Attempted climb of Alpamayo early July, 2018. We only made it to the high col camp. After 3 people lost their lives the weekend before on the French Direct route due to an avalanche triggered by an ice fall from the flute we were careful to gather more info about the climb on our way in from people coming out including the Argentinian survivor. While it appeared the formation on the flute was one that was a known concern and was gone there were still mushrooms on the route that were additional hazards. Plus the evening before our climb attempt a snowstorm rolled in and dumped a fresh layer of snow on the route and we could see new cornices at the top forming. With 3 more days of snowstorms in the forecast our weather window was gone so we descended and had enough time for an easy climb of Vallunaraju on our way out.
8 сен 2024
