Adox Scala B&W Reversal: How It Works 

I've resisted going back to 35 because I really like medium format, but this might just do it. They really do look stunning.

I can't wait to buy this and try it out!

I love your positive vibes! Definitely gonna try this one day.

Well done Lina! Very excited about this! Reversing a print from a positive was pretty mind-blowing! I didn't know that was possible!

I can’t wait for the 120 film. My 6x6 projector is hungry!

Great job explaining the process! 😄😃😃

Hi Lina. Love your videos. Your enthusiasm for analog photography is very catchy. I've wanted to find a way to print photos I take as negative images in the darkroom. I now have a couple of ideas. :-). Thank you!

Lina, dear Lina, you are a song of inspiration to my heart ;-)

interesting and exciting😊

I got GREAT results using 120 size Rollei Superpan 200 film (shot at ISO200) with 9mins @ 21deg First Development time. I highly recommend this kit, it makes the process easy. The Superpan film is super-panchromatic so I used an IR cut off filter (cutting out IR) because I prefer the look of this.

Thank you Lina! Great work!

I love Adox produts !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Awesome... It's look the same process of roba apposta! Great

Super informative Lina! Thank you very much

Huh, I had never heard of Scala before, I will have to give it a try

Ti ho "conosciuta" qui su youtube due giorni fa. Sto vedendo i tuoi video uno dietro l'altro. Eh niente, sono già innamorato .

Super-Blue hair looks great :-)

Thank you

I am reminded of my own love affair with B&W slides, in 1961, shooting the Seattle World Fair at night. If you have the equipment and chemicals of a normal wet darkroom, there is a much cheaper, easier, and more efficient B&W slide process than shown here. You can use any normal B&W negative. You contract print that negative to B&W litho film, commonly in 4x5 inch sheets cut down to size needed. That litho film is then processed in Dektol paper developer, just like a normal paper print, under a safe light. By changing the dilution of the developer and the exposure of the contact print to litho film, you can control contrast and density. When done, you still have your original negative in tact. Requires no special exposure or processing. The only thing not off the shelf is the litho film, which is fairly cheap and available from all major photo suppliers.

is there a place to find developing times for this kit with foma r100? i just developed my first scala 50 and fell in love with it! the store i pruchased from olny carries the 50 and the r100 and i wanted to be able to find developing times to be able to use this kit with both films as its available.. any help would be greatly appreciated

literally just took the same photo of that tower in Berlin from the exact same spot

Like the look of this, I do miss Florence now too after seeing those photos. I need to get back and shoot analogue !

I was brought here by your great Spectral sensitivity video. That one was super informative. I have really enjoyed the b/w and sepia slides that dr5film developed for me on some rolls of delta 100 and hp5 I shot. Their sepia slides are something you might find interesting, as I don't know of anywhere else where receiving sepia slides may be possible. Subscribed!

That is a very interesting kit! Thanks for presentation. How large is the density range (or today they say "dynamic range") of that positive film compared with a negative film like Adox CHS 100? Is it over 7 stops? or less? Are there scalafilms for mediumformat? Thank you

Thanks Lina!! It would be nice if the blixer could be sold separately so that we could experiment with other developers (for both or separately).

Hi Lina. I just developed my first film (reversal that is) of the Adox Scala 50. Everything worked it looks like. I think I overexposed in camera, I was using a Pentax ME with slightly iffy internal meter, plus it doesn't have ASA50 setting, it has two options between 32 and 64 ha ha, so I used one of those and set to 1 stop over exposure compensation. But there are nice deep blacks in some frames, and everything looks sharp. There is a very slight yellowish tint, that I think I see in your films on this video also, so maybe that's normal. The edges on the sprocket holes are completely black, so all the chemistry worked. I will do more tries with some exposure bracketing. I have an adapter on the way for making stereo 3D images on the Pentax, when that comes I will make 3D slides! I really want to do 120 film, Adox doesn't seem to have one any more, so probably will try FP4 or PanF 50 as some sites say they have generally lots of silver in the emulsion (also based on your other new video about Tgrain emulsions). Thanks!

In the past I used the Tetenal kit, unfortunately Tetenal stopped producing that kit, but nice to hear there is an alternative. In stead of getting into the "raw chemical route"

Hi. This bleach bath is based on potasium permanganate? thanks. I love your chanel

I'd be interested to see the process of printing (I have the exact same enlarger as the one in your video as it happens!) from these. One of the reasons I don't shoot as much slide as I would like is that I read it is was rather fiddly and tricky to darkroom print slide. But you show and suggest it can easily be done....I'd love to see a demo. And lastly, as ever, I love ADOX film, but just wish they would make more of it in 120 format. I wait with eager anticipation.

Scanning and digital printing?

Can you use these chemicals on any black and white film?

That T-shirt looks good on you 😉

i think may have done a roll in college photo class. will have to see if in my box of negs.thousands to re do,scan, print,enlarge. B&W negs are cool...

I rarely subscribe but you young lady have an infectious charm about a film I used so much a few years ago being the Agfa Scala 200 which I bought exclusively for my B&W photography. This is the only video I've watched I see there are more and will sort through them as time permits BUT, for right now I'm going to source out the developing kit. I did read a comment made about 120 film and your reply about Rollei films which I use now but not reversal. Can these film use the Scala B&W reversal kit and the same development technique? The very best to you Robert in Canada

What is suggested here is that what Adox/Photoimpex sells is the same as the Scala process. I hihgly doubt it!

Hi Lina, great video! About using it on paper. You said it lasted for around 4 18x20s. Is that for the 2 liters? Also is the developing and bleaching time same as with film? Im interested in trying it on an Afghan box camera. Thanks!

Thx for an informative vid! Re reversing other films, if your base is grayish, couldn't one just use a stronger light when viewing them? Shouldn't it at some point appear white, if just illuminated sufficiently? Another q, how dangerous is the bleach bath? Is it permanganate or dichromate?

Thnaks for this video, at least I tried and failed yesterday. At the end the film looks like grey with a chemestry hidden a part of the image. I can see the image but it looks weird, like a "veil" on the film. Can u help me to fix the problem ?

Films like HP5, FP4, the delta films, tri-x offer superior B&W positives. This kit is for 1 film type... FYI😊

I have some Rollei Superpan 200, Rollei Retro 80s and Adox CHS 100 II in my freezer which should be great film to reverse develop. However there are no developing times in your manual for these film stocks. Do you have any advice on how to procede with film that is yet untested with Adox Scala reversal developer?

This looks wonderful. I would really like to try it. I only wish Adox still made it in 120. Any chance that might happen again? 🤔 🙏

what is the first developing time for pushing the original scala 200x to iso400/27, 16 or 17 min?

This is really great news Lina!! I have a roll of Agfa Scala waiting for more than 12 years to be developed, I hope I can recover the images with this process!, do you think it's still possible? Thanks!

Hi there! I've been looking for this exact process for a while now, and even have two rolls of (likely expired) SCALA 120 film. I do have a couple of questions, though. First off, I noticed that when I was looking for black-and-white reversal processes, I noticed two main techniques, either using chemicals to bleach and re-expose the film, or using a jig to photograph the negatives onto other negatives, thereby making positives. Can you guys please help me understand what the benefits are of these? Also, since I'm a broke college student, do you know how I would bring down the cost of this process? In the past, I've even resorted to unspooling film and dividing it among a couple different cassettes to stretch the amount I have.

Hi Lina how many rolls can the kit develop? Thanks

thanks for your informative video～Is it possible to develop adox scala 50 or 160 using foma reversal kit ？and the develop parameter ？

Great job Lina! Question: Since colour slide film forces you to meter more precisely because of its narrow latitude does that mean that a bw negative film that is processed as slides also becomes a narrow latitude film? Keep up the good work!

Hello.. I have a note why the edges of the film with the holes remain black and do not develop.. Thank you..

I have been wanting to try this process for ages but the reversal adox film is constantly out of stock in Australia ☹

Hi Lina, is this kit based on genuine Agfa Scala chemistry?

The only dev times given in the book with the kit are for Adox Scala 50 and Adox Scala 160, and they're pretty different. If I have some original Agfa Scala 200X, how should I develop it with this kit? 14 minutes at 20 degrees (50), 15 minutes at 24 degress (160), or something else?

should work with Agfa Ortho 25, carrier material is very transparent.

Any recommendations for a 120 film that this works well with?

I don’t know but it reminds me something: a "apposta" stuff which was born in the southern and wild part of Veneto. Anyway good video

quick question about the chems, so basely, i just got a kit home, and I'm wondering after the 2 developer, can I reuse the same developer on more film or is it similar to normal one-shot developer that I after the finished developing, dump the chemistry?

Sorry to ask again, I failed again with scala film and reversal kit. I still have a "veil" on the image. Is it a problem with the exposure ? Is it a problem with the bleach. I process 7 films and only one came really great... So I'm lost, if you could help. many thanks

please could you share how to develop Foma R100 16 mm in Adox Scala? I have been testing all day with little success

Unless you are projecting the slides I don’t really see the use for black and white positives. Not going to be printing them in a Darkroom and if scanning it is easier to shoot color and convert to B&W in Photoshop right ?

Hi can you use this kit on T grain films thanks .

No distributor in the US?

primo tentativo fatto stasera con una Fomapan R.... disastroso 😂😭😭🤣🤣

Nooooo, it is not about marketing. Just the entire video is a commercial.

Very informative however beautiy of the host is shadowing the information