It feels really good to be driving the Rangie again. She was only off the road for under a week but I did miss her! Don't forget to leave your questions below for my upcoming Q&A with Ben! Sam
Hi Sam...love your channel! And the Rangie! I've just gone down the HHO rabbit hole - have you considered trying a HHO kit to help with economy? Something like the Fuel Genie ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-s0Bu9b3t3Os.html - what do you reckon? Seems almost too good to be true but maybe worth a punt? That would make for a very interesting video series for your channel if nothing else! :) Cheers bud
I've no mechanical knowledge but I'm really enjoying watching you fix cars. Must have been so satisfying getting the Range back on the road. Well done mate.
I got on the habit of taking meds before I lifted the bonnet...helped heaps. Had one tantrum and threw a socket that bounced off intake and chipped windscreen. Medication become essential after that Bill
Great work Sam, pleased you got it fettled. You've certainly got me seriously interested in a L322. So I've not been put off by the few scare stories about them.
Thanks Laurence, I'm an engineer by trade but I've always done my own home mechanics since I started driving at 17 in '09. My advice is really to just start small with something simple, and work up from there. Your tools and experience will grow in unison, and as you get more confident you can tackle bigger jobs. I myself still use RU-vid and online forums a lot when I don't know how to tackle a problem, and there's definitely no shame in doing so!
Great vid...really enjoyed. 2011 L322 owner here. Ive a question for you and Ben: “On an L322, what’s should be the easiest job that’s actually the hardest? Also what’s the hardest job that turns out to be the easiest?” Looking forward to your joint stream 👍
Great job. I thought you might have had to tear down everything again to sort out that squeaky noise. Nice to see your pride and joy up and running again.
Ay up Sam, just followed your video while I was doing the same to mine so thank you. I would never have found the COSV bolts location. For anyone else doing this job I recommend pulling the power steering reservoir out it's bracket and lay it in the vacant air filter space, and remove the brackets two bolts and remove the bracket. Only takes a minute and the fan shroud is then so much easier to remove. Also, I found my large pulley bolts were 16mm not 17mm. Also definitely worth doing the water pump while everything is stripped down.
Hi Sam what a nitemare of a job I remember replacing the alternator on my 72 classic range rover about 25 years ago I took about 30 mins and funny enough it was the same alternator fitted to a cortina great vid as always sam 👍
Excellent content as usual, I could really relate to fighting a loosing battle with elements when working under the bonnet of a car. I'm pleasantly surprised that the Landrover seens pretty easy (technically) to work on. It's either an L322 TDV8 westminster for me next, or the safe option of a Merc ML 350CDI Sport with a remap.
That’s a good job done. I thought I was going to have to change ours as the voltage was sort of low. Turns out it’s ecu controlled and it only puts out as much as the battery needs. Lucky escape.
Cheers Ben, yeah it's a 'smart' charging system. Reminds me I need to check my battery on the load tester to make sure it's good... don't want to burn up another alternator! We're getting a good few questions on here for our Q&A too!
Great vid of a real world repair, demonstrating these jobs are possible at home with a can do approach. I’m a bit nervous seeing the open air intakes, it’s only too easy to inadvertently drop a bolt etc down there then the fun of retrieving, if you don’t realise and it is ingested into that Tdv8 it could be catastrophic. Keep up the good work Sam, looking forward to more vids. Hoping to go to Andorra in mine if & when we get through this Pandemic, still gives me more time for fettling
Thanks for the comment. Yep, as much as I prefer working in the workshop at my parents house, it's entirely possible to do jobs like this on the driveway. Andorra sounds like a great idea, I shall have to do some research on that.
Hate to inform you but Allmakes is actually Britpart! Bearmach is still its own entity though. Very hard to find reliable parts for any Landrover, even genuine stuff isn't always fit for purpose! Great vids by the way, keep up the good work 👍
Same location on the 3.6 TDV8. Fun, fun, fun! Been there, done that, got the T-shirt. Actually it looks easier on the 4.4. On the 3.6 there is a coolant manifold in front of it, and also you have to tie down the lower turbo pipe, to make it squeeze by. (I can see there is a similar coolant manifold on this one, when I came as far as the reassembly)
I got the alternator reconditioned on my 2.7 last year (Jag XJ). The only I could get it between the subframe and the block to get it out was to jack up the engine a bit and wratchet strap the engine over a bit.
That sounds painful! Is there really no easier way on those? I love that shape XJ - I had a V8 one a few cars ago. I'd have another for sure, but it'd probably be an XJR!
Great to see her back on the road! I have a 2012 Freelander 2. Having had it for a little over a year now, I’m quite familiar with its little quirks like it’s important to replace all 4 tyres at once as the haldex system is quite sensitive to uneven tyre wear made between axels. Also, quite importantly, at the bottom of the air box, there should be a little rubber one way valve. It lets any water that has made it to the air box out and stops any water coming in from the bottom. Very often, on any Freelander 2, this valve is missing so if your planing on doing any amount of wading, with out the one way valve, there is a serious risk of a hydro lock. So, the question is, does the L405 have any little quirks, and let’s face it, EVERY Land Rover does, that the average driver and in some cases, non Land Rover garages, should be aware of?? Ross
Question for you both: If your not mega rich and want to own a LR 4x4, and also want to daily drive it with a budget of £15k what would you own? Might seem obvious as you both are on the RR. I've had 2 x TD5 defender, a D4 and now a D2. I like the TD5 as it's simple ish to matin and it has more comforts than the defender like leather seats, air con and is better for taking my young kids in. Should I be looking at a Range Rover? I like to go camping with it, green lanes and then daily driver.
Hey Sam, looking to do belt and pulley change on L494. Can you remember the part number for the pulley next to the altenator? The one with the long bolt.
Top upload again 👍. Only recently found your channel since the range rover videos but it would be interesting to hear about what you do for a living, the area you live/work etc?
Great viewing. I have a trusted garage a non LR dealer to help get these jobs done on an old disco. I do this because I could not put things back in reverse like you do. Prob breaking more parts in the process. A question for you both tbh I don’t know if this is just me and the way I am thinking but here goes: When doing so much to bring your older LR/RR vehicles back to better reliability and as close to new in terms of looks, handling etc. How do you guys keep a mindset of not feeling you’ve done too much in vested too much in refreshing this car. You are simply going to have to keep it longer because your making the next owners experience easier and won’t see back all you’ve spent on it inc. your time? Like a gambler at the table when do you call time and walk away before any major issue? And putting creating good YT content aside for this question. Cheers guys
My simple answer to that. After dumping thousands into project cars. Generally if I can fix the issue in a timely manner and it doesn't really cost over 1k I'll keep the car. If it's not something under that 1k area... Onto craigslist it goes
Hi and thanks for your great videos!! Do have a question regarding the 4,4TDV8 maintanace. Where is the crankcase vent filter (oil breathing filter) located? I can only refer to the Volvo Penta D6 marine engine, were this is a serious important maintanance filter:) Would really appreaciate comments to this, can not find or understand were this is located . . . Thanks😊
Question for you guys. I did an oil change/service on my 3.6tdv8 and now has dash notification of service notification 3.2005 which is odd as L322 is an 07. Have done the turn ignition on,open bonnet, dip brake and accelerator for 30 seconds- reset but didn't work tried it with door closed and door opened but no luck. Is their a gap 11 reset or will I have to take it to my mate with a Snap on Solus diagnostic tool?
Hi Sam - a wannabe TDV8 owner here (got rid of my P38 in September - Just in time for it to snow again!!!). I like Ben's channel as well (subscribed to you both) and would love you guys to compare the different ownership experience between the 4.4 and the 3.6 - is there, for example, any more room in the engine bay on the 3.6 for things like alternator swaps etc. Genuinely interested as looking to get a 2010/11 model of either the 3.6 or the 4.4 and am undecided. Cheers and keep up the informative work. Ant
Gm sam are u gonna do a video of upgrading your brakes to bremo brake calipers and drill rotors I know it may cost a lot but just asking question from Jamaica lol those red calipers would look too sweet with them new wheels koooool
Depends if you're living in the UK or within the EU. I used to get my stuff from British Parts in the UK, but now after Brexit, that is a nightmare. So I buy a little here and there. AutoDoc is not too bad, but they don't have everything.
Sam did you replace a total of 5 pulleys and 2 belts? I've seen a kit on eBay that has two pulleys and belts however advanced factors have a total of 5 on their website. Cheers
I’m struggling to decide what would be the car to go for ....TD6 knowing it’s slower, will have a gearbox that may need doing at some point but seems like some great cars can be had or plump for a TDV8 3.6. The turbos worry me however..... What would you do? The 4.4 is unfortunately out of budget. Maybe something for you and Ben to discuss? Great videos btw, keep them coming.
Quick question...would it have not been easier and give you more room if you removed the front ok the aircon gas and regas...but you have more room to work...😊
Sam, been studying this vid for ages and I’m attempting the idlers and pulleys now. I spent a couple of hours today and have removed the csov, air boxes, and shroud bolts. Next step is the rad top hose but I’m unsure what point to drain the system did you do it from the transmission cooler connection?
Hi Scott, it's been a while now but I think I just removed the pipe connecting to the bottom of the header tank and drained that into a container. I basically just got the coolant level below the level of the hose connections on the front of the engine/thermostat housing. Hope you've managed to get it sorted now.
Great vid, how did you get on with the rear suspension, Did you get the ride sorted? Q&A, what 3 mods would you recommend or plan on doing to make the vehicle better?
@@SamsMotors Looking forward to that. I ran a calibration on mine usign the IID , it seems to have helped with some of the wallowyness ( is that a word?) . BUt that could be wishful thinking.
Hi Sam, firstly love your videos find them really useful. I have a 2011 l322 autobiography and about to do the belts amd pulleys. Could you let me know where you buy your pulleys and tensioners from please. Thanks
Hi James, if you're in the UK, "Advanced Factors" is very good for LR / RR parts. www.advancedfactors.co.uk/auxiliary-drive-belt--tensioners-11791-c.asp Thanks!
Enjoying these vids Sam! I have a question for you. Have you ever thought about getting a volvo xc90? Literally thought this would be one of your dreams! Haha
Question for you both. I have a battery discharge issue (parasitic draw) 2010 L322 TDV8 3.6 over 3-4 days, what is the best way to diagnose on a FF RR? Use an Amp meter and pull fuses or some other way? Thanks in advance.
With modern cars, pulling fuses is not helpful, since the car will be "awake" when it is unlocked, running lots of cpus and other electronics. So for this approach to work, you'll need to know all the fuses to pull to force it to go asleep. And what if the problem is that it is not going fully asleep? The obvious things is to check for are appliances that may have been left in the power outlets. The one in the trunk is powered all the time.
For your upcoming Q&A with Ben! : Is it okay to raise the height and park it overnight on a regular basis without doing damage? The reason is mine drops down from normal height and when I tried it once, i.e. to park it raised, it stayed raised without dropping.
Great video again Sam, I’ve just sent mine off to Range Rover this morning for a front crankshaft oil seal😯 ... another 1000 quid no doubt😢 I think I’ve spent more on repairs than you did on the entire car 😂 have you got the interior yet? All the best mate, Jim.
Thanks mate - oh no! Was it leaking badly? How did you diagnose it as the crank seal? Interior is still at home in the workshop, I am itching to get down and grab it though!
@@SamsMotors I had it all steam cleaned and my local garage checked it out, unfortunately they didn’t have the correct tool to do the job so I just decided to book it in at guy salmon, it’s only about 4 weeks ago it was in there for a full service, front and rear diff oil change, transfer box oil change, gearbox oil and filter change, brake fluid change, coolant flush and change, lower control arms replaced, auxiliary heater key fob reprogrammed all costing around 2700 quid and if that wasn’t enough I had a Pandora cat1 elite system fitted with remote start and front and rear dash cam as well costing 1900 quid lol not to mention my new deployable side steps and new interior costing around 1400 quid and to top it off a garmin overlander sat nav fitted for another 600 quid.... phew 😥... I’m exhausted! 😂
Yeah, you're about at what I paid for my whole truck there! 😂 Blimey, I can't imagine handing over £2,700 to a dealer! Sounds like they did a big load of work though, and it must be driving great now - or at least, it will be when the seal is done haha. A Garmin Overlander is on my wish list too - are you going to use it for 'overlanding' so to speak or just for general sat nav use? They look a really nice bit of kit so I'd be interested to hear what you think.
@@SamsMotors yes it is driving lovely now mate, the overlander I bought as we are going on NC500 as you know, I’m hoping to get off the beaten track a bit while I’m there, also I’m now going to the Isle of Skye for a 4 night break in June purely to explore the whole of Skye and hopefully it will come in useful there too. It’s purely a touring car for me Sam so I want it to have all the toys and be comfortable as possible, I don’t plan to sell it anytime soon but if I did I’m pretty sure I’d get 6 grand😂😂😂
Should be perfect for those trips 👍. I want to get back to Morocco at some point in the next year or so, so I'm thinking the Overlander would be awesome for that too.
Question (serious one): Would you entertain coming to view a tdv8 (for a fee of course), to help with a purchase? Also, I have always loved these and want a 2012 over a new shape one.. BUT I am not mechanically minded at all and just too scared to buy if I'm honest...
As James said, it wouldn't really have helped and is a lot more work in itself. I wouldn't have said 'plenty' of room, but perhaps for someone with thinner, more bendy arms there would be!
@@SamsMotors It would give you a better view of what's going on (especially videoing) but otherwise I don't think it would help. It would also leave the air con pipe very vulnerable
Hey Sam, love your channel. I’m in the process of buying my first L322 2012. I like how you find non OEM parts to save cost, like I will. Is there a general site to locate aftermarket parts? I’ve had little success in finding good sights that stock non OEM parts.
For this job I used Advanced Factors who have a fabulous website for finding what you need. Otherwise, I use Island 4x4 quite a bit and Britcar too. It helps to know exactly what part numbers you need too, for which I use new.lrcat.com, which is an online version of the Land Rover Microcat parts catalogue.
looks like LR used eveys available inch in the engine bay, and I thought swapping out the turbo on my P38 was a bit of a faf. No fun working by torch light outside in the cold.
As far as I know, yes they are. I want to get in touch with the previous owner at some point and see if he can shed any more light on any big mechanical jobs it's had done!
Hello, are the first idler you take out at 5:09 and the second one at 8:40 identical? I didn't see you take out the tensioner/idler on 14:11 (you touch it with your hand), you're not replace that one? Could you please list out all the product serial number of the idlers and tensioner you have replaced? That would be very helpful! thank you! I'm looking forward to your reply!
Hi, if you head to AdvancedFactors they have an excerpt from the LR parts manual which shows all the part numbers nicely: www.advancedfactors.co.uk/auxiliary-drive-belt--tensioners-11791-c.asp This is what I used to work out what I needed and order it. Hope that helps.
@@SamsMotors Could you please help me identify this part for replacement? I've looked at the website you provided but can't find it, Thank you! drive.google.com/file/d/1ahFw_1kZDBs4EUUvKKhf8VlZ-ORObZP5/view?usp=sharing (marked red)
The height of the alternator is about in line with the top of the wheels when in 'off road' height, which is approximately the maximum wading depth of the Range Rover. Also, if wading is done correctly, there should be a bow wave in front and a 'low' right beneath the engine bay of the vehicle.
Thanks Gary, it depends on the deal - but I wouldn't necessarily turn it down just because it's a 2.7. Yes there are reports of crankshaft failure but when you think how many of these were sold, I don't think it's a huge problem.
New sub here, thinking your videos should provide some great entertainment as I’m a JLR (officially 1 year as of last Friday) as my day job and it will be great to see some other poor soul suffering at the hands of Jlr Enginering.....! 😜
Sam's Motor & Machine Forget to put tech in my comment ! I am but a humble mechanic suffering sore knuckles and back pain on a daily basis and that’s just from the job card/warranty write ups not to mind the actual repairing ....! 😜
Sam's Motor & Machine As I’m only at LR’s 12 months I have been lucky enough to avoid such suffering...! To be honest we don’t see to many tdv8’s in the work shop, it seems to be mostly v6 diesels . By all accounts there isn’t too many if any jobs in the engine bay of a tdv8 that aren’t pure suffering......!
You think you got problems. I took delivery of a brand new Land Rover last Tuesday, and when I discovered I couldn't close the tailgate fully on the key/button, Land Rover Assist tech came out and after ripping off the tailgate trim panel, found that the FACTORY had completely omitted to fit the 'soft' closing mechanism motor and cable. Not even an option, it's a standard fit across the range!
That's impressive! It reinforces my philosophy of getting a high mileage one. Then I know it hasn't spent half its life in a garage along with mechanics scratching their heads and butts.
@@SamsMotors Dealer thought so too. Now back at the JLR PDI centre in Hounslow being rectified and a fresh PDI to ensure no other lurking gremlins waiting to pounce. ;-)
That has been my philosophy with cars too. But as I am near death, I thought I would treat myself to a brand new car that no other arse has sat in for a change. Unfortunately, it has now had more arses sat in it than a pimpmobile. :-D
@@rafflesnh It reminds me of when PowerfulUK, here on YT, got their new Defender delivered. It threw codes left, right and center, went back to Land Rover several times, until Simon found a loose hose and fixed the problem himself. Surely there was a mutual agreement and Simon took down those "offensive" videos.
Enjoyed the video. My question is - ‘Why is it that Land Rover has never made a reliable vehicle and would hiring new engineers and designers be the answer?’
Can't say my 08 TDV8 with close to 400k km on the odometer have been unreliable. Two alternators (Denso, so they are Japanese) and now the front struts, a waterpump, leaky turbo hoses and not too much more, apart from servicing (Ah. forgot all auxillary drive pullies). And that car has been no garage queen, I can tell you. But they are complex vehicles, stuffed with electronics that can play up, if you compare it to a Land Cruiser.
Not popular with petrolheads but an electric car with one moving part will one day make us wonder why we put up with such excessive complexity and inaccessibility.
5 hours to change an alternator that's ridiculous, what where they thinking (or not!). Like the way you're happy because it hasn't broke this week - winner..
I love all the internet/RU-vid automotive engineers that think they know how to design and build cars just so they can change an alternator etc. They have no clue. Then there’s the European/BMW/AUDI haters that think the GMC/Corvette/Escalade is better/more reliable/easier to work on. Guess it gets an ill informed debate going just lie Brexit 🤦♂️
It was a light hearted comment to express how the alternator access isn't that great on this car. Of course I understand about packaging and why it is placed where it is. -- From a qualified Automotive Engineer.
@@SamsMotorsSam the comment was directed to those in the comments section mainly. I am a automotive engineer with 20 years experience in manufacturing, design and previously a master tech. 👍
