I would highly recommend buying this shifter if anyone is wondering if they should get it. I bought the short shifter along with shifter bushings and had a HUGE DIFFERENCE in feel comparing it to the stock shifter while driving. Every thing about it feels so good, very accurate, smooth, stiff, and you get way faster shifts! It’s worth the money! (:
@@thatcelestial_taco Yes, you need to put back the air duct. Its optional to remove it from the working area so that you had more space around the shifter cables :)
Thanks for reaching out to us about this. Our 9th gen civic short shifter will fit the 2013-2015 Acura ILX, but just be aware that you will not be able to adjust the shifter to the shortest gear throw setting. This is because there is a module under the factory shifter in the ILX that is not present in the 9th gen civic that will contact the cable endlink if the shifter is adjusted to the shortest gear throw position. The shifter will operate fine with all other adjustments, and you should be able to retain the factory shift boot and shift knob with it installed too.
Man I have watched this vid like 10 times and the more i watch ut the more i want to order one. Ok don't laugh I have to sell it to the Boss , my wife 🤣
It definitely improves the driving experience, even when you're tooling around time. That said, nobody's laughing...we all know that if mama ain't happy, ain't nobody happy. haha
Yes, 100%. The only time it creates an issue is if you are trying to run the height at the minimum setting. To do that, you have to use our 1924 shift boot collar instead of the OEM one as the OEM one is too tall. But that only limits reduction of height by about 5mm. You will have no trouble running stock height, slightly below, or at the max setting. :) ~Russ
We supply grease on our shifters so no additional grease is needed. That being said, if the shifter is old and the pivot ball looks dry you can use lithium or silicone grease on it. If you contact us through our website we can also make an order for a packet of the exact purple PAO grease we use on our parts.
It's very much personal preference. We normally suggest starting with the throw, gate-spacing, and height settings halfway in their adjustment range, trying that for a while, then adjusting and seeing what changes you like. With people's experience shifting and body morphology having so much variation, there's always a sweet spot for each person. Halfway in the adjustment range generally feels pretty solid for most, although many people eventually opt for more aggressive settings once they are used to the shifter.
I also bought the springs and I can’t find a video installing it with that too. I will check the pdf manual to see if it says anything. Installing it this weekend🙌🏽🩷
@@aburgostorres Just seeing this. Glad you found it! For anyone else reading this in the future, we have PDF install guides for the majority of our products on our website. The PDF install guides have tons of details in them, so they are a great alternative for products that we haven't posted video install guides for.
If they are getting snagged during install, they are probably not going in totally parallel to the bracket. Make sure the slot in the cable is very well aligned with the bracket before pushing it into the slot in the bracket. I've run into this same exact snag and that worked perfectly for me. Best of luck!
As of this moment, the OEM cables are the best value in terms of feel and durability. We have yet to see an aftermarket cable option that outperforms and outlasts OEM cables. Plus we have found most aftermarket cables add a lot of friction which makes shifting feel stiff and vague. ~Russ @ Acuity
Yup. All Acuity shifters are designed to be compatible with the OEM boot and shift knob. It's just very common for people to appreciate the appearance of the shifter and decide to leave the shift boot off. If you prefer the stealth look of the OEM boot and knob though, it's no problem to go that route.
You'd want to choose a torque-wrench that's sized for your drivers. That said, most torque wrenches that have a small enough torque range for the torques on this part will have a 1/4" drive. Most importantly, choose a torque wrench that has the correct torque range.
How does it perform with the stock cables?? I want one so bad but I’m really afraid about it having so much adjustability lol, my anxiety goes up just thinking about it. How on earth am I going to find the right position with 4 different settings 😵💫😵
We recommend stock cables over any aftermarket options available as they tend to be more robust and reliable than existing aftermarket options. Regarding adjustments, set the height, throw, and gate spacing all to the middle of the adjustment range. The rotation adjustment is only for adjusting shift knob location and is not super significant to feel. Drive the car for a bit, then decide if you'd change the height, gate spacing (how far the shifter moves left/right), gear throw (how far the shifter moves forward/back), and adjust the settings based on what you'd like from the shifter after that test drive period. Shifter settings are a very personal thing, so it's helpful to start in the middle and then go from there.
Bought a 10th gen Si that already had the Acuity installed. Shifting into every gear is incredibly stiff and has a certain resistance to it. What are your recommendations on adjustments? This does not shift smoothly, which makes it a helluva lot more challenging to quickly transition to another gear. If I was racing, the lack of quick shifting would put me at a disadvantage every time.
Hi Josh, it sounds like the adjustments need some tuning to your liking. Consider setting the throw and gate adjustments to the longest throw and widest gate settings, then adjusting the height to the tallest setting. This will give you the lowest effort shifting the shifter is capable of. Also, are you using the stock shifter cables or aftermarket cables?
@@ACUiTYinstruments thank you so much! I'm not sure about the cables as I wanted to reach out to you guys before I started pulling anything apart. What signs should I be looking for relative to proper cable placement? It definitely seems like the last owner didn't spend much time perfecting the setup so I am seriously looking forward to getting it properly dialed in. Thanks again!
We're happy to help identify the type of cables you have, just email our support team with a few pics of them (support@acuityinstruments.com). An easy way to find out if they're stock or aftermarket is to take a look in the engine bay on top of the transmission and inspect the cable ends there. Most aftermarket cables will have their branding on the shifter cable ends. If they're aftermarket, or have aftermarket bushings installed, it may be worth inspecting where they are affixed on top of the transmission to make sure the cables are fully seated into their mounting bracket and that the cable retainer clip for each cable installed correctly too. If a cable retainer clip is installed crooked it can misalign the shift cable and make shifts feel more difficult to engage. With aftermarket cables it's also important to check that they were routed correctly and not twisted or bent in tight angles so they can operate smoothly. Again, we'd be happy to help inspect any pics you can provide us with to assist you further :). To inspect the shifter as well, definitely try disconnecting the end link of each cable from the shifter and then test the shift lever movement back/forth and side to side. If the shifter operates smoothly with no play or binding, then chances are the increased shift effort you're feeling could be remedied with some more experimentation on the adjustment settings. Otherwise if shifting still feels difficult or sloppy in all gears, then the cables might need more inspection and/or replacement.
Yes, all of the Acuity shifters permit use of the shift boot. Some customers just like to remove the boot to show off their shifter. The boot helps to block out road noise and heat coming from the center tunnel though, so removing the boot does increase road noise and heat from the exhaust by a small amount. Keeping the boot also makes sure that no debris gets onto the shifter's main pivot which will help the shifter last longer.
The Acuity 9th Gen Civic shifter, shifter base bushings, and shifter cable bushings work on all manual transmission coupe and sedan 9th Gen Civics. They won't work on a hatchback 9th Gen Civic as the hatchbacks use a totally different shifter.
@@ACUiTYinstruments Thb, I'm still not used to how stiff the throw is on the shifter.. from stock to buddy club and now to the acuity, the shifting throws seem to be stiffer. But then again.. I maxed out my acuity shifter to the shortest throw possible before installing it, and I gotta admit there was some getting used to. But the adjustability on it is INSANE!.. in that sense, it's the "best bang for your buck", I cannot deny that. The throws were soooo short that I couldn't figure out whether I was in 6th gear or reverse.. LOL! But I LOVE! it. So far so good.. I understand now why people are saying that this shifter is the best on the market for our 9th gens.. from what I hear it's even better than the Hybrid racing short shifters. I only wished that JHPusa also included some banners, stickers, and air fresheners, and Tee's from acuity like I've seem others receive in their purchase for one of these buys :\ All i got was a JHPusa sticker.. LOL
5:07 - HELP does anyone know the name of the clip (Gear Change Cable End Link?) here and how I could get a replacement? Recently bought a '14 Civic Si pre-owned and the previous owner lost/broke this clip, and replaced it with a zip tie :(
If you are referring to the metal-wire spring clip that holds the cable to the shifter, I'm afraid that is a part that comes with the shift cables. That said, it is found on MANY hondas, so your odds of locating one at a junk yard are excellent. The same clip is used to secure shift cables manual transmission-equipped cars from the following models: 7th Gen Honda Civic Si, 8th Gen Honda Civic (base model, si & R), 9th Gen Honda Civic (base model, si, & R), 10th gen honda civic (base, si, & R), the 2nd Gen Honda Fit, 3rd Gen Honda Fit, and likely quite a few more. Hope that helps! ~Russ
@@rgareh1 Okay awesome, thanks Russ! After calling around all day I found a Honda Parts dealer who may have something for me , but Plan B will be the junk yard. Thanks again!
If you are referring to the white plastic washer that’s held on with a cotter pin, you can safely, temporarily run the shifter without the washer. The cotter pin is a must though Shoot us an message via the contact-us page on our website and we can assist in getting a replacement. 👍🏻
I think you're referring to the hatchback chassis, like the FK2 type R. Is that correct? If so, unfortunately this will not fit as the shifter in that vehicle is quite different. The good news is we have a shifter for that version of the 9th Gen Civic in design presently. :)
The locking nut on my si (nut under shift knob) for some reason just spins on its own kinda like if was cross threaded or something. Does anyone else have this problem?
Below the threads, there is a thinner portion of the shift lever. It's possible you've run the nut so far down it came off the threads onto the area below the threads that is not threaded. If the last thread was damaged during the process of running the nut down, it may be tricky to get the nut off. Using a small file to repair the last thread so the nut can be unthreaded might do the trick. Worst case, the upper lever on the Acuity shifters is not too pricey and can be purchased separate. If you can't get the nut off and want to go down that path, shoot us a message on our site via the contact us link and one of the customer service guys can assist with that. ~Russ
Rosendo, please reach out to our support email (support@acuityinstruments.com) or the contact us form on our website. If you haven't already, we'd like you to send pictures of the shift knob, upper rod threads, and the binding nut so we can inspect what you're seeing and then we can advise you further on how to get your shift knob secured in place 🙏
Russell Garehan none of those places do installs . I can do it myself I’m just bugging about torque specs ? I wouldn’t want to not tighten something tight enough and have something fail on me while driving. Or over strip something .
Our PDF install guides should have torque specs required for the install. The shifter also has torque specs laser etched near the adjustments so you never have to guess how how tight to torque them down 🤘😎. Install guides can be found at www.acuityinstruments.com/install
Hi Virtuoso7, why don't you shoot us an email via the site for some warranty help. The cable popping out is likely due to the cable not being properly latched in. This is the only thing that would cause that (or if the latch on the cable was broken). The squeak may be our fault. There is a point on the shifter where the purple spring slides against the metal frame plate that needs to be greased. Doing so at that point should remedy your issue. Also, we use class 12.9 hardware in most places, essentially the strongest commercially available metric hardware without getting into rare aerospace stuff. Using poor quality drivers or not using the torque specs can cause issues, and mistakes do happen. At any rate, we are happy to help you if you would like to file a warranty claim, just contact us via the site. Since you have had this shifter nearly a year, please get in touch with us while the warranty is still valid so we have no troubles assisting you without expense to you :) . I would have contacted you via youtube, but your page does not appear to allow it. It's always best to get in touch with us if you ever run into a problem. We are very supportive of our customers. ~Russ
@@For_Cruyff_Sake Unfortunately, RU-vid doesn't let us swap out videos (otherwise we'd post updates often). The point you are looking for is related to the purple spring on the shifter. The spring has an upper leg and a lower leg. The spot you're looking for is on the lower leg. It's right where the lower leg bends and touches the metal frame. It's pretty easy to spot with the shifter in front of you. If you have trouble locating it, shoot us a message on our website asking for a pic of the location and we can respond with the pic. :)