Just some information, the missing screw is a .080 screw. There is no bronze bearing inside the clutch housing, the shaft that sticks out the front is pressed in, and what you see inside is the machined end of that same shaft. That clutch could have been from 1960, or 2021. Although that large housing is currently out of stock the smaller diameter clutch (yard switcher , SD-45, etc) is still available from hobbytown of Boston, as well as the rubber impeller and all the other parts. The reason that impeller has the slits is so under speed they tend to spread a bit and that's what grabs the walls and makes the clutch work.
As you know. We all want to be like you. I have been searching all over for a clutch. RC Cars use them, but they are 30MM or larger. I have three FP-45 measure shows I have 30mm, but when I actually try to put them in, pretty sure it's going to be too tight a fit. That is a fat space compared to most. So read and watched several engineer site videos on clutches. They all seem to be limiting the power output of the motor from over-torquing the mechanism. You seem to be working from the other direction, trying to slow the application of power or balance it out. Just asking. Just because I watched a few highly detailed engineering videos does not make me a mechanical engineer. My goal would be supper slow speed creeping. We all run our power way too fast, way too quick to scale.
yes, I believe I've found a way by putting in a washer that makes the clutch engage sooner, but we'll know shortly when I reassemble. I've got a bunch of parts drying from paint and I'm working on a pattern for bringing up the wires from making it all wheel pickup... while I'm waiting on the drying station I'm doing a quick rebuild of a couple of Athearn Trainmasters that needed frame straightening.
@@elite194 You are on right track. All the clutches I saw, centrifugal spring, or electric pressure push engagement. They had freewheel RPM, Like a lot of things, I don't understand it, but I am gaining knowledge to manipulate it. Kinda like women.
first, those motors are easily replaced by modern single shaft motors. right now, the choices for single shaft motors are better than they have ever been - dual shaft motors for diesel are very hard to get. I personally, would replace a Mantua steam motor with a Mabuchi 24v 266 motor. that is by far the best single shaft motor you can buy and it is less than $3
@@Thebanjoberk they have more torque at low speed but they are not very fast at high speed. normally that isn't an issue, but if you have a helix you would want a couple locomotives with high speed 12v so you can get the train to the top in a reasonable amount of time
You should do a live show. That way when you go to oil it, we can all say we don't have to hear the corporate history or Marvel Oil and we kinda get "just a drop." Which took you 2.27 sec to accomplish. That is REALLY cool. So what is this going to do? Gear up as it engages of stagger gears? Just a few days ago I first saw a Hobbytown Motor, didn't have a clutch like this. On Ebay right now. I love the cliffhanger. Tomorrow. Installation.
A live show is in the works and I've done some testing to get it ready. The clutch has that rubber washer with the 2 cuts in the end and I think they open up at high speed and the friction rotates the flywheel which gains energy and turns the gears. Problem is that even though the stopper feels in good shape, the calipers say it's worn down a bit too much, considering it might be from 1950. I'll probably goto Ace hardware today and get a few different kinds and maybe replace it. I don't want to disable it because it's a fine piece of engineering.
That's the first clutch of that style I've seen. Hobbytown's current clutch is different from that one; and, long ago they offered some clutches with fluid in them too. I'm looking forward to other parts of this article. Mechanically speaking their drives are the best in my opinion and at one time many gear ratios were available in the gear tower. So, you could adjust the speed to closely match a prototype locomotive if you wanted to do so. The helical gears in the trucks are much better than worm gears for noise; Tenshodo's copy mechanism used worm gears (cheaper to make) and their drives are a bit nosier. Looks like you are having fun too which is even better.
When you said how would I replace this rubber piece I immediately thought of the rubber stoppers at Ace Hardware as you were saying it. I think they'd have one that size too. That clutch is really neat.
I have other Hobbytown drives, but this is the first one to get a rebuild and I really like the quality craftsmanship. Everything is square and true, the gears are silent. I'm putting it back together now and I'm going to add all-wheel pickup with some phosphor bronze wire.
