just want to say that I am very happy to see another quality modeling channel appear on RU-vid. The foiling video is excellent. Enough so that I am going to try this out on one of my kits. But I want to encourage you to continue with this channel as too much of what is out there is of limited value. Not to say that there are not some great channels, there are several, some of which have only recently started. What's great about all of this, is that for me, it represents a challenge to get better. I've been building for a long time, but never quite seemed to get my work to the level I desired. But I hope to change that. Seeing what you and other's have done, and seeing how you did it, well, it makes me more intent on getting there myself. Thanks for that.
If you use the cheapest foil you can find, thin, thin, thin. You can stretch it into that forward wing root piece. You will have cut it to fit in an arch pattern. If it splits, you can apply a patch over it , sand a feather as needed. sometime I just put paint into the split. Remember, foil compresses as much as it streches. Hope this helps. Wonderful job on that P40.
hello, i have just found you as a suggestion from youtube's algorithm and just watched 5 mins , but i am already a fan. excellent clear instinctive explanations, thanks, j
I worked on F4's when in the RAF in the 1980's and took those heat shields off the back end so many times . They are secured with screws with very large heads into enlarged holes to allow for thermal expansion. The panels overlap each other . The colour of the heat shields is like a dark metallic grey and they are also coated in patches of dark soot unless they are newly replaced and they are made of titanium I think the aluminium foil looks fantastic but maybe bit more burning on the foil would be a more realistic reflection of historical authenticity "what a really awesome technique" .
I am impressed. I wish that I had such a tutorial when I was making models in my younger days. We had a foil product with adhesive already applied to use on models but no really clear instructional guidelines. It was a pain to use and very thick. Good work.
What a brilliant tutorial; well done and thank you for posting. I've spent years looking for something as approachable as your technique without success. You make the process look so attainable. 10:10.
Your idea for using plain aluminum foil (for the type you used; available in grocery stores in the U.S.), with a "burnt" finish (achieved through baking) for jet exhaust heat effect on panels is amazing! It seems most of the modeling community pros achieve this effect using subtle paint washes, sometimes with multiple wash applications, which can look quite good, but your method is much simpler.
I have to say what a fantastic presentation that you have shown me, and probobley many other modelers as well, as I have tried this process on some of the early 1940 & 1950 commercial airliners to no avail and I have had no success in the process at all , so I have ended up spraying the model with a chrome on top of a Tamya gray primer and found that to be successfull . I am not into fighter jets was into them in my ealy days of modeling but now I am into the latest commercial airliners, and it may take me 6 months or so to develop one model, but you have a special gift that a lot of modelers dont have and thats patients and presision where you get it right the first time. maybe you should be the quality control officer for the boeing airlines especialy with the Boeing 737 max, but thank you for a great presentaion and I thank you for not applying fast forward on your camera like some U Tube presentations . thank you regards Norm QLD Australia
This is a brilliant video. I've often wondered if kitchen aluminium foil could be used as a finish for models. Now I know! The instruction is excellent. Also, your models are amazing.
Amazing technique & process for creating a very realistic aluminum panel color -by using aluminum foil! I've known of this aluminum foil panel process for several years, but have never tried it, & have not yet seen an instructional video for the process as good as this one. Thanks, & excellent work!
Great video with lots of useful tips. It is a fantastic effect for a model aeroplane and the hybrid approach using paints on awkward detail features is a handy dodge. The larger panels will draw the eye. I am tempted to run a large scale Sptifire using this technique and also like the detail on the jet pipes model which would be a brownish looking inconel materil on the real thing.
Really great video well done. You have a quiet, down to earth style which is easy to listen to and you know your stuff. All those views and only 495 or so likes ? That must be a mistake. Cant wait to see the finished product!
A 56 year old man, who has been making models since 1975, is watching a video made by a 16 (?) year old who knows what he is talking about. I learnt this technique way back from a book. Never tried it. These age old techniques are being replaced by expensive alternatives. Keep up the great work, you made an old man happy! Thank you.
This is amazing. I first saw John Goodson use this technique for the motion control photography model of the Razorcrest for The Mandalorian. I didn't realise it was such a straightforward technique. I will be trying this out. Thank you so much for this video.
Wow...im trying to put a blown up plane next to another so i figured i could sand down some sections of the damaged fighter and lay in jagged sections of foil? So im lookin thru YT and have come across this video, im so impressed that this can even be accomplished. This technique would work well on my P-47's!!! Awesome job!!!
You do it almost identical to how I do it. I put the glue on the model with a flat paintbrush and then apply the foil. Using the tooth pick to push it down into the panel lines and pick out the detail in the model. Try a small 1/2" wide x 1/4" thick piece of balsa wood stick cut to a point cross ways to burnish your foil down. You can get a better bond that way. Mother's aluminum polish will clean and polish for a show finish. Keep up the good work.
Hey thanks...I love to build model aircraft, I will indeed try this out, your airplane foiling looks incredible. good job fellow model builder...my hat is off to you...
Aluminum is great for any 1950s aircraft as well, since most were never really camoed. Jet exhaust area especially great work on the F-4! Time to quit neglecting my F-104 now
I was a scale modeler when I was younger. I'd do things like find photos of instrument panels, xerox them down to scale and Dremel out the holes in the panel. A piece of acetate and the picture behind it gave the instrument panel depth and "glass" reflection. We didn't have kits for harnesses and buckles then so I'd cut up tooth paste tubes and score the strips to make the belts. I'd use the sprue to make push rods, wires, etc. I built a 1/48 scale P-51B in about '75. I had collected gum wrappers and peeled the thin foil from the wrappers to make may panels. A toothpick with Epoxy resin to replace sanded off rivets. I used a wash of brown and black to "burnish" the titanium panels and matte lacquer to dull others. This was very relaxing for me. Somewhat nostalgic but also kind of Zen like. Thank you for taking me on this journey.
Did not see it in the comments so I will throw this one into the group!... lol. I was using the MICRO foil adhesive and found the smell to be very familiar... As it should to us all... Micro Foil Adhesive is just PVA glue diluted with water. I tried it with Elmer's glue. Same Effect!! wipe the mixture on the foil an let it sit till it goes clear(ish). Then use the same technique with the cotton bud / Qtip (depending on what hemisphere you are in) to press the foil onto the desired area. you can save some money and/or if the desired MIcro product is unavailable.
Hi Matthew, yes I think the Micro is some form of PVA glue. The main thing I noticed that differentiates it is that it stays a bit tacky, which the PVA we have in the UK doesn't.
Mam, consider that Molotow Chrome is the most chrome like paint in existence. Airbrush it on. DON'T TOUCH it. Airbrush on a coat of clear Spaz Sticks. Other clear coats usually turn the chrome to yucky dull grey. You can experiment with areas of Spaz Sticks clear (for chrome) and masked off areas with other clear coats to get areas of "weathered" chrome. All the best.
I have to go out in a bit, so I'm going to finish watching this video when I get home this afternoon. I used to be into plastic modeling, but that was years ago. I'd like to get back to it, but when I've gotten other necessary work off my plate. Anyway, if you need the heavy duty foil and can't find it, there's no reason I can't mail you a roll or two. I'm in the states, and I would be happy to help.
Ah I just heard your theory about blunter blade , ooops , and panel by panel , actually was gonna suggest that as butting up edged wound simulate real thing , anyway sharp blades we go easy with first pass ( with most other tasks)
I’ve been doing this for over 20 years but using imitation silver leaf using Gold leaf quick sizing and it take a little bit more sensitivity due to the thinness of the leaf.
Just for clarification denatured alcohol is NOT the same as IPA. Denatured is often used for stove fuel! With denatured being more flamable and a little harsher on the fumes
Annealing the foil in an oven or toaster oven should soften it to a more flexible state. Almost stretchy. Kitchen foil is an alloy with a bit of magnesium i think but there's still a pretty good chance it will soften. You'll have to check online for the annealing temp of aluminum to be sure of success. Now that I think about it though, it may already be annealed and thus the reason it is as useful as it is to begin with.
Not a modeler myself but interested in the technique. The technique is interesting but aluminium leaf (like gold leaf but ally) might also be of interest, thin enough to float on air it'll pick up any detail under it and shine well.
thats really a nice way to put metal on! i have a modle of a P-51D "Double Trouble two" which i never finished because i could not find a good paint for the metal finish it has. i might try this and see how it goes
If you have a hard time with the so called "cocktail sticks " try bamboo skewers. You can sand them smooth and you can cut them to size. A nice job you man, your showing patience which is the hardest thing to teach. Sounds like a bit of the sniffles so get well.
Fantastic! Your a breath of fresh air ! Great to see a youthful person such as your self posting these helpful tutorials, Fantastic, get over the clarity of how beautiful your technique is , What glue do you recommend, as a wood glue ? I couldn’t view what brand , you were using , Can you please suggest and mention the type and brand ? Looking forward to performing this on a B-29 !!! It’s gonna look awesome if I don’t stuff it up, thanks Jennifer, bless you, and so proud I’d be if I was your father ! Well done ! I’ve subscribed, and I looking forward to up dated post, Keep posting and once again well done , sooo enjoy your post half way across the world , here in , Australia, watching and thanks for technology, Safe travels and Godbless
Jenesis Designs and Modelcraft Thank you my Dear for the speedy reply , and Good Morning ,hope I haven’t disturbed you sleeping from any ‘ chimes ‘from alerts , via your phone , Thankyou sooooooo much for the secret tip , Godbless you and family , especially in this extremely hard and trying times in the UK and every where , Bless you all , stay safe my dear , to you and your family , Good evening, from Down Under, Sydney :)
I know another way of blackening tin foil easily. Just get some dirty Silver jewellry, tin foil & some sodium bicarbonate ( NOT baking powder ) . Place the tin foil in a suitable container ( shiny side up ), place the silver on it , add a tablespoon of bicarb & add boiling water. It does smell bad - so don't stick your nose over it. You will get some blackened tin foil & clean silver jewellry.
We did that to clean our son's trumpet and some candlesticks - the combination of the bicarb and aluminium pulls the sulphur out of the silver coating. You'd have to call it a win-win!
Waffer thin! A Monty Python fan! And so I Subscribed. By the way I admire that you not only developed an amazing technique here but you also dumped everything you've learned from experience into your video. Your generosity is brilliant. I wonder if you could pre shape a piece of foil to allow you to glue it into curvy areas. Maybe burnish it over a ball bearing, end of a pencil etc like an English wheel?
Great video, well explained on how to do the job, I’ve watched many videos and yours is by far the best, thank you! I feel now that I can tackle this on my 109 that I’ve been wanting to try. Thanks again. Btw your Fw looks Amazing 🤩
