As a motor manufacturer in Racine, WI. I thank you. I love seeing these motors being used. I may have other parts for these motors and some more of these motors lying around my shop if you’re needing any other parts.
LOL. What's with Racine and electric motors? I was born in Racine, but was moved to Bay Area as a kid. Sooo I notice when I see Racine mentioned. I've noticed Dremel was made in Racine, and at a thrift store rand across a "massager" by Vibrosage Beauty Appliance Corp.
@@xtiansimon Chester Beach (a talented electrical engineer), Louis Hamilton (hired as the advertising manager), and Fred Osius (who founded United States Standard Electrical Works Co. in 1904 - the company's main product was a massage vibrator) founded Hamilton Beach Manufacturing Company in in Racine, Wisconsin in April 1910. They designed a universal motor and used it in household appliances like fans and portable vacuum cleaners. The motor became really popular, and in 1913, Beach and Hamilton left the company, formed Wisconsin Electric Co., and specialized in electric motors for power tools. In 1929, they changed the name to Dumore Manufacturing Co.of Racine, and Racine Universal Motor Co. was one of the many companies that adaptated their universal motor for other appliances like clippers. At the time, Racine had a high concentration of engineers and inventors, plus a skilled workforce, and lots of facilities in place for producing prototypes, so it became a center of sorts for small motor manufacturing from the 1940s to 1960s. Albert F. Siebert founded Milwaukee Electric Tool in nearby Milwaukee in 1924.
The problem with these old jewellers lathes is that most of them are incomplete. I ended up buying three to make one relatively complete set. The others have been in their boxes for years. I put them up for sale 3 days ago, maybe someone else can use them to complete theirs...
@@thecaptain5865 this ones got lots of torque for the tough jobs, this one gots all the speed, this one works really well at the really low speeds, this ones kinda torquey, runs decent at low speed and gets fairly fast too. oh and this one is the only one that works with this attachment... that i thought about using about 30 times last year but never bothered to pull out and set up.
Awesome restore! A safety note, being that its a metal-enclosure and it plugs directly into mains voltage it might not be a bad idea to upgrade the power cord to a 3-prong design. The third ground wire would simply be connected to the metal enclosure of the motor body and the pedal. That way if any wire comes loose inside either metal enclosure and touches the metal, the current safely drains via the ground plug and not an unsuspecting person. edit: A helpful tip I learned for working with tiny parts in a shop: Sweep your floors before working. That way if you drop something tiny you aren't sorting through everything to find it.
Also, he has the three cords meeting with open connections. I'm sure he intends to put a box around that, but it would have been easier and cleaner to run the cord to the plug into the foot switch, do all the connections inside the box and then a cord to the motor.
Love the pre-sweep tip. I also have a built in bench so I've inlaid a magnetic strip in the floor just inside the front edge so that there's always a chance the small screws get captured before rolling deep into the corners!
After all that mains voltage wiring, and baking field windings (with shitty old cotton covered rubber), it would be foolish NOT to test the insulation resistance (500V DC) AND connect safety Ground/Earth to the speed controller and motor. Clearly, these components are not double insulated and being so old a death trap sooner or later.... likely sooner. This is what you get when non-professionals fiddle with mains powered equipment.
My husband is addicted to your videos. He is quite handy himself. He brought this video to my attention. I am in the process of restoring a 1910 Singer sewing machine. Hubby pointed out the origin of the motor. As a resident of Racine, I reminded him of the many things that used to be manufactured here. While working on my sewing machine, the foot pedal for the motor that someone updated the machine with was also manufactured in Racine. Nice job on the restoration.
Just a note on wiring this up. You should make sure you have the line voltage going to the switch, and not the neutral. (On a 2-prong plug, if it's a polarized cord, one side should be fatter then the other, the fat end is neutral, and the thin end is line!). It will work either way, but this will ensure that you are switching the voltage and if for some reason the motors power goes to the chassis when the switch is OFF, you are not going to immediately electrify it and possibly get a shock. Also it's not a bad idea on an old switch and motor to ground the metal chassis and use a 3-prong plug for safety. Just attaching the ground wire to the metal chassis is usually enough to add a bit of safety and can usually be done without any external change to how it looks. This will ensure no matter how it's wired (or the outlet you are plugged into is wired), if the chassis ever gets power it has a safe path out of the device!
Am I the only one that finds it funny that the HOT prong is smaller then the NEUTRAL??!! I learned that many years ago, but it never made much sense to me. I always figured that the hot is drawing the amperage and should be the larger terminal, not so. Maybe when something is not in use, it's more important that have a larger connector to neutral, or ground to return unused electricity, but, WDIK??
@@atcmadness4351 I was told it was done for safety on the outlet. The smaller hole mean less random stuff can be shoved in the hole. Now with mandatory outlets that have shutters in it, it's less of an issue then in the past.
The thing is that the switch reverses the polarity going to the motor rather than killing the power outright, so a 3-prong plug (and possibly even a 3-conductor wire to the pedal) is definitely the way to go.
@@TehFreek Clearly, you don't know what you are talking about. It's an AC motor - there is no "polarity". The switch changes the connection between brushes and field windings to change direction of rotation. The inclusion of a safety Ground/Earth should be mandatory. The primary resistance speed controller box and motor are NOT double insulated construction. Adam SHOULD know better, rather than set a poor example. Crappy yanky two pin plugs come in a 'polarised' format to ensure the Active conductor is the one that is switched or fused (not the Neutral). And who in their right mind would fit a 3 pin plug as you suggest, without using the Ground, anyway? Only a hack who knows SFA would do such a thing... and such fools should keep their hands off such equipment.
Always love your videos and shop vibe. Also love how you embrace and talk about your ADHD, as a 60yr old man with ADHD I strongly identify with your stories about your childhood and life. One of my traits is playing the same music repeatedly when working so I almost fell off my chair when you started singing Hamilton which is one is my go to shop streams. Thanks for being you
My tip for finding tiny parts on the floor is to get a powerful flashlight and shine it across the floor at a low angle, so the lost part casts a shadow.
I recently learned that is why my Hoover vacuum cleaner has a light on the front. It’s not for vacuuming in the dark, it’s so that you can see all the little things you are going to suck up.
Thanks for the memories. My Dad was a watchmaker in the Flood Bldg in San Francisco for over 40 years. I remember years ago rewiring the motor and pedal on his lathe in the exact same way plus replacing his carbon brushes too! For me, it was the spring and cap that popped out of my hands.
Bruce here: when you were talking about the scary part reassembly I was reminded of working as a tool mechanic in a small hardware store. Sometimes a good amount of time would go by before repair parts arrived so the boy I sure hope I can remember how you go back together moment began. Thank for the great video.
LOVE vintage motors, especially miniature ones. The old ones were built just like the bigger industrial ones, nicely rounded with feet etc. Very rewarding to restore! Some of these lathe motors came with mechanical brakes.
I just love watching people hold things in their hands while they're drilling them. So smart! Especially when they're leaning right over a bench vise. That just adds to it for me. Remember, a moment of indiscretion can lead to a lifetime of consequences.
Wonderful watch for me! I repaired the vacuum cleaners for 3 years in a small town. The owner was a genius with eidetic memory for most things. His passion was vintage vinyl records. We are still friends. Your smile Adam... I share that same satisfaction. Average pace was 3 vacuums a day for three years five days a week. Making is such a blast! Vintage restoration is just to top! All my best sir!!!
Back in the 60s and before to get the crackle finish, you would paint the item with your desired color then wait for it to flash off "a desired amount of dryness" then you would take a spray bottle with your desired water particle mist (fine mist but not too fine) then sprits the item lightly with Acetone then let dry. 😊 it's a really fun process to learn.
I really like the technique of showing a little bit of real-time work, and then doing a timelapse of the rest. I think it provides a good perspective on the scope of the project. Having some real-time sound over the timelapse is pretty neat.
Being a fan, I would rather watch a longer video, to hear him talking. To listen to all the self discussion, and figuring out what direction to go. I'm sure I'm in the minority, but would love longer videos.
We publish longer videos for our Tested members, because indeed our RU-vid analytics shows that most people don’t want a video that drags on too, too long …
Most makers and model builders I know seem uncannily good at finding tiny dropped objects. I play Warhammer and I can't tell you how many times I've dropped heads I cut off of sprues, but I've never lost one. I don't know if we're just able to track it by sound or what's happening, but it always amazes me.
The best shop advice I was ever given was that when you drop a screw on the ground (at least if it's a hard surface) is to never try to LOOK for it with your eyes, you'll miss it bouncing off every time. Listen with your ears and hear where it goes. Vastly higher success rate.
For info, tinning wires that will go in screw connectors (clamp or wire nut) is a bad idea, it's against regulations / code in many places - the tin can flow over time under the pressure, and the connection come loose and start arcing. I agree with using a three pin grounded plug & cable as well, with any metal cased AC powered device.
Not long ago i found a Makita 7-1/4" Circular Saw (model 5007NB) thrown in the trash. The only issue was the wire falling apart. I opened it and fixed the wiring. It work just like new!!! A $180 tool for free was a nice deal.
I used to sell the vht stuff at a paint shop i worked at, got nothing but great reviews from the customers and when i used some of their high temp paont to touch up my smoker it went brilliantly
What a lovely singing voice Adam! I used to live near your Myth Busters space in SF and always wanted to ride my bike down there (but would never intrude!) Love your channel 🧩
Watching Adam makes me feel better about my strange ways of working things out. Mutter to yourself, ask yourself questions you already know the answer to (yes I've already unplugged it but check again), something fell on the floor I heard a small tink 3 minutes ago, I swear I just put that thing right there..
One-sixteenth horsepower. As I'm watching, I'm trying to estimate the efficiency of the motor. I've been disappointed in many of the small motors I've collected over the years, some run quite hot, and heat is the enemy of electrical equipment. It all comes down to the weight of iron and copper used, so there has always been a big incentive for manufacturers to scrimp on materials. Given how good of shape this motor is in (assuming it was used normally and not a replacement part sitting on a shelf most of it's life), I suspect it is quite efficient and runs cool. I'm jealous, actually. Side note: I hope you have GFI breakers in your shop ...
17:06 And this is exactly what most people should do, most of the time. Once you take the same thing apart a few times though, it just ends up slowing you down.
When I used to do computer repair I used ice cube trays to sort the small parts at each stage. Each group got it's own "cubical" and I always knew which screws to use for the next step when putting it back together.
Not me screaming at my tablet while watching you try to take the foot pedal apart. 😂 First time I’ve actually known what to do in one of your videos because I service and restore vintage sewing machines.
I have been watching your videos for a while now during work and I absolutely love them. Ranting about drawers or design or how things are put together speaks just right to my heart. But this morning … That spray can mixer … i need that! Can you or someone else spill the beans on that one? I also love how the can is so tightly in it! Wonderfull! I hope someone comments on what that is or how it was made …
Adam, I really think you should start adding your own machinist label to every part you repair. "Modified and repaired by... " I love the idea of an item having two labels down the road for another caretaker to hopefully add their own as well.
Quick safety tip for repairing high voltage stuff: I always use a passthrough RCD plug between the wall plug and what I'm working on. It avoids the 100% inevitable brain fart electrical shocks from forgetting to unplug or slipping a screwdriver tip. Just remember an RCD is a backup to, not a replacement for, the usual safety guidelines like unplugging the device while active conductors are exposed.
They're 99.9999% surely 3D printed. You can find them in various shapes and sizes, including perfectly sized to hold things like 12x AA or 20x AAA batteries.
At this point i would not be the least bit surprised to open up youtube and see Adam has a video rebuilding his Dyson Sphere he found on Ebay. Adam is Scotty from Star Trek lol.
I love watching these and watching the mildly chaotic parts where Adam grabs the phone like a damn vulture and pulls it closer to view the things better on camera 😂
Never knew what it was called but I love the old school crackle finish found on commercial industrial stuff. As a young kid in the mid to late 70's I used to see a ton of things coverd in this finish. There were various colors as well: Olive Drab, Grey, Brown and Black. I recall a lot of items in school had this finish.
The nameplate would have been retained by drive pins. They have a coarse spiral on the stem and just tap in. To remove, you either gently pry up the plate, or cut a screwdriver slot and unwind them.
OR, remove the field windings and bump the pins out from inside, just enough to grab em with side cutters. Pry up the plate ruins the soft Aluminium nameplate that could have been left on and simply masked up for painting. Baking the field windings and VIR wire, while drying paint (SMH) is asking for trouble.
Weird. I just reconditioned a 30 year old sewing machine foot pedal and attached it to a jeweller's pendant drill. Totally was a really satisfying restoration. The foot pedal has much better speed control than the plastic junk that came with the drill.
I love when Adam said "we guna tin you up" Reminded me of when Gonzo was shot out of the cannon on one of the muppet movies, the other gonzo dude said "we guna blow you up baby!" Hilarious! Great resto Adam!
I'd really like to see you use your influence to join the Right to Repair movement. I may have missed you talk about it previously, but it's an issue very close to the hearts of makers. Fame can do a lot for things like this.
I just love seeing old 'stuff' being given a new lease of life by someone. I can just imagine that motors had such an interesting life or two up til now, and just as its getting ready to go to that junkyard in the sky, its plucked up out of nowhere, and hey presto, another story to tell... Fantastic.
10:33 a cylindrical one is better + item held securely in a vise or bolted down to something held in a vise. The conical or ball types have different speeds in various parts of the bit (and while it may seem as it doesn't matter) that's how they get you. At that size and RPM, it really counts.
Love your video, i love to restore these old motors, i have a lot of old bodine, general electric ect... motors and various equipment that i pickup at Purdue University's Salvage building, i went to Purdue from 75-78 and used to stop by the salvage shop everyday after class and later when i worked after work for at least 35 years and have hundreds of projects that keep me busy since i retired in 2019. I see that you have a set of the Wiha screwdriver with the red tips, in our rc model airplane club we love these German made screwdrivers and i made a point to get their 50 piece masters set before i retired, thanks for your videos and loved you guys on Mythbusters all those years.
At one point in time while watching this, I asked aloud "is it plugged in?" Without missing a beat, Adam responded "is it plugged in? No it's not plugged in." 😆
I don’t agree. The true definition of a hoarder is someone who throws nothing away(especially trash). If you could point out one thing that is trash in his shop I would be very surprised. I will agree with you on wishing I had as much stuff!!!
This is a great restore project. Rebuilding electric motors is tricky business. For instance, some old electric motors used cloth connection insulation. This old insulation will turn to dust if the vanish used to seal the windings starts to flake off. BTW - Adam do you have a sand blasting chamber? Sandblasting makes cleaning off the old parts so much easier. Depending on your needs they do make a nice little lab sandblaster chamber if you do not have the need to do very large parts. I can’t wait to see your restoration video of the jeweler’s lathe.
I just searched this thread for "sand blast" because I had the same thought. I have a blast cabinet filled with glass beads that I have used for a LOT of parts cleaning over the years. Sitting on top of that cabinet is my bench grinder/wheel, the two devices go together for me.
Beautiful restoration, Adam. Only thing I would have done differently, is add a nice piece of wood to the inside of the pedal lever, to give it more rigidity and mass, so it can last even longer.
I love using that wrinkle paint. Apply a nice wet coat and it shrivels really well. It's available in red, too. The motor would have looked good in a "hammered" paint as well. A lot of industrial motors use it.
Definately please add a ground wire to both the motor case and switch and use a grounded plug. When these were built it wasn’t required, but it’s a hazard waiting to happen without it and easy to do.
It definitely turned out nicely. The only major difference I would have done is to use black wire. With the new black paint, the grey wire looks out of place.
