Adding to the 'Magnus Midtbø 9C Test' with  

I had no idea you did 8c sport! Bonus points for your street cred 😎

8c is the score he got !

Ooooh good to know!! I'll corner Dan again for more hahaha. I have the analysis outtakes on my Patreon as well :)

Yes, i love those. Dans insight is great and its also nice to see different styles and how they play out on the wall

Agreeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Yeah can't get enough of Danalytical

Get on a wall, hurry

FR! These side by side training vids are so good at zeroing in on the specific areas of flexibility that need improvement and that is super motivating to my lazy, can't be bothered to unroll the yoga mat, ass.

hehe thank youuuu #fixed

ooop thanks, it should work now?

That’s a great point! Removing variables can be useful for testing. However, all of those variables you listed also come into play when you’re actually climbing. More variables doesn’t mean testing and training on edges smaller than 20mm is useless; in fact it actually can help mitigate some of them (e.g. training your skin to be tougher and less painful on tiny edges).

@@EmileModesitt Ah ! I didn't say that training on smaller edges is useless (but for testing, i think it is), but that it was not so strongly associated with finger strength. However, in testing, you usually want to isolate as much as you can what you're testing, or you end up with data that you can't analyse (which is, arguably, what you want to do with the results from the test). You particularly don't want to have "random" or "variable" stuff come in to play, such as skin (which varies hugely even in one person) or conditions, because it means that one result you had one day with one climber can't be compared to another result, with the same person, but three weeks later. In addition, we could generalize that the more complex the test becomes, the more complex the analysis will be, up to a point where it's impossible or at least not measurable. We can see this when the coach is comparing the two climbers in this video : sometimes, even though the two climbers have a very different approach to a movement or sequence, the coach can't exactly say if one is better that the other, because too many things comes into play.

And her legs.

😂 🍫 🌰

@@AnnaHazelnutt I'm a scientist. That doesn't mean I'm smart 😆

For sure! But then you wake up )

If you send me a pic of your feet, I will rate them.

It's not actually his test, it comes from two fellow Norwegians who wrote The Climbing Bible. Magnus just popularised it on RU-vid so it's become his.

The test wasn't developed by Magnus, he just popularized it by being the first to do it in a video. It was developed by Stian Christopherson and Martin Mobraten.

A trendy, clickbait title. Get rekt

Ahh, I kinda meant it just like that-- their test leaves out everything that isn't explicitly strength, so we specifically tried to do other tests (everything the Midtbø test was missing?)

It actually is Magnus's 9c test, I didn't misspeak. Here's the link to the Hoopers video where we do the 9c test that I reference: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-srY3ZCKXGuw.html

It’s the guys who wrote the climbing bibles ultimate 9c test……ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UOBB4wkTdxQ.html They administered the test to magnus but it’s not the magnus midtbo 9c test….But you are right, I was wrong about it being the lattice test

@@stefslyfe The test was popularised by Magnus' video, your original comment couldn't be more wrong. No one would know what the Martin Mobråten and Stian Christophersen test is. By calling it the Magnus 9c test, we all know the reference and what the videos is about. Maybe next time check your facts before calling someone out.

@@chewa21 maybe I wasn’t talking to you. The test isn’t called the magnus midtbo 9c test and to title a video that it’s missing something sort of leaves a negative impression to anyone who doesn’t know any better, as if to say that the test isn’t all it’s cracked up to be. People include famous people (in magnus’ case, someone with over a million subs) in their title because they’re trying to improve the seo of their own videos and that’s fine, but don’t include a title that could be perceived as attempting to cast a negative light on someone else, while trying to at the same benefit from the usage of their name.

@@stefslyfe You made a public comment, if you can't handle receiving replies keep your comments to yourself. That's exactly what the video is about though. The test ISN'T all it's cracked up to be. Theres much more nuance to climbing than the metrics the test measures. Did you watch the video or just get butthurt that someone used magnus' name? The rest of your argument is garbage, do you actually believe that people can't critise other people in RU-vid video titles, whaatt?