The best explanation of this thus far. Thank you. I also agree, I watched the other videos depicting this and some of them were wired completely wrong. Thanks again for your time and effort.
You are correct in that it doesn't make It DC but incorrect in that it compresses it. It will actually invert the negative side of the wave and over lap the positive side of the wave which will give you pulsed DC. But good video.
A/C has two conductors. They are neither Positive, or Negative - they ALTERNATE so many times per second. The bridge Rectifier effectively converts these alternating pulses to Direct Pulses - e.g. 'direct current or DC' where one conductor is ALWAYS positive (when conducting) and the other is ALWAYS Negative (when conducting). X'tee times a second, the output approaches ZERO, but the current output is always Direct, DC. With a CHOKE (in series in the + lead) and A (suitable) Capacitor across the two DC conductors, one can all but eliminate the cyclical voltage drop which makes things weld better. So far, I've yet to see a detailed description of such a setup (specs on capacitor(s) detailed construction of a suitable/serviceable choke) or I'd share!
By definition a rectifier converts AC to DC. In this case it's pulsating DC. You can smooth out the ripple with a CRC or a CLC network. The compressed AC line that you are talking about is the ripple. If you switch your meter to DC you will see the DC component. Check out this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-p5DLEpDRBYk.html
im doing to same thing. BUT you might want use the positive off the bridge recruiter as your clamp/ground and negative for your weld stick. ALSO you want 23k-50k uf caps and a bleed resister in parallel. and if you can find a microwave transformer core as an inductor. also some LPD-50 quick connects would be nice too
@@joeydelmarsjr.646 It seems to weld better or about the same with less spatter and has held up ok so far but I have only used 3 times since converting. I mainly use mig or tig and my tig machine does stick in DC. It is a project in progress to say the least and needs fine tuned still. Good Luck!
That is not what that rectifier does. It doesn't suppress anything as you describe. It takes AC input and outputs pulsating DC. If you add a capacitor to that pulsating DC output, you can get a fairly smooth DC output
here's where I have and issue with this A bridge rectifier, also known as a diode bridge, converts alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC). Bridge rectifiers are used in many electrical products and workplace appliances, and are a key component in power supplies (battery chargers use them) Yes, bridge rectifiers are used in battery chargers: How they work Bridge rectifiers convert alternating current (AC) from the mains power to direct current (DC) that can be used to charge a battery. Other components Battery chargers also include a transformer to step down voltage and an ammeter to monitor the charging current
If you want cleaner DC you can make an inductor "Choke" using thick wire and an alternator core, microwave transformer core, etc. Also you can wire a capacitor in parallel on the output leads something like 40,000uf 150-200volt rated... Just what I've picked up reading so far.
Do you wire the capacitor on the stick lead only? And would you get a cleaner DC wave by using the positive as your clamp and negative as your electrode?
@@josephhreha8465 I tried reverse polarity and really got no difference, (negative lead to the stick side) I would just keep it positive electrode. Your capacitor needs to be rated higher than your voltage, there's a white stripe down the side of your capacitor, that's the negative side which attaches to ground clamp wire between your diode and your ground clamp, the positive lead on your capacitor attaches between your electrode and your diode. Mine went diode first, then inductor (wired in series) on either the positive or the negative side it doesn't matter. Then my bank of capacitors the positive leads wired to the electrode side and the negative leads wired to the ground clamp side.
Don't worry if you get it wrong, your capacitor will explode and shoot hot oil everywhere. Along with a huge cloud of smoke and steam. 😎😆😆😆 (Ask me how I know, lmao)
I let people make comments on my videos and you are entitled to your opinion. If a $20 wave rectifier made an AC welder into a DC welder then Lincoln and Miller Welding must be doing something wrong I guess.
@@djrowe10 The bridge rectifier does output DC current (as it is no longer alternating), but the power signal is not a clean straight line. The power signal will have significant ripple between the peak voltage and zero volts (but does not cross zero, as that would make it AC). Capacitors (in parallel) are needed to smooth out the valleys in the signal in order to "clean up" the dirty DC signal produced by the bridge rectifier. The capacitors will charge up when the voltage peaks and then discharge when the voltage drops, providing the desired smoothing effect to get a cleaner DC power signal. Someone attempting a DC conversion on an AC welder will want a bridge rectifier capable of handling the max number of amps produced by the welder with a margin of error (more margin of error the better, but also more cost). They'll need to provide good heat sinking (preferably with a dedicated fan as well) so that the bridge rectifier can stay cool. They'll also need high-capacitance capacitors (they will be physically large and probably fairly expensive). The capacitors should be wired in parallel with the DC side coming out of the bridge rectifier. A bleed resistor should be wired across the DC lines for safety to discharge the capacitors and to prevent the machine from trying to weld/spark when it's otherwise powered off.
I agree with your response and is why my message is that just simply adding a wave rectifier alone doesn't provide clean 100% DC conversion alone. My video contains none of the other needed things to make a clear pure signal in DC from AC. There is an actual electic engeneer on RU-vid who shows all parts and how to do what you listed in his video.
My dad got his Lincoln 225 in 1975. He gave it to me a couple years ago. It still works great, but needs a fan replacing. I just might try this. Great video. Can anyone tell me if dielectric grease could be used on the heat sink. Thanks, stay safe.
You got a pure DC unfiltered voltage. On the Graetz you lose about 3 - 5 Volts, which is negligible. Do not add any capacitors, the currents are too high, they are unnecessary... you have certainly upgraded your device to a higher class 👍
I'm trying to learn how to use the Prius Gen3 inverter h-bridge for generic rectified inputs (like from a generator or multiple generators) for optional 120, 208-240 and 460-480 pure sine wave outputs since seems like is feasible with the properly designed controller. I was also wondering what would be the best way to design a circuit for options to output as a welder power supply besides feedback for CV or CC and frequency control, in particular a high power offset circuit so for use in aluminum welding, i.e. an offset square wave so can select a range of DCEP or DCEN ratios. Kind of off topic, though neat to see your design and got me thinking about since on the topic of assessing options before getting into the intricate details of the circuit modeling before some hands on experimental testing before scaling up the actual controller(s).
@@notcharles You know, I finally actually posted on the openinverter forum this vision of a project. Wound up investing in a gen 2 prius as well and three inverter converter assemblies to work with since those parts inside like the IGBT H Bridge inverter, converter and other parts seemed more modularized. Zombieverter seems better maybe for the gen 3 as a plug and play option maybe with only coding required to do and openinverter I found has been demonstrated by the creator to produce noisy 220VAC mains output and he notes that did fry some equipment that I guess needs the pure since wave output. I last left off wondering about filtering the signal to remove the harmonics so to make a stable pure since wave output to start with in a more compact way to avoid the larger like buzzbox maybe size transformer cores as a cost effective way to wind an inductor. Maybe multiple microwave oven transformer cores wound as inductors might be correct. I studied the impedance theory a little more as well last night actually to better understand the reactance at the different frequencies coupled with resistance to determine impedance where impedance is basically resistance at different frequencies. Lots to still learn, though slow turtle pace style moving forward. Thanks for the kinds words to remind and inspire.
Sorry for long delay in response as I had to look into the multiple microwave transformers which took a few months to gather the theoretical information and feel that yes it would be a better possible method. If you have found out that to be true then let me know how it works out. I may try that as well and make a video if so. 👍
Thanks for the response. Similarly, I've not worked on in a few, though someone else has recently inquired about the inverter-converter assembly design as a universal pure sine wave inverter. I mentioned either maybe like an old transformer design welding machine as-is using a winding as an inductor or rewinding or rewinding multiple MOT's. Just been busy with two many things, including advocacy work. @@djrowe10
I really was just looking at how to do it quickly and without a bunch of other complicated elecronic parts. I have 2 DC stick/tig machines also. But DC is a better type of welding overall for better performance in relation to penetration, appearance, and other things that when this AC welder was made in 1990 was much cheaper then a DC unit that could cost up to a thousand dollars. AC has it's use in a small limited type of welding and I suggest you go online and study up and learn more about DC and AC welding if you are getting in the welding trade. Also youtube has many master welder instructors that have dozens of videos about welding. Good luck with your project! 👍
I have a ac225 buzz box. I purchased it in 1990. It sat for 25+ years unused. I got 220v in my garage, last summer. I plugged it in, it works beautifully. I considered these rectifier bridge add on's for dc welding. But after reviewing my Bridge rectifier training on JG The Organic Chemistry Tour, I understand why Lincoln charges what they do for an AC?DC BUZZ BOX. I am NOT a pro welder by any stretch of imagination, but if I need DC, it's better to buy a box that has DC. These rectifier add on's don't have the current and voltage regulation needed for a good signal. But I am sure MANY will be able to make it work for their needs, JUST FINE. If I could sell my AC BUZZ BOX, I would fork over the cash and buy the AC/DC version, or buy a DC capable box. If I can find out what stick to use to weld Aluminum with AC, i keep what I got. Just sayin!
This modification is just a bandaid for sure. I sold my AC/DC Lincoln welder and just bought 2 separate welders one portable DC and this AC box. I can get you the part number for a good AC aluminium welding rod. Just let me look in the shop next time I'm there.
@@djrowe10 Thanks for any ac rod assist you might find. Along with my Buzz Box I got a Lincoln 110v sp-125+. Both over 30+ years old. I want to take advantage of new 220v in my garage. Looking to get anther box, probably a MP combination, with a spool gun. Just want to be able to do some light aluminum, and some sheet metal auto repair. Maybe on 20 years I'll be a BAD A Welder!
I looked at my shelf and have a box of something from Amazon supplier called SUA welding technologies. It is OK...will work in a bind but not best out there. Will add link at bottom. Sorry that I couldn't find my blue demon rod because it is the best. You can also call blue demon directly and ask them what rod you should get. They are a good company. If not try the amazon special I found recently. Aluminum Electrode - E4043 Stick Electrode - 14" x 1/8" - (1 Lb) www.amazon.com/dp/B074W9R9Z7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_ZS96AX8P9H846JZCY5WZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@djrowe10 Thanks for the info....My new lincoln l31mp just don't have what it takes to strike an arc with 3/32 4043 rod...just for giggles I cranked up the ac225 and it can't start an arc either....it was a long shot either way...time for a spool gun.
I cannot say for certain that it would 100% work as I am not sure about what exact parts you would use. Plus I am not an electrical engineer but I do think it is possible. If you try it let me know if it works.
I wanted to ask about rectifier reliability. Is it good or not ? Because it is noname i do not know if it is reliable or not. I am hoping that you are using the welder and would like to share som experience about the rectifier. Thank you
Seems like only one to find online. Back not too long ago I would go to radio shack and get my electronics. Now we have to rely on ebay and amazon unfortunately. Hasn't melted or burned up yet after some mild use. Haven't put machine to full amp setting just 90-120 so far and welds a bit better. I have a DC stick direct current 220amp machine for heavy steel.
Hello, Thankyou for sharing this video. Your rectifier for your welder, where did you get yours? because most of what I see online doesn't have the positive or negative mark's on them. Thankyou Again
I have added the parts used in the description drop down box. You have to click on the more info link under description box to see these products Amazon links. Thanks for watching.
No 100 amps is not enough generally. You need to have the amps safely higher then amps of welder used to not overheat and destroy the unit. So if your welder is under 100 amps then that may work.
Not sure if the manufacturer lists watts as welders operate on amps/volts. This 300 amps or 1600V which converted to watts mathematically is 480,000 watts. Good luck with your project! 👍
@@djrowe10 so it I add 10 10amp 12volts lithium battery packs to the back of my solar panel connect it to motherboard with xt90 connector then connect that to 100amp mppt controller to my solar panel would that work?
A single rectifier (called a half wave rectifier), yes but djrowe2 is using a bridge or full wave rectifier which has 4 rectifiers so there is only a few percent loss in the rectifier itself.
