Hey Steameredge! Thanks for the excellent and informative vid. I just bought one at a garage sale here in Vancouver British Columbia Canada for $75 cad! Ride ride ride!
Thanks, I'm sure you won't regret it, for more Unimat Tips have a look at my other Unimat SL video "More About the Unimat SL Lathe" on my SteamerEdge channel on YT, cheers Paul
The Unimat indexer attachment came with a 48 tooth wheel. Other tooth counts were available (as he showed) as optional and are extremely hard to find today (usually quite costly). But the 48 tooth is a good general purpose choice since it allows even divisions of 48, 24, 16, 12, 8, 6, 4, 3, and 2.
I've had a Unimat SL since 1970. It still works great whenever I need it. I once was able to order parts & accessories from the Sears tool catalogs. Today there are a few online mail order catalogs that stock SL parts.
Hi, thanks for your interest, yes, the Unimats are amazingly robust, versatile and appealing little Lathes. I still use mine on a regular basis for all kinds of projects. 2nd-hand goods websites, garage sales , flea markets etc are the only option for parts and accessories these days. Cheers Paul
I just bought an old Unimat SL the other day and am now hunting for things it lacks. The carriage was garbage, with a terribly bent and fractured/crumbling casting. I have a missing grub screw. There is a minimal amount of mushrooming to the end of one carriage "way" bar. Beyond that damage, it appears to be a very mint machine, with excellent, clean paint and tagging. (I suspect the original carriage was lost and that a new owner purchased this piece of junk. When it did not work, the owner (probably a novice) gave up and placed the lathe in storage.) I have a complete carriage assembly on the way, as well as several fun, little bits made and sold by enthusiasts. I am searching for the steady rest. (I missed out on one in eBay by $2.50 the other day. Rats!) I would like to have that dividing head, a live center, and the milling bed, too. I am an avid Jeep owner and mechanic. We like to say that Jeep is actually an acronym for JUST EMPTY EVERY POCKET, so owning one of these little Unimat lathes ought to satisfy my apparent need to have hobbies that keep my wallet empty, heh, heh… Great video, sir! Where did you get that height-adjustable tool post? I had not seen that before.
Hi, thanks for you comment, yes many Unimat SL's have been abused by previous owners due to their limitations. The steady rest is nice to have, but something I hardly ever use because I try to plan operations so that I never turn anything protruding more than about 40mm from the chuck jaws. Yes, my Tool Post is custom built by the previous owner of my lathe. It has generated so many comments over the years that I have decided to post a video which only deals with my Tool Post. Watch my SteamerEdge Channel for this Tool Post video coming up soon. Another sure and easy way to pour your money down a vast black hole is to own an old Land Rover as I have for the past 23 years. ;-}} cheers Paul
Nice to see this lathe again. I bought one new about 50 years ago, this model had the metal handwheels instead of the plastic ones of later production. Did not have all those accessories in those days because they were rather expensive. I'am still sorry I had to sell the lathe, but I am now very happy with my Cowells 90 ME and the Myford Super 7. Keep on doing the good work!!
Very informative video, thank you ! I have one very similar to yours passed down to me from my grandfather. It hasn’t been used since he passed away nearly 30 years ago. Still turns and has a box of attachments with it. I’ll have to put some new belts on it and see what maintenance it may need.
Thank you for this overview. I bought one second hand about 30 years ago. My Father-in-law and I flew his Piper Cherokee to Wisconsin so I could pick it up! I have tried to use it over the years but have been stymied by my lack of skill and general knowledge about metal working.
Thanks for your comment, I also have another video titled "More about the Unimat SL Lathe" on my SteamerEdge YT channel. It's nice to know that these videos are useful
Thank you so much for this video. I have been trying to decide whether a Unimat lathe would be adequate for the work I would like to do and I am now convinced it would work.
I own one of those. It came with a few attachments but it’s amazing how many I’ve never even seen before! Word of advice, the attachments are very expensive nowadays!!! If you find one with all or most of the attachments, at a reasonable price, but it! Buying in little add ons here and there, make it financially restraining! Great video!
Hi, yes, they are expensive now. But, in my opinon, these little lathes are still the best financial option for the novice who wants to start Model Engineering. I actually have 3 of these Unimat SL Lathes which I have manage to acquire over the past 15 years. The extra Lathes I have are used for the spares and extra accessories. cheers Paul
I just obtained one of these on a trade. It came with a box of parts that I had no idea what their use was.... until now! Thank you for the demonstration.
Thank you for this thorough overview of the venerable Unimat. While there are thousands of these in use, there are actually very few videos on YT that show them in operation machining components for actual projects. Also, they command fairly high prices here in the US.
Thanks, yes, you are right. These little lathes were very well marketed around the world.About 25% of all the comments I have received on my channel, to date, have been about the Unimat - hence the video. People certainly seem to be interested this little Lathe
I know this is an old comment. We are starting to see more and more Unimats on RU-vid, partly because of channels like this one, SteamerEdge. In fact, after watching channels like yours talking bout the Unimat, I decided to invest in one. Here is my unboxing video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ImLhOnL4-_s.html I would love to read your thoughts on the condition of my lathe.
Hi Bill, my apologies, for some reason I've only just come across your comment now. Thanks, glad you found my videos useful. Had a look at your videos on your Unimat SL. Looks in fine condition to me and I'm sure you will find it really helpful for the types of restoration projects I see on your channel. Cheers Paul
Hi , I have a Unimat SL I bought new in 1977 with many accessories , I made a nice box to store everything in but never used it until I retired in 2019! Now with spare time I am making wooden model wagons and find the Unimat excellent to drill wheel and spoke holes accurately using the 3 jaw chuck on the dividing head, I have 30,40 and 48 tooth inserts for it which gives all possibilities for the number of spokes per wheel you need. I enjoyed the video and still look for more accessories, I have the thread cutting attachment but no leaders or followers and I would like the adjustable tool holder you show, I do detect you accent as very close to a south African one which is where I am in Springs.
Hi, yes, plenty of used Unimat bargains still to be found in South Africa. These machines were extremely popular and well marketed here. The tool holder with the fine tip height adjustment modification is a simple item to make yourself. Have a look at the free online archives of Model Engineer magazine for a plan. I am South African, born in Krugersdorp, I live in Cape Town. Glad you enjoyed the Video - Paul
That takes me back. If I remember correctly, this lathe was available from several of the Great Universal catalogues at around £50 in the late 60s/ early 70s. You could buy it for £2 a week!
That is interesting, yes, the appeal of these little Lathes far exceeded the manufacturers expectations. Many survive in excellent working condition today.
Steameredge. I love your videos when u use the lathe. I would greatly appreciate more! I realize your a busy man but I can’t get enough. I just picked up the same lathe and learned a lot from this vid alone. Thanks!
Nice..!.This made me get my own Unimat SL out of the mothballs and give it a proper cleaning. I am going to use it to restore my clock parts. Now I have the time for it as I'm retired now.
I found one for $100.00 at a pawnshop. Not sure if it has the milling attachment or dividing head. I did notice several dogs , faceplate , live center , drill chuck in the box. Mainly I just felt for loose headstock bearings ,and checked carriage slop. I wasn't sure if it was just a toy or a "real" lathe. Anyway I'm going to go back in a little while and fetch it home. I did notice the belts were dryrotted. Ill need to check out how to make them.
While he is correct that one use of a 4-jaw chuck is to hold something irregular, it is usually far more often used when something needs to be held more concentric than is possible with a 3-jaw self-centering type. There are plenty of videos showing methods for using an indicator and adjusting the jaws to get something running very true. This is especially useful if a part has to be removed from the lathe for some other operation and then returned to the lathe. Or even just the case of having to turn a part around end for end in the lathe.
thanks for that video , I have been looking for a smaller lathe for my modeling work as the old Colchester lathe I have is coming to the end of it's days
I can certainly recommend the Unimat SL or Unimat Mk 3 - both extremely capable miniature lathes . There are still many Unimat lathes , accessories and spare parts available second hand. I am enjoying watching the steam engine videos on your channel, thanks, Paul
I've never seen a set that complete.. I have one in my shop at the moment, it is my father's Lathe, i'm but a spoiled brat with 2 EMCO CNC lathes in my workshop.. but then.. i have to make a living with those.. I have made some watch parts on the UNIMAT SL, and it is indeed a fine lathe (you can also use the quill in the headstock for turning, like a swiss lathe, just set the crosslide to a certain Z-position and diameter, and feed with the quill The only downside in my opinion, and that is why i have my father's UNIMAT here, is the lack of adjustable dimension rings.. i've already designed some handwheels with these.. and i will make those in the near future.. would also be a fun project on your machine.. since you have the index-head. I'm also planning on making my father a quick change toolpost with some toolholders, some small Solid Carbide cutters and boring bars (i make these myself for my other lathes as well) Nice review, and a nice little machine!
Thanks, yes, I was very lucky to acquire my Unimat SL and its accessories in such excellent condition from its original owner some 12 years ago. I have also acquired various 2nd hand Unimat SL spares and accessories over the years. I have never tried turning operations using the quill/ lever to move the Head stock towards the stationary Tail stock but I think it could be very useful in certain situations and I will try it out. Thanks for the tip. Yes, I have always wanted a top quality quick change tool post for my Unimat SL, still looking for one - Paul
@@SteamerEdge Well.. if you don't mind spending a lot of money, look for a "Tripan" Tool holder (Swiss made, Schaublin used these as well).. or.. Just make one yourself.. it is not that hard.
Hello! I bought a lathe almost a copy like this it's name "универсал" It was make in 1969 year in USSR. I watching this video because our lathe the same and i can't find more information about my "универсал".
You're right, I could never work out why such a popular machine was discontinued. There are still many of these little lathes around though. Thousands were sold world wide from the 1960's to the end 1980's. Thanks for your comment :-))
@@SteamerEdge Sherline makes a better and more versatile lathe and milling machine. The Unimat lathe has lots of deflection ( ie "bounce") in the rods that it uses for the bed and cross slide. When you compare the two machines, Sherline beats the Unimat in every way that I can think of.
Hi, thanks for your comment, I well acquainted with the Sherline Lathe and agree that it is a superb machine. Both machines have pros and cons and you are entitled to your personal opinion. :-))
Thanks for the vid! The husband of my mum's cousin gave me this same Unimat lathe, and, besides the user's manual, there's no much more information about it, and i wanted to know what is capable to do, as i'm pretty newbie in machining, all what i know is from youtube vids and my father when it used to work with my grandpa. It came just as a lathe, so i have to search for the milling attachment and all the other pieces on Ebay, to make a cool configuration of this small little piece of smart engineering. Thanks again for sharing that!
Thanks, yes, the UNIMAT is a very good machine. Subscribe and take a look at the other videos on my STEAMEREDGE channel to see the kind of model Engineering projects I have undertaken using the UNIMAT. Spares and attachment for the UNIMAT are freely available on market websites like Ebay, Gumtree, Craig's list etc.
SteamerEdge Mike Walton has made me a set of such tools and made a RU-vid explanation video of his grinds yesterday on his channel. Cost for these is very reasonable and he is very enterprising and helpful (I have no connection other than appreciating his tools and creativity).
Hi great video thanks. I have a unimat sl. How do you align the tail stock to make it perfectly centered? Mine is slightly higher than the Center by about a mm. Thanks!
Been using this model nearly every day for years. I have a couple large lathes but for small work, I just love this lathe. I have a question, where did you get the tool holder and insert holders?
Hi Larry, thanks for your comment, yes I love using the UNIMAT and I'm always amazed at how many devoted users there are around the world. I think that the original manufacturers of this Lathe never, in their wildest dreams, ever envisaged the efficiency, versatility and world-wide appeal of this little machine. I got the adjustable index tip tool holders from RGD Tools in the UK. The tool holder has a 6mm X 6mm shank. Just type "RDG Tools" on the Google search bar. The RDG tools website has a special section for UNIMAT users. They also have a nice miniature parting-off tool for the UNIMAT.
Hello! I just acquired the UNINAT model which doesn’t have “SL” in the title. Can you tell me the difference between the “SL” model and the non-“SL” model?
The Manufacturers, Edelstal, based in Austria allowed several licensed Distributors to put their own labels on these Lathes during the 1950's, 60's - early 1970's . Early Unimats, identical to my "SL" model , with labels omitting the SL, such as "Selecta" , "Elliot Machine Tools - London " and other Distrubutors are fairly common. Cheers Paul
@@SteamerEdge What a wonderful answer! Thank you so much. I really appreciate it. This was a wonderful help! :-) ADDED EDIT: I realized that I slightly misrepresented what the label actually says. It’s odd. “SL 1000” is a kind of subtitle on the label on my unit. It is in small lettering under the title of “UNIMAT.”
Hello Steamer Edge. Thanks for this great video and started looking at the others which will be invaluable. Just about to have a Unimat SLdelivered and was looking at the extras that I might need. I see the lathe steady offered a couple of times onEbay and wonder if you have ever found the need for one? Cheers
Thanks, I do have a Steady Rest for my Unimat SL but I must confess that I have never used it. Most of my turning operations are well under 100 mm in length and I find that using the live centre on the Tailstock is almost always sufficient to prevent the work from flexing. If possible I try to avoid turning long pieces of work which may flex during machining, but I'm sure I will need to use the Steady Rest at some stage ....
A very nice little lathe and nice attachment too. I like the indexing attachment and the collet holder. I can think of many applications for these. Are you able to cut threads on the Unimat?
Hi Les, thanks, yes, I also have the UNIMAT Thread Chasing attachment with a number of the interchangeable thread pattern bushings. This attachment is all new, purchased by the original owner of my Lathe, back in the early 1970's, and it has never been used. Up to the present I have just found it much easier to use a Die, held up against the Tailstock, using the drill chuck mounted on the Tailstock as a steady-holder pushed up against the Die when I'm cutting threads. I don't have a Tailstock Die holder. I really must try-out the UNIMAT Threading attachment sometime. Yes, the Indexing and Dividing head is extremely useful and versatile. It is definitely one of my favourite attachments for the UNIMAT :-)
When using the Unimat as a vertical mill, the plain, un-painted melt is exposed that would normally be hidden under the head stock when used it as a lathe. Do you know if there is an extra part that can be put in place to cover the non-painted part of the base while using it as a vertical mill? This would be a purely decorative addition. I have been looking, but I have not been able to find anything like that. As I plan to use mine primarily as a vertical mill, it would be nice to give the base a more finished look.
Hi, no, I'm not aware of any sort of part like that for Unimat lathes. It would be very simple to make some sort of cover out of thin rubber ( or whatever material you like ) which fits neatly over the profile of the exposed metal section.
Hi, I don't take deep cuts with this lathe. If the work is pulling out of the chuck you are trying to work to fast and will probably eventually damage the chuck and the lathe. One full rotation of the cross slide hand wheel or the longitudinal feed hand wheel advances the tool tip approx 0.99 mm on my UNIMAT SL. To maintain accuracy and to minimize stress on the lathe I take progressive light cuts, advancing the tool tip about 0.05 on brass and aluminium and probably less, about .03 on steel. Lubricate the work frequently when cutting steel. You eventually get a "feel" through the hand wheels for the way the lathe tool is cutting the work. Also make sure the you have the right turning speed, if in doubt select a slower speed. Be patient. I plan carefully to keep the amount of machining to a minimum. Enjoy your machining, Cheers Paul
Hi there. Do you have any extra accessories for the Unimat SL? I have two, one standard and one with the threading attachment but I am still in need of a few accessories.
Hi, unfortunately no, I do not wish to sell or dispose of anything. My Unimat is in constant use and I find it an advantage to have a range of spares and duplicate items on hand when needed. Just keep looking - try Garage Sales, Flea markets Tool Auctions , Networking with other model Engineers and your favourite Used Goods online websites. Eventually you will find what you are looking for.
Hello, yes, they are genuine Unimat 3 jaw no.1001 and 4 jaw no. 1001a chucks. The Chucks were sold separately as accessories at the time the Unimats were marketed.
hello steamerEdgeI just bought an emco unimat sl lathe and see you also in south africa I wanted to find out accessories for it in SA si]uch as the milliing table or chucks thanks
There is no local South African supplier but the complete lathes with accessories and, sometimes, individual UNIMAT parts are often found on websites like GUMTREE, Bid or Buy, EBAY and at local Flea markets, Toy Collectors Fairs, Garage sales etc. The EMCO UNIMAT lathes were very well marketed in South Africa in the 1960's 70's and 80''s and many complete 2nd Hand machines and 2nd Hand accessories are still around if you keep looking.
That looks promising. Is it possible to make threads (metric) with this machine? Is so, what pitches are possible? I am looking for a mini lathe just the size like this, with great stability and precission. Unimat SL, would probably work very well for me, but I think converting motor to variable constant speed brushless motor plus some tachometer would make it even more versatile, and safer (one can program controller to shut off the motor if too high torque/load is detected, and one could remove the pulleys or cover them with some sheet metal so one doesn't accidently touch them in operation). Should be easy conversion. I see that the tool post doesn't have a compound angle adjustement scale. So making tapers looks to be impossible. I want to be able to make small parts in plastic, wood, aluminium, brass and steel. 10cm length piece max. and pieces between 2 and 20mm most of the time, but ability to clamp something up to 50-100mm in diameter would be very useful. I.e. something like M1 screws as a smallest part probably, and cut threads in them accurately. Ability to convert into small mill or press drill is really useful for me too. But I think I need power feed screw for making threads, so nope. :( Maybe emco Unimat 3 (P03) could work.
Thanks for your comment. Yes, I have a Unimat thread-chasing attachment which was available as an accessory. I have seen them for sale on Ebay. I also have Unimat thread pattern bushings for this attachment in 0.7mm, 08mm ,1.0mm and 1.5 mm. Not sure what pitch they are but it is a probably a standard metric thread pitch. I must confess through that I have hardly ever used my Unimat thread-chasing attachment because it is much quicker, and easier, to set-up taps and dies for threading on the Unimat.The Unimat SL has the ability to rotate the angle of the Headstock for Taper Turning. I have used this feature very successfully and it is possible to achieve a very accurate taper cut with this lathe.The Unimat 3 was introduced directly after the Unimat SL and there were many improved features when compared to the SL. The SL's weakest point is probably the size and power output of the motor. however this small output motor feature is probably built-in to prevent the Unimat SL Lathe from being for turning work which is beyond the size of the lathe. With patience and sharp lathe tools you can achieve very accurate turning a over a range of metals with the Unimat SL .
Hello. I see tailstock is threaded. So it means it doesnt have any morse taper inside it? Not even morse1 or morse2 taper? Just threaded tools are attached to it? For example can you attach live center tailstock chuck? How stable is whole lathe base? How precise stuff its able to do? Does it work with steel also well? Any vibrations?
Hi, yes, only threaded attachments can be used on the Tailstock. The Unimat SL does not use the Morse taper system as per other Lathes . As shown in the video the Unimat has a live centre attachment which can be used with the tailstock. As I said in the video my Unimat SL cuts mild steel and cast iron but using the correct turning speed, sharp lathe tools and taking very light cuts is essential. In my opinion the UNIMAT SL is very accurate and I note that I have been able to work more accurately with it as I have gained more experience.
The standard UNIMAT SL Tool post is height tip-height adjustable. My quick height adjustment tool post came with my lathe from its previous original owner. The original owner may have made the modification himself or had it done by another model engineer. It is a relatively simple modification to make and I have seen other variations of this tool post mod featured in old Model Mechanic and Model Engineer magazine articles from the 1950's and 60's. Have a look at the Model Engineer magazine website many of the old archived articles are free for download and viewing.
Hi, the fine height adjustment modification on my Unimat SL Tool post is a Do-it-Yourself modification by the original owner of my lathe. It is a relatively simple modification to make and I have seen other variations of this tool post modification featured in old Model Mechanic and Model Engineer magazine articles from the 1950's and 60's. Have a look at the Model Engineer magazine website, many of the old archived articles are free for download and viewing.
A good question, the Chuck is often stuck fast on many of the old Unimats. The chuck keys are just two pieces of hardened 4 mm diameter bar which are 60 mm long. The chuck is screwed onto the drive spindle with a 12 mm metric thread. To unscrew the chuck, remove the drive spindle belt, insert one key in the hole which goes right through the drive spindle just short of the chuck thread and insert the other key into the hole on the splined flange of the chuck itself . You then apply the force necessary to move the two keys apart by hand and unscrew the chuck . Do not try to brace the two keys against the lathe bed bars or the carriage slide or anywhere else on the lathe as this will almost certainly cause severe damage, use the two keys in your hands. If the chuck is stuck apply a rust breaking lubricant to the chuck thread from the tail stock side through the hole inside the chuck jaws taking care not to get the lubricant on the outside of the chuck.
Hi. Thanks very much for this video. I've just acquired a DB200, which I am intending to use as a vertical mill to complement my Cowells lathe, but it came without the pinion lever. Could you please let me know the outside diameter needed, so I can make myself a new one. Thanks
Hi, the lever base is a round bar 12mm diameter 60mm long. The lever handle which fits into the base is round bar 5mm diameter 95 mm long with 20mm diameter ball at the one end. The lever base has 10 longitudinal profiled gear splines around the circumference of the bar, starting from the machine end to a length of 34mm along the bar base. The depth and profile of these splines is very precise and I recommend that you try to find someone with a Unimat lever near you and take accurate measurements of the depth, spacing and profile of these splines. These gear splines could be made on a Milling machine using a dividing head for spacing and the right size, depth milling cutter. Could also be done on a lathe if you have a vertical slide for milling. Search for "Unimat DB/SL Pinion & Hand lever" for sale on Ebay
@@SteamerEdge Thanks for the info and comments. I know I could buy one, but it seems a bit defeatist to not even try to make my own. I made a gauge to match the headstock rack, and ground a single point tool to accurately match that. With some 12mm bar in the rotary table I think I'm good to go! I'll let you know what happens Thanks also for the inspiration from your channel. I think the 30 or so steam engines I have now built are largely as a result of finding your videos
Unfortunately these lathes are now no longer manufactured . Complete used UNIMAT lathes with accessories and, sometimes, individual UNIMAT parts are often found on websites like GUMTREE, Bid or Buy, EBAY and at Flea markets, Toy Collectors Fairs, Garage sales etc. The EMCO UNIMAT lathes were very well marketed world wide in the 1960's 70's and 80''s and many complete 2nd Hand machines and 2nd Hand accessories are still around if you keep looking.
Hi, the Unimat SL is a very capable miniature lathe. In my opinion, you will get the optimum use out of this lathe by using it primarily for model making projects in miniature. You can make the required cutting tools from tool steel yourself or your can purchase tool holders with replaceable cutting tips.
I can see the adjustable tool post is not the standard one that comes with the lathe. Did you purchase it separately ( if so what make is it) or did you adapt an existing tool post. Thanks again for your help. Best wishes Ian
The standard UNIMAT SL Tool post is height tip-height adjustable. My quick height adjustment toll post came with my lathe from its previous original owner. The original owner may have made the modification himself or had it done by another model engineer. It is a relatively simple modification to make and I have seen other variations of this tool post mod featured in old Model Mechanic and Model Engineer magazine articles from the 1950's and 60's. Have a look at the Model Engineer magazine website many of the old archived articles are free for download and viewing.
Hi, I was just wondering if you could help me with a problem I’m having with this lathe, the motor rotates in a wrong direction, how could I change it back to normal? Electricity is not my secret power, so any advice would be much appreciated, thank you very much! Best regards
Hello, the lathe motor should rotate in an anti-clockwise direction. Reversing the polarity ( reversing the connection of negative and positive leads from the power source ) should change the direction of rotation. Be sure to disconnect power leads from the power source before working on them. Live power leads are extremely dangerous, I strongly recommend that you get a friend who is a qualified electrician to assist you with this. Regards Paul
Thanks for a great video. I inherited a Unimat from my late father in law. Your channel is a great knowledge source. Thank you PS are you South African?
@@SteamerEdge I also inherited a Unimat DB200 (the American version of the SL) and I've been trying to find videos on how to use it properly. I turned mine on, and I don't know how long it's been off, it sounded fine at first then a little rough. I guess I'll have to carefully take it apart and check the bearings and such. Thank you for your video. It was a great help.
Hello! I've been given one of those, but it misses the drill chuck. I disassembled a drill i had laying around, but it seems to be that it has a special drill chuck. Can you please tell me the measurements of the thread, to buy another one or find an adaptor or something... Thanks in advance!
Hi, the UNIMAT headstock and tailstock threads are the same. That is a Metric M12 X1 thread for any attachments like a drill chuck. The Unimat SL came with a 0 -6.5 mm drill size capacity Drill chuck. I also have a slightly bigger 1.5 mm to 10mm drill size capacity Jacobs Drill Chuck. Check out sites like Ebay and Gumtree - 2nd hand Unimat and Jacobs drill chucks often come up for sale.
Hi, sorry, I am not familiar with that term. I do have a Steady Rest for the Unimat to support longer work pieces. Not shown in the video. Another way to support a longer work piece is to use the Live Centre at the Tailstock end.
Sorry for being so late to this but I believe you meant to ask if you can stick workpieces through the headstock of the lathe and the answer to that would be no
Hi, Websites like Ebay, Gumtree etc. are the best bet. RDG Tools carry some Unimat items but very limited. Also garage sales and Backyard Engineering workshops. Many backyard workshop owners who have larger machines have one of these little lathes stashed away unused. You just have to network with them and make a deal :-)) regards Paul
Hi, the easy height adjustment Tool Post came with my lathe from its previous original owner. The original owner may have made the modification himself or had it done by another model engineer. It is a relatively simple modification to make and I have seen other variations of this tool post modification featured in old Model Mechanic and Model Engineer magazine articles from the 1950's and 60's. Have a look at the Model Engineer magazine website - many of the old archived articles are free for download and viewing.
nice video. i love your tool post, do you have plans available for the tool post? :) recently i do purchase the unimat lathe MK-2 with cast iron body, and need a lot of restoration. it's not quite clear the manufacturing date of unimat MK-2.
Thanks, the quick height adjustment tool post is a relatively simple modification to make and I have seen other variations of this tool post modification featured in old Model Mechanic and Model Engineer magazine articles from the 1950's and 60's. Have a look at the Model Engineer magazine website many of the old archived articles are free for download and viewing.
Hi, Emco stopped manufacturing miniature lathes in the mid 1980's. Only second hand Unimat Lathes and accessories are available world-wide now. To find a web page showing a detailed history of the manufacture of all Unimat models and accessories type " Emco Unimat lathes - Lathes Co " on the Google search bar. Complete Unimat lathes with accessories and, sometimes, individual UNIMAT parts are often found on 2ND hand websites like EBAY, GUMTREE and at various Flea markets.
Hello; I have identical Unimat SL Motor as yours on the video. Suddenly the fuse (in our house security fuse cabinet) went off. I checked manually that the motor turns smooth, turned ON the engine, but once again the fuse went off. Any tips about what might be the reason, typical problems with this engine, and what to do? Best regards Einar (Oslo Norway)
Hi, yes, this has happened to me before when the motor was very hot after a lot of use. These little Unimat motors have an automatic overheating override thermal mechanism inside to prevent the motor form being destroyed by overheating. This mechanism is thermally activated when the motor overheats and it turns the motor off. If you try to switch the motor on again after this has happened your earth leakage on your home electricity supply will trip. Allow the motor a few hours to cool down completely and you will see that it will switch on again without any problems. If this fails try removing the brushes by carefully unscrewing the brush retaining screws on the back sides of the motor and cleaning the carbon brushes gently with a dry brush. Be sure to put the brushes and the retaining springs back on the same sides as before and in the correct way after cleaning. Hope this helps :-))
I had the same problem the motor would that hot you could not touch it, speed would start to slow down then the fuse tripped, worked again when the motor was cold. I opened (stripped) the motor and found that there was a massive build up of carbon dust inside the motor, 40 odd years old, any wonder. Cleaned it out and the motor can run under load for a couple of hours and now only gets slightly warm. If you strip yours make sure to polish the commutators and clean the grooves. Geniet jou draaibank
Hi, I live in Cape Town. Thanks for your interest in my video, I have a follow-up video about the Unimat SL Lathe to be posted later this week. It may address some of your questions - Paul
Thanks for the informative video, I'm actually looking at getting myself a small lathe and found some UNIMAT's on Gumtree. Do we have local suppliers for accessories like the 4 jaw chucks here in SA? or will I need to import?
Thanks for watching. As far as I am aware 2nd hand market sites, like Gumtree, are the only source for Unimat Lathes, with and without accessories, in SA The UNIMAT lathes appeared in SA from the 1960's onwards and were well marketed here. You just have to keep looking. I think the SL model was discontinued by the manufacturers in the late 1980's but miniature Unimat lathes continued to be well marketed world wide until the late 1990's. I was lucky enough to acquire my lathe with accessories from the original owner 10 years ago. The original owner purchased it in SA in the early 1970's
Hey SteamerEdge. I live in Durban, and after watching your videos I decided to buy a Unimat SL for myself. I absolutely love my little machine, But could you let me know where you buy the belts for the lathe ?
Hi, I got my polyurethane belt material from Belting Ware located in Maitland, Cape Town. there should also be other suppliers in S.A. which could be nearer to you. Just search for "Belting Ware Cape Town "on Google. You need a 4mm round Polyurethane belt, the belt is sold by the meter and you will have to join it yourself.
You can also get it from this link: www.ebay.com.au/itm/Green-100CM-Length-4MM-Diameter-PU-Round-Belt-for-Groove-Pulley-Drive/273156505373?epid=17017998228&hash=item3f99657f1d:g:DDgAAOSw7eda~ikh
Salve Asse originale dove montare il mandrino si trova in commercio? Io ne ho una , con quasi gli stessi pezzi messa da parte perché a un problema , gira fuori centro. Una bella macchinetta. Ciao
Grazie, queste parti Unimat saltano occasionalmente su Ebay, ma sono molto costose. C'era anche un sito web americano www.tomstoolparts, che si concentrava sulle parti Unimat. Non sono sicuro che siano ancora in affair.
Hello I have the same lathe but mine is making so much more noise. I think something is touching something inside the motor. What do you think it could be? Thanks and nice video!
Thanks, If you think the strange noise is coming from the motor it may mean that the bearings.at each end of the motor shaft are worn and failing. The motor also has spring loaded brushes which press up against the rotor contacts. Excessive brush wear or incorrect brush installation may cause a noise. You can also check that the system of drive belt pulleys between the motor and the headstock spindle is in good order and running freely without any binding.
Have you ever replaced the carbon brushes in the motor of your Unimat SL? If so, where did you get those brushes. They don't seem to be available anymore. Thanks.
No, and, fortunately, I have a spare set. I have seen UNIMAT motor brushes on Ebay before. I suggest you just keep looking at 2nd hand market websites - Gumtree, Craig''s list, Ebay etc. You can also try typing "TOMSTOOLSTORE" on the Google search bar. This USA website used to have a number of UNIMAT parts for sale - including complete UNIMAT motors.
Always Remember to go to An Older Mom An pops Style Electric Motor Repair Place They Will Usually Sell You Similar Or make Custom Brushes By Finding Close Off Shelf And Machining Down the Excess carbon/graphite brushes are easy to machine dremels at high speed an sand paper work best if you wanna give it a go its easy really an a skill worth learning
Thanks., The 3 Jaw Chuck can be mounted on the Cross Slide by using a UNIMAT attachment called the T-Slotted Adapter Stud, This attachment originally came with the UNIMAT 3 Jaw Chuck. I will be featuring this UNIMAT T-slotted adapter stud and other questions and issues on a forthcoming ""FAQ for the UNIMAT"" video on my SteamerEdge channel. You could also make this attachment yourself or get a good model engineer to make one for you. Start with a piece of good quality 12 mm X 12mm square bar steel which should be an exact fit for the T section in the cross slide. Turn the first 15mmm of one end of the square bar to a cylinder diameter correct for threading to the 3 jaw chuck leaving just enough Square bar section to accurately fit the 3.5 mm Square Slot section on the cross slide. Then thread the end 10mm of the turned down section to the exact Thread diameter to fit the back of the 3 Jaw chuck. Then turn down the un-threaded cylinder 4 mm section between the Square section and the threaded section to an exact fit for the 4 mm groove in the cross slide.
I noticed the tool post, it looks like what Mr. Walter Maisey (another very good channel by an exceptionally experienced machinist ) uses on his Taig, except it does not have the ratchet mechanism. Very clever design! Did you make it or is it an Emco unit? Is it a QCTP design or do you replace the tools in the holder as you work? I have a lot of books about small machine tools, and can recommend Rex Tingey´s books in particular, both are very good, but hard to find at a decent price. Thanks for sharing!
The tool post is an early original Unimat design, I have noticed that the tool posts on many of the Unimat lathes I have seen do not have this fine setting feature on the tool post. It is not a QCTP . I do have one of Rex Tingey's excellent books "Making the most of the UNIMAT"" about advanced machining on the Unimat SL and the Unimat 3. A very useful book on the Unimat if you can find one. I believe it is based on many of the articles he wrote for ME in the 1950'/ 60's
I found mine on ebay, but one has to look for a long time to find one at a decent price. Most are crazy expensive. Especially "projects for the Unimat" it is the most fun book, with some steam engine projects. Also, when subscribing to Model Engineer, one gets access (or used to anyway) to some pdf files of old scanned magazines. I that bunch is a magazine called Model Mechanics (mainly marketed to the tiny lathe owner, lots of cool projects in fact!), Tingey wrote all the articles for that magazine that are in the books. So that is a way to get them too. Very small difference between the articles and the chapters in the books.
Looked around and found some info about that type of TP: www.toolsandmods.com/lathe/mini-lathe-qctp and here www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=11851
Hi. As SteamerEdge has noted below his was made by the previous owner of the lathe. It's a variation of the Nixon Patent design with dimensions to suit the Unimat. If you search online you'll see lots of photos but you'll need to work out the specifics yourself.
Unscrew the three screws which attach the 3-jaw-chuck faceplate to the back of the chuck, the faceplate will detach complete with the jaws. The chuck is then attached to the indexing head using three screws but you need screws which are the same thread but slightly longer than the original chuck screws. these longer screws are usually supplied with the indexing head. The chuck jaws can still be opened and closed in the usual way when the chuck is on the indexing head.
Hi, congratulations on your acquisition. There is no local supplier but the complete lathes with accessories and, sometimes, individual UNIMAT parts are often found on GUMTREE and at various Flee markets in S.A. The EMCO UNIMAT lathes were very well marketed in S.A. in the 1960's 70's and 80''s and many complete machines and accessories are still around if you keep looking. Examine all 2ND hand UNIMATS lathes and accessories very carefully before buying because these lathes were often abused due to their small size. The previous owners invariably try to turn work which is well beyond the capacity of the lathe. I found two complete UNIMAT lathes with accessories 2ND hand for a very reasonable price a few years ago.