Alternator Fuse Check this first, if new alternator is not charging. Shown on GMC Yukon Tahoe Sierra 

What happened next bro. I am not a mechanic or electrician. I got the same problem with you

@@rebellion6468😂😂😢😢

OMG BRO I JUST DID THE SAME THING CHANGING MINE FOR THE FIRST TIME 🤦🏾‍♂️🤦🏾‍♂️🤦🏾‍♂️🤦🏾‍♂️🤦🏾‍♂️🤦🏾‍♂️ ALMOST BLEW MYSELF UP 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

​@@cerithium5258Me too!

😊😂

O'reilly told me there's no such thing as an Alternator fuse, almost one month ago. 😥 My so- called bf is a mechanic & said he'd fix it... again...Ok?! I'm going to do it myself or trade it in. Seems he isnt trying, he certainly isn't impressing me!

@@charlotteclark6061 OMFG that's his damn job as ya BF. That is one of ya few perks ya get with a guy🙃

@@charlotteclark6061 I hope you are not annoying him in anyway way unless he is just overwhelmed or really not who he claims to be..

It’s called the main battery fuse

Where is the fuse

@@CrazyDescription on my 08 its on the passenger side at the back of the firewall

Interesting, I wasn’t aware of this. From what year does this pertain to ? Thanks

@@XxTimeToKillxX09 Since the early 2000s. Called Regulated Voltage Control.

That’s incorrect. If the voltage drops below 11.7 volts GM vehicles go into “battery saver mode” which cuts power to non essentials-air conditioning, charging ports, if it continues to drop then power is cut from stabilitracks, traction control, and eventually power steering. GM vehicles require 12 volts to run properly.

@@wesleypinson1553 Nope, wrong. Straight from the owner's manual on a 2017 Acadia: "The normal battery voltage range is 11.5 to 15.5 volts" From the service documentation, voltage-based idle boost 1 will not occur until battery voltage drops below 11 V as long as the battery temperature is above 5 F. If the BMS does not have a working current sensor, the system will let voltage go down as low as 10 V before idle boost 3.

The manual you are referring applies to a 4 or 6 cylinder engine. We are talking about 5.3 and a 6.2 V8s. Try looking at the correct manual next time. Battery Saver Mode activates under 11.7 volts. A 5.3 or 6.2 will NOT run properly at 11.5 volts.

did u ever figure out what was going on my 06 taho kind of doin same thing i charged the battery for about an hr an it started right turned it off it started right up 2 days later battery dead

@@raymondjohnson8522 no, I am continuing to drive it. Did find out I had a short with the fan switch. But I think in gonna take the alternator back, maybe the voltage regulator is the culprit.... Love my Chevys, but sometimes...🤔🤨it makes me crazy... Good luck with your Tahoe...

@@manuelbustos9334 please let me know when you find out the problem, I'm on my 3rd battery in my Yukon

Sorry for not seeing this message, Gmail isn't my primary email...this is connected to that platform. Anyhow, no I still haven't figured it out. Since she keeps turning over, I just didn't worry about as I should have. Did change out battery again, 3mo ago. Had AutoZone guy check, they said that my starter is probably the issue, but she starts up fine .. trying to save to get another starter, but until then, I've let it be... Hope you found your issue, again sorry for not keeping up with this entry...

Did it work

Lol not true at all but good job trying to sound like you knkw what youre talking about

Honestly parts hardly truly fail n general., Almost always something electrical based which causes the failing parts. Lots of people have no clue how to keep up with their vehicles. Vehicles are like having kids if you truly care, Any type of automotive wires used Oem will dry up and just snap apart after certain amount of years which causes things to run out of Engine timing parameters, and makes things Wear and tear at Extremely faster rate. Vehicles are so simple when kept up with, sooo difficult to play “catch up” on a beat up vehicle tho.

Ive replaced alternators in like every old truck ive ever had

😂😂😂 that literally could not be further from the truth. Especially the Chinese and Mexico alternators. Mexico has gotten a bit better but still. Lol.

Yes 👍🏼

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage dude you totally did not help this situation at all , the man asked u a important" key" question & you answer yes without telling him how to??? Really ,.. Wth

@@dewaynebraley2820 the question is answerable by SIMPLE yes or no. Unless you're the one who don't know how to do it then you can simply ask. No insult needed.

Yes

Did you end up finding problem? I'm having similar issue now

@@andrespaz989 yeah it was the voltage regulator in the ecm so I bypassed it and bought a external voltage regulator if you don't want to do that you will have to replace the ecm

@CoastalTexan29 thanks for reply. Will do some research into that. My problem just started out of the blue the other day. Everything was going fine 1 min then I get in, start like normal and instantly notice battery lights on, as well as the lights showing all my doors are open. I cancel my next order and start to head home and 30 seconds later I notice smoke coming from under hood. I pull over and its smoking BAD from what looks like the alternator. And then the battery instantly died, couldn't boost it off or anything, so I towed it home and I replaced alternator as well as the serptine belt and the battery test says its a good battery, but it's still not working. Full charge battery lasts maybe a few minutes and the machine says it's only getting around 2 volts (or amps?) when it should be over 14 from what I was told, but if I Rev engine up it goes up to near 10. Sorry for long reply, just wanted to explain incase you or anyone else who may read this knows of any other possible problems. The guy who put alternator on also used his meter to check if everything's getting power and he said it's showing power going from battery to alternator so I'm stumped, may not even be worth the $ to fix

@@andrespaz989 well I know the ecm or computer is a little expensive but my truck did somewhat the same battery gauge just jumped up showing it was over charging then when I pulled over killed it and the cranked it back up it was fine for about five miles then did it all over again replaced battery and new alternator but since it was my voltage regulator that was bad it wasn't telling my alternator to charge the battery so my battery wouldn't stay charged or the alternator would over charge

@@andrespaz989 ru-vid.com-KZY3fuHRW8?si=hsJqbm45nzbrO6Ow

Unfortunately, many new alternators are bad (that’s what happened in the end with this one). Here is a cheap tool to help test it Save your engine with this $10 tool! Test your Alternator! Voltmeter ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ct_ibCwNbQ4.html

You’ll need a multimeter to put in each end of the fuse to perform a continuity test ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PsS-90gB4As.html

It’s in the video description. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--BUzm-OeGhE.html

2006

The fuse can go either way. It may have been recorded upside down

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ok because I was worried because i took mine out and forgot the original orientation.. having problems with new alternator charging new battery

Try this Test car battery, alternator, alternator fuse, power draw with multimeter voltmeter ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-s98LpJFGg4A.html

Sometimes it’s part of the positive power wire, known as a “fusible link.” It’s not very common to blow out the high amp ones, but it is possible

he would have to buy a gmc envoy first tho

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--BUzm-OeGhE.htmlsi=SOWE0IZKjmz1lreh

Many new alternators are still bad

This article might help www.chryslerminivan.net/threads/replaced-alternator-still-not-charging.109722/

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage which posting? I still can’t tell if there’s a fuse for it?

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I searched thru all of the postings done with same problem but no solutions oh well

The regulator is within the alternator, so without opening it all up and looking to rebuild the alternator, I’m going to say no

Possibly fried your computer, any update on the fix?

@@_gw33do_ simplest fix. Lose battery cables.

@@SanguineBlackBlood good news 🙏🏼

Most likely it’s the alternator’s regulator. A smaller fuse would only chance blowing easier, but it would still work

It might be cracked, but if not, the best way is the continuity test ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--BUzm-OeGhE.html

Yeah, I believe it could

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I believe that was the problem battery light went out . When I put new end on it

Lethal Venom You’ll like this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0laLuFYHCU8.html

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Already watched it lol, Debated on going with a 3G wire kit or just upgrading the alternator to one of the better ones. Never planned on running a sound system or anything but I'm not sure what direction to go yet when I get to that mod process

Is the alternator showing 14V? If more it might be over-charging.

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage it's in the shop now 🤞🤞

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage they changed the ground cord to the battery and now it's reading at 14 but it goes slightly under 14 and over 14 is that okay?

@@chuckdiseal6008 hi man man I have the same problem the battery keeps dieing what happens with the ground when I change the new alternator is reading like 12 but is working but two weeks later the battery die again

@@jorick1986 the dealership changed my ground wire from the battery and it's working fine, please try it

It’s probably another bad alternator (regulator). If the fuse blew it wouldn’t work at all

Loose connection or corrosion at the fuse could be the issue as it was for mine.

Well after two reman alternators and a new belt and was still happening after loosing my mind I went and got a $40 dollar used alternator from lkq and that was the end of it no more problems offer that.

The best way is probably a continuity test ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-s98LpJFGg4A.htmlsi=NV_MyYH8-tEWGJhO

They do in some form. Some are inside a fuse box, some are part of the cable (called a fusible link) and some are like this with an inline fuse

You can do a continuity test if you have a voltmeter

Only if it’s bad. You can test it with a continuity test ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--BUzm-OeGhE.html

Mine has a maga fuse. Fuse for multiple things

If the fuse is good, I would also look into grounds. There should be a ground that goes from the engine to the frame and another for the battery to the frame. They can be just as important as the power cable. In the video, It ended up being a bad new alternator, so it happens

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thanks for the feedback. Do you happen to know where the alternator fuse is located on a 2004 Avalanche? I will also look into the grounds

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage well after alot of testing and head scratching I finally figure out the problem. It was a bad ground off the negative battery cable going to the frame. I have since added a ground from the negative side battery cable going to the firewall and all is working like it should! Thanks!!

was it the fuse

Did you end up finding problem? I'm having similar issue now

If you look at the battery cable for the positive side it has some built in fuse links. I also show other fuse locations in this video, but I don’t see the alternator since it’s probably the one on the battery cable ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6XxKA0wo_QQ.html

Did you end up finding problem? I'm having similar issue now

If the alternator and battery are good for sure, check the cables for power and ground. The engine also has ground cables to the frame

If you have one, yes

Did u fixed the problem?

Sometimes they have it as an inline fuse built into the actual wire known as a fusible link (google a pic)

Its been a while but I think it’s under the cover of the main fuse box in the hood. Take that metal corner brace off (held by 4 bolts) and the entire black case lifts off the fuse box (I think there was 2 or 3 small clips holding it down). Again it’s been a while but I think that’s where it’s hidden on these. But once the cover is off follow the main battery cable to the fuse box and it should take you to it. I think it’s at the top left corner of the box (if your standing at the fender looking at it).

@@dd4life158 8

Did you figure it out

Cause same

It could be a fuse or a loose or cut ground or power cable is my thought

Those dont charge until under load

ELD (Electronic Load Detector) only allows that car to produce so much voltage. Basically to assist with fuel efficiency and to preserve your alternator's life span. There is a way to bypass it but it can be a tedious task and it is not recommended.

Did you ever figure it out? Got an 01

@@LavxaGames it was my battery box(little red box). Mine melted and the connection in the battery box that joined the battery and alternator cables was lost. Bought a battery box and problem was solved.

I would check any ground wires that go to the truck. There should be one from the engine to the frame and one from the battery itself to the frame. Also check for any cuts in the wire for the power wire from the alternator to the power supply box with all the fuses

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage there a little bit of fraying on the ground wire to the engine you think that could be it?

14.5V

It could be a loose or bad ground cable. There are typically 2 From the battery to the frame and from the engine to the frame ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0j6HM11D2dw.html

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage was reading on mustang forums to add a ground wire from alternator to battery ?

If the fuse is blown it will stop working all together, so probably not it

@@dannyjohnsonsgarage it has stopped on me 3 times before this. Any other suggestions?

@@marybrown8749 hey bro did you ever fix the problem. I’m having the same problems with my Acura