It’s a shame just seeing these old farms just falling apart after the owners have passed on, knowing the years of hard labor it took to build the farm up! I’d love to do what you do and rescue these old machines instead of watching them going to the scrapyard for destruction! I like these rescue videos Dave, the first time I saw you was on Andrew Caramata’s channel when he was taking the old house down and putting everything in your dump bin! That was a good video Dave!
WOW what a great find. As long as take the usual precautions everything works out. Look forward to watch the rebuild or whatever you do with it...good luck
Watching your family with the horses makes me wish that I had continued riding and encouraging my children to ride. My daughter had a couple of lessons when she was very young, but lost interest very quickly. Wishing you continued success on the farm in the coming year.
Most don't realize, if they pull with their tow ball, it can quickly turn into a Canonball if it snaps off under pressure, & many cases of death have come from doing exactly what you did. For many years I too did it this way, till I was made aware of those dangers. We've been lucky to this point!
Restored to operation, that’ll be a fine tractor! I grew up before hydrostatic transmissions and computer chips were in tractors, and love seeing the old iron get saved. I rebuilt a 1950 Ford 8n a few years back, myself. Save that old John Deere, she deserves better than the scrapper or just being yard art.
@@Dumpster_Dave thats why for a novice , they never got stolen , easy and great after you get used to them , did 1000's of hours on Dads 3010-4020's :) ...good tractor well ahead of its time :)
My Uncle bought a brand new 3010 diesel about 1962 to replace his FARMALL 400. HE sent the 3010 back to the dealer THREE TIMES to be turned-up, finally set at 70 hp to run with the 400 while plowing. Dad bought a slightly used 4010-D in December 1968 at an auction. Supposedly it had already been over-hauled with the 4020 engine kit, but plowing with 4-14's and a Midwest plow harrow it burned 4 or 5 quarts of engine oil per tank of fuel. Dad used to run me out 2-3 quarts in the middle of the morning or afternoon with a can of soda, We'd do a "running pit stop", dump 2 quarts of oil in the idling engine then go back to work. On lighter loads like pulling our 12 ft disk or cultivating it would run for a day or two without burning oil. That 4010 was a constant Money Pit. Our's was the only 4010 around, lots of 4020's both gas & Diesels, and a few 3020's too. Dad was actually looking for a 706 or 806 diesel, but he had next to the last bid the week before buying the 4010 on a nice really clean 930 Case diesel, but let it go. Dad bought the Deere #400 frt mount 4 row wide cultivator for the 4010 at the same auction as the tractor. Dad could have bought a brand new 806 diesel for what he spent on that 4010, I barely made it the 20 miles home the frt tires were wearing so fast due to worn-out tiered, rear tires, factory installed 15.5x38's were O-K, our existing IH cultivator could have mounted on an 806. When we got done fixing up all the little things on the 4010 and using it I'd have to walk home at least once a week from whatever I was doing. Tiered ends falling apart, or rear draft control seals on draft bar leaking the last 7-8 quarts of transmission/rearend oil out on the ground in the middle of corn planting, blew the head gasket fall plowing just before lunch one Saturday. Spent the afternoon chasing parts. And, to put an end to the "Rusty Chinese rear rim", all frt & rear ag tractor rims are stamped with the name and Manufacturer's part number for that rim or wheel. That rusty rim is either a French & Hecht made in Davenport, Iowa, or an Electric Wheel made in Quincy, I'll. Slim chance it might be a Motor Wheel rim rolled in Mendota, Ill. French & Hecht was owned by Kelsey-Hayes so may be stamped K-H, and Electric Wheel was owned by Firestone back then. I thought my Dad was the last person alive that didn't know how to shift a Deere Synchro-Range but evidently not. Unfortunately they only shift well for a short time, Dave should have sprayed a can of WD-40 or maybe just dumped a quart of ATF on the shift drums. Not 100% positive about a 3010 diesel, but the two 6-volt battery 4020's started with the side console tractors.
Cool, yeah the gear shift definitely a little confusing when it’s not labeled but I figured it out after, I’m going to be working on the tractor soon just trying to get some stuff together for it.
My girlfriends dad owns one of the neighboring farms. I drive by this farm every time I go to work for him. I was wondering where this tractor ended up, but I’m glad to see it’s gone to a good home!
I married one of the girls that lived on that farm from the early sixties until we married in 1975. I drove that tractor many times as we were doing the hay. 😊
Good for you on rescuing the tractor, maybe you've tried to start it by now, but if not it might be worth taking the injectors out and putting oil in the cylinders. Because of it sitting so long things could be dried out! Voice unfortunately of experience here, got a white tractor going after it sat along time, well the engine is out of it now waiting to be rebuilt! I am the second owner of a 3010, its been souped up a bit with bigger pistons and a turbo. Will still put in a good days work! Looks like you're in New York, we are near Ithaca, good luck with the tractor!
I'm about 7 months late watching this young man steering that old 3010 in low reverse gear (1) with the clutch in and saying to myself, "I hope he does let the clutch out and give the truck driver whiplash. He could have easily bought a manual online and asked someone to help him that knew how the tractor operates. I'm sure this was a learning experience for him, especially since the exhaust pipe cover and diesel cap were missing.
Just so you know their is a tow position in the shift pattern. If you tow it not in that position you will ruin the top shaft in the trans. Don’t have to tow it very far to do it either. I have split many that we not towed correctly.
@@Dumpster_Dave : The "neutral" TOW position is down by 7th gear. Look at the shift pattern decal next to the gear shift lever quadrant. "Park" is all the way forward.
Wow I don't comment on stuff often but you are a real gem dude. Where did you learn to rig stuff to unload and load lmfao I literally shook my head the whole time waiting for something to go terribly wrong!
Just saw your video today 6/19/23. That's a great save and along with the correct loader and equipment from the same time period! Tractor looks to be in very good shape for it's age. I restored a gas 3010 about 10-15 years ago and enjoyed it very much. Quite the gas hog though. Have since sold it to another small farm. I also knew the owner and family who farmed this land and am friends with the oldest daughter. Very nice, hard working people. If I knew it was there years ago, I would have picked it up in a minute, no questions asked. Built with quality and relatively easy to get parts. But parts were expensive. How are you making out with the restoration? I'm a local guy and grew up around JD tractors and equipment, so please keep me informed as to the progress. Thanks, Pete.
The hydraulic hoses are so long because they ran to the two rear outlets. The two levers to the left of the steering wheel on the dash ran them. Great find
The wheel is loaded.(calcium) That's why it is rusting out. Nothing on there is Chinese. Those were built from 1960 to 63. Some were 24v, or 12v. You can go online and get specs. That loader is rare. Most were scrapped when newer styles came around
I think from what I have seen other loaders just like that one ...they do dump it's just that it's manual dump,that's what that lever is for. I'm not sure if you knew that of not... Awesome save on that tractor and all of the implements 👍👍👍🇨🇦🇺🇲
You can get engine rebuild kit under 800 it comes with sleeves, you'll pull them no matter what. Will have rebuild and calibrate diesel pump no big deal but they will lie and tell you it's major job. You have to have flow meter to set fuel flow in cly.
I cant tell you how many hours i spent on this exact tractor. My family ran this farm for years. Its so sad to see the state its in now. It used to be so beautiful. To bad you didn't get the side mower that came with it. When my grandfather bought it and it came to the farm it had the front loader and a side sickle bar mower that attached to the belly. It was stored in the round barn right next to where you took the tractor. Its probably long gone. We also never parked it outside. It was always in the big barn, or stored in a garage that has since fallen down.
@@Dumpster_Dave nice!! We actually bought this tractor at an auction. The sticker from the dealer was where we had some work done to it. The transmission was rebuilt in the early 2000s I think. After I saw your video I pulled out my home videos I took in July 2002, and fell into a memory hole. I have video of me raking and baling with it. It looked much different then.
Probably start up ...looks to be in good shape..... spray it down multiple times with wd-40 or crc or diesel fuel ..... make it easier to work on.....good luck with great find ....
Hey Dave, seems like you would start bye spraying penetrating oil on everything that’s supposed to move or turn like the key switch and gear shifter and throttles! You can always download the manual from google! I’ve done it many times!
I worked using a 30-10 for years. The tractor is still on the ranch and is operational. I swear there was a neutral position in the areas between 5th and 7th gear. I know some of the time you were trying to pull, it was in 3rd reverse, and it looked like some of the time, it was in first. Hope you get it running. They are great tractors.
@@Dumpster_Dave The one I worked with was purchased new by my Dad and Uncle at around the same time. Has same transmission and everything. I hauled a lot of hay with that tractor via a farmhand loader that picked up 8 pack bales. The motor was rebuilt in the early 90’s and it still runs to this day.
Detroit be careful with the cap on that engine oil filter ,it has an o-ring on it and if I remember right not getting it lined up properly can crack one of the ears off when you put it back and tighten the nuts. Be very careful to not over torque them
What are you trying to do with the skid loader? If somebody drive it PB blaster on the linkage working back-and-forth is skid loader to get it in move. Your linkage is froze. Up ship linkage.
You literally have it in park. You need to keep the shift lever to the left and pull it back out of the park position. Owned a 3010 for 12 years, although it is a gasser. Good tractors, but they have some weaknesses that need to be addressed. Also, like most old tractors that use a lot of hydraulics to make them operate, they leak 😳 😬 a lot and tend to piss you 😉 off as you fix one leak and then another appears 🤔 just because it can. 😉 And yeah, large skidloaders that don't have tracks are completely useless in greasy mud. That loader is in really 😳 nice 👌 shape. The lever on top is for dumping the bucket, but your right, it would be nicer with a ram. Congratulations on your new toy my friend !! I would be interested in the plow if you wanted to sell it 😉!! Stay safe!😊
Hi Dave, Mate it's 1961 vintage. Do it up and rebuild. A new coat of paint in original colours. If it takes 12 months or more so what. Going to look shit hot when finished. And keep it. Best wishes Chris (from Aust)
Mi padre tuvo un 2010 muy bueno y práctico rendidor lo único malo era para prenderlo por no tener precalentado un buen tractor sin duda Ortiz Venezuela Yo reconstruyó tractores en mi país de todas las marcas Oliver Ford Hunter nacional case Leilan David Bron y otros nuestra pasión los tractores son máquinas para la vida gracias a Dios y a ellos el mundo está mejor alimentado gracias hermanos los quiero mucho
You can make the Loader ,Dump just Get and old plow valve, And add a Piston, Worked great for Me, But I also changed the Big Pistons for down Pressure, Bought them Used cheap.Take the Loader.
There's a drain under the fuel tank u can open it up to let the water out cus there no fuel cap I got a 4020 running it sat for 10+ years John Deere still makes the fuel filter s
Oh, and put a can or a bucket over that exhaust stack, if it's gonna sit outside! That poor engine is likely full of rust, if it sat outside uncovered for any significant length of time.
That actually does dump. It’s a mechanically dump. There’s a lever that pull so you can dump that bucket some of the old style machinery had that back in the day to where it was mechanically dumb
Gear shift all of the way down has a roll position that is your neutral you have the tractor in 3rd gear that is the reason you hear the whining sound in the transmission old mechanic you can get the book from John Deere on special order
You need to learn The shift pattern which it says right to the left of the gearshift. Neutral is in the left-hand side and where you had it you had it in reverse. Or first or third.
Probably just as well completely clean the fuel system then rebuild injectors and injection pump My 3010 pump so bad wasn't rebuidable so put a new one on about 4 hours and idling locked up assuming spun a bearing so not done any more wish would of done before the $1000. Dollar pump as long as someone hasn't changed it was 24 volt starter 12 volt lights so should be two 12 volt battery original
Many Chinese tractors from 1961 haven't rusted but a bunch have died like this JD. A JD built today ain't built like they were back then ... now JD has made them computer dependent and they need proprietary JD expensive dealer service.
