Should use tape to cover the face of the transducer to avoid ANY sealant getting on it, and mitigate any needs to use cleaners on it. Also must ensure the arrow on the transducer points towards the keel, which is critical for proper orientation. If you use tape on the face of the 'ducer you can draw an arrow on it that matches the arrow on the top of the transducer. This way you can ensure proper orientation when installing it. I like how you removed the old transducer, but should specify the size of the hole saw needed.
Looks like it doesn’t have to be incredibly tight which is a relief for me. I ordered the flat wrench, but the slots on top of the transducer are so short it was hard to get any good torque without the wrench slipping off. I used just as much 4200 and had someone holding the transducer from underneath the boat to help me get some good turns on the nut. I probably managed to get it a little tighter than this video but I was still worried until I found this!
@@ricomunroe3684 it’s holding up great, works really well at high speed and also gives good bottom returns in shallower water (150 feet)… I’m on the SWFL coast so a deep trip is a pretty big undertaking, so I haven’t made a deep trip since I’ve installed it.
@@ericdavi1231 Good to hear it's working well. I'm excited to install mine. I have a 3 n 1 and it's great in shallow water and reads at speed but not so much in deeper water.
You said nothing about orientation of the transducer angle for the hull deadrise. Thats a critical detail to overlook isn't it. By the looks of the video its orientation isn't close pointing down. I hope I am wrong for their sake.
Yikes... I like my spacers/washers to cover a thread or 2. If you look closely, the last washer is below the thread line. Definitely made up for it with the sealant.
You would use a stainless steel model instead of bronze. The stainless models also have isolator sleeves to separate the two metals. The model would be a SS175M
