I have had the older saw like yours, but with the enclosed stand, since new in the early eighties...and the doors are a pain, as you say... I did buy and install Carter ball bearing guides which was a great improvement over Cool Blocks or the original steel {or cast iron} guides...It has been a great saw and I cut aluminum AND brass on it running at the original speed. I also developed a way to sharpen the blade right on the saw many years ago using a chainsaw diamond burr and a Dremel..They cut better than new afterwards..A 93 1/2" blade takes about twenty minutes....As a boy in the machine shop, one of my jobs was silver-soldering bandsaw blades for customers..I have done hundreds of them....Looking forward to your follow-up videos, Lyle...thank you.....
I just got a beauty in NC ~ An OLD one with the solid iron cast tube frame for $150. Looking to revamp with best upgrades now. I'll put a couple hundred into it... super stoked to know how old it is and what the history is. Aloha ~ THANKS FOR THIS ~
Another great video. I purchased one of these new in the 90's when I was doing a lot of wood working. Now I am getting into machining and fabricating. I am planning on converting mine to do steel also. I am thinking of doing it through pulley ratio's and also moving the motor under the table so it does not get as much dust. No matter how much I clean it, the motor always seems to be an inch deep in saw dust. I will look forward to watching how you do it. Always seem to pick up a good idea or two from your video's.
I bought mine in about 1990. It works well. I have cut aluminum with a metal cutting blade but the teeth disappeared as soon as I tried cutting mild steel. I've wanted to convert mine to slow it down but it's low on a long list of projects. Looking forward to watching this series
Love the video, I'm from Brazil and I own a 1942 model, when I bought it somebody had painted all over it with a red paint, when I striped the paint the round logo was written Tauco instead of Delta, I got disappointed thinking it was a knockoff, but later I learn it was sold under that brand outside US.
MrPete! Thank you for the love!! I own each one shown here (1,2) and the one of mine you reference (3) and a second one of the same era (4) four in all !! I love the saw. Nothing new in the same class has ever compared to this machine! I tell everyone get a good ol’ used delta. Beats anything new!! 👊🏼🙏🏼✊🏻
Holy mackerel, I only have two. Plus a metal cutting saw. The real old ones are the best, except that the wheel guards are not on hinges.I watch all your videos, I cannot believe how much energy you have. Happy new year.
I have a Taiwanese knock off with the wood/metal tag. It only has a 3 step pulley, though perhaps uses a slower motor too. I just moved into the lowest setting and added metal cutting blade. So true on the blade length. I actually copied you and wrote it on my saw with a sharpie. Thank you.
@@mrpete222 Just ran down and took a look. There is a jack shaft. Tricone on the motor to a tricone on the jack, the small pulley on the jack goes to a big one on the drive wheel. The other two can be swapped on the motor, giving two speeds. I have no convenient facility to check the speed, but it is pretty slow. I can go measure them to calculate the speed if you'd like.
A great morning to drink coffee, and watch Tubalcain. Interesting bandsaw video. I am looking for a good older Delta bandsaw to make a metal cutting bandsaw! Looking forward to the followup videos. Praying you keep your vigor for many years to come. At east as long as I keep mine!! LOL
I had to stop the video to give you a thumbs up when you said why don’t they put the size blade these things take on the machine? No kidding , talk about dropping the ball !
Great history lesson. I agree with you on plastic knobs. Because of "necessity" I converted my 12" Craftsman wood bandsaw to a metal cutting saw using the "jackshaft" approach and it works quite well.. Good stuff, I will be watching..... Fred
john suckoe ..... Two distinct companies in the beginning. Delta's 890 bandsaw began in the very early 1930s and were built in Milwaukee. The Walker Turner firm was out of So. Plainfield, NJ and was a competitor. The Rockwell conglomerate bought both companies and did mix & match some machines, but the bandsaws seemed immune from that.... the Delta model stayed in production to the end.
Mr. Pete, My Delta band saw is a 70’s model that my dad purchased new. Inside the cover I noticed he wrote the blade size. I agree, how much trouble or cost would it be to put that size somewhere on the machine! Delta still “markets” bandsaws and a host of other power tools but NONE are made in the USA. One guess where they farmed out the mfg. process? Dale from Decatur
Personally, I'd prefer a good glass-reinforced nylon knob to the die-cast zinc. A hammer will just bounce off the glass-reinforced stuff, while the zinc will crack. That said, there are really bad plastic knobs out there, so it really depends on the specifics..
Good information! Thank you for sharing. What would be the reason that back upper wheel assembly (thicker part that house the ball bearing) rubbed against the hinge?
Hello, the pulley on the bandsaw wheel (not the motor) works its way off its shaft; the little key that stabilizes the pulley works its way loose, and the pulley comes off. Do I just need a new key? Where would I get one, if you think this is the answer. Thank you.
I enjoyed the history of Delta band saws. I owned a 3 wheel Delta that was for wood/metal used it years. Sold it to a young fellow that was starting to make woodcraft he is still using it today.
I have the newer one but the on and off power is a toggle switch. In changing thrust bearings, I could not figure out how to get to the bottom one. Your help in accomplishing this is requested. Thanks.
Great video! I have one of the Chinese knock-offs and have had to make a few improvements. Looking forward to the next videos on band saws for some more improvement ideas.
What kind of improvements did you make? I have a knockoff (probably from china, but it is from the 90's so I have some hope part of it might be US/Canada made). I already know I need an aftermarket fence and replacing the guides with "cool blocks", minor repairs to the machine, and finally a much better base (or lots of metal added to make it heavy/stiff). My problem is i don't want to throw too much money at it, if I do I should just start to look at a modern high quality machine.
Third party (kreg) fence, cool blocks, urethane tires. Mine is 4 speed using a jack shaft. The secondary belt slipped a lot on the jack shaft so I moved it to one step over to get a bigger pulley and more contact. That stopped the slipping, but made the saw a little faster and reduced it to a 3 speed saw. Replacing the chinese belts on both the motor to jack shaft and jack shaft to saw, along with the new tires, made the saw almost vibration free--a problem I had from the beginning. The belts made the biggest difference. I also extended the blade tensioning knob to above the saw so I don't break my knuckles when adjusting. I changed all of hex head bolts on the blade guides to socket head screws so I can adjust with allen wrenches. I spend as much time fiddling with the saw as I do using it, but it is fun trying to improve it.
Good history lesson. And I am with you--sad downgrade going from metal knobs to plastic!! I just purchased the newer one, a 1989 Delta 14", made in the USA. Looks identical to the one in your video. Owner's manual says "Wood Band Saw." No mention of metal cutting ability. Excellent observations. You have a keen eye. 🙏
Any info on the old horizontal models? Own an old Rockwell Delta 7v, 7x11 wet cut bandsaw and would love to see if I'm missing or could improve anything on mine
Interesting Video! I am from Germany and have one branded Delta Rockwell. On its type plate it says Munich 1972. I did a restorarion on it and it had a weird mix of metric and imperial fasteners. My guess is they imported some parts from the US and assembled it in Munich. Beautiful maschine which speaks quality in every part. Size is perfect for small shops.
Mr. Pete, I don't know if you've ever seen General equipment. They are famous for their wood bandsaws and lathes. I have the 190 bandsaw which is a 15" all-castiron (including the one-piece door). It is a beast and a pleasure to use. Pictures of a unit similar to mine can be seen here: vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=15805 Thanks for the history and all your videos. Regards from Canada! Mike
My pulley on my blade wheel (not the motor pulley) works itself loose and comes off. I have re-positioned it and tightened the set screw several times, but in a few minutes of using it, it works loose again. Someone suggested I coat the set screw and keyway with JB Weld. What would you do about this problem? Thank you.
Re: bandsaw blade length: Once bought half dozen blades from a small operator who had silver soldered a mess of blades from several coils of Starrett blade. I had to return them because he'd cut them at 92-5/8". Imagine his chagrin!
👍👍👍👍 I have an old Rockwell Delta and a Delta I purchased new in 1982. Kicked around changing one to metal only as well. But also have a riser block I'd like to install too.... decisions decisions lol... maybe I'll find a third.
Jackson TN is where Delta relocated to. The plant was off I - 40 I had a Delta band saw that I bought new in 2001 and it was built in Jackson. I am not sure when they moved off shore.. but they became junk when they did.
enjoy any video put out by Tubalcain Mr.Pete222 aka Lyle Peterson your videos are the penultimate of You-Tube Machining and allied craftsman type Edutainment
Another informative video. It is amazing how a quality built bandsaw changes over the years. Competition is a wonderful thing when it works, but a disaster when the playing field is out of balance. Thank you and keep these excellent videos coming.
The older wood/metal had a gear shift lever that rotated gears and also three step pulleys. I have one of those and have it dedicated to cutting steel. Then they went to a shaft mounted reduction system not too unlike your pull gear and step pulleys. Others who have tried gear boxes, dc motors, and jack shafts to get to 100 fpm have run into excessive belt slippage on the final drive. Some have made the final drive from the jack shaft a chain drive. If you have the earlier 8" driven pulley saw, you can in deed cut aluminum. I regularly cut aluminum on mine with a 3" drive pulley and 8" driven pulley. The later versions have a 6" driven pulley and run the blade at almost 3000 fpm. I usually add a crank to a piece of 13.5" all thread to make a new blade tensioning rod. I like your bearing idea. While the threaded hole is there for the table stop, the newer ones did not come with the bolt, nut or "cup" that allowed you to set the table stop and still be able to tilt it the opposite direction. Making a few of those would be a good future video.
Thank you,. I have about five videos coming up on the subject. I experienced much failure. And I know exactly what you mean with the belt slippage, that was a major problem. I made the exact crank with threaded rod that you mentioned, and I only did it yesterday, LOL. My neighbor has one of the combination saws. But it is a late model. I eventually it will make a video using it. My saw was very unsatisfactory for cutting steel. Vibrating, shattering, and extremely noisy. Nothing like a real metal cutting saw.
Hello, I am handicapped, and as the years go by I am increasingly weaker. I have a 14 inch delta bandsaw, it was one that I bought the last year they were made in the United States. Anyway I need a good Bandsaw blade for wood that I can purchase online. So I thought the best thing to do is if I asked an expert. Who better than someone who is a teacher of woodworking shop. I would appreciate it if you save me a few steps. Luke
I believe the blade links is 93 1/2 inch. Is that correct? That is a very common blade and can be found in box stores and hardware stores. If not, order read from McMaster Carr or any other industrial supply or such as K BC or MSC. However when you order them, you have postage and all of the other expenses so try to get it locally
Yes Sir I did Woodworking professionally for over 20 years and almost any of their tools have cheapened up by going with those crappy plastic knobs that don’t last very long at all most of their products are being built in Taiwan now as i believe they did close that facility you talk about that was inthe South East UnitedStates BTW i loved the old catalogs you used inthe video ! i did my Woodworking but inmy family we do have our fair share of Machinists and Tool and Die Makers so throughout my life i was asked to “help” unload and setup many of those Machines inthe Catalogs and like Jimmy D i put many hours on a old Delta Unisaw that is still set up where i used it last and will probably stay as a backup saw in that shop i expect that it will most likely outlive me at this point as it has always been well cared for and maintained ! my new saw will be a SawStop
Don't be stupid in the shop tip: Don't be tempted to cut wood on a metal cutting bandsaw. I did this once and I ended up cutting my finger open (thankfully no stitches). It cuts super slow and you will be tempted to use alot of pressure then if something slips you have a situation.
I was in a hurry and needed something done at work and I thought I could wing it rather then spend 20 minutes looking for wood cutting tools in a supposedly dust controlled area.
May not be a good idea to saw wood on a bandsaw used for metal. The metal chips get impeded in the wheel tires and cannot be cleaned out of the bandsaw. The metal chips will find their way into any wood you saw which you will not find out about until you apply finish to the wood. I know this from experience.
I have one of these with a cast iron base. You are dead on about the blade covers being a pain. I have for some time been thinking about putting one of the Carter blade tension release kits on it. I have gotten help from: www.mikestools.com/Delta-Band-Saws-Parts-Lists_2277a.aspx with parts.
They will cut brass, aluminum and copper at those higher "wood" speeds with no ill affects to the "wood" blades. Also, McMaster Carr will provide custom length blades of almost any of their offered blades for metal cutting upon request. Cutting copper and Aluminum at the higher speeds is almost a must ...as well as using the wood blades because the tooth geometry is more positive than the metal blades.
Bronze will be instant death to a Bi-Metal blade, were as 360 brass, copper and aluminum won't phase it! If you have fear, I understand. It is the "Internet"... I know. So, try an old tired blade on some scrap you got layin around, put it in a vid. (Yer da man! THX U!)
Mr. Pete, Delta sold to a Chinese company about 5 yrs ago. They still make the Unisaw in the Carolinas. When they sold out, the new company through out all the parts to the US machines. They only support the new Unisaw. A Delta rep told me this at a trade show. The US manufacturers cannot compete with the Chinese for consumer goods. Wilton started building their drill presses in China when they were bought by Jet. Clausing stopped building their 15 inch drill press about 12 years ago. The 20 inch was still made in the states, but I understand it is imported now. It's a shame, but no one wants to spend the money for US made tools.
Whoa, you had me scared there, but according to Clausing's website the drill presses are still made in Cleveland. The parent company is the 600 Group out of London.
Paul, I took a look on their website, and they have returned the manufacture of the 20 inch drill press to the US. They have not built the 15 inch drill press since 2006. I have one from the last run I bought in early 2007.
The copying of the Delta bandsaws were the first tool copied, and opened the flood gates for the Far East. I guess the only good thing is some of the Grizzly parts work just fine.
Very nice video! Now I have a metal cutting Delta, with the gear box, but have only used the saw as direct drive. I will have to get some step pulleys and fill the gear box with oil now and see how much oil it leaks. Haha! Enjoy your videos.
@mrpete222 Mr Pete, good morning, just put a video of the old bandsaw with back gears on my youtube page. Demonstrated the different speeds through the back gear and step pulleys. Thank you!
I have the Delta Wood / Metal version - picked it up cheap at a Gov’t auction for under $350 - it was never used for metal cutting. We also own a larger Laguna bandsaw but it’s the 14” Delta that gets used the most. The Delta 14” is so versatile.
@@mrpete222 Delta used to make a good light for their bandsaw - hard to find a used one - have you found a good work light for bandsaws, drill presses and grinders?
Can someone please help me figure this out?? I don’t remember how long ago it was but I saw video of tubalcain where he showed us set of pen styled Tools like a scribe and X-Acto knife and things like that and it was a sit and I’m trying to figure out what they were called because I can’t find them anywhere. I just remember they had blue handles on them I believe it was a private company
My father just got a '42 Delta bandsaw from my Grandpa, and we're having a hard time putting a new drive belt on, would you have any advice for me? Thank you and I appreciate any help 😀
I would like a vertical metal cutting bandsaw in my shop instead of the portable one on a stand. My question is what is the footprint of one of these saws? I may be able to put it on wheels and roll it in a space.
These quality tools that lasted 70 years and still working today where from a time where man didn't need a computer to do is work and to become a creator or a professional woodworker !
Thank you for the information you provided. I will be replacing my strut bearings but when I removed the table from my older14 inch Delta band saw, the bearing underneath was difficult to remove. Please tell me what I need to do to replace the bearing. Will I have to replace the unit where the bearing is attached? Thanking you in advance for your help.
I work mostly with metal sheet and would love to have a metal cutting bandsaw, so I am looking forward looking forward to seeing your next video. I have also been contemplating slowing my tablesaw down to cut metal: may apply . Thanks and God willing you will stay spry for many many more years!
16:45 Tolerant maybe, or perhaps we are used to getting a product, with not much info, so we don't hurt ourselves and sue ? BTW, please lets find a print professional and make up some stickers w/ Delta, Milwaukee and even Horror Fright blade lengths AND DIRECTION ! (I have personally bought 2 used bandsaws with the blades installed BACKWARDS...yes I did try to tell them, no, they wanted it gone, so I bought them both...not sorry)
Have you ever seen the ones sold under the french brand "Syderic" ? They were built on the Delta frame but very robust for metal cutting, with a 2 speed gearbox, 8 speeds total, closed stand and "one single door" guard ?
I also bought one from Penny's outlet back in the late 1970's. It was missing the motor. I had a 3 hp motor laying around. I made a 16 speed cone pulley transmission for it and I can go from around 150 fpm to around 2000 fpm. I just used what I had at the time. I have been using it for about 40 years now and I still works fine. On another note, I remember years ago that Delta had ads in some of the trade magazines about the cloned imports coming in from overseas. I believe they were soliciting for a class action lawsuit or warning buyers about inferior knock offs. Imitation is the highest form of flattery. Oh! The dangers of capitalism!
One of the frustrating things about these saws was the use of zinc alloy trunnions. I learned the hard way about grabbing the table to move the saw. The trunions simply crumbled when the table was twisted. Many of the imports are now using cast iron trunnions which is a big improvement.
You need about 1/20th reduction, maybe more. Pull gear does not have the right stuff. Make 2 compound pulley's and idler to change belt or gear reduction.
Always looking for "the deal", when J.C.Penney dropped the appliance, hardware and auto center departments in 1983, all their tools went on sale. Picked up my Rockwell drill press and table saw that year, which BTW I still use.
...12:50.....It would have made a very sturdy blade guide, but they'd have had to broach that cast-iron piece for a 1" hex....there are a couple companies making metal cutting bandsaws that do have a 1" square hole up there, but in a cast aluminum frame....when it gets worn...nearly impossible to fix/repair….but that's usually only a problem in very old and heavily abused saws. (Just my opinion as a Maintenance Mechanic)...
I and others have removed that slow hand wheel at the top for tightening the blade and replaced with a crank with about a 6 inch arm. Much nicer. I think if I can find a faucet type handle I will replace my thumb bolts like you did.
I have a Rockwell branded version but it must be late Rockwell. Wood and metal version, enclosed base and motor like your Delta, sheet metal belt box on the back side like your Delta but the belt cover box has a hinged cover for access to the gearbox shift, 4 belt speeds plus 2 gearbox speeds, hinged wheel guards, cast metal knobs. It has the same part number as the Delta branded version. Lovely saw. The riser kit is still available.
I love my old Delta Milwaukee except, for those miserable blade guards. I got mine for free without a motor from the place where I spent most of my working life. It was on one of those narrow stands and got knocked over and broke the trunnions and support. The maintenance supervisor who gave it to me said, "It's so old you won't be able to get parts for it ." Well, I knew they never changed the design by 1982, when I got it. Two days later, I got the trunnions and was able to braze the support casting back together. I also, got the height attachment. Mine now, has two motors. A regular and a gear motor, another freebie. They are connected to a dpdt switch. Up is the high speed motor and down is the gear motor. The gear motor is on a swinging mount. There are two pulleys on the saw. When I want to cut steel, I swing the gear motor up and slip an extra belt onto it and the other pulley. The high speed motor just goes along for the ride and doesn't mind a bit. Before I made that set-up, I had the saw lined up to my South Bend headstock. I would put a pulley on a short piece of shaft, chucked it up in the lathe and slung a Corvair fan belt, (they're very long), from it to the bandsaw. With the lathe in back gear, it worked perfectly.
That is an ingenious set up with the Lathe. I never would have thought of it. And yes I remember those Corvair fan belts. Every car came with an extra one
....Your blade size written on the band saw instantly reminded me of the first thing I did when I bought my old Olson metal saw at an auction, WRITE DOWN the blade size on it with a paint marker! I too would rather see metal instead of cheap arsh plastics on knobs and accessories.But bean counters win for shareholders. About the only place I approve of plastics is in hand tools as long as they stay away from the "junk" plastics because it really reduces the tool weight. ..that all for now, 99 miles away from ND/Boisavain Canadian/International Peace Gardens
powermatic also has 2 models of 14" bandsaws one had a 2 speed gearbox for metal the other was direct drive. i belive they are more heavily built than the delta. i have a direct drive wood cutting powermatic and am going to be building a gear reduction as well as mounting a dc motor with speed control soon
Mr. Pete, you & I share the very same feelings about manufacturing of USA products. A little more info. on the band saw. Around 2009-10 Delta thought(?) they could have China manufacture that saw. That turned into a huge problem. Parts were not standardized/nor fit one with other. Carter's bearing guides could not fit because the casting interfered. I think that's when Delta decided to sell to Taiwan. Everything, table saws, band saws, drill presses, the trade name Delta, the list goes on. Why did I do the research into this? Simple, I bought a band saw that was manufactured in China by Eskimos in the dark. Yes, I paid $50.00 for it & I knew how to fix those problems. I taught Industrial Arts for 22 years.
They did offer a Wood/Metal version of the 20" saw; I know because I have one. Search "28-365 Bandsaw" for more info and images. Interestingly, Rockwell labeled it Metal/Wood instead of Wood/Metal. Very good machine if you can find one that has not been abused. Weaknesses? (Some of these may also apply to the 14" Metal/Wood version): 1) Not really a weakness but definitely something to be aware of if buying on of these that you cannot test: If saw was operated by an idiot who changed ranges on the High/Low range gearbox while saw was running, gearbox may have been damaged. The dual range gearbox works in conjunction with a Reeves drive variable pulley set; the latter can and should be adjusted while machine is running. If bushing of Reeves drive did not receive regular shots of grease, expect wear. The manual specifies using grease in the dual range gearbox... I use 85W/140 gear oil (heavy stuff) because the majority of the grease in such a case gets pushed aside during the first 3 seconds of rotation and never again contacts the gears. 2) Blade guide system uses slides (rubbing blocks) on either side of the blade and an off-center roller behind the blade. The blade is supported by one side of the FACE of the roller; blade kind of skids along one side of the face which (sort of) causes it to rotate. see image here and note how blade is off to one side. vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/images/2020-A.jpg It is assumed that off-center loading of roller will cause it to rotate but there are other forces acting on the roller that are somewhat in conflict to those promoting rotation. The resulting rotational forces that do act on the roller are very slight so you need to keep an eye on it (and keep it lubed) as it does tend to get hung up and if left that way, it will eventually wear a groove in the hardened face of the roller. If play in roller bearings becomes excessive, roller will not rotate because axis will no longer be perpendicular to section of blade and it will be easier for the roller to just sit there cocked/skewed without rotating. There are some excellent aftermarket replacement guide systems; not cheap but you're keeping the saw... 3) Again not really a weakness; more an observation: Starting the saw while set up for higher blade speeds involves some fairly violent belt slippage but there's no harm in this; just makes a screeching sound until inertia of rotating mechanism is overcome.
I would suggest using a 3 phase motor and VFD to change the cutting speed. I sold my Delta wood/metal cutting BS to purchase a much larger BS. I wish I had not sold the 14" Delta, because I do miss being able to slow the speed for metal cutting. So what I am going to do is the above. Yes the motor and VFD can be pricey, but I'll spend the money on something. Why not buy these devices and enjoy it? By the way.............. Great video Mr Pete. We love you. And I am sure 1,000's more do to. You have done so much for us dear person. P.S. You will love that Delta fence because it has a fantastic "vernier" knob. Be surprised how much that comes in handy. Also; that wood/metal 14" Delta BS your brother had; has 6 speeds (using opposing multi-grooved pulleys and a quick switch over knob, from hi speed to lo speed as well), with a chart as to what speed you need for what metal you are going to cut. And it is quite easy to change the speeds. Awesome.
My biggest gripe about stationary power tools in the US is the SWITCHES. Even the switches like the one you show on on the newer saw which look to be very good quality still are not No-Voltage Release switches. You can tell somebody to unplug the machine as often as you may like, but unless they also remember to check the physical position of the switch, when they plug it back in it may jump up and bite 'em! Instead for an extra few dollars you can install a No-Voltage Release type switch which will save you such an indignity, and perhaps also save you a fingertip or two.
Hi Tubalcain. I am thinking of getting a Delta/Rockwell bandsaw and came across your video. Just wanted to say it was a really practical and informative video and to thank you. Much appreciated. Will go through more of your videos. Wish you a long and healthy life. Take care.
Thoroughly enjoyed, a few things to add. I have 4 delta 14's and a jet 14 (delta painted white) The oldest is a 1947 Delta Milwaukee with the open stand, a 1970's 2 speed wood/metal (2 HP) labeled Delta-Rockwell with the tan paint scheme but still with a wood blade guard, one similar to the newer one shown with the closed stand (3/4 HP), and a 1990's with a side mount motor on an open stand (1 HP). The 2 speed has an oil bath gearbox as the lower casting along with step pulleys for further adjustment. The build quality definitely got cheaper during the Delta-Rockwell years. As for the hex remaining on the blade guide on the bottom of the upper guard, my best guess is it is to align the guide blocks with the blade, the jet 14" I have does not have that feature and has to be checked occasionally for inaccuracy. A few years ago I was on the hunt for my first bandsaw and quickly realized there were no quality new ones on the market and turned to the used market (And subsequently acquired multiple)
It seems to me that as time goes by, the quality and functionality of a product should emprove. But, unfortunately, it does not. Greed steps in and ruins it all. Plastic replaces cast aluminum, stamped steel replaces cast iron. Pretty soon, paint is going to be an option. Progress is going backasswords.
Thanks Mr. Pete for putting the Delta 14” vertical bandsaw into your spot light. I have fully restored three for use in my shop (10” from 37, 14” from ‘46, and a 14” W/M from 1950 with the 6” riser). Speaking of blade changing, I always remove the table first...it’s easier and faster than with the table in place...time yourself and see the results ( adjusting the lower guide blades is so easy with no table!). Love your videos.
I have one of those wood/metal saws from back in the forties. I restored it and put a two speed motor on it, so with the two speed gearbox and the three step pulleys, I’ve got more speeds than I’ll likely ever need. I also made a new rear blade guard, but I used some scrap black walnut. Like that my old saw has zero plastic anywhere in or on it. Mine looks just like the one in that first catalog. Wish I had an original stand tho...
I picked up a 14" Beaver Bandsaw this summer from a retired shop teacher that maybe I will convert to metal. The Beaver was built in sometime in the 1950's in Ontario, and that company was also gobbled up by Rockwell.
I did a pretty good comparison between the present-day Delta 14" bandsaw and the Harbor Freight 14" bandsaw...and found them to be virtually the same machine with the major difference being that the HF machine uses a closed-frame capacitor-start motor with a 4 step pulley system (cast iron pulleys too) for speed changes. I went with the HF saw and haven't been sorry yet. Now the Delta saws have a very new look to them, but this was a few years ago.
I would consider a VFD and 3 phase motor. rather than VDC. If you get a 3 phase motor with the same frame, it might be a drop in replacement. The VFD will control the blade speed better. VFD's are available that are single phase input and 3 phase output. I have had both and both can work. I have a VDC on my 9x20 lathe and can thread under power at about 14RPM.
I wrote my blade lengths on the saws too. Then I still didn’t have ‘em when I went to order blades, so I now keep them in a Notepad file in the machinery folder on the computer. At last, the data is where I need it. I can even keep my favorite blade stock numbers there, the easier to find that they’ll be discontinued next time I want some.
It is a far far board I resawed than ever I sawed before. . . Seriously, I have a mid 90’s delta 14 inch. It is a great tool, but it doesn’t track well. If you could go over tracking at some point it would be great. Thanks Lyle Frank
the new consumer models are built cheap, but you might be interested to know the ryobi small bench top band saws use a plastic latch like a toolbox to secure themselves. I also share your dislike of web casting reinforcement because it turns into a complete nightmare when it rusts, I have a table saw that the bottom rusted completely.,. that's going to be fun to clean and paint :(
I have the gearbox model, not sure the year. Pretty familiar with the non-hinged covers they are a pain. Also odd that all the chips and swarf fall to the bottom of the open base where the motor is mounted. Had to shield it with a piece of cardboard. Odd designs. This is a fun video and will enjoy the series.
I've got a delta model 28-276 made in the early 2000s or so. I find it crazy that you're newer delta has plastic parts and my Chinese made saw has cast handles and knobs. The only complaint I've got is the doors will not stay shut.
Willard F. Rockwell was a gifted engineer/businessman whose contributions to the American industrial fabric ranged from tools (both consumer and industrial) to automotive products used in the production of cars and trucks (he was a long-time Director at Timken) to aviation products and finally contributed to the space age through Rockwell International.
