Adam Ondra #76: Bolting a New Route / Potential 9c Project

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ENGLISH SUBTITLES AVAILABLE IN THE VIDEO SETTINGS
ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA
This episode is about finally deciding to bolt a line that I have been looking at for so many years, but always thinking it was probably impossible. How the process of bolting went you can find out in the next episode. The line turned out to be probably possible, and surely pretty hard!
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Credits:
STORY BY
ADAM ONDRA
DIRECTED BY
LACO KORBEL
CAMERA
PAVEL KLEMENT
LACO KORBEL
ARCHIVE FOOTAGE
DIRECT ALPINE
EDITED BY
PAVEL KLEMENT
PRODUCTION
JAKUB PÍNA
SUBTITLES BY
JARKA MARČEKOVÁ
EXECUTIVE PRODUCER
PAVEL BLAŽEK
SONGLIST
Alejandro Del Pozo - It Was Worth It
Evan MacDonald - Do That
Sonic Sanctuary - Sunlight City
Cymatix - Comfort Zone
Klaus Hergersheimer - Whitehorse Meadow
Tellent Studio - Dream Landing
© 2020 AO PRODUCTION S.R.O.

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Опубликовано:

26 июл 2020

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Комментарии : 410

@colehibbard2851 4 года назад

Adam: this hold is surprisingly quite good The hold: 6 mm slopey crimp

@flyingmuntliger2808 4 года назад

Look more like 3mm very slopy crimp. Especially when Adam says its good haha

@gustopher6500 4 года назад

@@flyingmuntliger2808 wow the joke is so much funnier when you exaggerate an exaggeration

@Fred-oz3tw 4 года назад

With massive overhang 🤣

@johnnycigar3240 4 года назад

place your feet right and small holds will feel good

@Fred-oz3tw 4 года назад

@@johnnycigar3240 not adams small holes

@hsk2978 4 года назад

Imagine being tired of your neighbor drilling whole week, so you go into the mountains. And there is another guy with a cordless drill :D

@challengemasters775 4 года назад

Most drills are cordless do you live in Antarctica?

@luisdominguezmora7216 4 года назад

@@challengemasters775 he may live in a noncordless district 😂

@hsk2978 4 года назад

@@challengemasters775 I live in Slovakia (Adam Ondra is from Czechia, we were two parts of one country until 1993). If I can, I use drill with cable. They are usually more powerful and you don't need to change and charge the batteries. I'm pretty sure most drills are not cordless in my country.

@laynelowry8283 3 года назад

I am alone and I can't stop literally laughing out loud at this

@YogSoth 3 года назад

@@challengemasters775 Wow, why did you feel the need to trash a comment that was genuinely funny and original?

@Strade8 4 года назад

"Sometimes you bolt a route and than you are disappointed because it was too easy". Very relatable..

@hbdc6957 3 года назад

ah i hate it when that happens

@PenguinShake111 2 года назад

So relatable smh

@Theantmang 2 года назад

easy to him being 9a, 9b+ hahaha absolutely a monster. hes so cool man, truly an idol and I just found out about him a week ago. Watched over 40 videos lol.

@HochstartHarry 9 месяцев назад

This actually happens to me. Not in his grade range oc but its disapointing when you think its gone be hard af and then its easy stuff that looked way worse.

@VinceW187 4 года назад

I thought the mountains were created with the bolts, this was a eye opener.

@hanswoast7 4 года назад

I got a feeling Adam will find a hilarious knee bar on the slab section :-D

@chaosengine4597 4 года назад

and he will - once again - make a prayer to the gods of gravtiy while hanging upside down on said kneebar.

@TrackpadProductions 2 года назад

The _really_ hilarious thing is that you probably meant this as a joke. Then the madman actually went and did it.

@frr1107 4 года назад

You can tell he‘s super excited about this route

@Theninjaonthemountains 4 года назад

He is running out of difficult routes so he is drilling his own, smart man!

@alexfletcher8465 4 года назад

his other 9c he drilled

@matthewzaloudek 4 года назад

He has bolted plenty of routes already.

@ostapbendervan7874 4 года назад

So true..dude amazin In his FIELD CAN SEE WITHIN TWO YEARS/HIGH FREQUENCY TRADING

@crescentfuze 4 года назад

lol, this is hardly new. He's by absolutely miles has the most hard first ascents of any climber. He's bolted a lot.

@Theninjaonthemountains 3 года назад

@Pavel Blažek thats perfect, I wish they allowed us to drill on our local rock

@longliveharambe8415 4 года назад

9c? He's back at it again-

@TheSuperLegoMan100 4 года назад

Can’t seem to stop climbing for some reason

@danielfry8097 4 года назад

@@20GRob king line is on private property and the landowner has said he doesn't want climbers there any more....

@Landolini 4 года назад

Polluxerium I mean he did just that on the 9b+ level a few years ago...

@gwayav9 4 года назад

@@20GRob www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/climbing-area-laghel-closed-off-with-the-dream-of-the-9c-route-for-stefano-ghisolfi/

@MarkusSojakka 3 года назад

@@gwayav9 Oof

@susanjane4784 4 года назад

I really love the dotted outlines showing the various holds -- it really helps me see what I would otherwise never ever see. I plan on seeing this again before you actually climb the route.

@mockingbert3023 4 года назад

the camera work and editing on your videos is done very well. Laco Korbel and Pavel Klement, nice work :-)

@StayPrimal 4 года назад

I really enjoy watching you Adam. You stayed humble, even tho the WORLD is SCREAMING at you that you are the best on the planet. It is very nice to see ... Athletes nowadays ... love themself too much.

@joshsmith3836 4 года назад

I am extremely excited to see the outcome of this. awesome stuff adam!

@Meta-Drew 4 года назад

Interesting, I never thought about other people not being able to try your project unless you say its okay

@julianneubacher2194 4 года назад

I guess they can try it but ain‘t allowed to clip the anchors.

@sket179 4 года назад

In some places they place a red padlock into the first bolt so that everyone knows not to touch the route. It's common courtesy not to climb if someone else has put in the effort to clean and bolt a route. It's their baby, and get to name it.

@TheAndrewChild 4 года назад

@Thu Nell Ⓥ marking routes as "closed projects" via red string is a very common practice in the US. It often takes several hours or even days to clean and bolt a route. Also the developer is usually paying for the bolts (~$5-15 per bolt) out of pocket. Many people would be unwilling to go through that whole process if they didn't get an exclusive chance to get the first ascent.

@8kshower706 4 года назад

@Thu Nell Ⓥ Not really, just classic climbing ethics. You spend years cleaning, bolting and developing a route then you get the FA and naming rights. It's considered unethical to get the FA on someone else's project without their express permission.

@mx2000 4 года назад

@@8kshower706 Is there a time limit to that courtesy? After how long would you consider it okay to try a route, if the route setter is not able or interested in doing it?

@Theantmang 2 года назад

He says he hopes the route isnt too easy, the easy will be a 9a + hahaha . Adams passion about climbing is something I wish i could find about something in life. I aspire to be so happy and balanced as he is.

@fallingsounds3455 4 года назад

Hammering is not what expands the bolt - it's the tightening of the nut that makes the bolt flange expand.

@alcupone6462 4 года назад

Yes, complete misunderstanding of the principle of expansion bolts. I hoped that somebody pointed this out and I don't have to write comment by myself. Thank you!

@StayPrimal 4 года назад

@@alcupone6462 Kinda weird, to write a comment that you are happy not to have to comment about it.

@Fred-oz3tw 4 года назад

@@alcupone6462 im proud that you knew it :) god job :)

@alcupone6462 4 года назад

@@StayPrimal still happy :D

@jsl2phdx 4 года назад

And the torque use use for tightening the nut is very important...I think Adam is not using enough torque in the video....

@danielnaylor1698 4 года назад

Awesome work Adam, I love seeing you push the progressive edge of sport climbing.

@ryansmifh 3 года назад

glad to hear how far your English has come from when i first heard you speak. it’s amazing man, keep up the hard work.

@marcgiol541 4 года назад

No holds drilled, no sika, humble... Wish lots of bolters who still drill holds with the excuse "otherwise won't be possible or too hard" learn something. Stay humble, and if too hard, leave it for next gen 💪

@jsl2phdx 4 года назад

7:40 Actually the expanding happens while tightening the nut and not while hammering the bolt in. It is important to tight the bolt with specific torque! And two more things you can do better is to tape the drill bit so you don't drill much deeper than you need and to hammer the bolt in as far as you can whilr being able to get the nut on. This makes the "working lengh" of the bolt inside the rock longer and the part sticking out of the nut is shorter so you dont hit it while clipping or falling.

@br4713 3 года назад

"specific torque" means nothing, because it depends of the hardness of the rock. When you tighten, you should be able to feel this torque increase, showing that the bolt expands correctly, and then stop before damaging the rock or breaking the bolt. If the torque doesn't increase or decreases that means the rock is too soft or the hole too large (if you changed angle while drilling). For a rock climbing usage, it is also important to only use long stainless bolts with a diameter superior or equal to 12mm to get enough strength.

@jsl2phdx 3 года назад

@@br4713 I agree that you have to feel that the expanding part is engaging with the rock. I also don't use a torque wrench. But I bolted a lot in similar limestone to Adam's route and it looks for me like he did not tight the bolt enough. And for harder rock like hard limestone or granite 10mm bolts >70mm long are super bomber. They will hold at least 20kn and you will never get that load on climbing.

@br4713 3 года назад

@@jsl2phdx Hello, I work in rope access in mountain and use those bolts for years now almost everyday. Stainless steel resists to corrosion wich is a good thing, but on the other hand it is brittle and can break if you overtighten it (already seen). The resistance of a bolt is much less than 20kn, it depends of the hardness of the rock. The 20kn mark that is engraved is the bolt hanger's strength, the resistance of the bolt itself can vary between 5 and 10kn depending of the rock resistance...

@jsl2phdx 3 года назад

@@br4713 even a massive whipper doesn't bring you to 10kn. I have never seen a well installed 316l 10mm expansion bolt that is not corroded threw sea water or in too soft rock that broke from a climbers fall

@jsl2phdx 3 года назад

@@br4713 10mm expansion bolts out of 316l stainless steel are probably the most used bolts existing...but i'm not a rope access worker just a climber and craftsman so you might know better ;)

@judyo923 3 года назад

Wow! Who knew Adam had such a great talent for being in front of a camera! I'm hooked and subscribed! So glad I found him. He's super interesting, talented and so generous to share his experiences and knowledge with us.

@nemesisofeden 4 года назад

Today is a fine day for learning. Thanks for showing us your wisdom!

@davideros9806 4 года назад

This is hands down one of the best episodes so far!

@arthipex8512 4 года назад

So excited to see you work this project! Please don't skip straight to the send with your videos :D

@xD3adp0olx 4 года назад

So interesting to see the process of bolting a route. Thanks for the great video!

@Koppo90 4 года назад

This is so enjoyable to watch, keep on Adam!!

@janfeldmann1307 4 года назад

I am so excited about the new route. Cant wait for your first attempt

@ostapbendervan7874 4 года назад

Right on! Dude, Keep On Trucking

@MissTayPlays 4 года назад

Great video ! Explains nicely how routes are made.

@user-ju9hg9er8w 8 месяцев назад

You transmit a tranquility.... Maximum🍀🍀

@ficklemedia8733 4 года назад

Thanks Adam. Cant wait to see how this works out 🦾

@nicolaibatstad6881 3 года назад

Great video! Thanks for introducing the bolting process to us🙂

@6omni6draconian6 2 года назад

Letting them know you're going to bolt and climb is a must. Along with showing your appreciation and gratitude towards them.

@MrJacobmetcalf 3 года назад

The information that you're providing use amazing thank you so much please keep making awesome content

@etiennelebon7763 4 года назад

Me *Looking at the holds Adam points at* Adam: 3:32

@Perrseus 4 года назад

LOL

@Greg.92 4 года назад

Funny comment, but you're 1sec off. 3:32 seems better, no? Might want to edit.

@biomorphic 4 года назад

This is what's happen to me on a 6b...

@el_id_oz2545 3 года назад

made my day😂👌

@andrescalvo4386 Год назад

Great video. I am also from a place called Moravia 😆 but in Costa Rica. 🇨🇷 thanks for sharing your work and your views. Keep the hard work and keep the passion. Peace ✌️.

@jonathanblt7055 4 года назад

9C? He's back!

@diacoder 4 года назад

Can't wait to see you send it!

@YogSoth 3 года назад

Adam’s pronunciation of 4 syllable words is the best.

@drewmiddleton9715 4 года назад

Can't wait to see you project this!

@MarkusSojakka 4 года назад

So hyped for this project

@hugokuhns7711 4 года назад

so exciting!!

@davehall263 4 года назад

Cant wait to see you try/send this project! :D

@SuperEroticJesus 2 года назад

This is super interesting! Very good at explaining everything

@jakubbiay3207 4 года назад

Awesome episode

@g.n.1393 4 года назад

Good luck bro. Smash it tiger!!!

@InHarmsWay2009 4 года назад

Fun to watch someone put up a new route using a "ground up" style but actually going top down.

@Alygoola 4 года назад

I can't wait to see him try

@youtubeSuckssNow 3 года назад

I've been wondering this since I started watching your videos. Especially on upside down areas

@allezvenga7617 4 года назад

Thanks for your sharing 👍

@johnmcmillen4540 4 года назад

Can't wait to see Adam climb this monster...

@markwalker3575 4 года назад

When bolting with true-bolts (with a nut on the end) I usually use a lock washer and loctite to prevent the nut from loosening over time. I found Flush-heads (where the nut head is part of the shaft) are better as there’s no nut to come loose over time. I also use a brush to clean dynabolt holes. The cleaner the hole the better. The trickiest part is getting a good system in place to make the job as easy as possible, cos it’s pretty hard graft! Nice tutorial tho Adam.

@ericconnor3728 4 года назад

cant wait for the next video on this

@antoinescholler9814 4 года назад

Oh yeah... Silence big brother 😂

@lauraramos64 3 года назад

hola adam tengo 10 años y llevo 6 meses escalando , mi maxima bia es el 6B+ tus videos me estan motivando mucho y por eso me e suscrito . GRACIAS

@updown_vlog 4 года назад

I’m looking forward him to trying this:)

@challengemasters775 4 года назад

Adam u shredded my ear with that drill at the start as the audio was only mapped to the right ear

@mikeybigfoot1354 Год назад

I'm teaching my son the ropes of climbing and his teacher will be the best (Adam) 😊

@nath0117 4 года назад

I didn't understand a word of what Vkadimir said, but the rest was sooo interesting ! Seriously I've been wondering about this precise subject for so long, thanks for all your explanations !

@ArtZ00 4 года назад

Turn on subtitles!

@Mdjagg 4 года назад

Believe it or not, this was like 5% of the bolting process. He didnt reveal much. I hope no one buys a drill based on this "tutorial".

@msalty2823 4 года назад

funny, I believe many first ascentionists would look at then entire route on rappel and maybe even top rope it before bolting it. I suppose that you can bolt to explore the moves if you get bolts from sponsors and can climb pretty much anything. Looking forward to seeing the attempt to send.

@patriciarodriguezsalgado9493 2 года назад

Awesome potential for a 9c Congrats

@danielecirigliano5486 4 года назад

Great video, thanks

@sagarborhade1022 4 года назад

I like your passion bro

@marciosilva294 3 года назад

well done!...🧗🏻‍♂️

@cr1pwalkcam-ron823 3 года назад

i dont even climb and dont know if i ever will but i just keeping watching all these videos

@ozijak 4 года назад

Cool!!

@jakoblange6051 3 года назад

Is there going to be a follow up, where we can see the rest of the route? Would really like to see you bolting and climbing all of it...

@ml.2770 3 месяца назад

Ah damn it won't go...but I have this Hilti chisel and drill...oh I didn't see that hold. Perfect.

@matthewdavies1415 4 года назад

Excited to see how you get on Adam! Question do you think the progression of cutting edge sport grades will be due to these boulder hybrid sport routes or do you think it still possible to achieve these grades in a more traditional sport route style?

@dcu21 2 года назад

Can someone explain to me how the first bolt was put in there? 4:19

@capybaraponque611 Год назад

yeah

@kerenbarboteau8977 2 года назад

Thank you Adam for posting this. I kept wondering who/ how those bolts were fastened.

@callummather4471 4 года назад

Can't wait to flash this next time I'm in the area

@MartinClimbs 4 года назад

If you read this! 7:25 please checkout the whole 10 minute vid of a local legend setting routes since years! The video is called "Pokerón" on the Hanibal cz YT-channel. I don't remember it having subtitles yet, but the cinematic and raw appeal are incredible.

@nicopuada4618 4 года назад

For more Czech sandstone goodness, there's also the 30 minute English-subtitled "Od palice k vrtu" by Direct Alpine. It shows Špek ground-up bolting a new route. Absolute legend. The footage here is from that short film.

@SleepTightShipOfDrea 3 года назад

@@nicopuada4618 I watched that without subtitles haha didn't notice that feature! But I was totally amazed

@davehause8571 4 года назад

Nice, no chipping!

@jenomlucka4578 4 года назад

i like your videos

@aaronmayer3947 2 года назад

Hilti, nice

@noahk1031 4 года назад

sick.

@rleas5347 4 года назад

Some expansion anchors require you to tighten the bolt not just hammer in. This is coming from a structural engineer who has never bolted a route. Maybe hammer in expansion is the norm on rock but generally I have used expansion bolts you have to torque, they are better.

@StayPrimal 4 года назад

8:55 '' It's quite common in my own crack that once you remove the outer layer, it is yellow underneath, it is kinda humid. This is normal '' - Adam Ondra.

@icarlos4035 4 года назад

lmao

@jordane2276 4 года назад

Quote is incorrect

@lukesonnenburg5006 4 года назад

Maintain before extending; for your body and your routes. Expansion needs a solid base. Please remember to support rebolting efforts everyone!

@xskhoo91 3 года назад

Who else loves the way he says clean.

@evilannatar27 4 года назад

i just watched your video silence, very impressive, super human!

@amarantaheredia1700 3 года назад

Re-tightening bolts. Is it a good practice? I had heard of it in Kalymnos and bought myself a wrench, only to discover a year later in a routesetting course that re-tightening is dangerous. What's your opinion on this?

@alvarodepas7877 4 года назад

Go for 9c+!!!!!!!

@Alex-hq5ir 4 года назад

Lol watch this be 9c+.

@atelino8313 4 года назад

8:50 Anyone knows Distant Coder? No? SOLID ROCKS BROTHER

@KingKeets251 3 года назад

I saw an earlier video where Adam talked about the etiquette of bolting being that you should only bolt if you climb from the bottom. Think maybe I misunderstood, anybody know what the ‘rules’ are?

@vincentescola6169 4 года назад

Now all i want if to see him try 😭

@thewateringwiz7118 4 года назад

God yes I can't wait for the next video ! So excited to potentially see the next super hard route that Adam might send ! Another 9c would be awesome

@Connordrs1123 4 года назад

TheWateringWiz or maybe even 9d???

@Connordrs1123 4 года назад

TheWateringWiz that would b dope bc it would be first 5.16

@thewateringwiz7118 4 года назад

@@Connordrs1123 haha I think you meant 9c+ ? But yeah, it'd awesome to see adam reach the next level !

@paulmitchell5349 3 года назад

There is a wonderful modern invention for placing bolts in the first 8 meters. It's called a ladder.

@metallicakevin1 Год назад

is there a vid of him trying the route?

@vikster420 4 года назад

Was always wondering how they got there

@alexamerri2 3 года назад

Question: before you (Adam) started making new bolts, you went up the wall by attaching to an existing bolt. How did THAT first bolt get in place?

@SpartaSpartan117 2 года назад

Well clearly someone attached themselves to an existing bolt and put that bolt in place

@borecz161 4 года назад

He should try to bolt 10a so he has a challenge :D

@TheLordBoltagon 4 года назад

Next episode will be the first ascent? Btw very intresting the process of bolting, if you can see the possible holds previously 😁

@bmonteleone48 2 года назад

more of this!

@ShepardOfficial 3 года назад

I know this is crazy, but who else feels like he's doing these 9cs as training to one day bolt the first 10a route... come on. You'd ALL click just to see what kind of blank ass rock could qualify for 10a..

@baileylangton4027 3 года назад

Love the thought process behind this. Adam has already introduced 2-3 “new” grades to the world at their each respective time so I can TOTALLY see him being the one to introduce 10a into the climbing realm

@ShepardOfficial 3 года назад

@@baileylangton4027 right? Lol i kmow even adam says he might not be the one, but in the 80s and even early 90s, 7b was crazy. Its just a mindset. Im glad you saw where im coming from lol hopefully we'll see each other on the first 10a video adam uploads 💯👏🏻

@jonaskopecky5846 3 года назад

Propably wouldn't be blank, imagine a 40m 8C boulder problem and you have a 10a

@ShepardOfficial 3 года назад

@@jonaskopecky5846 it just depends on what it was. In other words a 40 meter 8c, like you said, would be around a 10a. But so would a 15-20 meter 9a or 9b. Which would be ridiculous lol. I'd be interested either way. Hopefully a "silence" type route like you described, that route was amazing to watch him conquer

@YogSoth 3 года назад

Honestly, it wouldn’t surprise me that much if Silence gets upgraded in the future. Compared to Megos’ 9C, Bibliographie, Silence looks easily one grade above at least in my opinion.

@rw9280 3 года назад

I think you guy saying "he should of torqued the nut more" underestimate his strength. Is there a follow up on this route?If Im unsure of a bolt placement I drill deeper so I can bury the bolt afterwards.

@mateundercover 4 года назад

This Guy can only share good vibes??? @₩€some

@maurorodriguez1320 2 года назад

Hi Adam! Or I've to call u... Shaggy? 🤔 Btw very interesting video! Thank u!

@morgendorffer3504 3 года назад

4:27 mhmm! tastes good

@telofy 3 года назад

Wouldn’t he have been able to fasten the rope at the top of the wall and top rope down to install the bolts on the vertical part? Or would the ropes not be long enough?