Ted, I am a homeowner and enjoy learning from your videos. I like knowing a little about how things in my house function, including my AC and furnace. Came downstairs the other day and the AC coil on top of the furnace was leaking water-immediately knew I had a blocked condensate line. Sure enough, clogged with years of junk. Would have never know what to do without your videos. Just a little “DIY” on that one. Thanks!
I like the Ted Cook custom drafting flange; seems like I saw one recently that was gifted to a technician way up North where they talk kind of funny. 😉👍
In another video you showed your "Steve Lav" setup for you pump using a floor flange with magnets. I was thinking about it and realized that Coolpresser tool would would perfectly.
Good job as always. Ted, can you tell me why the drain lines on these systems are always set so close to the foundation? I had my system installed 2 years ago, after the HVAC guys left, I added an extra foot of pvc to the end so it would drain further away from the foundation of my home. Summers in Calif are pretty dang HOT. Lots of water coming out of the drain.
Hi Ted…. What does it take to make that transfer pump fitting end? I know there’s a magnet underneath it to hold it down. But what parts do you need to make the end. Seeing you move that much water makes me want to buy one now. Thanks Ted!! Love your channel!!!!!!!!😁
Excellent repair process thanks to Ted. Not only that but Ted has some decent tools to take care of the problems that arise. The vacuum is a better grade than most HVAC supply stores sell and the Milwaukee transfer pump is a beast of a machine for its purposes. My guess as a DIY is, that elbow made trap wasn't a good idea long term. They should have used a nice sweep trap that is made for the drain system as they will rarely plug up due to the smooth bends/curves. Just like any electrician, when the need to make a 90 degree turn with their grey plastic pipes they need to use a sweep 90 so the wires can make the turn via the fish they use. Same goes for this water although, being condensed water, why is there a large amount of minerals/scale from distilled water? Anyway, this was a great repair due to a poor install and as Ted mentioned, the unit should have been install higher and out of the water damaging overflow pan. I wonder how many days of water that was in their bucket and drip pan?
Any tips on finding a drain pipe? Can see the p trap coming off air handler and it drips into a 2" PVC pipe that goes into the wall and can't find any PVC pipe outside at all. No basement or crawl space under house. House is built on concrete.
Hi.. a couple of day ago my drain clogged. Originally the air vent was before the p trap on the a second vertical fall then horizontal the j trap then out. Maintenance took off the vent. Left j trap. Having vent was wrong before the j trap on the with the second vertical fall. He now installed without. What is wrong? And how I can fix?
My coil pan flooded and got my insulation wet due to insulation blocking the line. Should i take out all insulation that got wet inside the unit which if i dont it could get molded?
Anyone know why there was insulating foam around the P trap? I'm a DIY homeowner and just figuring out this is my issue. My trap was wrapped as well and I just cut it off and through it away. I'm in Florida so no chance of freezing and it certainly wasn't gonna hold any water back.
Ted, I’ve always wanted to ask why don’t you guys drain the auxiliary pan? We run two pipes. We finish the auxiliary in the soffit or even in the garage where it’s obvious that there is water in the pan. I follow that with a float switch that shuts down the AC if the pan fills up. I’ve begun using a safety switch in auxiliary outlet on the coil, to keep water out of the pan. It appears that you always have water to flush with though. I always wonder about that when you do drain clogs.
We use 2 pipes her in CA--the secondary exits above an exterior window--this way the homeowner gets water running on the window and know there is an issue.
I see that alot as well and always wondered the same thing. Why not put an in line float out if the secondary outlet instead of letting the primary pan overflow and fill the return up. Luckily it's an up flow. If it was horizontal like that all the insulation in the air handler would've gotten soaked.
To each his own, but when I find a trap that clogged and that nasty, especially one built with fittings, I just install a new J-trap or P-trap. Why not cut the drain line between the unit and the trap and then connect the hose from your pump so that when you flush the pan it actually flushes all the crud from the trap which is where the clog was. No need leaving a trap like that in the system. That is a clog waiting to happen again. Just my opinion on what works for me every time.
every time I see that vacuum, I still automatically reach for the volume control. watched too many of the past videos where you didn't turn it down on. 🙃
Maybe you just didn't film it, but: 1) did you ever flush the trap? 2) did you remove the cap from the vent? Last shot had you putting the cap ON the vent.
I guess using those sharp 90 degree bend elbows to make a trap is what causes these condensate lines to clog up. If there was a solid trap with a gradual bend this would be less likely to happen.
I agree. That cap is so tight the vacuum cant even get air. Had the cap been removed he would have got air and knew the plug was before the vent tee. Unions great idea. I use hose and clamps.
most units have a fresh air ventilator which brings in outside air. filters get dirty pretty easily and when preventative maintenance is not down. all the microbial growth and dirt that gets stuck to the coil will get mixed with the condensation and all that drains in the drain line and hardens overtime. i see it alot down here in texas
@@ItsOutlaws That's the wrong way to do it. Should have a separate system that has a HRV (heat recovery ventilator), if they're trying to achieve a totally sealed house. Introducing outside air into the return only works when the system is calling, and then can increase positive pressure in the house from the resulting imbalance. Trane and American standard make a unit that's popular around here that has it's own washable filters inside it. Only see these is larger more high end homes though.
I never understood why some use just 90's for traps? I know sometimes space is a commodity but a P, J or R trap is so much easier and clogs less than 90's.
I had a very well respected HVAC company install a new Carrier air handler and coil in my attic. When it rained the next week, water was pouring through the ceiling. When I looked at the unit, I found that the effing dumbass installed the P-trap upside down. The float switch was not connected to anything.
Being the character that I happen to be. If the vacuum didn't clear the clog I would've went upstairs and hit the drain with 150psi of air. Go or blow baby...lol.
@13:00 is exactly why on these kind of systems up in the attic a condensate pump would be a million times better, than a long PVC drain going all the way down thru the house to the ground. Almost every pump has a safety dry contact that can be used to kill the condensing unit if the pump fails. Replacing the pump is many times easier than cutting drains, and all that vacuuming/flushing/snaking etc. I redid a 20 unit 5 building apartment complex with all new furnaces, got rid of the window/wall A/C units, and replaced with central air. All 20 split systems have condensate pumps, no gravity drains except for a short distance to the pump. Eliminates the need for a trap as well. Only one pump failure since 2017. And that was because a water heater busted, and it ruined the pump. A more permanent fix for this particular house would be a condensate pump right where the Milwaukee is at 13:05. Especially if they throw a little mulch over the outlet again, leaves weeds etc. The gravity head plus the approx 20 feet of pump head will keep it self cleared most of the time.
A bigger condensate line works as well. You would never see a plumber use 3/4" for any gravity drain and they would never use tight 90s. When is the lasttime you saw a floor drain clog? Its a problem that no one has put their mind to...
I don’t understand the geometries of this, the lineset exits at grade to the condensers, and then in the crawspace the condensate drain is six feet lower and also exits at grade.
Many air handlers with the exception of a very few like the Trane Hyperion line, the evap coil is under negative pressure. So without the trap, the suction from the blower will suck air in, and not let the water drain out. It gets much worse when you have a system with badly designed or kinked return air ductwork, and when people neglect to change the filter on time, the negative static pressure at that drain outlet can get really high. When I hear a P-trap going 'glug glug glug', 99% of the time the air filter is plugged solid. Customer states I just had the filters changed. The date written on the filter by the last guy says otherwise (3/10/21! And it was July 2022)...
I always kind of wondered the same thing. I'd guess they run dry fairly often, and every one I see is either a bunch of elbows like this or a bent (crushed) length of pipe, and they clog up and cause a bunch of damage.
I don’t know why guys don’t use 2 tees on the trap. Especially when you’ve got the room like that. A clean out and a vent. Very simple. They always use that threaded 90. Installers lol.
Derek, have you ever used the AC EZ tee? Really neat setup that I’m converting my regulars to if they ever have drain trouble. You can put two in a row and really have a handy auxiliary. If you buy the 20 unit case the drain tools are free and they are handy.
