A video of the careful removal of some spray-painted fitted alcove cabinets for storage while the sub floor was repaired, and their re-installation later.
Just today I’ve been working on perfecting my workflow for melamine carcases, from SketchUp model to toolpaths for CNC! With the edgebander now up and running too, all the upcoming jobs should be melamine internals
great video. you will learn a lot more about your processes and methods from a job like this than from installing. its a fine balance between over engineering things and doing it well enough. at least you hadnt foamed it in. looks great again the level floor is way better . it really caught your eye
A great opportunity to dissect your own installation and assess your approach. I have started to experiment with how I apply the adhesive, short lines spaced out or even dots. Both ways work just as well with less product. I have also moved to a hybrid type called Sumo from Protrade. It is now my go to adhesive. Thanks for the video. Phil-Cornerstone Yorkshire. 💆🏻♂️👍🏻
Fab job Alastair; you make it look so easy- even doing it one handed😂😂. I bet you much prefer new installations though! Thank you for sharing your methodology👍
I've been using a few different 'flexible' or acrylic caulks for a few years now as an amateur and I can certainly see them holding up to movement a lot more than normal caulk. Although, they can be a little more fiddly to work with!
Good effort Alistair. I’m very capable of coping skirting by hand but for sheer speed and amazing accuracy I’ve been using a 3” cut off tool / mini grinder with a flap disc. If you are rarely cutting on sight a cheap £40 one might be an investment just to have in your van.
If ever you have to cut trim off again, use a small piece of laminate top material like formica. you can put it between the blade and the material. thin but effective.
Would it be problematic to open the doors if the cabinets were flush to the wall ? Or is it by design/aesthetics that they protrude out a little ? Thanks
Walls are never perfectly flat or plumb, and also the vertical corner often has a slight curve to it. It looks far better to deliberately sit the frontage of the cupboard a little forward or a little back from the face of the chimney breast, rather than make a poor attempt at lining up a perfectly flat cupboard face with an imperfect wall
Perfect second time around. ...... hindsight being perfect, should have matched the skirting the first time around. ..... definitely over engineering them though. Slightly better profit margins over a year with time saved but maintaining quality??
Two interesting points - 1: A while back we standardised on a simple skirting made from 18mm mdf (one routed profile, same as countertop, and shorter than most skirtings to maximise cupboard space) partly as an efficiency saving for us, partly because it prevents the doors from becoming too squashed-looking under a standard 70cm top (which is a good height for a TV unit). I do admit though a matching skirting is nice!! 2: yes I think you are absolutely right that simplifying in other area would add up to better margins, starting with small dabs of a good adhesive like sumo grip.
I've bought your diagrams (thank you) and watched your vids, but I can't quite figure out how you hold your plints on. On the ones you pulled out of here they have three vertical pieces pocket hole screwed underneath to fix back to. Is that the way you do it nowadays? If so I'll have to whip mine back out and fit those bits lol. Cheers
Well, yes that is my preferred way for the alcove units because it gives solid support and I don’t see much need for them to be removable (unlike kitchen plinths where plumbing access etc may be needed and also where the kickboard is usually set back more so the plastic clips that clip onto the legs are fine). I like things to be solid so I glue and/or pin the plinth to these blocks which were pocket hole screwed on to the underside ahead of time
@@Alastair_Freebird Magic cheers, I'll do the same. And great tip checking the carcass for square and adjusting with those orange spacers, I'll make sure I do that as well. Much appreciated.
Yes although we have tightened up the method slightly - I used to size parts for a 2mm overlap of the vertical cover strips into the unit; with the inset hinges throwing the doors in about 4 mm, for 2mm door gaps. Now we make the fillers land flush with the inside edge.
