I bought this 2003 Suzuki SV-650 sight unseen from a friend who rescued it from the back of a shop after sitting for 10 years! Can we get it to run and ride right? Will i ever get all the rust out of the fuel tank?
For the tank, soak in white vinegar for a couple of days to stabilise the rust. Then rinse thoroughly with clean water and dry it out. Then use Por15 tank sealer. Seems to be the standard method used by bike restorers.
I had the same issue with an old tank. It even had a few holes in the bottom. Took it to a radiator shop in town. They boiled it out and then lined the tank with some kind of resin. No rust, no holes. Worked great! No more issues!
It's amazing what a good carb cleanout will do. About 2 years ago I bought a little Yamaha Vino 125 scooter from a neighbor for dirt cheap because it wasn't running right. I parked it on my back porch and left it sit there until about 3 weeks ago. I pushed it into the garage, put a charger on the battery and pulled off all the body panels to get to the carb, then cleaned it and put it all back together. Splashed in some fresh gas and it fired right up. I've been riding it around town ever since and let me tell you that thing is a blast to ride. It's not nearly as fast as my motorcycle but it's definitely just as fun. Hop on, hit the starter, twist the throttle, and off you go. With the big storage bin under the seat and the little cargo hook in the foot area it even makes a decent grocery getter if you're not getting a lot.
I agree with David, These internet haters need to get a real life and just learn to enjoy the entertainment you are offering them. I find your style relaxing to watch.
That was a score! I got one 2 yrs ago, with 30,000 miles, just to learn more repair skills, 'cause I rebuilt an Echo Chain saw I bought new in 1980 and replaced the main bearings and crankcase seals, so its good for another 40 years. The 1st gen SV had a problem with the Rectifier-Regulator, look for YT vids on that. I raised the seat and retromoded the bodywork, and pretend I'm riding the Norton Commando I had in the Marines. Have fun, stay young!
Hi, if you are running the K&N air filter, you'll need bigger jets in your carbs for it to run properly. However, there's a quick fix if you don't want to re-jet, change out the air filter for a Pipercross air filter, those don't need to be re-jetted. Hope this helps
You got that part right about doing it yourself. Bought a bike with 3000 miles on it from a dealership in NJ, that supposedly had the, coincidentally, 3000 mile service done on it. To get to the point, the bike broke down a third of the way to my 1200 mile destination. BMW, (the corporation) made it right by paying my U-Haul, and hotel bill, but even after the dealership did all the repairs, it still wasn't done right. Ended up with a service manual and a set of new skills.
here in the philippines we use a rust converter fluid. i believe its called mineral spirits there, not sure. we put nuts and bolts inside (or rocks hehe) in the tank, put the fluid in. shake shake shake. let it soak for 30-45mins. shake shake shake again. then drain. rinse with clean fuel. never used sealant though.
There are several good products for sealing a tank, choose one. But, to clean a tank of rust and not seal it to permanently prevent more rust is just asking for trouble. I have a couple pieces of machinery that sat a while with today's gas/ethanol blend in them and the tanks now are leaking. On the motorcycle a couple things need to be considered on a bike with some age. The rubber boots between the carbs and cylinder heads will crack and harden, or an o ring or gasket can leak at the flange, the vacuum petcock diaphragm can develop a leak and you can troubleshoot everything before considering that part. Lastly, vacuum operated carb slides need to have good diaphragm on top too, unless they are the type that just seals with tight tolerances. Any dirt that gets in there past the air filter can cause scoring/scratches on that slide and that might lead to sticking. I worked on a friend's Honda VT700 that had a deteriorated oiled foam air cleaner. The particles of foam got up into the slide area. What a mess.
I'm hoping you get some cash back from the garage that claims to have done the work. I have just put a 2003 SV650 K3 (first year with FI) back on the road after it was off the road for 3 years (and a lack of maint) for the same reason - bought for girlfriend to learn but she didn't take to it . They're a good little tool when they're running well and you did get a bargain with low miles, good tyres, a Yosh and a few extras. Good luck with it, you'll have fun!
When you store the bike fill the tank to the top it prevents the condensation in tank which causes the rust , run it at least weekly and keep it topped up you'll never have an issue after that
My first bike was an SV-650, amazing acceleration for a little bike, still have great memories of it and wouldn't mind picking up a cheap SV-1000, man the twin exhausts on the thousand look good. Another fun video, don't get down about being compared to VGC, I've had more entertainment out of that channel than most of the paid cable content I've watched over the last few years. Keep up the good work 👌
Degrease the tank with hot soapy water then pour in a quart of concrete etching solution and an equal amount of distilled water. Make sure it says that it contains Phosphoric Acid. Swish it around then let it sit. Rotating the tank so you get everything inside coated and soaked. The phosphoric acid will clean out the rust and leave a phosphate coating inside that'll prevent rust. Let it completely dry out for a couple days then pour in some POR-15 tank sealer and let it cure. You'll never have rust problems again
The mistake you made was storing it with a low tank of fuel. That will cause rusting. I always keep my tank full during winter.. It will not rust if it is full. It looks like the carbs need to be balanced and clean. That rust will be in the carbs.
I have a few bikes, I drove one of these before, great going bike, my mate has an Sv1000, Bought it not long ago with only 2000 miles, in Ireland we don't get real long summers so it ain't unusual to get low mile bikes, great videos lad!
I took my Mom to Ireland a couple of years ago. We flew into Dublin and took the train to Galway, where a portion of her (and my) ancestors lived. I love that little city of Galway! The farmer's market on Saturday (or maybe Sunday) was incredible. I didn't want to leave!
@@LifeofLind I used red-kote on a generator gas tank that was starting to rust. Must have been 3 years ago. Still working good. Also add Stabil ethanol and gas stabilizer in gas tanks to prevent ethanol damage to tank and carb. Be sure it says prevents ethanol damage. The regular Stabil doesn't prevent ethanol damage(rust).
A trick for getting rid of rust in fuel tanks is to fill the tank with regular white vinegar and let it sit for 7 days. All the rust will literally melts and the metal will look brand new on the inside!!
@@LifeofLind no worries man, it really works, and if it’s super severe, do it twice.. Once you rinse out the vinegar, use gasoline to rinse out the tank. If you use water it will flash rust immediately. I did this to an older generator fuel tank that I thought was no good, and it ended up looking like new inside after the vinegar treatment 💪🏾👌🏾
I love big bikes but here in the phillipines big bikes are to exspensive.. But my dream big bikes is just honda super four.. The old model is to fine for me.. I wish i had that big bikes.. Ride safe sir.. Viewer here in bulacan Philippines.. God bless
Found your channel a couple days ago, good content man. Gotta say for that fuel tank I've had great luck with CLR and I've tried alot of products on rusty tanks. Just finished putting a bike back on the road myself that I pulled out of a barn where it sat for 17 years and the tank looked how you would imagine. Trick is patience with the CLR and just give it a couple hours a side rolling it around on the bench. Seal it up with POR tank sealer when ur done. Best of luck
wow, so basically you asked the shop to do two things, clean the carbs and clean the tank & they messed up both. Any cleaning of the carbs was totally wasted with that rust in the tank, but hopefully the filter caught most of it. I think I would price a new tank for kicks and giggles... good luck & thx for the video!
It looked like the rear carb needle jumps out of the needle jet when you revved it. Take the round top of the carb off where the CV diaphragm is and make sure the needle is secured in there. Looks like it jumps around and lets too much fuel through
evaporust to clean the tank , wash it first to get it clean of gas and oil , or the evaporust doesnt work well, if you clean it it will be like new. 1st wash it out, find the leaks jbweld them from outside, next evaporust leave the evaporust in for a couple days, turning the tank from side to side and upside down 2- caswell gastank sealer the motorcycle kit its smaller and cheaper than the bigger kit, follow the directions to the letter its a 2 part sealer looks like clear for car paint but its not, its amazing, but you need to rotate the tank continuously until its starts to gel , then it hardens quickly, you need to plug the cap and petcock area, but remove them before it hardens or its a bitch to get out, you might need to drill and chase threads if not. i did a big 4wheeler tank ,and it turned out great
I had a 2001 SV650s new at the time with the same Yoshi system. Loved that bike in its day although the carbs would freeze in winter and run on 1 cylinder! Couldn't wheelie it too long either you'd seize it up...as I found out!
It infuriates me how so many 'bike garages' have no clue what they're doing. I guess it's the same problem everywhere, I'm in England and travel 60 miles to a garage I trust even though I have many that are much closer. General servicing and maintenance I do myself but for bigger things like valve clearances I pay someone I trust and have used for around 8 years.
For tank rust on a metal tank like that, I use Muriatic acid (get it at Lowes or Home Depot). Fill the tank (off the bike) with a 50/50 water MA mix (remove and block off the petcock), and let it soak for about 15-20 minutes. dump the diluted acid into a plastic container as you can reuse it), rinse the tank with water and dry it. It will be back to clean steel at that point and ready to go. Reinstall the petcock, put it back on the bike, fill and leak check and your rust problem will be history. Done this several times. Works like a charm.
Had the same problem with my sv I used por15 to clean and seal the tank, its been in there 5 years still doing a good job. Having a k&n fitted you will need to up the main jet size.
Ok you are not Derrick what so ever. Just act natural and just YOU BE YOU. I faced the same situation years ago. By the way my home is in WV. God bless ya brother and stay safe.👀👀👀
Clean tank with vinegar and baking soda. Let it soak overnight. Clean it out and make sure all the crap is rinsed out. If it gets most of it out and you are going to run it as is spray it with some sort of oil or it will flash rust. There are liquid liners at most bigger brand parts stores. Not sure how good they are though.
get a Can of POR-15 Fuel tank sealer - it will coat all the steel and prevent rust, fill any pinholes that are leaking and of course the seams. before you do that, put a bunch of rocks in the tank and some gasoline or rubbing alcohol or vinegar and shake the shit out of it to scrape off any rusty flakes, then rinse it out with water and dry it thoroughly. Did that to my old katana and then had to clean all 4 carbs - ugh. never had a clogged carb or rust in fuel system again.
I'm returning to finish watching this video but Just so you know, the front tire looks to be put on reverse. The threads will pull water towards the center instead of throwing them away. If you have addressed this then ignore my comment. Not trying to be that guy but on a motorcycle, it is even more important to have the tires in the correct rotation.
I just purchased an 01 Sv650 with new Continental tires already installed. First thing I noticed was exactly what you are saying. According to the directional arrows on the tire they're installed correctly, but I'm not about it. Just like you said, looks like it would channel water to the center of the tire. Be interesting to find out if it's correct or not.
With the K&N filter and Yoshi exhaust, I would upsize the jets on the carbs…I don’t know which jet size to go with but there must be some gurus out there…the bike will run better and should stop backfiring…
That thing is a diamond, probably the nicest one left. Clean the carbs. It sounds like it is already properly jetted for the exhaust and K&N air filter.
fuel tank over winter should be always full, specially metal one. see if u can getva 2nd hand one in same color, could be cheaper than additives at the end.
I believe you need to pay the shop that charged you $450.00 for doing absolutely NOTHING. A visit. I hope you at least get some of your money back. Good luck
Had an SV 650 a good few years back, cracking bike, with the full Yoshi system and K&N filter it will need an increase in main jet size, try going up 1 or 2 sizes should be enough, also you need to check you carb balance, the filter and exhaust will have thrown them out .
Thanks for the info! I had the jet up one when it was rebuilt. just had to take the carp apart and redo a few thing. if i can solve the rust then I should be set
@@LifeofLind quick and dirty way to tell if you got the jetting near enough, put the choke on a small amount, if the bike picks up better it's still too lean, it is worth checking the carb balance, they do become snatchy when it's out, good luck with the rust
You are better off when parking it for the off season time to park it with a full tank a gas, with fuel stabilizer in it, also try to put non ethanol gas in it....leaving it with little gas in it over the winter will make it rust like that.
I see the Camaro ! 8:13 SOOoo funny about Berryman's, Derek and VGG ! You da man, Dustin. 9:05 Why don't you ask Derek if it's ok ! LOL. JUST KIDDING !!!!
5:25----Your jet needle in the vacuum slide is not secured properly inside the slide. Also, it appears that the jet needle and needle jet(emulsion tube nozzle)are worn, causing the erratic running.
I don't understan why people try to tell you're copying Derek. I mean, you have your style, he has his own, you two use similar tools and products for, guess what, similar jobs like quick fixings and revivals. Using the same logic, I use Windows because I want to copy Bill Gates. Dammmn boring people with no life of it's own.
@@LifeofLind Yup that's the point, doing similar jobs leads to do similar actions and use similar tools and products. You have your channel that works your way, and you're doing it well, so keep it up!
Take gas tank off of bike and remove the fuel pump and the gas tank door. Then pour muriatic acid into the tank with big bolts and nuts. Big enough they won’t get caught on anything and not come out. Once you do that pour out the acid and the bolts and pour baking soda into the tank a lot of it and water. Swish it around to neutralize the acid then pour out the water baking soda mix. Then pour tank sealer into there and swish it around and pour out the excess. Wait for tank to seal then reassemble. Rust will be the death of your carburetors, engine, fuel pump, fuel filter, catalytic converter. Pretty much every part of that machines power plant. Make sure you only use ethanol free fuel if you fill up less then once every 2 weeks/month because the ethanol in the fuel will bind to the water and then water and gas don’t mix so the water will separate and start eating away at the sealer and making your tank rust again.
Make sure you remove your fuel pump first as well. I’d check the fuel pump. I believe I may be wrong but I believe the fuel pump and the fuel filter are all built into one assembly on the sv650 but you should be able to bypass the fuel filter and just buy a new fuel pump. Just make sure you clean out all the rust first: don’t touch the fuel pump with any harsh chemicals though. There are seals in the fuel pump that can be easily damaged by strong cleaners.
I've never drained my gas tank for the winter and never had any issues with my bike. I had to let a gas tank sit for 2 weeks in some stuff to get all the rust of out it, because a guy left the tank almost empty for 3 years.
@@LifeofLind yes carb was the shops fault but I was referring to the rust issue. They sell stuff at auto parts stores that works great. evapo-rust is the name of it
You didn't deal with that rust properly it will come back to haunt you, clogging up the Carburetors again, and long term damaging the Valvetrain. Buy a 5 Gallon bucket of Metal Restore or Evapo Rust ( which is nonreactive), remove the Tank and fill it with the Solution and finish topping off the Tank with water if there is still space. let it sit for a couple days and drain. Dry out the Tank quickly, setting it out in direct Sun and/or hair drier or heat gun blowing into the Gas Hole. Tank sealer/epoxies don't prove to be viable long term fixes. They all seem to breakdown over time.
I guess some people’s idea of clean is different than others. How long did the shop have that bike? And…. I’m 65, have a beard, work on stuff, AND have used Berrymans for years… so all you guys are copying me!!! 😂
Personally I'd like to see you start one project and finish it, like the motorhome, than randomly go all over the road working on everything there is to work on. If you do that I'll stick with you as a subscriber, otherwise I'll move on.
Hey Dustin, one of my fellow Brits Mr Edd China had to do a similar job on a 1986 Range Rover ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Iu2TD3OUI3Q.html im not sure if all or even any of the products are available stateside but hey its worth a shot! Loving the attitude :)
