Thanks for the great video. The project is just what I need, but has a broad appeal as well, I should imagine. Your thought process for how you broke down your rough lumber for maximum yield, to tips on milling are the tips of instruction which many other content providers gloss over. You can see the real world teaching experience and it's valuable. And the pace and style you provide is like having a private class. I look forward to your next videos.
Another great project, i build one when i took your class at Cerritos. its great tool for the shop, i wish i have more space so i can build a second one. Hope you and your wife are well. k transplant recovery is a long process but glad she is getting better.
Great video, I was wondering if using pine to make this would be a bad idea. I am also thinking to make the top a little wider also use it as outfeed/infeed for miter saw that is on a small miter saw stand perhaps clamp a piece of wood to it for repatable vital
Thanks! In general, pine is pretty soft compared to most hardwoods, so it may not work well. Plus, the pine I have worked with is, to varying degrees, pretty gummy, which could prevent the sliding mechanism from working well. I would try to avoid it if possible. There's no issue with making the top wider. One of mine is 15" wide; if you go wider than that I would make the feet longer too.
Hey Carl, found your content recently and have really enjoyed watching you work! I am going to be copying your sharpening station soon, when I saw it I laughed at how simple and yet how it completely makes sense. I am curious, do you find you do different operations on the miter saw vs your sliding saw? I've not seen many other woodworkers with both setup like that.
Glad to hear you appreciate the content! I use the radial arm saw (RAS) primarily for cutting rough lumber and the miter saw for finish cuts. The miter saw is more accurate and I have a Forrest blade on it so the cuts are really clean. But, due to the nature of the cutting dynamics, cutting rough lumber on it can cause pinching/binding if the workpiece is warped and not tight against the fence at the kerf. The RAS cut starts at the fence, so if there's a gap at the fence, the kerf opens up instead of pinching the blade. That makes it safer for cutting rough lumber. Of course, if you're careful you could use either saw for rough or surfaced lumber, but this setup works well for me. I hope that's clear. Maybe I should make a video to explain it...
I would definitely like to see it! If you are up to making more about your sharpening station, I know it doesn't look like anything crazy, I still would definitely get value from it.@@CarlStammerjohn
