Mother's Plastic headlight restorer works perfectly also. I had Tamiya panel line enhancer and paint seep under the tape on my 1/32nd Hasegawa P-27 bubble top canopy, I made the mistake of using thinner to clean up the mess, left everything behind and a nasty fog. The cleaner compound and a Q-tip, a little rubbing, PERFECTION! Removed everything and left a high gloss finish. Better than out of the box!
It is great marketing how Tamiya first totally messes up a canopy in their very expensive kit and then offers you a handful of also expensive products to fix their own error.
Haha I know right 🤫Must be a conspiracy that they had this all planned out from the start. Mind, the polishes do last forever if you only use them for canopies since you use such a small amount each time. So the price vs. life is actually quite good I guess. A lot to fork out though just for the privilege of being able to get rid of them!
Very nice work my friend and very useful for me as I have just damaged a canopy on the Corsair that I am currently building and hopefully this will help it to look good again. Many thanks for sharing and have fun with your next project, Joe
If you put the compound on the buffing wheel first, it keeps the splatter down a LOT. And it's more effective because you end up using more of the compound.
jakemonster001 That's right it does. I would say it could replace the 'Fine' tube from this system. I have used toothpaste before back on my Red Arrows Hawk. Left it sticky afterwards so I would always recommend the Tamiya Polishing Compounds after using them
Superb! I recently bought a model car and the clear parts had apparently been bouncing around inside the box for so long they got scratched up. I'll be giving this method a try.
It's a good idea to put a piece of blue tak inside the canopy so you don't break the canopy and don't sand too fast or you'll get cracks from too much heat.
Tamiya has good products, but the price per volume purchased is way over priced for what you get. You can get a much larger volume of automotive fine Plexiglas polishing compounds. Then just wax with a hard natural wax like Carnauba automotive paste wax (which buy the way is excellent for your regular car windows). People are paying way to much for their model building/painting supplies. I use to use Tamiya paint thinner, now I just use 30/70 alcohol H2O as a thinner and works great for my acrylic paints and you can make it for pennies. Brand names sell their proprietary thinners for their Lacquers and Enamels when you can buy a can of Lacquer thinner ad the hardware store. Also using cheap acrylic paints from Michael's and thin it with your homemade thinner, Lays down great. Buy more model kits and spend less on over priced brand named hobby products.
BennyCFD I agree a lot of modelling products are over priced. I got these polishing compounds knowing they would last as I would rarely need them for the type & amount of work I do. If I used more of it I would definitely go for a home brew of something else!
It is a good thing your canopy was as big as it is, otherwise when it went flying out of your fingers, you was able to find it, and not lose it to the carpet monster. I am sorry, I laughed at that, but I wasn't laughing at you but with you as you might have said a couple of cuss words when it went flying. Anyways I am going to get myself the Tamiya polish so I can get that darn seam line out of my F15 canopy. Good video, it helps me.
Haha I included this because it was too funny to edit out. The Tamiya polishing compound is expensive, but if you're only polishing canopies with it, it will last for years. I still have these same compounds now with almost a full tub left!
Thank you. A lot of manufacturers do have mould seams along the centre line of canopies. Makes no sense to put them there though I agree, it creates a lot more work for us modellers to remove just for the tool to be simpler...
Hey Mark, thanks very much - good to know my tutorials and videos have good content ☺. To answer your question: if you Google search "Tamiya 2000 & 3000 grit sanding sponge" then you'll get a load of results. The 3M ones I use are the same just from the automotive industry for paintshops but they'll do exactly the same - they just work out cheaper since they come in boxes of disks rather than single like the mentioned Tamiya. Hope this helps. The Inner Nerd
Hi. That’s fantastic thanks for you quick response I shall have a look on google and eBay and even have a look in my local car accessories shops etc. Also looking at a lot of your models on here I think your name Inner Nerd should actually be Inner Excellence. Cheers again mate.
Haha yes it's an engieered problem to lead to another product haha. These compounds can be used to polish up paintwork though on civilian vehicles as you can see me use them here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EPpHP66M1wM.html&lc=UgzvjgPYLla0fE3Lcip4AaABAg So not entirely a solution to a mould problem ;) Thanks for watching :)
Thank you for your tutorial! I'm looking for a Dremel tool suitable for modeling. What particular model do you use? Would you recommend it? Thanks again!
Excellent video. I have a few 1:43 models and their plastic display cases have some minor scratches. Can you tell me please, if I should use only polishing compounds without using sandpaper first? Thank you.
If they are deep scratches I think would need some sand paper starting at 1200 grit and working up to polishing compounds from there. I would try to polish them out first though because the rougher you start, the more work it will be to correct.
Or one could flip the bird at Tamiya's marketing game and say "I'm good with the seam line!" 👍 Nice work nonetheless, but looks like an expensive fix all the same! There have to be less expensive, more broadly-used plastic polishing systems out there that would work here. At least you're given an extra canopy to practice on first.
Very nice job there with the seamline - but fuck those manufacturers who even put a seamline down the center like that - it's not modelling, it's just extra work.
Francisco Erroz Hello and thank you. I'm confident this method will get rid of your problem as the sanding and polishing shown in this video will restore the canopy back to its original condition. Good luck!
I got mine from eBay but I'm not sure of the exact listing. It's a fine cotton buffing wheel so searching this may get you along the right lines. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
Hi. Thanks for the tutorial. Did you wipe off and/or rinse the canopy to completely remove any leftover compound before you used the next compound, or was the next compound applied right after the previous w/o having to wipe off and/or rinse any excess from the previous compound?
LAX5x5 Hi. Glad you liked the video and found it useful! No I didn't rinse off any of the previous compound prior to using the next. There should be no compound left after application to fully utilise each application. Hope this helps
Hi I am in a kinda bad situation. I got glue on my canopy for the kit I am doing and I have tried to sand it out but it got worse and looks milky and scratched. Do you have any tips on how to fix it??
Joseph Rogers If you follow the steps in this video you should be okay. If it's poly cement you may have to run deeper woth the sand papers to remove it properly as the gkue melts into the plastic. The milky/cloudy appearance on the canopy will be caused by not polishing it up or is a too-high grit compounds. If you stick to the grit numbers on the video you should be able to remove that. Good luck!!
For the best results, yes. But the fine is still very fine and could be passable. The three stages are more aimed towards car modellers since the shine after all 3 is flawless if done correctly. For aircraft canopies you could use the course or fine. I would avoid the finish since this isn't really going to do much as the grit is almost a cream. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
I was born with BIG mitts. I CAN NO WAY have the dexterity like this. New way ! Again, you are ELITE at what you do. I don't think something like this can be taught, you have it or you don't.
Niels Ferwerda I dont know where you can get the full set, I could only find the course in most shops in the UK. I ordered these on eBay direct from Japan
Where are you from, Niels? There's at least 3 german online-shops that have the full range of Tamiya polishing compounds, surely some scale modelling shop must be available for you too...
I start with 2000 grit as a first cut. Then move to 3000 on the models. On canopies you'll need to go even finer and then use compound to get rid of marks and seams like in the video
@@ADRIAAN1007 As has been said, yes this would work. Glass would be more difficult as it is so hard - I think the polishing compound wouldn't be abrasive enough to take out the finer scratches. But for plastic lenses it should be okay guess.
It pisses me off to have to buy the polishing compounds that I would generally not use or need to fix this, and will cost me about a third of the price of the kit!
You can also do this with toothpaste but it’s not as good nor and clean. Bear in mind the amount you use of this stuff is next to nothing so they last forever. I’ve had these for 3 years now and no way near running out. It’s money well spent if it lasts that long
Right now trying to find this on ebay..well, you can, but because of the seller locations, Hong Kong, Australia, etc., you can bet the shipping period could be two months, or like me, when I recently ordered a set of L.E.D. Tea lights that changed colors, and used a little remote, having to order a series of four orders to get four lights, )but total bill was less than six bucks, free shipping, plus the remote..) I got a note from ebay that the seller in China canceled all the sales. Why does a model builder want L.E.D. tea lights that change color with a remote? Think 31" Nautilus wheelhouse lighting....
I don't think Tamiya produce that finishing compound anymore :( For over a year I have been asking their sole agent in my country and was told they ( Tamiya ) don't have stock.
Ahh okay. I wasn’t aware of this. I don’t know of any other polishing compounds out there but I’m sure there are alternatives still available from Gunze Sangyo for example
A few days ago I saw Tamiya’s website and it says that it’s a discontinued product... Now, there is another product to remove scratches from plastic named “Novus”. It’s kind off similar to Tamiya compound... I personally didn’t like it, but it’s the only compound that I know it works on most plastic surfaces. Hope it helped :)
could i use a cotton swab to apply the compound in a tight area. i accidentaly got glue on a window in the nose of my b17 that i was modifying. the window is too small to use anything bigger than a cotton swab
Sand at various 45 and 60 degree angles relative to each other to avoid a noticeable FLAT area on the top of the canopy. Sanding largely in one direction can create a secondary deformation. Multiple angles will help feather in the repaired area.
Mahatma Coat "East" to follow. Its all step-by-step and re-playable with instructions on screen tgat can be translated. All's it takes to be the same is instructions and the same equipment.
Will this be good enough to polish the plastic lens on the Oculus Rift? I had insecticide stain eating away at it now it has hazy spots. Just wondering if this compound can restore the optical clarity of these lenses.
I'm not sure how well this would work on optics but if done thoroughly enough does make a very smooth and scratch free surface on the plastic used for model making. The Tamiya compounds may not be strong enough to polish harder materials used on your Oculus though and I've never tried on anything other than model making materials. Unfortunately I can't help you here, sorry.
@@hugeassets8678 Good to know. I saw a really detailed video comparing novus, acetone vapor, and flame polishing acrylic optical lenses after differing levels of sanding. 2000 grit + novus was the best one tested, but people in the comments suggested much higher grit sandpapers, so I'm sure Tamiya + some sanding with finer grits works nicely.