I remember when the GH5 came out everyone used to talk about how great it was you could adapt apsc and full frame lenses. People don’t seem to discuss this much anymore. Thanks for the video.
Great overview! Thx! I was shooting from the beginning with vintage lenses, since they had been so cheap in comparison. I made a lot of mistakes, so I totally agree on your advises. My personal favorites: a 55mm F1.2 FD lense. Nothing more smooth in this world. The 58mm Helios is fun and easy to get. The longer Leica/Leitz R-Mount lenses (135mm / 180mm / also the 50mm and 90mm) are relatively cheap and easy to get, and I think they are just awesome.
I’ve been deep diving lens adapting for a while after picking up some Bronica ETR gear for super cheap and playing with the idea of picking up a Pentax Q. Thinking about adapting these to my RP and the Q as a smaller kit. Great timely video!
For who is unexperienced with vintage lenses = Always ask the seller if the lens has fungals, haze, separation, stiff focus and if there's an heavy amount of dust inside the lens. Many people did give up, because they've bought some bad copies as first vintage lenses, and that's sad...it's really important to have good start with vintage lenses, to truly understand the beauty and joy of using them! Great video Caleb! Cheers!
Interesting. On Sony, you can use the Jupiter 32mm m39 (the weird lens with bolbus back element on the start of the video). I'm using a plain metal adapter from Fotga, the barel is longer and it sits fine.
My absolute favorite FD lens (esp for stills) is the 135mm f/2.5 S.C. and I highly recommend trying it out. It is a heavy mofo but soooo smooth and with a pretty long focus throw. In my opinion absolutely worth it.
Vivitar primes are fantastic. I have their: 20 f3.8, 28 f2, 35 F1.9, 55 f1.4, 85 f1.8, 90 f2.5, 100 2.8, 135 f2.8, and 200mm f3 lenses. Very solid and mostly affordable if you're not going for their rarer stuff. They're in every popular mount from the 70/80s.
Rule 1. Jobs take more equipment. With more people, who have the gained knowledge. Through built up experience. To complete their responsibility. Of turning in a high quality. Project in its fully completed form. To the persen or people. That hired them!! If you know yourself to be the type of person. That these types of jobs. Are way over your head. In at least a few areas. Then I say to you. To spend time associating yourself. In getting as much experience. As you can in this area or areas. To become a more. Intellegent and skilled cameraman. There is nothing worse. Then your boss or bosses. Having to constantly have to walk up to. Your constantly standing there. With both a puzzled and confused. Look on your face. Including all of your hired assistance. Asking you, when are you going to start the project. It has been two weeks now. And I am still seeing all of the equipmen. Un boxed!!
Omg I thought it’s so easy, like buy an adapter and you are ready to go. But it is incredibly difficult science… geez! Thank you very much for explaining!
Great video as always. I just want to add few things. 1. Don’t trust field of views markers on the lens. Adapter usually little shorter than original flange distance of the lens. To make sure it can focus to infinity. So it’s not accurate anymore. 2. I used to using EF to microless adapter. Then another adapter for lens to EF mount. Really bad ideas. To much play between the adapter. Don’t do that. Find the best adapter you can find. Don’t be cheap. Cheap adapter can cause uneven field of view. Metal dust to the sensor. To much problem.
One quite important thing to know about vintage lenses is that some of them got radioactive coatings. So it's good idea to check if the model you going to buy is actually radioactive or not. This been quite common for lenses from 60s and 70s. There a lists available to check against.
@@RumleKjaer The color of the coating gives it away. The radioactive ones contain Thorium Oxide and have a yellowish sheen. Sometimes it can look almost brown, but that is a result of the coating breaking down over time. There are mixed opinions as to the danger from radiation. The general consensus seems to be that the lenses are safe to use, and as long as you do not have it close to your exposed skin (or in your pocket right next to your…private areas) for extend periods of time you should be good. Someone also conducted measurements and concluded that beyond a foot or two the radiation levels are not even above normal background levels. Make of that what you will…it’s the internet,you see. Hope this still helps tho. Edit: the Helios 58mm lenses do not have Thorium glass. At least mine doesn’t.
@@mack_solo Generally there's no such thing as "save ammount of ionizing radiation", although it's generally believed the lower the level the safer. Some people also consider fluorescent bulbs as dangerous. Depends on a personal definitions of a danger. Generally for the lenses it's believed that close contact might be dangerous. Most people put them close to the face while taking photos and some people like to store their class in close proximity (on the desk for example). They are for sure not as radioactive as atom bomb or Chernobyl area, but it's better to be informed.
First started diving into vintage lenses in August of 2020. Now I’m putting together a set of Minolta primes for their superb optics and extremely consistent look.
I found an old Yashica 50mm 1.7 in my wife's old unused camera bag. Picked up a Y/M to ef adapter and started testing it for video. Blew my nifty fifty away.
Caleb!! It's Chris Nguyen! Can't believe it's been years since I helped you with your GH5 tutorial at Mag Media. I love my Leica R kit and Helios! Meyer Optik 100mm is another dope lens you should check out too!
You're older videos convinced me to play around with vintage glass. I'm curious to know about what you do when you get a new lens. How do you test it? What do you look for? How do you decide whether it's a good lens or not, or how do you know what shooting conditions really make a lens shine? It's a bit of a novice topic but I'd love to know more about how you evaluate glass.
How do you test it? You use it. (unless you are conducting technical performance tests against cards, grids and colour checkers) What do you look for? Results. How do you decide whether it's a good lens or not, The same way YOU decide about good kitchen utensil, or a tool, or an appliance - your subjectivity takes precedence. or how do you know what shooting conditions really make a lens shine? Practice. It's a bit of a novice topic but I'd love to know more about how you evaluate glass. Remember it's a personal preference set against other lenses based on your experience.
These are all very subjective questions that you yourself should experiment with. Its very hard to state with any sort of absolute which are the best lenses and why, the eye and how we interpret images (composition etc) all matter.
@@MarkHoltze While final judgement is indeed subjective, it can help to know how others come to their conclusions so that our own process can be refined. I didn't ask what the best lenses are, but rather to elaborate on how he decides which ones suit his tastes and needs :)
Just ordered the Fotasy adapter for OM to L mount for my S5. Forgot that this even was an option, and I've had that lens sitting on my OM1. Excited to get a new look/lens for the S5.
I did purchase an adapter in Ali Express from the brand Commlite it is an awesome active adapter to use the Old Olympus Fourth Third lenses on the Micro Fourth Third cameras Bodies. I use it for the Lumix G85 and it is working fine. Excelent video greetings from El Salvador
That Jena of yours looks like it just came out of the assembly line. Really nice video! Definitely going to mount a few M42s on my camera and have some fun today.
I would like to know more about the Double Adapting Method/System. I have picked up lots of vintage lens of various brands over the years and I have never bought a focal reducer for any other them because I just could not justify the cost. I would love to see a video on this explained in some detail. I think a lot of people would like to see it. Honestly, I'm still not totally sure I understand how it would work. Thanks.
Oh my goodness! I just started diving into vintage lenses and I've been wondering what was the difference between the regular fotodox m42 to ef and the m42 to ef with the focus confirmation chip. I figured that was what it was for but couldn't find an explanation anywhere! Thank you sir!
@dslrvideoshooter I just bought a Helios 44M with M42 mount and I have a question, I think you are the right person to ask it to: Can I use one of those simple ring screw mounts you showed to a mirrorless Canon R50 or do I have to buy one of the thickest you showed aswell? Thanks in advance
Put together a set of 7 Leica Rs this year. Nearly a 20k journey, so be very careful going down this rabbit hole, because it gets addictive and expensive very quickly 😅
I've been shooting Canon since I was young, so most of my glass is FD and EF. I thought I was the only crazy one using FD to EF, then EF to EF-M to my Canon m50!
My 2 cents after years of buying vintages lenses. Try to get M42, Contax C/Y mount type lenses. I adapt them to EF with simple adaptors that are cheap. I also have a Adaptor, Viltrox, canon EF to Sony which has the VND inside making it soooo much easier than also buying the adaptor rings for the front of the lenses. Of course this is all for Manual vintage lenses. When I was on BlackMagic pocket it was such a PIA with the metabones adaptors and crop factors.. Hated it. Full Frame is so much easier to work with, specially with older wide angle lenses. I also tried collecting Canon FD lenses and had some beauties but it was a PIA and needed a special metabones adaptor just for FD mount. My Carl Zeiss Contax/Yashica lenses are my favorites and I have a ton of Takumars that are beauties.
I have several great lenses for a canon ae1 . I got back into photography and I’m starting with a canon t7 eos1500d. Is there a mount I can use on the rebel to utilize my ae1 lenses? Thanks for your time, Jeff
Question, you briefly touched on M39 (aka. LTM/L39) lenses towards the end. Are there different adapters for SLR vs rangefinder style M39 lenses? I have some beautiful M39 canon lenses for my Canon 7s (rangefinder), but I’m confused whether or not I can use any M39 to (in my case) FX adapter or do I need a M39 rangefinder adapter specifically. Thank you!
I don't see what differentiates M42 with PK, OM, MD etc, in terms of the cheap/plentiful offerings on the used market. Infact I think the PK mount dwarfs the l39 mount. Great video tho!
Fantastic Video ! About double adapting I was really wondering if it works for any adapter ? Basically I had this idea for my fuji camera, buying a metabone adapter to EF for adapting modern lenses and get cheap EF to FD for my vintage FD lenses but are they not too thick ? I mean, for m42 adapter it's a few millimeters but it's not the case for any adapter and i'm sooooo afraid loosing 700 bucks on a metabone which i'll use very occasionally Thanks a lot
... you know what I don't understand, or have never seen... VND adapters but for the native lens mount type. EG a VND mount for RF lenses and body. Do they do those, and if not, why not? Is it because those native lenses are designed to be at that specific distance from the sensor so putting something in-between won't make it work? Does that make sense? :)
Carl Zeiss Jena is actually german but the manufacturer Pentacon who produced the Praktica cameras that often came with Carl Zeiss optics had to pay ww2 reperations in form of cameras to the soviets.
Hi Caleb, thanks for the premium content. Quick question - if I’m shooting with go pro 9 and Sony a7riv - what video codec and settings should I prefer on both, in order to get best (in terms of difference between the footage shot on each) results in post (editing)? Highly appreciate your channel - even if you have no time to answer ☺️
GoPro's pretty straightforward. You'll have to adjust these settings on the camera itself, as the protune settings are not available in the app. Set the resolution to as high as possible (5K), and the bitrate to as high as possible. For the color profile, pick Flat, and for the white balance choose Native. You also want the widest possible lens setting so you're using as much of the sensor as possible. You want the lowest ISO possible given your lighting conditions, so ample light is important, but those are the best settings for quality.
Any thoughts on good vintage zooms? The Tokina 'Angie' 28-70 seems to be one of the most sought after for being designed by angenieux in the 90's. There looks to be a few other zooms Tokina made that same year but I don't think angenieux was involved in those.
Could I attach one of those vintage Chinon cinema lenses on a Panasonic g7? I've seen the Chinon's sold with a m42 mount, and I'd like to get one and just use a m42 to L mount adapter.
All of a sudden all the FD and OM lenses skyrocket in price on eBay 🤣. Thank you for excluding Contax Yashica, they've already gone up in price and supply is much more limited
With the chinese manual lenses so cheap I don't see the need to use vintage lenses, since the adapter make the rig overall bulkier. Some special lenses are worth, but the classic 50mm, 35mm, 28mm, etc, not at all. Nothing up to 85mm, where you can find good bargains in manual fast lenses. Some 1.2 or very fast ones are worth the investment.
Is it true that the method to use m39 mount lens in modern mirrorless cameras (let's say fuji x camera) is different based on the lens type? I mean if the lens which will be adapted is a rangefinder lens, we can directly use a "m39 to fuji x" adapter. But, if m39 lens is a SLR lens, m39 firstly must be converted to m42 with a ring converter, and then m42 to fuji x adapter must be used... Is that true ??
I only have 1 important? I have a red one MX it came with a ARRI PL MOUNT BUT I ONLY USE CANNON EF LENSES WHAT TYPE OF MOUNT DO I NEED TO USE MY CANON LENES ON MY RED ONE MX
Would a passive adapter in general have a much lower chance of losing image quality? I bought a cheap EF-L mount passive adapter, and was curious how likely It'd be to lessen the quality of my EF lenses with electric/mechanical parts within them. I'd love to hear your thoughts on this.
Kaleb is the king🤴 Guys anyone know why my Helios 44-m on my A7iii goes into crop sensor mode and I can't use its entire 58mm focal lenght? Am I using the wrong adapter and I should get one specific for full frame cameras or what?
thanks!! can I use this Laowa 9mm lens in my EF camera? I have investigated and there are no converters and they have told me that there is no way, but how is it possible!? 😳
I bought an adapter for my DSLR but I'm struggling to get exposures correct, I'm matching the aperture in body to the aperture of the lens but they always come out over exposed and I don't understand why
I just went into the lenses website you pointed out. At the "new marketplace items" section there is a highlighted ad of "Cleaning your love dolls" for 25000 dollars. Ermm...............
I'm shooting on a Nikon D5100 and trying to find some lenses to adapt to with 20mm or below focal length. Anyone have recommendations on adaptors or lenses to look at?
I have been using adaptors for a while now…. I have used a load of m42 and CY mounts on my cannon, Leica, and Fuji xt3..,. Passive are best in my humble view for older Russian lenses, Jupiter 9, Helios 44-2.. Takumar, Carl Zeiss… forget the metabones… just get an Adaptor… Ironglass have modded Helios lenses for 200 us with a Cannon Mount…. I think with lens mounts keep it simple…. Meta bones are too expensive….. I still take in my humble view good pictures….. there is no need… My contex cy adaptor cost twenty US dollars….. put it on the Fuji xt3 with a 50 1.7mm… boom… Carl Zeiss Jena 35mm 2.4…. Pentax Takumar 50mm 1.4….. Contex Carl Zeiss in my view are the best….
@@insolitofilmes Oh, thank you. I wasn't sure as it is a DX format camera so it uses a smaller CCD. I will have to trust my less than optimum eyes to focus. I remember in the 'old days' some cameras had some optical aids in the viewer to indicate when the picture was focused. I guess what I need for other brand lenses are adapters to make them fit an F mount then Thx again.
