hey, I have a problem, after the engine warms up there is a knocking noise in the second cylinder in the cylinder head. What could it be? valve clearance is good...
@@wonkster1970 A very tight drive belt puts extra strain on the rear belt pulley assembly. There is a needle roller bearing in the pulley assembly that has been known to fail. When that happens the bearing will seize to the axle and the axle has to be cut at both ends before you can remove the wheel from the bike. The drive belt pulley assembly needs to be taken apart from time to time to grease the bearing in question. There is also a needle roller bearing in the rear wheel that needs to be greased.
@@wonkster1970 Take the rear pulley assembly apart and take a look at the sleeve that is inside the needle roller bearing in the hub of the pulley. Chances are it will be bone dry and damaged.
really appreciate the video i've been looking for a good detailed video on how to get this done. my 07 has 46k on it and sounds like it needs adjusted.
Very detailed instructions, thank you. As you stated there is very little coolant in the actual engine and the hose to remove the coolant from the engine is a bear to remove even with a bike lift.
Thanks for watching. According to the manual, the lower hose needed to be removed to drain the coolant out of the engine. Nothing else came out after removing it though. Draining the radiator seemed to get all of the coolant out.
@@wonkster1970 I measured what came out of the rad and compared it to what the specifications state for the complete cooling system and there is very little difference between the two. I did not take off the hose to the engine for that reason. Without a lift it is very difficult to get that hose off.
Dude…you removed one bolt from the front cylinder rear cover and said “there’s one…” and then failed to show how you removed the other bolt!! That’s one the one I needed to see!!!!!! Maybe I’m missing it, but I’m not seeing the most helpful part of the video haha!
Alright for anyone who finds this comment, the manual wants you to drain the coolant and remove the hoses. You don’t need to. Just remove the plastic cover near the steering head and there is a screw holding the thermostat bracket to the frame. Remove it and that will give the hose a little more wiggle room. I was then able to get a small Allen wrench in there and with the strength of 10 elephants I busted the cap screw loose. I immediately threw it in the trash and replaced it with a hex bolt so I can easily remove it with a wrench in the future.
I went through my video clips. For some reason I didn't record that side of me removing that bolt. I'm pretty sure that I had to cut down an allen wrench for it to fit due to the little to no clearance.
Yeah that makes sense. I did end up draining the coolant and removing the two hoses over the front cyclinder. This was probably one of the most difficult valve checks I’ve ever done simply because it was so difficult to get a feeler gauge in there to measure. Adjustment wasn’t that hard but most everything else was.
