Tip: use round toothpicks or something similar to line up the card with the block. Just insert them into a few screw holes as guides. Once block is in place, just pull them out and put your screws back in.
This looks great, suprised I've just heard of it. The aio should be way more popular for gpu's. This could be an alternative since g-12 don't necessarily work for the newer graphic cards
I really enjoyed the little sections about how to pronounce correctly the different German words, that should be a real trend on the channel, i'm always happy to learn beyond my range :)
This is SO true. I started out with a 280 aio, moved to an open loop with a thick 420 radiator and two thick 360 radiators as well. How did I get here?
Yeah hopefully its cheaper than the first one, but even still. I planned on getting on of the Eisbaer CPU block/pump/res things and a full GPU block that way it was easier to use long term, but this is still a cool option. Hopefully it's available in NA soon too Edit: nvm its on the NA page now lol
Ahhhhhhh..... visitors...... no, we dont like them, we have to work :-P Wenn du vorbeikommen würdest, könntest du nicht viel von der Firma sehen außer dem Eingang, die Sessel und unsere Kaffeeecke. In den restlichen Räumen liegen zu viele Dinge herum die unter NDA laufen da wir hier in Braunschweig ja nur die Entwicklung, Marketing und den Support haben. Und da diese Bereiche sensibel sind.... Datenschutz.... neue Produkte ect.... geht da leider nichts.
wow, thanks for this review. Looks way worse than I would have thought in normal position. Would def want it vertically mounted. I wish there were more replacement options. My Zotac fans on my 2080 ti are driving me nuts
New to PC gaming and have a 6800xt Nitro + and thinking of water cooling it. Where/when do you add the water as you've let some out in detaching the hoses? I assume the water stays in its own circuit hence no need for any gasket between the CPU and silver portion of the Eiswolf?
@@Sabrinahuskydog you really don't pay attention do you. Alphacool literally encourages buyers to combine the eiswolf with the aurora AIO's. So yes. It comes down to a closed loop of two, yes TWO AIO's so that also means TWO radiators.
did you have any issues with bubbles and flow? my gpu block is full of bubbles. temps are the same as the air cooler. and i can not see any water actually flowing through the gpu block.
One question, because I think that for those who are used to alphacool it is logical and it is not even mentioned, when you open the circuit the liquid does not spill completely. I have to assume that it has a closure system that only opens when it is screwed in???
Hey, i know this is an old video but how did you fit the water block on PNY XLR8 2080 ti? I have the same card and when trying to install the block, there are some components behind the power connectors that are too tall and makes it impossible to secure the block without bending the PCB?
your radiator is incorrectly orientated in the front. tubes should be on the bottom or you could have unwanted bobbling noises not to mention poorer performance in terms of cooling capability.
How is the longevity on this AIO cooler? I've heard issues with the previous Eiswolf model in the past, breaking down after a few months. I recently got an EVGA RTX 3080 Ti FTW3 card and am trying to decide between the Eiswolf 2 or the EVGA Hybrid Kit, but I really like the aesthetics of the Eiswolf 2.
These coolers are installed incorrectly, the CPU one should be installed on top (The way its mounted now their is air bubbles at the top of the radiator where the hoses are allowing air in the system, most likely leading to higher CPU temps/loud pump because of air/bad for the pump) and the GPU radiator should be installed in the front (radiator mounted to the front with the hoses oriented at the bottom, making sure the top of there radiator is higher then the GPU allowing air to collect at the top of the radiator and not interfering with the water flow).
Hello. I have Question. I bought this AIO for my Asus Strix RTX 3090. Can i plug the Pump Header in any 12V Slot on my Mainboard because my AIO Pump Connector for the CPU Cooler is already in use. I still have the CHA 4 Connection available. Also will i have to make any adjustments in Bios to make the Pump run at 100% ? Kind Regards.
Why in gods name didn't you connect the Eisbaer and the Eiswolf? that's the whole reason for buying them.. especially interesting would be to see the difference between one and two radiators in the loop.
Leo why didnt you try swapping the rads over if they use the same connectors? connect the 360 to the gfx and 240 to the CPU. may have benefited from the larger area on the rad.
The reason this tubing is used is because it's VERY resilient to heat, cold, fluids, kinks etc. It's basically to help those who will use this kind of item, those who are looking for a cheap water-cooling solution :)
Why not buy the cheapest possible 2080ti rather than one that had a big cooler on it and would imagine wasn't the cheapest? Also, when you undo the pipes and water comes out, doesn't it need to be fairly full? I would have thought any air/air bubbles in the loop is bad since that won't cool it. What if you lose a lot of it when undoing it. Anyway, nice video. But I'm not sure it is worth £180.
Well, a plastic pin came out of the pump not to long after I bought it...But it worked fine for months.....I decided to sell it since I damaged my 2080 ti during a shunt mod removal...buy yes...the eiswolf kept working and the buyer I sold it to was happy with it.
Ok so Intel Core 10900KF has TDP of 125 watts and it gets a 360mm radiator. The PNY RTX 2080 Ti XLR8 Gaming 11GB has a TDP of 260 watts and gets a 240mm radiator... checks out I guess.
Seems to work but is he Fugliest thing I've ever seen done to a GPU. They need to sit down and rework that hose connect nonsense and the general aesthetic of the unit as a whole. Nice for a quick easy GPU AIO however, so they do get a plus for that! Great video!
Nice job, I totally agree those hoses look horrible, very tacky. Some kind of hard line should help that. I did not hear you say if that is an option or not at least at this time. Thanks for the sacrifice of your cut fingers 😆
When removing the stock cooler didn't you take the backplate off AFTER you removed the cooler? So, while reinstalling the IceWolf, shouldn't the backplate go on BEFORE the waterblock? If the backplate came off last, there should be pass through holes for the cooler block screws.
i would enjoy more a Universal kit with spacing for VRM and Memory chips heatsink put separately. For more usage that one generation of GPU. I really like my Morpheus 2 precisely because I was able to use it on several cards(3) with very little moding.and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to use it on my next card in 2-3 years.
Wow, you only dropped temperatures using water to what an air cooler does on a open test bench? Where do I start? First, those 200mm fans don't push air, they move it. You need additional pull fans to actually get decent airflow through the radiator. Water-cooling should drop temps by ~20C, closer to 30C in your situation since that case sucks. Anyone with a AIO on their CPU and another on their GPU should really ponder their life choices. With the current power consumption on GPU's and CPUs open loop is really the only way to go. We need better cases for this, the currently available cases are crap. Twin 360's have become a minimum and 480's should really be an option. It's ridiculous there are not built in mounts for the popular pumps in places people would actually put pumps, or even cases with built in reservoirs, pump mounts, and custom fitted rads. Maybe something like the whole right side of the case has a radiator and shroud assembly that swing out with the door so you can work on the computer? A 300x300 rad should be enough. presentedillustrates casesbecauseYouTheretherecases
I'm having better temps with kraken g12 and h55 lol, this aio is a waste of money and if i wanted my 2080ti tu run at 40 degrees at load i would get 360mm rad... h55 did exceptionally well
Two major problems I see with this design. 1) the sag you're going to get from the extra weight of the pump will HAVE to be supported. 2) Again, the pump, it creates quite a lot of heat so having it near the block is never a good idea.....just look at AIO's temps compared to a custom loop.
@@AlphacoolGmbH 3W of power derived heat isn't ALL the heat. You have friction of the bearing and even the water hitting bends(yes I know, not a lot, but it's all additional heat). I would also say that pump motors get hot enough with continuous use to NEED a heatsink. Don't see one on that, and don't give me no crap about "but it's only 3W", with the liquid heat-soaking and the friction it soon builds up.
That's why ASATEK pumps don't last. I've had 1 Delphi pump die on me in 30 years, one of the first I had only lasted 5 years because I didn't et a heatsink kit to put on it. This is just my take mind, so take it too seriously. I came into watercooling just before Peltier and phase-change cooling got popular..... My standards for practicality are far higher than aesthetics.
@@JuxZeil To compare an Asetek pump with the DC-LT is far-fetched. One has nothing to do with the other. Most small pumps in an AIO die due to diffusion of the AIO's water cycle which causes the pump to get too little water and then the bearing will break rather than overheat and die.