Awesome video. I had no idea the inks could only be removed from one end and that there is a nearly microscopic screw that acts as the internal post in there. Saved me a LOT of time and money.
Why would you take a job you don’t know how to do? That’s how y’all do business? Y’all just be figuring it out off RU-vid videos. Nice. very professional. And to have the client waiting? This is what I mean when I tell everyone that there’s a lot of people out there who are just playing pretend. Keep on playing pretend buddy. When you get something you can’t just go on RU-vid for, that’s when you’ll learn.
@@burritolover5082 Thanks for your valuable opinion. I am a 30 year career bench jeweler. I primarily make platinum and diamond jewelry by hand. We also sell modern Rolex, Patek, AP, etc. We however send out all of our watch service work. This Tag is not worth shipping to our watchmaker for a bracelet sizing. It’s also an older, relatively obscure model. I did it as a service to our client.
@@burritolover5082 You must be a ton of fun to be around. There are many things that someone at times needs help with, so not sure why you're berating this person so much.
I'm glad it helped. I've always loved the Senna versions of the LINK, and I've watched the Senna documentary on Netflix maybe 5 times now. It's a beautiful watch!
Question: Thanks for the video. The pins were tight and difficult to remove. I used the first tool you show here. However, when i replace the pins they fall out, easily. I checked how i put them in and followed your guidance but they still fall out. Any thoughts/ suggestions?
I wonder if you removed the pins in the wrong direction and this somehow ‘chafed’ or compromised the friction fit of the pins. Often, the bracelet will have 2 grooves in each metal link to fit the pin, but each link only has 1 raised section, not 2. So the idea is that you remove the pin in the direction where it only goes through 1 groove of the bracelet. Conversely, when you put the pin back in, you insert it in such a direction that the pin’s raised edge only goes into one of the bracelets grooves, not both. If you did either the removal or re-insertion where the pin was forced (you mentioned in your comment that it was difficult to remove the pins), then this may have compromised the friction by 'chafing' the raised edge of the links. Also, many middle links/pins have a collar, a small sleeve that initially is inserted in the middle link before the link goes together and the pin is re-inserted, and then the pin goes through that collar when the pin goes through the links. Maybe you didn't insert that collar section when you put the links back together. This collar, along with the raised edge of pin hold the pin into the link, and thus the bracelet together. This is friction fit type system. Perhaps your pins aren’t solid and they’re folded metal, where one end of the pin looks solid but the other end has a slit in it. In this case just create more friction by removing the pin and spreading it out a little, like expand gap between the folded metal so that it sticks better when it’s back inside the link. I’ve used little screwdrivers to make this adjustment in pins, and 'fan' the pin out a little, but be careful not to snap the pin entirely as they're not strong in general; just give it a little bit more space but not too much. But in any case, the short answer why your pins are falling out is from no friction.
Yes, I believe it does. I also had an older 2003-ish model and it worked...It just doesn't work for the Link's predecessor, the S/el (you need a tool for those old S/el models).
You have to buff them out, which means taking down the metal until it’s all even. I’ve paid a jeweller to do it in the past and the results were excellent.
If you mean the locking flip, it requires some force. It may seem like you’ll break it, but just give it a good pull. I prefer the 2-button lock on my Carrera, and it took a bit of getting used to when yanking opened the older Link bracelet.
