@ Javier Fauxnom I know --- simple 'n' incredibly easy to do, right??? Just like trying to reverse a huge bulky utility-trailer properly into a tight space is super-uncomplicated --- just keep backing up slowly till you hear da crunch, and then you know you've backed up far enough. :P
I mostly work with electronicals so I had never heard of one of those "stepper drill" thingys, went and bought one and it has made my life so much easier when working with metal and particularly plastics. Thanks Uncle!
Another benefit of step drills is that being single flute, they hold themselves concentric and make a round hole in thin material. They also can't corkscrew themselves into the hole.
The "Times New Roman" on Chinesium is actually what happens when you write the roman alphabet with the standard *Chinese* font called Mincho. Mincho was actually developed in Japan and you do see it on '90s Japanese stuff as well but these days it's the obvious flag of a company that never bothered to design its own logotype for export markets.
Hey AvE I've been in the USAF (Aircraft Metals Tech) since 96'. We occasionally have to hand drill safety wire holes with a # 55 drill bit in the hex head of fasteners on the aircraft or in the jet shop. The way we do it is by locating the start of the hole with a punch and then drilling perpendicular as if drilling a straight hole but when we have the entire dia. of the drill bit below the the surface we then begin to slowly move the drill in the direction that you want the hole to go while continuing downward pressure. In our case it's towards the closest corner of the bolt head but the same technique works on about anything. Love your channel!
While doing electrical work in a shop that had a dozen old screw machines noticed that they had a lot of left hand drill bits. Set up guy explained that if last operation was turning CCW they would use a left hand drill bit to save a second or two from stopping machine then changing direction. Saved them a nice piece of change while running the same piece 24 hours a day for several days.
You'll always want to use a cutting oil to preserve your tool and keep it from overheating and ruining the hardening. Especially when drilling stainless (316+ mainly) since it hardens something awful when heated.
This is just so wrong. If you are drilling a really small hole, say 0.5mm, then using oil will cause the drill to break. Instead, If you really need to cool the drill (wich you really don't) you should Instead use pure alcohol or water as it is not too viscous for the tool.
It's not "just so wrong" because you have outliers. The core statement is that you want to cool and lubricate your drilling tool to preserve it. 0,5mm holes aren't what most people drill and as such it's not the main target of a comment about using cutting oil. Yes, on very small holes you want a less viscous lubricant/coolant, though not pure water as water is worse than oil in small applications/holes.
I've been farting around in the shop for 30 years, so not a ton of new stuff here for me...but holy carp, that hole saw tip around 18:30 ! Just that one tip alone is more than worth the price of admission!
So I apply for a job at a machine shop and they call me in for an interview. The manager says, "Where did you learn machining?" I says, "From the keenest machinist on the interwebs." He takes me into the shop to test my knowledge, starts pointing at tools and asking me what they're called. I says, "That's an high-powered thumb detector. That's a set of Chinesium nut huggers. That's a hand held hole plunger, and that big one over there is the chief chooch-o-matic." He says, "Don't call us. We'll call you." I says, "Keep your dick in a vice." He says, "Security!"
Hey on the metal drilling I recently had to drill about 40 holes in mild steel from 11ga to 3/8" thick. Lots of the 3/8" ones too. What helped much was pilot holes, cutting fluid, and having the work lower than I was so I could lean into the drill, and also maybe most important putting a cup of water next to the work. Every few seconds stop drilling and spin the bit in the cup of water. I managed to do the entire job with one 3/4 bit without bluing it or snapping it off because it never got hot. Thanks for the tips.
An old timer taught me that you can grind the center of your drill bit down (similiar to an end mill) to drill round holes in sheet metal... It cuts a small plug out. Thought it was a handy little trick worth mentioning. Love the videos!!!!
Theres this trick when you drill through a piece of puckered cloth... Nice circular holes in thin sheet metal with regular bits. The cloth starts wrapping around the bit and weirdly enough guides it straight. An old timer taught me this at one of my student jobs - we made switchgear and I needed to drill these holes all the time. I cant remember all the details but I believe with a drill press it worked on 1.5mm sheet of mild steel with a piece of tree carcass under it, hole diameters up to 25mm or so.
One quick trick for everyone. Center punches are good at starting drill bits, but they excel at taking out side door windows in a car or truck. Even the cheap bastard ones from Horror Fright will do a good job at blowing out the side glass. If you have ever tried to bust one out to extract a person from a wreck that is on fire or close to it, you already know how hard it is. An automatic punch will take it out on the first try, I now have one in each vehicle I own and most of my friends as well. Just thought I’d pass that along.
it's tri-lobed because the drill bit catches more on one cutting edge, digging in deeper and acting as a pivot point so the other edge cuts with a wider radius than if it was rotating around the center point of the bit. of course as the second edge rotates around the first edge, it digs deeper and deeper into the edge of the hole, until it's dug in deep enough to pop the first edge free and cause it to pivot around the second edge and so on and so on. since each spot where an edge of the bit digs in deeper has a flatter area opposite it, this naturally favors a triangular shape with a two edged bit.
Dang, we must have gone to the same drilling school. I already knew all these tricks from 40 years ago when I was a machinist. I mostly visit for the humor; especially these days with the world coming to an end. Keep up the great teaching and entertainment.
love it! just like my boss when he first hired me. shows me all the safety squints and their various shades and colors then proceeded to not use them. lol you good ol' boys, is what we call your lot down in freedom world.
Love the Atlas Co Rockhose straps! I have tonz of those things all over - and they always come in handy... have a few in the quad cubby, in the truck, tool box, basement, shed, camper, you name it!
That's actually one of the few, very common nearing popular phrase of cheap, badly cast metals. That phrase is stated around the entire United States and has been floating around for years. That's not saying anything else this wanker (lovingly called) says is popular or widespread lol.
Could well be, I just weld the stuff and hardly ever have to drill/machine it... And the boss looked at me weird when I asked to get some alcohol to work with...
I bought some carbide twist drills, from a window/doors supplier, they're fantastic, they will drill into anything, even hardened steel! They usually sell them to locksmiths ;o)
" The other one where you can both watch the hockey game"... lmao alright I'm subscribing. God damn I wish you tube were like this back when I was starting out in the diesel shop.
Great video. I learned a lot. I wish you would have touched on drilling speed. I have a drill press that has waay more speeds than I know what to do with.
I found a neat way to drill Stainless Steel with a regular drill bit. If you can find the old AMBER Glue we used to use on paper in Elementary Schreul.,,,stick your bit in that and drill the SS plate. Not only SAVES your drill edge, it drills through faster.
I use water to lube while Im drilling hard steel. No smoke, a little steam when its time to spray some more. Keeps the drill bits cool. And nearly free too.
Are some of those bits made by Norseman? I've been itching to buy a nice set of them for a while. EDIT: Kept watching the video and found out that I was correct.
Bit 'o' historeeya: In 1781, Carl Wilhelm Scheele discovered that a new acid, tungstic acid, could be made from scheelite (at the time tungsten).[34][35] Scheele and Torbern Bergman suggested that it might be possible to obtain a new metal by reducing this acid.[36] In 1783, José and Fausto Elhuyar found an acid made from wolframite that was identical to tungstic acid. Later that year, at the Royal Basque Society in the town of Bergara, Spain, the brothers succeeded in isolating tungsten by reduction of this acid with charcoal, and they are credited with the discovery of the element (they called it "wolfram" or "volfram"
Little late to the show here, but the drill bit demonstration showing the "wobble" inherent in long skinny bits especially mounted in a chuck is the reason that I set up our work mill/drill (a pretty standard ~50" manual knee mill) with a very complete ER collet system (and R8 collet system). A complete set of ER collets (metric/SAE) with full overlap in clamping range eliminates the need for a chuck all-together. Didn't even put a chuck in the toolkit for the mill. We hold all drillbits in a collet on this machine. In a DA collet, you can clamp right down over the flutes of the bit and really get things very rigid even with tiny bits.
Thanks for that. It so just happens to be that I have to drill a bunch of holes next few days. Now I have a fee tricks up my sleeve to make my work a lot easier.
Half an hour on drilling, I was really weighing the value there. Glad I watched though. You answered a bunch of questions I had and quite entertaining too! Thanks.
When I have to use a big diameter drill for a hole (except thin plates), I "pre-drill" the hole with a smaller diameter drill bit. Making an undersized hole gives the bigger drill a centering guide and it won't wobble all over the place. Also, the bigger drill bit won't get nearly as hot as it would be otherwise....the material in the center would already be removed. It'll also be somewhat more round, as the big drill won't wobble around before it has made a hole to guide itself. As an example: I need to drill a Ø18 mm hole in a 10 mm mild steel thing. I simply pre-drill with a 8 mm drill and the 18 mm, would have no problem chewing through the material....provided it's not a dull as fuck drill.
Ah the famous atlas strap after installing a few 19ltr engines I’ve gotten my hands on a hand full of them use them everyday now even one as a belt haha
i used to work for viking drill and tool, good company. best drill you can get for the home gamer or a maintenance box. they are a wholesaler of round hss cutting tools. the black norseman and round viking index are the same in every way except the 3 flat(m-1 m-2 m-7) and the gray index has a different heat process but still made at the same manufacture ( i think the are m-7 and m-35). im pretty sure the only drill not made by viking is the walter index. step drill, left hand also viking. the "gold coating" is just a controlled oxidation... not sure if that tiN coated one is from viking the didnt do those in house. most m-42 cobalt drill will have in i.d. ring on the shank end.
Hey AvE, correct me if I’m wrong, but from what I’ve been told about metal drilling is often slower is better, to an extent at least. Now, building off of that logic, I was curious if using a mud mixer of something similar to it, may work, or even work better than some standard drills?
Oh my God, the ammount of tips and tricks this video teaches you... The moment you saw these, they are so obvious that's stupid you didn't do those before
Dude I digging your show. Knowledgeable, fukn hilarious, in a good way and it’s real . Thanx man. Don’t stop with the language. It’s about time someone didn’t sound like a fukin robot! Great show 🤘🏼
Thank you for sharing the bit manufacturers. I've had one of those indexed sets forever and never knew who made it. I'm sure i could've done some googling but it always slipped my mind to try to find them.
The triangle effect is a result of the number of flutes. 2 flutes wobbles in a triangle. 3 flutes wobbles in a square. There's actually special tools that make use of this phenomenon for drilling square holes. It's hard to explain in a comment, but if you look up a video of such a tool you'll see the geometry at play causing this effect.
McMaster has some TiALN purple colored bits that have been great. I like the indexed shank as it doesn't wear off the size markings. Have some shopping to do now, thanks for the vid.
and here I am watching this after using a stepper bit to drill out a stubborn stuck rear shock bolt on the knuckle while changing that shock. Nothing was getting it out, no heat, not lube, nothing. It was the final bit that made the perfect sized hole. Although, as you say, when not piloted, that tip can get chowdered up real easy. That's what happened when I first used them and was like "fuck, well, those are screwed now". Not really, they came in handy AFTER the bolt was drilled out/thru. Then they were the saving grace, when I had dulled and broken damned near every other bit I own (cause they were cheap bits). I thought "well, the rest of the stepper bit is fine, it's just that chowdered end, but they should work now, I don't need the end, I need to make the hole bigger and that part is still brand new, ces't la vie! Thank's Mastercraft stepper bits, at least you Canadian Tire fucks, can do something right, lol, unlike your shitty Allen wrenches, which my old Craftsman's still beat and are still going decades later and I stripped your crappy lifetime warranty ones within a day. Tough little set that Craftsman is (old Craftsman, when they made really good stuff).
