Great video. I'd recommend adding a shutoff valve (one-quarter turn ball valve), between the new tee on the auxiliary storage tank, and the (orange) lead line. Then you can close the new valve when you detatch the lead line from the compressor to hold the air in the auxiliary storage tank (actually holds the air in both tank systems) allowing you to retain its functionality as a pressurized portable tank. Plus this eliminates "wasting" the stored air pressure and reduces the time the compressor needs to run to pressurize the system thenext time you attach the auxiliary storage tank (if htere is pressure remaining there). Or, alternately, install a coupler on the new tee on the auxiliary storage tank, and another plug on the end of the (orange) lead line. This means the (orange) lead line will have a plug at each end. Then to disconnect the auxiliary storage tank from the compressor, first back off the regulator valve to 0 PSI, then disconnect the (orange) lead line from the new coupler on the auxiliary storage tank. Again, you'll now be able to use the auxiliary storage tank as a pressurized portable tank. Finally, for safety sake, I'd consider finding a way to reinstall the pressure relief valve on the auxiliary storage tank. Either add a second tee to add another port/fitting for the relief valve, or use a 4-port ("x" or "cross") fitting instead of the tee, to start with. This would add a margin of safety in case the auxiliary storage tank was exposed to (extreme) heat, which might cause the pressure to rise above the tank rating.
To correct one thing you said in the video: "The equalized tank pressure between both tanks of the Husky, as well as that auxiliary tank, have an equalized pressure of 125 PSI." That's incorrect. The tanks attached to the Husky are at 125 PSI, however the auxiliary tank, since it's on the OUTPUT side of the compressor, is limited to the pressure set by the output regulator. In this case, the auxiliary tank will be at about 90 PSI. Because of that, the auxiliary tank works more as a buffer tank than it does as a storage tank - it can give bursts of air for tools that use a lot (impact gun is a perfect example), but because the auxiliary tank is regulated by the output (and at the same PSI level as the tool you're using), the tanks on the Husky will drain every bit as quickly as they did before the mod in order to refill the auxiliary tank. In order for the auxiliary tank to help the other two tanks, it does need to be on the unregulated side sitting at 125 PSI. There's two easy ways to fix this: 1. Set the output regulator to maximum, and add a secondary regulator on the auxiliary tank with an output gauge. 2. Remove the drain plug from the Husky tank, thread in a fitting, and add the auxiliary tank connection straight to the Husky tanks. Option number 1 is a bit more expensive, but doesn't have the water issues that option number 2 has (the water from the Husky will be pushed into the auxiliary tank and need to be drained).
Yes, I agree......I normally leave the regulator fully open on these small tanks due to pressure drops......so I mis-spoke. You are correct.....the aux tank has the same pressure as the regulated pressure.
either way it did work well,, but i do agree with you there, i am thinking on doing more of what you said to do though with my 10Gal compressor adding a 10 gal extra tank to double my tank capacity for plasma cutting.
Sorry if this has already been commented on but it is pretty important. You have to install a one way valve between the quick connector and the extra tank. There is a high hazard scenario where a quick connector could be inadvertantly disconnected allowing the total volume of the extra tank to rapidly vent through the unckecked male connector. Alternately, a double action quick connector could replace the standard quick connector. Ideally the quick connector should be changed out for a thread connection system such as NPT or BSP. Hope this helps
Years ago I made a T like this but with 2 male and one female connectors so that we could connect any two people's compressors together to run the whole job site off of what we independent contractors normally carried. This is also a great reason to collect old compressors, those tanks are valuable. You've got a very nice mic there, no more changing volume/tone.
So, I did this years ago when painting my pickup. I use one of those Porter Cable 6gal pancakes evdry year. One year, I saved the broken one year, and made an auc tank. What I found is yes, you get twice the capacity, but it takes twice as long to fill. Not good when painting a pickup. I ended up firing up my wheel barrow Emglow, with 5hp Honda. With that the tank will fill while I am painting. What you need is a larger pump. The compressor gets super hot running super longrunning so much longer, and using constant for painting, or impact steady.that is what I found anyway
Great idea! I bought that same compressor a while back based on your review while I don't intend on using it for automotive use too often it's good to know that I can throw an impact on it to remove the occasional nut or bolt.
Wow you made this so easy to follow along with. Straight and to the point . Probably the best video on RU-vid for this application. Every other video that I seen the person babbles on about useless irrelevant information other than what I am trying to accomplish and don’t make it easy to follow along. Thank you for not babbling.
In addition to storage capacity, I think this also showed another important point: Airflow. While the Huskey compressor has pressure, it doesn't flow the air well due to the fittings, lines or regulator being restrictive. The auxiliary tank with the way it was set up flows a lot more air, which you can see with the impact being much more powerful, and the fact that after using the tool it took a few seconds to refill the auxiliary tank. Nice work!
This is the 1st time you tube pops up your video on my feed. Great video, and with all the positive feedback from the comments I can't wait to check out more videos. I'm hoping you still make them
Thank you. And until I acquire my compressor. I had to break lose the crankshaft bolt on my Dodge 5.2 I simply used my 1/2 inch breaker bar and the starter as it provided enough torque. I also use an electric 1/2 impact wrench from Lowe's to break loose and and remove my lugs nuts. In a previous comment below a person mentions the intake side of the compressor is just as important as the down stream side, not forget what you shared about the fittings between the tanks. i.e. flow rate and capacity
I did something like that but I installed a ball valve inline on the auxiliary tank so I could also use it to just fill the tank and use it for smaller projects around the house. You get the benefit of the unrestricted air flow and still have the original portability of the tank.
I did mine much simpler and it is still very effective. I kept my portable tank as originally configured with the safety valve etc and attached a 3/8 hose with a standard1/4 in quick disconnect adapter on the output port. I then plugged a 3-way standard disconnect manifold into the output port of my compressor. I connected the portable tank to one of the 3-way ports and my tools to the other two ports. Major difference in tool power and reduced compressor motor running time. I run impact guns, ratchets, and grinders etc with no problem now. Maybe the small output hole on the portable tank is reducing my power slightly, but not enough of a problem to notice. I have a total of 15 gallons now and can still easily transport my tank to fill tires etc by simply connecting a valve stem adapter to the quick disconnect. As a note, in its original configuration, air can flow both ways on these tanks, meaning you can fill it and pull air from the same port and hose. So basically many ways to skin a cat and get the same or similar results.
this guy's got the best tool reviews on RU-vid. hands down. he explains everything to a T. if I'm looking for a new tool I make sure and watch his review. he is like the Hickok45 of the tool world
So a few things. Shouldn't you have the regulator at the end of the supplemental tank? Otherwise your receiving the 125 psi to the tool as that is the static pressure of the line coming out of the supplemental tank. This would be the reason as to why the lug nuts were removed so easily on the second test. Wouldn't it be more appropriate to use the other output from the primary compressor as this is controlled via the regulator?
Removing the regular entirely would be best, there is not enough volume to keep the tool running at a working pressure for a long period of time. Removal or the regular allows for peak pressure for longer and less resistance to flow and would make things a lot easier.
Just wanted to say THANK YOU for making this video. I used your technique to double my system capacity from 10 to 20 pounds for blowing out the sprinklers. Worked fantastic! I’ve probably watched all your videos over the years and learned a lot. Thanks!!!
This is great especially since the pump on my 15 gal just pooped out. I got a new 3hp Makita big bore but now my 4gal briggs and stratton can be useful too. Thank you.
BRO! I was about to return my compressor and spend $300 more to get a compressor to run my palm sander for diy auto paint repair. Genius idea. Thank you!!!!
I’m so glad I saw this. Was about to go drop a couple hundred bucks on an air compressor id use once every other month to use my impact. Now I can go spend $60 and get by with the impact a lot better and also have air to keep in the bed of my truck in case my tires get low. Thanks!
Took your idea and applied it to a Porter Cable 6 gallon pancake tank. The Porter Cable compressor had its days so I’ve removed the compressor and all the valves, gages. Plugged the hole were the gages and regulator was installed with a quick disconnect that was on the gage setup. Now all I need to do is purchase the “T” since I have all other parts you used in this video. Thanks I needed to give my 21 gallon compressor more capacity for air tools I’m using.
Secondary tank pressure will be the same as the regulated air pressure coming out of the Husky. Not the 125 PSI of the Husky's air tanks. Check valve and ball valve should be in place on the secondary tank.
@@EricDalgetty On my Rolair VT25BIG both those connections are regulated. If this is the same the OP is correct and RTR misspoke, or rather left out the part to open the regulator all the way. Great video though as mine is 6 gallons and I would definitely like to expand it's capacity.
Nice video. This is the first of yours that I have seen. You have a really good voice and delivery for this type of informational and help video. I'll be looking forward to seeing what else you've done.
I did this project myself but added a quick release on both sides of the t fitting so I can disconnect it and move it to the back yard and hook it up to the small compressor in my shed when working out there and not loose any of the stored air in the process. Thanks for the great Idea.
Great, thorough video thanks! Is it possible to upgrade this type of air compressor to get more psi? Also, what's better oil-less or regular... I don't really even know the difference! Thanks!
Really great video. Good instructions. I've been think about this ever since I picked up an air tank. Where did you get the air lead hose? All I've been able to find have 3/8 inch fittings on both ends or am I missing something in my amateur ignorance. Thanks for your time and effort making this video.
I've actually thought about doing this! I have that compressor, and love it, but the capacity could use some improvement. This would very much fix that problem. Thanks, and great idea!
you can also use this method to run large capacity tools like a 3/4 impact and get full power out of it, have a second tank that is 20-40 gallon, inlet size doesn't matter (make it same as compressor tank outlet), once filled, you can run a 1/2" air line out of a 1/2" or larger outlet on the tank itself and get that massive flow you need to run a large tool without buying a giant compressor that will cost 2k+ itself to get that high cfm. the only catch is that your small compressor will be working to fill the larger up, but this should only be for when you need that super high power for a few fasteners like crankbolts and such. the difference between 1/4" line and 1/2" line on a large impact is night and day.
It's good if you have the patience for the longer charge times, but as mentioned at the end, it's not a substitute for a larger compressor, because it doubles the wait time for charging. 5:43 Attaching a 60 gallon tank to it would allow you to do all four wheels at a time, as long as you can have breakfast while charging it up initially.
i found this out the hard way a few weeks ago with a 8 gallon air compressor and a 20 gallon tank.. it sucked... but i'm gonna try it again with a 20 gallon air compressor and a 25-30 gallon tank this week
Don't forget to double the expected run times for the compressor to fill both tanks. The idea works fine for someone who takes frequent breaks. This allows the small compressor time to fill the tanks between breaks.
I do this slightly differently. Put a manifold with universal couplers off one side of the T fitting on the auxiliary tank This gives you the option to run multiple small tools without swapping your air hose every time you change tools (not always a need but handy). Take a pair of NPT fittings and join them together so that you can link the air hose off of your supply tank/compressor into the auxiliary/portable tank for fast filling. Off the other side of the T-fitting, a pressure gauge with the standard schrader valve so you can still fill it with an air chuck while you're "out in the world". Tip: Always use universal couplers on your hoses so you can connect up to whatever fitting is on the tool you're going to use (Industrial, Automotive, or ARO). I also prefer brass since it usually connects/releases easier.. I keep a short hose with an air chuck and the male-to-male coupler I mentioned with the portable tank at all times.
Good simple idea to expand capacity. But did anyone mention how good your video is? Great quality and production. Thanks for taking the time to make a video that is easy to watch and listen to. I'll have to check out more of them!
@Finky198 is there a recommended size system for diy stuff as in do car things too, at moment looking at a 14 litre compressor but as it gives great air compression speed at 55db (aiming to try to keep things below 70db where I am)
This is a pretty neat idea and something I've been wanting to do with an old 6 gallon portable air compressor that has a bad check valve. The only thing I would caution people of is to check the duty cycle rating on their compressor. California Air Tools doesn't list one but say not to operate their compressors for more than an hour continuously. If you are using a small portable compressor with a large air tank and using air hungry tools it may be possible to overheat the motor on your compressor so just use some judgement when you try out this trick.
Good idea as i have done it in my house adding 3 11 gallon tanks but I also have 2 compressors with 21 and 26 gallon tanks. Adding tanks can be useful but remember you are running the compressor longer to air up all the extra tanks you add which will shorten the life of your compressor.
I have the same setup with a 7 gallon air pig, but I put a quick connector on the hose end of my pig which left me with a fully usable tank. That way the pig is still good for filling tires and running a brad or pin nailer, and I don't have to empty it when I disconnect it from the compressor tanks.
I did something similar using a Husky 10 gallon aux tank to connect to my 25 gallon super old and cheap compressor which is barely hanging on. I installed a 4-way T so I could have a ball valve with male connector on one end, 10 foot hose with female coupler on the other and a pressure gauge in the middle. This way, I can open the ball valve, connect it to my compressor and fill it up, then close the ball valve and take the tank to another location to fill up tires, or even run a tool for a little while on the stored pressure. Or, I could leave the valve open and use it in series like shown in the video. I just have to be careful not to bump that ball valve open while it's disconnected unless I want a quick burst of air.
I added a ten gallon auxiliary tank to my six gallon compressor. It works just like he says it does. When I plumbed the secondary tank I did add a ball valve to take the tank and add air to tires if I need to. I also used a four way connector instead of T connector for a pressure gauge.
You should consider a ball valve right where your auxiliary tank's hose connects to the main tank so that you don't inadvertently unplug the hose, creating a dangerous volume of pressurized air.
Wow, thank you for pointing this out! I hadn't thought of this but there could be a possibility of someone disconnecting the auxiliary hose and causing it to become a flailing wip and might also cause the tank to become a missile.
like this? www.cafr.ebay.ca/itm/Mini-Brass-Ball-Valve-1-2-3-8-1-4-1-8-Male-Female-Thread-Air-Compressor-Hose-/232098144696?var=&hash=item360a20a1b8:m:myM8Zeu5Z9h31ed6uOQw5oQ should I had also this, thanks? www.cafr.ebay.ca/itm/401025411874?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
How would having a ball valve help this situation? Even with a ball valve you can accidentally/inadvertently unplug a hose with the valve open. A ball valve just gives the option of disconnecting the aux tank.
The auxiliary tank will never exceed regulated pressure as you hooked it up. You need to tap into the tank before the regulator. A good option would be to tap into the drain plug but that wold send all condensation to the auxiliary tank with the air. this may seem like a moot point but if you were say painting at 40 psi it would greatly reduce available capacity.
OK I love this concept I have a 26 gallon unit. I wanted to be able to do paint and body work. I didn't have a lot of money, so I waited for someone to throw out a water heater and now I have a 60 gallon water heater tank attached I have the top electrode hole as the intake and the bottom as an out, had I seen this video I would have plugged them both and used this type of set up in the top. I may change it after seeing this. I have considered adding a refrigerator compressor also as an added air pump.
Wouldn't you lose the ability to set your tool pressure? I think to do this right you really need a few more fittings: A check valve to allow you to use the tank as a portable tank/remove and not blow air everywhere, a safety blow off, and a pressure regulator. This would allow you to regulate tool pressure properly, plus adding some safety all around.
I have a 10 gal portable, guess what I'm doing this weekend.... Tks man..... I have a 3.5 gal 4hp pancake craftsman level 4 compressor this will greatly improve my mobile business of small engine repair.
cus i did it with a pitsburg pro torque wrench and a tire iron but did learn the tire iron is bairly small enough to get bolts off so i need a breaker bar 20 or less one with the impact socket i got for the torque for less then 5 bucks for the socket and with coupon got the torque for less than 20 so yea i'm saving alot of money
Great video. I am now subs. Was struggling for more CFM to use my sandblaster effectively. Lots of Mon. morn QBs in the comments which can be used to my benefit if I choose. Thanks QBs.
I don't know. I just bought a simple sandblaster from Menard's and started working with it. My compressor is a Montgomery Ward's model from the 70's and I have no idea how many cfm it produces.
Excellent, clearly presented tutorial. We especially like your clear narrator's voice, exceptional audio level and good camera angle on all the shots. Your end-summary was helpful, especially the point about when to consider buying a bigger compressor vs. expanding the tank capacity of a smaller system. Please comment-- if the compressor doesn't have to work too hard, does it make sense to retrofit a smaller compressor to a 35-gallon tank, or even larger (for painting)?
Thanks! And personally I wouldn’t suggest it. The expansion tank idea is more so for temporary needs vs continual use. If you need more air supply on a regular basis, I’d simply buy a bigger compressor.
When using over 25 feet of hose it is recommended (based on volume and working psi of a tool) that an extension hose be a size larger than the suggested diameter hose for the tool. E.g. to meet the demands of a tool that requires a 3/8 hose would have 25 feet of 1/2 inch then the 25 feet of 3/8 hose to reach 50 feet and maintain maximum efficiency. This also acts to expand the overall volume of the system as well as supplying sufficient air to operate the tool. A lot of efficiency is lost with improper hose volumes and it will take more air regardless because of lack of pressure delivery. In short, the air flow by volume of a 50 foot hose is much less than a 25/25 of (1/2)/(3/8) respectively.
Thanks for the video. I now have a weekend project to do. I have one question though, what was that impact wrench you were using to take the wheel off, I really like that compact size.
You should review high flow air fittings and their effect on torque of impacts. Maybe let us know what brand high flow fittings are best in another video. Also, check out Stedlin quiet plugs if you hate disconnecting air hoses and getting blasted with high pressure air and having the hose shoot off. Made in USA too!
agree with Eddieallen add a check valve to the hose end of the T. Also the tank pressure should not be 125, it should be your hose pressure of 100 as it is connected after the regulator.
adjust cut in and cut off pressure at the on of switch, also change the safety valve to the higher one, it can more efficiency without need a auxiliary tank, keep the tank pressure and compressor kick on around 100 psi
Well done and thanks for the demo. I'd try this but that T looks vulnerable the way it is loaded in shear. With my luck the tank would tip over and that T would crack off and bust me in the chops Maybe a long zip tie to provide at least some strain relief and control how far the hose (with the T fragment still attached) could fly? I did check the pressure rating for similar fittings and was surprised to see it at 1200 PSI? Sounds like an awful lot - there are forged brass and cast brass ones so don't know which one that is. I have heard from the grapevine that since California outlawed lead content in brass plumbing fittings guys are finding the new lead-free ones are much more brittle.
When I use a Hvlp paint gun, I hook up my 2 gal compressor, 5 gal portable, 30 gal compressor, 29 gal compressor all together. I can keep using air without losing pressure. All three units work together to keep pressure above 90 psi at all times at the dryer. All my compressors are regulated down to 120 psi.
Excellent Video. But bear in mind that the electric motors and compressor have a limited run time. Usually 15 minutes max! then they must be rested for a time..
I've got pretty much the same setup but a Mac tools impact and I can remove 5 lug nuts without using the auxiliary tank at all. Just saying that a more efficient tool is a plus. Good video tho none the less, keep up the good test videos
