Video demonstrates how to perform a root collar excavation on a small landscape tree. The trunk flare is exposed revealing a below-ground girdling root, which is then removed.
I planted my tree base 2 inches above normal ground level because I was too lazy to dig down any further. lol and my tree is doing great. My laziness helped the tree.
Good info on excess soil fill against the main stem of a tree and damage a girdling root presents. River rock is not an acceptable practice within the tree root zone, especially above the buttress roots. They restrict air movement and and retain moisture in the soil which is a host environment for pathogens to thrive. The buttress roots, root crown, trunk flare each describing the same area, should be left exposed. The long term health of the tree should out weight the aesthetics of the buttress roots being exposed. Good info on excess soil fill against the base and
Wow, the tree looked fine in the beginning, as there were somewhat of a flare, but as he dug deeper, got a better view. My Bloodgood maple hasn't been growing at all, it leafs out every spring, but growth is stunted. Going to dig and see if there is any root gurdling going on. The maple was buried at the correct height, but it has since settled and is now 6" too low.
Using a porous aggregate avoids the problems with river rocks. The ANSI A300 Standard *advises *: Flare Clearing Protocol Scope: Any tree flares that are not completely visible. Objectives: Clear trunk and flare to enable inspection and (if necessary) treatment. Prevent possible damage to the tree from the effects of any material contacting trunk tissue. Increase the tree’s health and safety, using tools such as a rake, fork, shovel, trowel, lopping shears, hand pruners, chisel, brush, water, heat, and air. Steps: Clear around the trunk any foreign material, rocks, coarse woody debris or fresh mulch. **Position the blade of a shovel or a trowel against the trunk, pointing downward. Avoid damaging tree tissue with trowel or shovel. Slide the blade carefully downward until it is met with resistance. Avoid bark damage. Push the handle toward the trunk, moving the blade away from the trunk. Scoop the loose material away from the trunk and set aside.** Set aside fertile soil, fine roots, mycorrhizae, and decomposed mulch. Separate and dispose of any infertile soil and debris. Locate the flare and the largest roots coming off the trunk. Locate and remove any stem-girdling roots that are
Imagine, when people mulch a newly planted nursery tree, roots become "Doubly girdled"! First, instant advantageous root growth throughout mulch or raised soil layer. Then at same time regular production of trees roots become girdled as their positions are set for life within first three years. Owners which I have educated on subject, immediately freak out when "Knocking down mulch layer" after discovering copious amounts of advantageous root growth which they assume is healthy and beneficially needed by tree. So they stop any more removal at that point. Just don't expect same landscapers who mulched tree, to correct situation also, even though they were cause of problem.
I have grass around my trees so it is really hard to dig without cutting the roots. I have looked into to air excavation,but the only place that can do it around here would cost me $1800. Do you have any suggestions?
Connie Wallace Use high pressure water, a broom, hand clippers, and your hands -and spread the process out over a few weeks. I don't recommend using a sharp knife or shovel near structure roots or trunk. A dull "hook" tool is better
I recently planted an Amur Maple in clay soil. Originally I had it to deep, so a week later I duo it back up and put more dirt under it. My biggest issue is I can define a good water plan for this tree. The clay soil doesn’t drain well. Any advice is appreciated
Using manual tools guarantees damage to roots. The tool goes in and when you connect with a root it's too late. Why aren't you using an AirSpade® or an AirKnife® The pneumatic excavation tools design for root diagnostics is how we do this.
Im an interested novice from SouthAfrica and in my short planting "career" I realised that the ground around trees gets lower, because the trees live off it. The lowering level was obvious because we kept sweeping the leaves away and faithfully kept it clean underneath. Which is counter state of whats happening in a forest; the fallen leaves being filling up the soil around it all the time. (Gives recycling a whole new meaning) Consumption is always more than supply because of losses due to gasses and fungi, mosses etc. So the level around any tree should drop naturally. Trees eat ground.
