Air Door Actuator Replacement: 1994 Chevy Cheyenne C1500 

📍 Air door actuator locations for 1988-94 Chevy/GMC trucks: heater mode selector, heater blend door, and air inlet. Struggling with a faulty actuator? My blog post is the ultimate guide to help you diagnose & repair! 💪🔧 #GMC #TruckRepair 🔗 www.buildpriceoption.com/air-door-actuator-locations-1988-94-chevy-and-gmc-truck/

Love how you even went out of your way to give extra detail cause no one does that anymore.. appreciate the video just fixed mine!

I used a 4 1/2” angle grinder to cut an approximately 1 1/2” wide x 3” high opening in the firewall in the engine compartment after taking a bunch of measurements as to where I needed the hole. I didn’t cut the side closest to the center of the vehicle just used it like a hinge. Then bent the little panel open and removed the screw. To close it up I hammered the flap shut and neatly applied a two pieces of silver aluminum tape. Works good, looks ok. This is a 30 year old work truck so no one will be taking pictures of my art work at a car show…

If you cut the slot where the screw goes on the very end, you can start the screw first then slide the actuator into place, then tighten the screws afterwards.

The trick is, take the entire dash out of the truck, then replace the screw.

After all that work, it would drive me crazy not to have that last screw installed! Come on Frank! Be a hero and get it done. I saw a video and the guy taped the screw to a socket and got it started with his fingers. Then used that 1/4 inch ratchet with the flexible end. Great video and information.

Put the screw through the hole . Slip a small o-ring on the backside holding it in place .Put your actuator in place then tighten the screw. This trick works on various applications. I keep all sizes of o-rings in my toolbox for this very reason . Hope this helps .

Every issue I've ever ran into with my 91 Chevy Cheyenne 2500 you have had to deal with as well and when I'm lost on what or how to fix it so I highly appreciate you making all the videos u make .... Thank you so much

Thanks for this, I watched your video and did mine. Instead of the top screw, I shoved a zip tie through the hole and wrapped the other end of it up in the frame around the relays just so it serves as an anchor point.

Had this issue for about 15 years. Just had my ac fixed so i decided it was time to do this to get the full AC experience. Thanks for the extra detailed video.

That's a clean truck. Great to see it.

Thank you for this video. I’ve put this off for about 3 years now because I can’t figure it out and I am scared of getting it out and not being able to put the new one in. I’m also too afraid of taking apart my 26 year old dash because I know I’ll never get it out in one piece. I think I’ll attempt this now. Thanks again Frank

So happy to have this issue resolved. On to the next one!

Nice job! You are very articulate and detailed - which is needed when we attempt the same job.

Thank you for taking the time and extra effort to share your process in replacing this component. Certainly, it helps folks to know what they are up against and promotes DIY confidence . Very helpful, very informative! Brad R, Vancouver, Wa, USA

The actuator near gas pedal controls vent, Defrost, Floor= [MODE ACTUATOR] The center actuator , is the BLEND DOOR actuator that controls hot or cold . THE ACTUATOR by passenger's feet controlS Vent or recirculation ONLY

You have been very helpful. Headed to part store, to order my new actuater..... Your down to earth, personalty is refreshing. In a couple of days, I'm going to try my luck.. thank you

All three have an alignment pin and two screws. That is what I found on my 96+ OBS trucks. BTW, great video.

Pro tip: use a long flat blade screw driver and pry against back of 1/4” ratchet. It keeps enough pressure to back out screw the whole way and keep socket spinning as it gets loose.

Dude love the reality of the video extremely helpful and down to earth normal person going through the same pain whoever else is changing out the part that needs the video. Thanks for being real

After watching the fight you had, I couldn’t even get a socket on the back screw. So I removed the first screw & took a large screwdriver under the actuator lifting up and the actuator popped right off leaving the small piece of plastic under the second screw. I’m not suggesting any one else try this but took 15 seconds for me.

That screw is the devil !!! I did the same thing cc did and broke it off then i did the same thing you did and put one screw in. Works good now . Thanks for the info .

Thanks my 94 suburban doing the same thing your a life saver

They truly are a PIA! I believe 1 of them is different than the other two. I went to the yard to get mine. Pretest them before putting in.

Just pull the whole dash so you can replace all three actuators and the blender doors and heater core and evap core. Worth it. Cuss once cry once

I wonder if car engineers look at videos at this and snicker at our frustration. Good video, gonna buy one and attempt to get my oven mit hands scraped up this weekend. Thank you!!!

Thank you so much for this you made my job very easy! I had the same one fail in my truck but it had enough free wire to take out the bottom. I also left the back screw off and mine is working fine.👍🏽

Definitely more informative than any other video I’ve seen yet. Gives me more of an idea of what imma get myself into trying to replace it 🥶

2:49 And this goes from the best video for me, to the best video for explaining how to make tutorials, just like that.

Damn dude you save me a giant headache with this video dealt with my gfs gmc clicking for like 9 months thank you for your great video

94 MODEL CHEVY GLOVE BOX CAME WITH ROLLING TRAY AND 2 BEER HOLDERS

7mm screws, not 9/32. I worked 3 friggin hours on that top screw-never did get it til i took my big screw driver and pried it off, breaking it. That 1 bottom screw is all you need anyways because mine now works great!

You probably all ready got it but it take less then 5min. You need a 8-12in 1/4in with a 9/32 socket 🔧 and 8in long needle nose. So reach up and set the screw push it tight in the hole with your finger tips while your siting out side your door use your left hand to hold the wrench u will feel it sit on the nut test the your set while moveing the wrench side to side up and down to no your seated then slightly pushing it in then with your right hand and finger tips slide it up tords the back and grab the socket the u use your right hand to squeeze while slightly pushing it in then at the same time start with your fingers start wratcheting the wrench it may take a few times to get it started but after that it will go right in just snug it down and your done pretty easy. If u need any more info soot me a message. Hope this helps

Thank you for this. Mine was draining my battery cause it stayed on after the truck was turned on. Thank you so dang much..

Use longer screw with washers where screw sticks out enough to get socket on it

This is still easier than a Crown Vic blend door actuator. Thanks for the detailed video, it's greatly appreciated. I'll be using some chewing gum to keep the second bolt in the socket (unless I find something to magnetize it).

You saved my butt with this video. Was able to do it easily after watching. Thanks so much!

Thank you. I have to do the same one. I appreciate how through you were

Thanks, just bought my first truck a 1994 GMC Sierra SL 2500. Got the same problem, previous owner didn't know what the noise was either.

Thanks brother, I'm about to replace this actuator and the fan motor at the same time. I'm feeling pretty confident now after a few videos 😎

My 02c when you are ready to insert the actuator, put all 3 screws in the actuator. Easiest way to explain how to retain them in the actuator is to explain where I got my idea. Look at an electrical wall plug. There are two screws attached to the plug that have a thin piece of plastic on them. They secure the plug to the plug box. I took 3 of those off some old plugs and put the screws through the actuator and secured them with these thin pieces of plastic. When you put the actuator in, and you have all 3 screws lined up. The two the author of this article got to are done first. The hard to reach one has to be literally pinched as hard as possible with the plastic because you do not want to "ratchet back" and have the screw go with the ratchet. So make sure the third screw is really jammed with the plastic. I broke 3 pieces of plastic from electrical plugs before I was able to get one that would hold the screw on the 2-3 clicks you get out of the ratchet. Then, hold your breath and tighten.

another thing to help keep the screw there is that black windshield putty.. good sticky stuff and hold well if you just place a dap in the socket then add the screw in. Great job on the vid! thanks!

We have our dash out bc we are replacing it and it was still a pain to get to. We got it out w a very small wrench- me turning from the top and my husband pushing on it from underneath. To get that top screw back in we had to move the computer out of the way. I used my nails to get it in place and turn it just enough to get it started. And then again he held pressure on the wrench from underneath while I turned from the top. I was the one saying just cut the wire the whole time though. Took us about 2 hours from start to finish with a lot of breaks for frustration.

Great video. One of the most helpful I’ve seen for this truck. Thanks

I like this video. Very entertaining. You have a good way of getting point across with some humor I thought

Came here for the flap tip. I couldn't get it line up. Thanks!

Mannnnnn thank you. My truck just doing this. I appreciate you brother

Thanks! This is an extremely good instructional video. Saved me a ton of time.

Did the same my 1500 10 years ago and I didn't put the top screw in. Never had a problem.

The screw you are having trouble with Get about a 1 foot long piece of a vacuum line big enough that the screw head will fit in it tightly and start the screw. The vacuum line is flexible enough. Try it it will work an old mechanic trick.

this is uncle dig try securing screw in start position with silicone prior to replacing actuator good luck video very helpful

5.5 mm socket with swivel and cordless ratchet , flashlight and mirror may help. There's just enough room to pull it up through the glovebox to disconnect it! God I love workin on them dusty old trucks!

Wow that's a tough repair! On my 99 Tahoe I just made sure that the blend door was closed and removed the power plug from the actuator so I'm always on recirculate which is just fine since I live in Florida and never turned the recirculate off to let the outside air in.

Super good job, very detailed. I will try my 1995 Silverado soon.

I used the tire iron that is under the back seat and pried it out after removing The front bolt. It was then easy to remove the upper bolt.

I’m going to remove the plenum and replace the heater core, evaporator and all three actuators and be done with it. She has been good to me for almost 500,000 miles.

I will have to do this before it gets cold. this video helps.

Good job explaining this. Very detailed. Thanks

I've done so many of these door actuators on Chevy impalas...that...1. i just buy the plastic replacement gear that strips out and rebuild them myself...2. i install them with one or two screws...never all three screws. one screw will hold them in, but two is best.

Appreciate this Brother!

30 year old truck so I just popped the top bolt. Now I don't have to worry anymore. It's old and brittle. Also replaced to blower motor as it sounded like the brakes were engaged

Now i can go fix my own!

i just unplugged the bad one and said the hell with it. no more noise.

Thank you. I just replaced mine thanks to this video.

A part number would be great. Great video only one who actually helped!

Why is it always that actuator that fails? When I did mine I couldn't get to the tough screw. It needs two screws or it gets jacked up when it tries to operate. I'm not proud of how I made it work but after 5 years it still works. I stuffed a tennis ball up in there and it holds the actuator in place fine. A couple of years later I found a tool that would work perfect in that spot. It's called a Tite Reach. They have them in 1/4" and 3/8ths. I bought the 1/4" version with the intention of replacing thst screw but the tennis ball is doing just fine. I have used the Tite Reach several times with several projects.

You are right brother.. pain in the ass I'm doing mine right now 😂👍

Great Video - I would have used electric tape to hold the screw in the socket - and A LOT OF PATIENTS TO GET IT IN THE HOLE. - I do have a small camera kit - installed on a flexible tube - it has a light and I could see the alignment of screw to the hole. LAST SCREW IS VERY TOUGH !!

Well luckily this hasn't happened to me but I'll keep this in mind if it ever does thanks for the video!

Mine began clicking about 15 years ago. I just unplugged it. I've put off changing it because it looked like it would be a hassle getting to that one screw. In the summer time I'll plug it back up, get the recirc door open so I can have max AC, and then unplug it again. In the winter time I'll have to plug it back up to close the recirc door otherwise it just recirculates the humidity in the cab which kills the effectiveness of the defroster. Maybe I'll go ahead and finally tackle the job, but I'm not looking forward to it. Maybe my bore scope will help get a good look in that tight place. Those things are as handy as a two pocket shirt.

couldn't get the last screw either. So now I got a rope attached to the flap door that runs up to a pully the attaches to a choke switch on the glove box, now when my girl wants that cool recirculating AC she can just pull on that rope.

Man, I have spent HOURS researching this exact same problem on my 1994 Chevy 1500 and your video is by far THE BEST. I am very disappointed you couldn't figure out how to put the last bolt in. Two things, you could have disconnected the wiring harness from the bottom using a long screw driver like I did - real simple. Second, your video is 10 minutes too long because you keep repeating yourself, but my friends tell me I am too wordy too - lol... Otherwise THANK YOU for your time for making this video - It has helped me...Now, wish me luck - lol

I really like your detailed videos man. I put a whole new ac system in my 94 when I bought it and it blows semi cool air and weak air flow. Also when setting is on the face it still blows from the defrost and fogs up the windshield on the outside. I removed the blower motor and cleaned that out and cleaned the evaporator which was a job in itself especially in Texas heat. Well it did help with the air flow a bit and it seems a lot colder but it still blows from the defroster and fogs up the windshield. I know the 95 and up has the air flow distributor which you have to drop the dash and steering column and I heard it’s a pita to do. I’m not sure if the 94 and under have those. If not maybe it’s the actuator on the driver side floor board. I’m going to spray it with WD-40 and see if it helps, maybe it’s age it’s just not opening all the way. I hope that’s the case.

Well sonofabirch. Just did my blower motor and heater core, thought the clicking was the blower motor. Time to pull the dash apart again.

I looked at it and decided don’t think I can get to it, I’ve had the thumping for the first 30 seconds after starting car 3 years now, pull the fuse in the summer, after seeing this video I’m going to try again

The water pump, I would've done myself. This is the project you send to the shop.

Glove box gives u so much room man

You are suppose to remove the Computer and computer holding bracket allowing you to get to the the top 9/32 screws to remove it. Then you'll have plenty of room to remove screws and wiring connector.

great video brother, a little wordy, but you explained it all very well, best one i've found. thanks and keep up the great work. i've got a '94 gmc k1500 and now a '93 chevy 1500 with this problem. i appreciate you making the video, unfortunately for all others out there, i have enough trouble fixing these things, i can't imagine making a video as well, thanks again!

good job men

I just pulled the dash on my 94 to replace the evaporator took me 2hrs i was able to pull the passenger side out enough to get the hvac box out i never want to do this again.

Perfect how to video! No way no how getting to it from top, at least on my 93 Silverado.. I was thinking no need to put the top bolt back in if I can get it out about the time you decided not to so yay! I was able to pull the actuator out the bottom and take wires off fyi.

I need to do this for my truck. I wonder if you can swap the original metal socket-like piece with the new actuator's plastic one? As for the back screw, I've also used a tiny drop of crazy glue on the screw head to keep it from falling off. Just a tiny amount is all you need. Thanks for the video!

Exactly the problem I have. Thanks.

I always keep an assortment of diff. lengths and sizes of thin vaccume tubong i usually find one that fits snug on the head of the screw push it to the flange on the screw then whilethere is pressure apply tiny drop of super glue on the hose and let the glue roll to the flange let it cry for a couple min . i was always in a hurry so i would huff and puff to dry it quicker the super glue seemes to aid in this because there isnt much of the screw to grip it with the hose because of that flange if done right then the glue will break off once the rubber changes form or slips off i use this method without super glue on bolts spark plugs pretty much anything hard to reach the bigger the hose the longer it can be but for what your doing id go with a foot of tubing just kinda use one hand to guide and hold position then udse the other to rotate the tubing

Hell yes thank you brother😎🇺🇸👍

Thank you for this.

Good video! I'm going to try taping the screw to the actuator or using dum-dum to hold it to the actuator while installing it. I'll let you know how it goes.

I got mite in with one of those 90 degrees screw drivers. Pain in the bit but it worked

I've super glued the screw into the socket to hold it from falling out.

I would also use a longer screw and some added washers so you can access the head better

I'm currently replacing my dash with in 1993 Sierra K2500. Btw, all youtube videos on taking dash out are bs. You have to disconnect the inside wiring harness from the drivers side firewall, all under steering wheel and pull all electronics out of dash and then disconnect wiring harness passenger side just before it goes through firewall. That harness needs to be on new dash before you put it back in. LABEL, LABEL, LABEL. On this job with the actuator. Great video. I have to fix mine also. It will be easier for me since I took the dash out. F'n hard job. Anyway. Since you were able to get socket on top bolt screw to get it out, instead of taping to socket. Before you wiggle it back into place and tighten easier bottom nut screw. Put the top screw in just so the threads are start to stick out on back side and on that side melt some candle wax in there to hold that screw in place. Then wiggle that actuator back in there. Tighten bottom nut screw, then carefully get that socket on top and tighten it up. The wax won't hurt anything. Sorry for long comment.

Thanks for the video it was very helpful

Very nice interior.

For the unit(Actuator)your working on, if you move the computer from it's bracket you'll have more room to work in, then again I have small hands. Good luck, it can be a pain in the rear door.. :) Lol

Lmao I do this all the time. Leave screws missing 😅😂

beautiful truck

Truck looks good I've got a 91 z71 5.7 5 speed I done frame up rockers can corners and paint my self

All 3 are different; 2, 4, and 5-pin connectors. I believe. After researching applicability at the parts store.

I love this truck