i really like the direction in which your bike enthusiasm is taking you. I have honestly only ever heard one other motorcyclist brag about buying fixer-uppers cheap, putting in the work, and ending up with a custom-for-you bike. Its awesome, and I hate that most riders just throw money at every problem, because my low social and economic status really fills out what has turned out to be a great hobby.
Quick shifter getting stuck - you might want to play around with the shift linkage and try different heights. It worked for me and my Norden 901, now I get good clutchless shifts up and down at any gear. Clipons too short - this might require some work, but I've seen other people extend their handlebars by tapping a thread into the Yamaha clipons, then inserting a long bolt without a head that sticks out from the clip on. You can then cut out an inch from your old clip ons, tap a tread into it, and screw it on to the extra bolt threads, Exhaust popping too much - leaks in the exhaust system can cause excessive popping, especially if the leak is at the headers. You can check that all headers are seated properly on the cylinder head without any leak. Then check downstream from there. Anyway, great build man. Nice to have seen it through.
Good to hear those pops and bangs give you a headache. It warms my heart to think that every other knob out there driving with pops and bangs on his road bike, riding around the city has a headache.
The Quick-shifter issue may just be the angle it's mounted at. Ideally you want both linkages to be at 90 degrees, It's also worth grabbing some electrical component cleaner (or brake cleaner in a pinch) and spraying it clean.
If you haven't been inside of that transmission don't rule out a bent shift arm or a damaged shift drum as the cause of your QS getting stuck. We have that come up every once in awhile on the 600RR forums and it's usually something internal. Pops and bangs, are you SURE there are no vacuum leaks or exhaust leaks in the SC pipe? Find a stock exhaust pipe and install it along with a stock air filter. See if the pops and bangs goes away.
Hi Chaos, i heard what you were saying on those clip-ons, the thing is that you are missing bar end weight ! With them, you can have half of your hand resting on the weight, and the other half on the grip This is where the extra length went. It's the same on every yamaha sportbikes
Disable / remove your air injection system and it will pop and bang WAY less. Those AIS dump fresh air into the exhaust to burn unburnt fuel. No problem with stock exhausts. Bangs and pops with aftermarket.
I had an MT10 with exhaust and tune. Got a refresh tune to add a blipper and had pops and bangs after that were unintended. I needed to plug the pair valve and boom, no more excessive pops and bangs! Great video as always!
the suspension is just a setting thing... i dont know what your problem is...just check what preload you need and then open up the compression and rebound until you like it
NUMBER 5! I know some people will say I'm being stupid. But listen here. Go to a guy that works with steel. Anyone. Take that aftermarket clip ons and the new ones, and say to him that you want the beauty ones to be longer. He will chop some part of the aftermarket to go inside the originals with a godd bit protruding out. And in that outer part he'll just smash together the rest of the aftermarket one. When doing this, add some sort of glue, like epoxi. I've been riding downhill bikes with extensions for over 10 years, it'll be just fine.
I also got me an ex-track bike, tho a triumph speed triple 1050.. it was geared insanely and reved like 6-7k at 100kmh 😂 bad clip-ons and almost straight piped. Its fun tho :)
As a former Yamaha user (FZ 1, MT-09) pops and bangs comes from factory with the AIS system. As long as you replace the exhaust, you get the pops and bangs. In order to stop them, it's not enough to do it in the ECU, but you need to mechanically block the AIS system, with block off plates or with a plug in the air pipe coming from the air filter. I would try that if I was you. For the Mt-09 we manage to put a switch on the AIS relay, to turn on and off the pops and bangs.
I've had ASV levers on my Ducati Monster for about 7 years and they're the best levers I've ever used. 180 clicks between max and min and about 4 inches span adjustment. Oh, and I tested the "unbreakable" claim too when the bike fell over. The lever folded up without even a scratch. Highly recommended.
Moore Mafia would say you need to "block off your pair valves" or shove a marble in that small intake tube. to get rid of the pops and bangs, I really love how that sounds.
I can relate. I bought a track bike about 3 years ago with the idea to make it "Streetable" again, and I'm STILL working out some minor BS. I'd say it's only worth it if it's a bike you're very passionate about. Otherwise, just pay more for a nice un-modded version \m/
The noise is coming from the PAIR system, it injects fresh air directly into the engine where the exhaust headers meet the block. This causes the explosions that you hear. With a normal (CATed) exhaust you wouldn’t hear it. You can thank the EU for all bikes having this now. Just remove the system or block it off and you’re golden.
I think that even though your main concern isn’t noise from the engine but the pops and bangs, you’d still benefit from getting rid of that alibaba sc project and getting a slightly more muffled exhaust or one with a baffle in it to absorb it
The biggest issue on the r1 brakes after the ABS is the pads, just a pad swap alone helps yamahas so much even with abs. They are too weak till they grab, then when they do they grab they hold too much and slip in a juddery way when they let go
The speed is determined by the abs rings on the wheels, so the only thing that can hinder or cause differences in displayed speed and actual speed is tire size. Meaning if you run a 120/70 and a 200/55 you should be reading accurately unless the ecu has been delved into more than needed.
Hey at least with the all the pops and bangs from the exhaust, if you're ever in Edenvale side I can find you and say hello, so think of it as an attraction for fan interaction.
For the pops and bangs fix, you have to block the AIS system. Have you considered block off plates or the marble mod? That would definitely stop it from that.
It's post-engine combustion, due to oxygen being fed through the ports into the exhaust stream, which no longer has a catalyst and doesn't need oxygen. An ECU flash would eliminate the fault code you'll get with a disabled AIS system, but it won't stop the post-engine exhaust combustion until you physically block off the source of oxygen that feeds the exhaust system after the engine exhaust valves. "Pops and bangs tunes" are the programming of stupid tuners who care nothing of customer's engines and exhaust life; it's a sales gimmick of perceived value and should never be done. Any tuner that's allowing raw unburned gasses into the exhaust for post-engine combustion is a MORON.
I'd be more apt to spend reasonable money on a middle-displacement street bike, and rip the engine out to give to a builder, extract another 20 horsepower with machining and cams, compression, pistons and rods, valve job, porting, etc. and then spend a heap more money on custom carbon fiber wheels, ceramic bearings, and a lot of weight-reduction features. And when all completed, end up spending less than a new superbike and have something extremely unique, high performance, and a sleeper to most of the riding public. But I'm quirky like that. Chaos Causes: send your ECU to 2wheeldynoworks. You'll solve every operating problem, GUARANTEED. If your bike has AIS, it's feeding oxygen into the exhaust causing post-engine combustion. Nothing about it is good for the exhaust system or the exhaust valves.
yamahas have an (ais)system which causes an after market exhaust to excessively pop and bang you can buy a blanking kit for it and you can fit it without having to take engine out which cuts down on popping ALOT hope this helps
My completely stock XSR900, with the stock exhaust, pops and bangs to my endless irritation. And at idle the top of the engine pops continuously; since my Ford Maverick has the exact same sound I assume it's the direct injection valves opening and closing. It's suppose to be Euro 5 compliant but it all sounds very mechanical. In contrast, my former GSXS1000 was incredibly quiet, so much so I put a bicycle bell on it so I can pass by pedestrians without scaring them with the normal horn.
That short and wide exhaust is always gonna be loud and get pops. Happened with mine. So I just switched to a 45cm larger Yoshimura exhaust. Way less pops. Since it’s a larger exhaust I got some small cats and zero pops now. A db killer also gets if someone wants it.
You sure the speedo doesn't read from the ABS/Wheel speed sensor? My 2017 FZ09 does. It could be a failing sensor or its mounted on the wrong side of the abs sensor bracket, placing it too far away from the trigger wheel. On the front ABS sensor on my FZ there is a bracket that holds the abs senor cable. It's common for people to accidently mount that between the abs sensor and the mounting point. My ABS light was freaking out before I corrected that.
The throttle error is likely due to dust n gunk getting in the throttle housing and interfering with the magnets, open it and clean it and u should be good to go, ive had a similar issue before
That short and wide exhaust is always gonna be loud and get pops. Happened with mine. So I just switched to a 45cm larger Yoshimura exhaust. Way less pops. Since it’s a larger exhaust I got some small cats
The pops could be because of a bad tps, if it detects a little throttle when decelerating it is going to give a tiny bit of throttle, which is the exact way 16 year olds on 125s with open headers make their bikes pop, so maybe swap that out, see if the race shop could give you a little deadzone so that it wont detect throttle
Here is my experience with modifications on electric or software level: they ALL SUCK. Whether it is a piggyback, power commander, quickshifter... all suck. A year later, when you take them out and ride the bike stock again, the bike will feel MUCH much better... I gave up on them for good.
I cant help but look at the tank and thinking it looks so naked. It looks a bit unfinished. A color matched decal would tie it in with the rest of the design. A Yamaha logo or even a matching tank protector. Cool project nevertheless!
@@exothermal.sprocket okay? Supersport aren't built for reliability. They're homolagation bikes that are made for racing and going super fast. Your better off with a touring bike if you don't like them. (Not saying straight pipes and ak47 sounds aren't annoying, but supersports are meant to be loud.)
@@exothermal.sprocket How? I explained that supersports aren't built for reliability in the first place. They're small 4 cylinder engines pushing plenty of power. Maybe if it was a honda, sure, I'd agree, because theyre downtuned from factory for reliability, but in the video, it's a yamaha, a company that is known to have powerful bikes from factory, and don't even get me started on ducati and aprillia. No one buys a Supersport for "reliability" and if you do, you're just dumb. Also, give me a solid reason. Or is it that you're offended by my comment or something (offended is a strong word, but you know what I mean). I wasn't trying sound rude, but at 14,000 rpm redline (typically), 186 mph - 300 kph from factory, Supersports are meant for speed and speed alone. If I were to see a honda goldwing, or a bmw gs1250 popping and banging, I'd say "that's stupid" but any Supersport I'd expect it. I know they don't pop from factory, but I think the last thing people are worried about when riding a Supersport with a pops and bangs tune is, "muh engine wear" while they're doing over 180 mph, bike screaming full blast down the road. Also, if you don't like your Supersport, which is pushing over 200hp or more, being loud, you dont have to ride it. You may come up with some complex argument against me, but tell me a dedicated sport bike that's built to last. Some go for tens of thousands of miles, but most have needed important parts replaced within that time frame. Don't even try to bring up older bikes. A 80s and 90s supersports don't even compare to modern ones in terms of power, and the only bikes that were as powerful, were built for racing, where parts break constantly, because guess what? They were built for speed. Im not trying to change your mind, Im just trying to get my point across. I'm open to any criticism or argument. (If you don't wanna read all this, you don't have to. Feel free to just pick out certain parts and focus on those, as it seems you only read the first sentence of my original reply anyway.)
Pops and bangs is AIS - can be solved by blocking off the air tube going back to the airbox... its very unlikley to be the cam really. AIS is the first thing the mechanic should shut off.
@@carcassryzu The difference between a good tuner and a lousy rotten tuner is just as possible and as consequential as a good nutritional doctor and a big pharma shill doctor.
abs isnt the problem with the wooden feel of the R1, its the cheap shit nissin calipers. If you get good calipers aka brembo, the brake power is beyond amazing, with abs as well
Maybe a dumb question but are the AIS system blocked or inactivated in the ECU? If it´s not the bike always pops and bangs on decel with an aftermarket exhaust.
