Hi Bob, regarding the clips that hold the cardboard for the speaker, we used to call them tinnaman clips They are used widely in the automobile industry because they can be pushed on metal and plastic studs. I have found that if you grab them with a pair of pliers and twist like you would a nut, they usually "unscrew" pretty easy.
Great video! I worked on a GE Bakelite cabinet that was oxidized on the top. No amount of polish would help. I used Tung oil per a recommendation and followed up with Johnson’s paste wax. Worked great. Also, regarding the ridge around the Admiral script, that likely due to a mismatch between the insert and main mold cavity surface. Due to the detail involved in engraving the mold for the script, it was easier for the mold maker to create as an insert versus in the mold cavity. This was due to the limitations of the manufacturing processes of the era. With today’s CNC equipment, this would be easy to do in in the cavity.
You are correct about bakelite. It's the reaction of phenol and formaldehyde catalyzed by hydrochloric acid then lignan wood powder is added to increase its strength.
I’ve never introduced bakelite to lacquer, but just on my experiences with either, I’d definitely try it on a little spot you don’t mind watching it melt 😃
30:15 If you have an original of any plastic part, it is trivially easy to copy it (especially if it is small) using a silicone molding kit and epoxy resin. Knobs are easy too. There is a guy on YT making copies of Edison diamond discs using this method. Even without an original, you can make a part out of anything really and then just mold it with the silicone and pour plastic copies. If you have an original that is broken, just glue it together and make sure no lines are visible and then you can mold it and pour a new copy of it.
On removing those speed nuts on the speaker mount. If you can grab the nut with some sharp needle nose pliers long ways then squeeze, it opens the bite on the plastic stud and lifts right off. I have had excellent luck doing that.
There's the problem. They are pushed down hard so that the corners are deep into the Masonite speaker board. I would have to dig the pliers into the board to get a good trip. Squeezing would then dig the corners into the board deeper. In other words it seems like that technique would cause damage
Looking good, enjoyed it, came to think of, I wonder if there is any film or pictures of the the mold and machines that made it back in the days, it would be really cool to see.
I wonder if you used an electric light duty electric waxer polisher would the results be better? You would still have to do the square holes by hand however.
Thanks, I have a couple of radios that I need to get around to buffing the case. Does anyone know a good method to replace a broken piece, eg. using a colour matching epoxy? I have a few radios that need some help around the back edge. I have epoxied cracks closed but am looking for ideas on filling larger holes. Cheers,
I got one good 16GP4 in a Zenith and one with no heater in a Admiral both fair chassis and cabinets what should i do? i think the admiral chassis is better anyone want the zenith and burnt heater tube after i swap them? i'm north of Chicago.
