before I even considered RU-vid as something, so it's cool to watch a video like this.
would be great to implement a discrete mosfet power path management for powering only by usb port. Otherwise a different lipo charging ic with power path could be utilized
Special thanks to your viewer for making a Great upgrade, and thanks for making the video as well... I do find it a little ironic that you gave the improved version of your own project just an 8/10. So, I have to wonder, on hindsight, does that mean you only rated your own old project like a 6 or 7/10? (Which I kind of find a little humorous). So, I have to say, it looks really good, and I agree with the idea to improve the code to add "Efficiency"... Good stuff.
I wish microcontroller boards were made like RAM DIMM modules - with standardized edge connector easy to slide into the connector socket, easy to solder wires to bare PCB board, easy to upgrade/swap.
When using a hot plate and/or hot air, I recommend putting some thermal vias in the pads under ICs to help with heat flow. Via-in-pad comes with its own issues, such as the need to find a balance between needing a bit more solder paste while not bridging, but it’s often the _least bad thing_. Shrinking the pads* under the ESP32 can also help reduce bridging, which I suspect may have been the root cause of the board failure in this video. Just a guess. * Or if you want to get fancy, shrink only the stencil (paste layer).
@@nimoy007 I RU-vid ate my earlier reply. In any case, if you search for “optimize solder paste opening”, you’ll see some good examples of how to better control the spread of paste on larger pads. Reducing paste for large pads is a common recommendation from chip manufacturers.
@@a1nelson Actually, nevermind, you're right. That totally makes sense on second thought, because you're just trying to prevent large quantities on the pad, not keep it from spreading. Also, I know the personal pain of soldering QFP ICs and cooking them. Then, you've got the opposite issue for SMDs connected to large ground planes, where thermal breaking makes a huge difference for reducing the heatsinking.
@@nimoy007 It's a fun discussion. I used to believe that thermal reliefs on pads connected to pwr/gnd planes were useless for doing anything but adding resistance. Then, I wondered why some simple caps or resistors were so hard to solder. Ya live, ya face-palm ya learn, haha. QFNs - I always order extra because I know myself and I know that I'm _gonna_ goof at least one up along the way.
Tanks for your original project, I made 4 original power meter for my project, I am testing liion battery charging methods, and loggers ar essential part of my eksperiment.
I subscribed to this channel half a decade ago! GreatScott and ElectroBOOM are the best in electronics, Hey GreatScott! (well I don't know your name) what oscilloscope would you prefer to me ( and I mean a budget friendly one). And thank you for your Great(Scott) videos.
4:20 Wasn't something like that a problem with the original Raspberry Pi 4 and required a revision to be properly USB-C compliant? AFAIK they had to use two different resistors to make it work properly.
Hey I remember your version of a Fireworks ignitor. I built a similar one at the same time. At the time I am 3 version further and it is much more advanced now (addition safety features in hw & sw, higher ignition voltage, larger range and 433 Bandwidth, resistor measurement,...). It seams like I can finish the basic version till this year's Silvester to test it out.
WATCH these SMD resistor cuttings from rolls. Just had an Alie assortment that had clearly a print of 103 on them, but the were all 51 Ohm. I placed this message yesterday under this video, this morning it was gone. I will try again.
Is that heater the sort of thing you would use for smd components on say a motherboard PCB so for example capacitors didn't pop as they would if you used a hot air station? Do you have a link to it?
Great stuff. I'm not a beginner but my fingers are not happy handling small things without moving. If there was a vendor who would do final fit and finish and solder assembly... that would be great. Until then, I'll enjoy watch your work remotely.
Correction It is a ESP32-C3- MINI the non MINI uses normal castelations , i think he went with it because it is smaller and a bit cheaper , and i made the same mistake and that is why i know BTW what sort of paste and flux do you use?
This is just amazing. I'm happy to see how you took another persons work, broke everything down and explained stuff from scratch. As a fellow diy electronics content creator, i believe you did very well with the new board. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year in advance Mr. Scott.
I find it so strange that I just happened to be planning a power data logger a month ago! This has happened more than once, it's strange how the projects sync up
Raspberry PI 4B version 1.1 had set the two 5k1 resistors incorrectly. They simply shorted both CC lines and connected them to one 5k1. In version 1.3 there are then two separate resistors for both CC lines.
I rebuild your Liion Battery Capacity tester to test my 24/48V solar batterys, but hooking it up to a lab bench power supply and supplying it with >20V "battery voltage" it starts bugging around creating voltage peaks of 90 to 300+ Vdc over the drain-source of the mosfet
When using hot air to solder smd components flux should is your best friend more flux better 😅, but not too much, the flux should be free flowing , i see in your video not enough flux that is why solder does not want to stick in turn longer heating time, you have to be more generous of using flux hehe😉,
great video thanks ! and can i ask if you ever try to unlock laptop battery BMS board ? i cant find any datasheet or any useful video to just show they way to unlock laptop battery BMS board to i can use them on my project .(( AND its not just short + to + output or - to - output)) ! cus they all different board on different laptop but HOW we can knew what BMS board use what kind of switch ?! believe me i search all of internet and nobody make a true and useful video about this . i really thankful for your help
3:04 currently working on a heltec wireless stick lite. @greatscott is there any Video to this esp32 Basedow LoRa device that I missed or are you planning a New one? It's an interesting topic especially a point2point range test end LoRaWan would interest me very much. Grüße aus Wien
Hey, out of interest, why didn't you use jlcpcbs assembly service, I'm pretty sure they have most of those core components including the esp32-c3-mini-1 module. I've been using their service since it's release and I've never been disappointed
fwiw, the idea of scoring viewer submitted projects rubs me the wrong way. I like that you’re providing actionable feedback on the design but the number you offer at the end isn’t informative and could be considered disrespectful.
Hello GreatScott!, what do you think to use an Atmega32u4 instead of an Atmega328p? Would be the characteristics almost the same or would it be a big difference?
