Great tips in this video. I've been airbrushing Future/Pledge for a few years now, mostly as a prep for oil washes and decals and I do dilute it a bit with water, sometimes a50/50 ratio, but I've had a few issues with beading or coat buildup at the bottom of vertical surfaces or the edges of flat ones that I've been able to control without much difficulty or messing up. But after watching your video, I think that diluting future may be precisely the root-cause of this problem. I do it mostly as to shoot a finer, thinner layer of the stuff. I'll start following your advice here, so just wanted to say thanks a lot for making this video. Cheers!
Thanks so much for your kind comment! And thanks for watching and commenting. I hope that adjustment will work for you - I think you may have identified the root of it. Happy day to you!
Jon, glad you mentioned shooting it wet. I can't tell you how many models I built with a gritty "gloss" coat because I listened to all the advice to build up with mist coats. Well I could have put on a hundred mist coats and all I would have ended up with is a half inch thick layer of dull acrylic, which was fine if the model was to ultimately end up with a flat coat, but wasn't cutting it for the glossier schemes. I finally took the plunge and let the flow rip and now I get the sheen I've always wanted - clearly so! I guess the multiple mist coats method works well for some, but I never learned the secret to success. God bless
I know what you mean - early on in my use of Future I had the same problem. But that whole "self-leveling" thing kept coming to mind. And to self level, it needs "self"! 😊 Thanks so much for watching and commenting! Grace and peace be with you.
It's interesting that ya'll are saying this, because in every case where I didn't mist on at least the first coat of Future, it beaded up on me. My best results were sprayed through my Iwata HP-CS (. 02 needle) at 13-15 psi. Once that initial mist coat set up, I could go on heavier.
Clearly so! Love the humor! I have used Future for years too. I mix it some with Car window wash(blue) and I mix it in my final coat on the paint job some times. Chris Cortel told me how to do that long time ago. 6 years and I have not had any yellowing either. There again there not in a corner! 🤣 LLAP 🖖
Clearly so! (LOL!) After watching this I am convinced that all other videos about using Pledge-Future-Clear here on RU-vid should be removed. You've covered it all and in a way that gives confidence that 1) it works; 2) it lasts; 3) it cleans up easily. Just don't thin it!😁
Very good thanks i have have used lacquer based paints, but have been given a lot of acrylic paint so that what you were say was very interesting will give it ago thank Graeme
Nice video and great process. Since Future, has no Future, I've been looking for a cheap replacement. I took a chance on Quick Shine Multi-Surface Floor Finish. It is a white and green bottle. The color is a cloudy clear until it dries crystal clear. I've brushed it onto one of my models and it works great! This model was painted with krylon color shift. The color shift was preserved and it brought the gloss up. I'm trying the airbrush next with your recommendations on cleaning the airbrush.
Hey Jon, just want to let you know I really enjoyed watching this video last night. I watched a few other of your long form "deep thoughts" videos and I really appreciate your honest and thoughtful thoughts on the hobby. When I was younger, I searched for years for a product called "Future", and being in the US, I could never find it. It took me a long time to figure out it was just Pledge floor gloss product. Things are really cryptic sometimes for newer people getting into the hobby. Your long form videos are really helpful in that way I think, as people truly interested in progressing in the hobby will get value from it. You made a comment about how you can lump 95% of the hobby into a large group, but its those 5% that that go above and beyond and look at those details to truly become noteworthy (Maybe not exactly in those words). It's interesting that it might be a similar percentage that are "getting past the 7 minute mark" on some of your longer videos as you stated also later on. I can directly point to your videos on airbrushing that helped me so much at that time to become comfortable and at least proficient at it and move forward to the next challenge. I don't have much of a point except to say thank you for the videos, and I will certainly look forward to more if you choose to make them. Have a great day!
Thank you so much for such a kind, thorough, and encouraging comment! I am truly grateful. I definitely will keep making this type of video. One of the things that is most important to me is to be helpful. And I'm always thankful to see that this type seems to fit that goal nicely. So stay tuned, and thanks again for watching and commenting!
Awesome - I'm so glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the kind words. Once you see what its boundaries are, it can be incredibly useful in so many ways, and speed things along. Happy day to you friend!
I have started using pledge for my top coats for my model cars and I have been happy with the results thus far. I will experiment with different topcoats in the future so that I know what works best for what I am looking for. Clearly so! I appreciate the humor in your videos. I too have returned to the hobby after a 25 year gap. I am not just having fun, I feel like I’m now obsessed with this hobby! Keep it going Jon!
That's the ticket right there - try different things, and decide what works best for different situations. Thank you so much for your kind words, and for sharing part of your journey. It's so fun to pick the hobby back up after being away. So many advances have been made! It can be easy to and fun to go "all in"! Thanks again for watching and commenting, and especially for your kind words! Happy day to you friend. 😊
great video Jon thanks so much for clarifying for me the Gloss application before the decals are done. going out to buy some Pledge i believe it's available here in Ontario, Canada.
Clearly so! :-))) ..hi, thanx for your videos! I like very much ! And Thanx for your time too !!! I'll try "Future" for sure! ciao from Italy !!! take care and keep posting!!! It's very useful!!
Unfortunately they quit making it in Jan. 2022. However, quite a few sources have told me that Holloway House Quick Shine Multi Surface Floor Finish works the same way. I have not tried it though, so I only pass the info along. Thanks for watching and commenting!
If you spray pledge on in two or even three good wet coats,letting it dry 30+ minutes between coats, it will be thick enough to buff to a glassy shine and be much more durable overall.
I am preparing to use Pledge on my P-51, aluminum paint. Thanks for all the great tips for how to use it. I follow ALL of your videos, to the almost total exclusion of others'. You are the BEST.
It's great stuff and your video is excellent. But cheap it certainly is not in Australia! If you can find it (and stocks are getting scarser all the time) here it costs around $28 AU or $18 US for a standard 27 oz bottle (and then one has to add shipping, as it's not sold in supermarkets here).
Yeah, they quit making it in January '22, so it has become "unobtanium". Look for a new video in January for a possible replacement! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@4:35 yeah, regarding thinning, I've found the same thing. I've thinned it with water, and with isopropyl, but found it's not necessary. I apply it lightly enough to cover without getting runs and drips. I want it to be about as thick as if I had applied it by hand, which I do on my toy soldiers. @12:09 Yeah, overnight, for a decal gloss coat or when dipping clear parts. I do put pieces in a container, not to facilitate drying, but to keep dust from landing in it while it dries. When I use it in painting my toy soldiers, I'll wait till I can touch the piece without leaving a fingerprint. I use mostly acrylics now, and I find that some of them rub off with handling. So I'll paint a figure's legs, or the base, for example, then apply Future over that area to seal it as I continue to work on it. Eventually, I'll give the figure a couple of coats when I finish, anyway. I also learned to use Future to make glazes. I mix a drop of water, a drop of Future, and just enough color to tint it. I use this to do some shading on a figure. On a face, for example, after having finished the details, I'll mix a glaze of a darker flesh color and run it into the low areas-under the lower eyelids, under the chin, in the ears, those lines from the corners of your mouth to your nose, etc. When it cures, it looks a little like a piece of ceramic.
Hey Jon! I still use future but have mostly limited my use to enhancing clear parts or simulating lenses. Why? Glad you asked. :) I did an experiment on my channel with Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color (a.k.a. an enamel wash) and various clear gloss overcoats. I found that Future/Pledge built up in the recessed panel lines which in turn displaced the wash. Since then I have been using Tamiya X-22 Clear for my gloss coats. My normal process after color coats is X-22, decals, X-22, weathering, Dullcote. So what? So nothing, we are just passing on our own experiences. As you and I both say, it's your model to do with what you want. If it works it works. There are no wrong answers. Kleerly so! Ciao
I don't think this stuff is going away anytime soon. Not sure that buying a bunch is necessary. I cannot see anything in it that is unsafe, carcinogen or on a reportable list of any kind. It is really quite a safe product to properly use according to the MSDS SHEETS. Maybe less call for it with more tile floors ad fake wood. But yet I would think still enough demand to keep making it.
Excellent video! Jon, you explain it thoroughly and easy to understand. I've watched several of your videos this week and all are extremely helpful. I've been modeling for almost 50 years and have learned tips to do things better than I've been doing.
Hi Jon, I’ve just discovered you re this video, loved it, I’ve subscribed. I’ve been using Klear/Future for a while, but still got some great tips from you. I also watched it to the end 😀👍🏻 Jason 🇬🇧
There was a comment on HyperScale from a modeler who thought his Future was getting cloudy with age, and he said was going to THROW IT OUT!!!! AUGH!!! My Dutchy senses were tingling. I pointed that out as you did - it's an acrylic floor coating. Don't throw it out, use it up on the floors.
Generally what that means is the underlying paint wasn't cured. This can especially be the case if it went over enamels. It does stink when that happens. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I paint fishing lures and am trying to figure out something I can use as a mid coat over mirror chrome so that it doesn’t dull when I epoxy coat. Supposedly Pledge is the preferred product. Gonna try it. One wouldn’t think mirror chrome would be so difficult to obtain but seems to be. At this point Despaie marker refills have given me the best results. Haven’t tried coating it yet with Pledge. Everything else I’ve tried kills the shine. Nice video. I really like your presentation style. No “music”, no endless graphics. Just pleasant presentation of information. Thx
Clearly so! Here in the Philippines, it is colored white, but dries clear. I just love it’s utility, I’ve been using it since I learned about it some time ago.
Clearly so. On the water to clean your airbrush, as long as you do not use water that come from a mud puddle, you should ok. There is a lot of household products that can be used in model build because they are easier to get and cheaper, at 9 pm after the hobby shop has close for the day. I have use Easy Off to remove paint and chrome, green scrub pad,0000 steel wool for sanding, nail polish remover to debonding super glued finger and yes, I have glued a couple of my finger together on one hand, luckily. I learnt using nail polish remove as a locksmith when customers high security locks got super glue squirted into them. It cheaper safer and much quieter than using TNT.
Pledge is getting hard to find and/or expensive ... has anyone ever tried an alternative? Just having a hard time paying $40 for a bottle of polish (although still less expensive than model manufacturer finishes). Just thinking out loud here. An alternative, such as Quick Shine Floor Finish for example?
Yeah, when I did this video it was prior to Pledge going away... 🫤 (They should have consulted modelers! 😂) I have not tried the Quick Shine, but I've seen several videos, and have had a few folks I know tell me of using it, and they reported it works basically like Pledge does/did. (I still have 3 bottles!) Thanks for watching and commenting!
Just found your video - thank you and especially for the alternative now that Future is discontinued! I am down to a very small jar of Future... And man thanks on the advice re cleaning airbrushes with ammonia. I have been using Windex and it has stripped the chrome off my Paasche H color cup. Great video.
UV light will turn ANY clear coat yellow unless formulated to resist UV light. Even that product will yellow but it takes a lot longer. I do outdoor model railroading. UV light breaks down paint & plastics on the molecular level. Why do you need outdoor paint or stain for outdoor furniture or your decking. Wood turns gray because of UV light.
Yes, it works very well for that. I've done so many times. Do consider the weathering steps you'll be applying though, because some steps are better when applied over a satin finish rather than gloss. But it all depends on the final effect you're after. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I have been applying pledge/future on my model cars with a brush for some time now with no problems. Now, I am going to use my air brush to apply it! I have been wondering if future/pledge could be applied with air brush for some time and then I found this video and have found my answer.
I'm glad you found it helpful! I would recommend giving it some test application on "non-production" stuff so you can see how it flows, etc. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Thanks so much for your kind words! I never had much success trying to sand it back. To a certain extent it can be buffed a bit, but it's not very sanding friendly. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Are there any other comparable floor products that you know of for use over acrylic paint? IE mop & glow, Zep etc. I can't seem to find Pledge anywhere in my area other than spray cans of furniture duster.
No, I don't know of any other alternatives unfortunately. Here in the US it's easy to find. Perhaps try some local model clubs or online groups? And if all else fails, acrylic gloss coats made for models certainly will work. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks Steve! It's actually been discontinued and so is very difficult to find. Here's an alternative you can look for - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PVA_E1vd_Yo.html Thanks for watching and commenting!
Yeah, Pledge is no longer being produced. This video I did a while back may help though! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PVA_E1vd_Yo.html Thanks for watching and commenting!
Yes! I often used it as a gloss coats for decals, washes, etc., and then applied a matte coat over it as a final varnish. While I used enamel, lacquer, and acrylic matt varnishes, I felt it best to use acrylics, as they are the least caustic, and unlikely to cause problems. I have some friends who would add Tamiya Flat Base (X-21) to Future to matte it down. I tried that, and it worked with some experimentation to find the correct ratio, but in the end I realized it was still simply an acrylic matte coat, so I went back to my regular matt varnish. (I prefer Vallejo Mecha Color Matt Varnish.) I hope that helps! Thanks for watching and commenting! Jon
I've heard of some folks adding Tamiya Flat to Pledge to make it flat, but I've never done that. I tend to use Vallejo Mecha Color Matte Varnish, or AK Interactive's Matte Varnish. Both are acrylic and work very nicely. HTH! Thanks for watching and commenting!
What are people using instead of Pledge since they don't make it anymore? AND can you use goo gone as a solvent? I just need to get rid of those pesky edges.
Check out this video I uploaded for an alternative to Pledge: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PVA_E1vd_Yo.html I've not used Goo Gone as a solvent, so I don't have any experience with that. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I don't have any experience with those, so I'm not sure what to advise you on. Perhaps check to see if there are any Facebook groups that might be able to better address your question? I do thank you for watching and commenting!
I did, and it works OK. The problem was that it quickly made the paint very translucent, and getting good coverage was difficult. In the end I felt there were better thinners, and that Future was better as an after coat. HTH! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Careful, you might upset those who say you must only use expensive high end modelling specific products when modelling! ;-) Out of all the various clear gloss coats I've tried on my model kits, good old pledge applied with a soft brush actually gives easiest and quickest results!
Yeah, it's a wonderful product. There is definitely some opposition to it, but I don't worry about that. I'm having too much fun. 😁 Thanks for watching and commenting!
I use several. For rattle can application, Mr. Hobby Matt Clear works very well. For airbrush application, I like Vallejo Mecha Color Matt Varnish, or AK Interactive's Matt varnish. Thanks for watching and commenting!
It does work, but I don't recommend it. Over the years, I've seen it cause deterioration to the color cup's coating. In a few cases, users have reported it stripping down to the brass. I think a safer but still quite effective solution is alcohol, or lacquer thinner. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Seeing a most modelers gloss to apply decals and weathering, how should this be treated for washes or pin washes? I know you shouldn’t use say an acrylic pin wash over an acrylic surface because it will reactivate the paint, or enamel over enamel and the thinner you use to clean up the wash would take the paint clear off as well. Should I treat this like an acrylic? Thanks.
It works great for washes that are oil or enamel based, though I'd do a spot application to seal in decals. I used Citadel shades (acrylic) over this frequently, as well as homemade acrylic washes, and some Vallejo washes. None created any problems once the gloss varnish was fully cured. Leaving it overnight should be sufficient. I hope that helps! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I've not tried it over either of those, but in general I don't recommend adding a gloss coat over any shiny metallic finish. It will remain glossy, of course, but it may take away the metallic shine. I'd test it out on a plastic spoon or test model to see how it looked. I hope that helps! Thanks for watching and commenting!
That should be more than sufficient! Tamiya Tool Cleaner is quite powerful. I use some water, then alcohol, and maybe a touch of lacquer thinner. But your solution should do fine. If your airbrush has any internal seals, keep an eye on those. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hello, I used future for a utility coat for applying decals to a spaceship. Do you have a matte varnish that you would recommend for the final topcoat? I was going to get some Vallejo varnish but I've noticed that Vallejo paints crack or shrink up when applied to future. Let me know if you can. Thanks.
For matte varnish, I use either Vallejo Mecha Color Matte Varnish, or Gunze Matte sprays. I generally use the Vallejo product, through my airbrush. I've not had it crack or shrink though - that is odd. Generally when an acrylic product cracks on a surface, whether it is varnish, paint, etc., is often due to underlying layers not being fully cured - enamels, oils, etc. That might be something to check. I hope that helps! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Most clear coats change the properties of the underlying coats in some way. The trick is to account for that before application. Once you have a good idea of what the results will be, it's easier to account for. Thanks for watching and commenting!
man used this through my modeling day future back then if you take a clear say canopy and dip it in the future tilt it so one end is on ab absorbent paper towel i use to use viva towels alleviate the other end let it dry and it comes out looking line real glass
Hello Jon, I followed your guide with great interest. I have now sprayed a model car with Pledge, but I'm not impressed with the satin finish, 2 questions, Can Pledge be polished, and is there a manufacturers clear gloss that can cover the pledge? Stay Safe.
Yeah, it's not ideal as a final clear coat, especially for cars. That's a level of glossiness that requires a specific, purpose made product. It's not buffable to any great degree, certainly not to bring it up to a high gloss finish. It should be fine for applying other gloss coats over, but I'd certainly test it first, and not flood the surface. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching and commenting!
It varies depending on the paint and the desired opacity. Start with a very low ratio... Maybe five parts paint to one part Pledge. It can make paint very transparent very quickly. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Wondering why the comments says clearly so! would try ak gauzy shine enhancer. More foolproof and looks better, especially over metalics. I have some models that are 15 years old without any yellowing. The canopies look a bit off though.
HI Jon, I know that this comes after a quite long time after you put this vid on, but what I lately heard from friends of my local modeling association was something like "beware using Pledge/Clear 'cos people found moulds growing on their models over time!". Now does this sound familiar to you? Have you ever heard anything similar? The perspective is undoubtely scaring😬! I still am not quite convinced about this statement, 'cos usually these products come with biocides in their composition, like isothiazolinones. What can you tell according to your experience? Thanks very much, peace & health to you 🙂
Yeah, I've heard that too. But I've got several models sitting on my shelves from 2006. No mold. :) My guess is the mold might come from the environment around it - not from the clear coat. ;) Sadly, they've quit making it. But if you can get your hands on it, use it with confidence. It hasn't failed me in over 400 models! Thanks for watching and commenting! Happy day to you friend!
@@JonBius I was expecting this reply, and I too think environmental conditions play a distinct role. After all, the air in our houses is far from being pure, spores and bacteria are everywhere, and feed on almost everything! 🙄 A word about the product: the "clear" Pledge seems to be long gone here in Europe, the company sells a milky stuff which apparently was formulated to avoid drinking temptations from children (oh well, but it looks like milk now! Sure they made it right?? 😬😬). Haven't try it myself yet, many say the finish is nevertheless similar to the original formulation... Cheers!
Hey Good stuff! just wondering and not to sound dumb, I have only recently started getting back into modeling. Just wondered if there is a Alt brand other than "Pledge"? like "Quick Shine" or something, or does it have to be pledge? sorry for sounding silly. Keep up the great content! And Thank you.
Thanks! Not a dumb question at all! I just found out (literally... this past weekend) that they quit making Pledge in January 2022! So I have no idea what a good alternate would be. Thankfully I still have several bottles! If I do find something, I will definitely do an update video. Thanks for watching and commenting - happy day to you!
2 Questions sir. I am finishing up on a military helicopter. Is Pledge ok for that? and I question that in regards to the right type of finish. Is gloss finish ok for military models, ones that will be weathered? Or should I use something more matte? Also question 2... is the proper order... paint -> clear coat -> decals -> clear coat -> weathering? Thanks again!
Pledge works nicely on any plastic or resin model. In general, adding the gloss coat after paint and before decals is a good idea. I generally add another clear coat after that, at least to the decals, to seal them in against later weathering steps. As to whether the finish I right for a military helicopter, I'd suggest referring to photos, and see what those show. That can help determine what your final finish is. Thanks for watching and commenting - have a great day!
You may want to re-watch it... there are demonstrations. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uMPWVuAlZiw.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uMPWVuAlZiw.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uMPWVuAlZiw.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uMPWVuAlZiw.html HTH.
I've used a .3, .5, and .7 with it. I think I had the best results with a .5 though. My "go to" psi is 18-20, so that has worked well for me. Thanks for watching and commenting!
