Amazing Radiant Floor Heat | One Year Update & System Costs 

I think it would be really helpful for people to know your winter kWh/month consumption more-so than the cost. Cost changes with time, anyone interested in doing hydronic radiant with tankless is going to care about electricity consumption, as that's the originator of cost.

you did great !!! I think you should do this for all your family.. for a DIYer ...I bow to you ...

Good for you guy's , you did it right. The whole house is the way to go.

Thank you for showing your setup, gave me the push I needed to change my oil burning boiler for the Ecosmart and saved a ton of money on my heating bill. I chose to leave the circulator pump on 24/7 and modulate the output temperature when needed depending on the weather. Works great and cost is way down. Thanks for the help !

Thanks for the info guys. Absolute bargain in my opinion. I come from a place where underfloor heating is basically non existent so this info is greatly appreciated!

The Ecosmart will adjust the temperature that is coming out of the heater, is controlled by the sensors and the computer of the water heaters. Don't need to turn off the breakers for the water heaters. The system look awesome.

I, too, live in northern Virginia and my primary HVAC stem is an electric heat pump with back-up resistance heating coils. My conditioned space is 4,400 sqft (9 ft ceilings). My budget electricity plan (12 month moving average) is $205 per month. I keep my house at 70degF in the winter and 74degF in the summer. The heating is much more expensive than the cooling. I have thought of installing radiant heating, but, at this point, I cannot justify they cost. Regardless, I appreciate and like your RU-vid channel!

Dang you 2 people seem evenly yoked congratulations on meeting each other 💕god bless your lives

Little suggestion. Tie your other two zones in just incase the seal leaks one day. You can also open one of the unused zones to incase your cold supply tenp. Increasing the cold water supply temp might increase the boiler efficiency. If you can find a ECOsmart efficiency graph you can dial in the boiler to run at its most efficient operating area. Great video👍

Thanks for the price breakdown. We bought a 1940 colonial last year. It has a boiler and cast-iron radiators all on 1 zone. I'm planning to zone out the first floor and second floor of the house, and then run radiant tubing in the basement ceiling to heat the first floor. Your video has been very helpful in seeing the components and pricing.

I just purchased a newer (7yr old) home with hydronic heated slab in the basement and heated slab in detached 700 sq foot garage. Living in Eastern Canada, our winters are long and can be rather ‘harsh’... I’ve only been in the house for 2 months now but absolutely love this type of heat. We also have electric heated floors in the kitchen and a forced air system as we are approximately 4100 sq feet over 3 levels.. so although the radiant heat does raise, the forced air is still required for the bedrooms on the top level... plus the a/c ducting was required for our hot/humid summers. I love going into my garage that is a constant 17 degrees and getting into my warm vehicle especially as we are currently sitting at -30 degrees with the wind chill. The cost of running the system is almost irrelevant to me given the benefits. I do have the boiler system with a hot water holding tank for household use... so all in one is great!

Nice setup guys

i really like the way you use the white tube between the connection. this makes future much easy to change tings, not need to ask a plumber. it can be easily done by ourselves.

Awesome video. You talk about monthly costs. What’s your kw/hr cost in your area for hydro? We have a similar size house and are thinking about installing a similar system.

You guys are amazing! These videos are exceptional and will help millions of people thinking about diying their houses!

Kudos on the diy! You might want to get a flow switch or a low water cutoff to cut the power on the electric boiler in the event of low water/zero pressure. Most local codes require it.

Like your system. I have been working to put together a system for my house. My house was built 60 years ago before these systems came out. I worked at a shop that my boss in stall one of these systems. The main building we in stall a heat exchanger in the duck work and work shop had the plex pipe in stall in the floor. It worked fine. The only problem was he had a wood burning boiler. Where I lived I cannot in stall that kind of boiler. I have been looking at these on demand boiler and did not know if they would work. After seeing your video I am going to go buy one. So I can finish setting up my heating system and cut my gas bill for my furnace.

Just one thing: I would put the circulator to pull the water into the heating unit and NOT pulling from it. It just makes the life easier on the circulator as this method prolongs its life as it gets the water that is not as hot as the water exits the heating unit. That's all. Other than that, I really loved your system. In fact, I'm using it as the model that I'm building my own system based upon.

Happy 2 year anniversary.

You have a lovely little home! I really appreciate you sharing this information. I just started researching hydronic heating systems. I am thinking about adding a solar-powered system in my condo's basement as a supplement to the forced-air system it has. I'm off to watch your first video now!

So regarding... the... control via multiple breakers... You're most likely not saving much by switching one off. Yes, the instantaneous draw is halved, but the unit will run twice as long to reach the same temperature. Half of the power, for twice as long, is actually the same amount of energy. You halve the kilowatts but double the hours, so the same number of kilowatthours. As to the others, talking about your costs being high... I don't think that has anything to do with it being a radiant floor. Your costs are high, but I suspect that's entirely because your energy source is electric, which comes with an associated high rate. There are direct-vent hydrocarbon-fired on-demand water heaters available, which ... listen, no responsible person would ever go on record calling any gas-fired appliance "DIY-friendly," but it's been done many times and if you follow the darn instructions they're really not that difficult. *Technically* the fuel efficiency is actually less, BUT the fuel is considerably cheaper, so your monetary efficiency would be higher. There are also heat-pump-based water heaters which I've encountered a few of - they're tank-type, and don't achieve nearly the heat output you would need to warm your place up from a cold start, but it might be worth looking at for just maintaining temperature. Disclaimer: I have not done *any* math on that, the idea literally just popped into my head as I'm writing this, so if you check it out and it turns out to be totally impractical, well, it was just a thought so don't set me on fire. Others have mentioned zone valves. If you're not having problems keeping even heat throughout the house, and you're okay with "all or nothing" heating, then great, there's no pressing need to add additional copmlexity... on the other hand, depending on lifestyle, you may be able to save a bit more money by lowering the temperature in parts of the house...

No one seems to talk about this, but now that you've been using it, how often, and for how long does your floor heating kick on for to keep your home at a comfortable temperature in the winter in a given 24-hour period?

Just a couple of ideas. You might want to consider installing a couple of ceiling fans if you haven't already. Heat will stratify even though you have floor radiant. It would be better to get that heat back down to where you live, even though you are comfortable now. It would allow you to turn you floor heat down a bit. I'm not sure I understand why you aren't just running a standard thermostat, but I'm sure that you have your reasons. You should seriously think about replacing your electric water heaters with a wall mount 95% condensing boiler. Your home looks well insulated, and I think you could easily save $100 a month net for heating your home in the middle of winter. You may be a bit afraid of the venting, but that's the easiest part (believe it or not). Just run it out an exterior wall and leave the exhaust higher than the intake and at least 12 inches away so the air intake doesn't suck in the exhaust. Depending on the length, you may be able to use 2" but for certain you could use 3". I'd recommend a Laars FT 100,000 BTU. They are about $1,800 through Supply House, and if you've gotten this far, you're smart enough to do a boiler. You could get a combi and get your hot water from it, but that's up to you. Being a bit long winded here, but you're thinking is backwards on the split duct heat pumps. They are BY FAR the best way to heat your home at least to 30 degrees. Just a guess, but using 14 cents as you cost for electricity, you may be able to heat for $70 a month at 30 degrees and $120 at 10 degrees with a 19-21 seer heat pump. You could probably get by easily with one 24,000 BTU or 2 12,000 BTU heat pumps, and there are very likely rebates available. Depending on your income, you may be able to get them for free or half price because of the Inflation Reduction Act (that program will probably be available in April at the earliest, keep your eyes open). Don't think twice, get split duct heat pumps, even if you love your radiant. Oh, they're easy to put in too. Forgive me if I'm telling you stuff you already know. Good luck! Thanks for the video!

3 years now - How do you like it? I am getting my pipping Thursday to install my own in floor heat. I am in Wisconsin. I am excited! The post frame house is spray foamed too.

Anyone deciding to dyi a radiant slab job should make sure to insulate the sides of your slab with twice the insulation thickness as what is under the floor. Outdoor temps are colder up shallow near the slab edges in winter than directly under the slab and much of your heat will exit where heat loss is greatest. Think about it, the natural ground is say 50 degrees F, but at the edges near the surface the ground temps could be well below 32F. Install "edge" insulation to extend to at least 18" below the surface. Just some solid advice......

Awesome video! I live in rural alaska. I have a 1100 sq house with a attached garage (including the sq footaged) i have a hot water on demand and two toyostove. One in the shop and another in the house. I burn 300 gallons of diesel every 4 to 5 months ($1300) for the diesel. Plus $280 for electric a month. So hope that wood stove will work. Im planning on building a shop with floor heating. That why i watched your video. Thanks again.

If I could go back and do it again, I'd install a radiant floor heat system tied into our boiler setup. Nicely done👍

Directly using electricity for heat is highly inefficient in most areas. The mini splits heating function will likely save you 1/3 to 1/2 on power usage. Possibly more depending on your climate and COP of the units you get.

Nice place 👍. FYI - a key selling point of the Ecosmart water heaters is their computer control that “ calculates the incoming temperature & flow rate to determine the appropriate power output to reach the the set temperature point “. Ecosmart also specifies their elements are Triac controlled meaning they are variable wattage.

You both are awesome. Thank you for sharing.

When you say cold outside, I would like to know the actual temperature outside and inside. What happens if you loose power to your system ? Ice on power lines etc. Do you think it will stay warm for 24 hours or less ?

How much temperature does the water lose from the time it exits your water heater, to the time it travels back to the water heater?

Like the Redlegs hat ⚾️ !

Good job hope you’re enjoy it guys 👍

Great job. You work with what you have.

Thanks and have a wonderful life

Great explanation of the system. I'm glad it's working so well for you guys. I have a 14x16 building and had a Mitsubishi mini split installed. It's wonderful! Very economic and reliable and keeps the temp within 1* either cooling or heating. Also it's whisper quiet which is nice.

Awesome . Respect! Thank you!

Thank you for the video and the information shared. Most amazing part was the ceiling height and little to no effect of this to the heating cost. Interesting. Thanks again.

I have installed modulating boilers and ,they are better for heating and hot water with the turn down ratio when not heating and just needed for domestic hot water

Thanks, looking to build a small retirement home and do this.

Watched your setup back when Natalie and I was setting up our radiant floor sustem. Good to see it still working good.

I need to go back and watch your installation video. I wasn’t following you guys yet. We’d love to install radiant heat in our basement.

Awesome video, folks. Thank you!

Basically a different type of masonry heater. Very cool.

Have you considered using an air-to-water heat-pump in combination with a large accumulator tank to heat your floor-heating water? A heat-pump with a COP of 3+ is not all that expensive and would reduce your heating-related power bill considerably. Your circulation pump would then draw its water from the accumulator tank. I set up such a system here on the west-coast of Norway about 12 years ago and it works wonderfully. I even use the heat pump to draw air from the house's ventilation thus ensuring that wonderful combo of fresh and warm indoor climate. If your accumulator has an extra heating coil you may even use it to preheat the cold inlet water that you feed into your consumption hot water tank.

Here's the link to the first install video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TBmXC8hXNKQ.html

Great job again! Thank you for the cost analysis!! Well done video

I haven’t really had a heat bill in 15 years, I m using an od wb .tho I have some electric cost the rest is basically free after initial install. Tho not as slick of a system it is extremely comparable in the comfort aspect. I’ve saved $30k in propane costs n gotta say “love it “!!!! 3500 square feet too !!

I am surprised it is costing 250/mnth for heat. I can only surmise you are still pretty leaky with the envelope. Any way was nice to see who and how you sourced the bits and pieces and it gives me a better idea of what to expect in Canada with our low cad/usa dollar conversion. All good information.

Great job and update. I remember the last video on radiant floor😎

Have you considered setting water heaters lead lag so that they see somewhat of equal use ( lead lag takes turns being first on last off )

Thank you for the great detail!

thank you Don , awesome video! I love the hat too!!

Very well and considerately explained.

You should install a geo thermal unit . I am from Ireland who where the ground freezes in winter . I have worked on alot of houses that have it. It takes heat from 6- 12 foot under the ground and pumps it in to the underfloor heating via a heat exchanger . It has an initial cost but after that you are paying to run a pump only . Boilers are installed as a back up but rarely needed depending on how hot you want the floors ..

Fantastic video, very well explained and a smart set-up to heat your house.

Nice job - appreciate all of the details - best of luck to you!

Amazing. Just saw this. Planning to do small addition to my house in long island NY. Would love to see all your video of your project. Please let me know where to find them. Thank you

I put in the same type system in my pole barn house in the 80's It has worked well. I don't think you need a 140 degree water temperature. I run mine at around 100 degrees which was what was recommended at the time. If you lower the temperature of course the pump will run at longer intervals but overall I think it might be more efficient.

Hello nice video. I build a 1200 Sq ft slab on grade double wall construction which I s supper insulated I put in a open radiant floor system where I use two 50 gallon heat pump electric hot water tanks .this supply my heat and hot water .I keep my heat at 74 degrees for 8 months a year and it's cost me me about $750. A year at $00.10 AKH I live in upstate northern NY so it does get cold here.

Really appreciate you sharing all the details of your installation costs. 😎👍

thank you thank you thank you for your component list!!!

AMAZING VIDEO and to top that...great host, excellent list of components I am so greatful for finding this video...all the best! 20 out 10 *****

Did I hear correctly in your other video when you said that you had a 400 amp service? Do you need that much to run this system? I mean the Battleship New Jersey uses 8, 440 lines, and those cables are huge. Thank you.

Great video and info. Thanks Guys !!

Very interesting. I wouldn't go electric as where I am at it is very expensive but if it works for you, hey its ok. It would be a great test if one could add in a propane tankless heater to compare costs. The more remote one is, the less options are out there.

Fantastic info. I’m planning adu and your tips are great

I have installed a single zone radiant heat system for a separate AUD ,430 sqf. I chose electric for some of the same reasons stated here. There is another reason, PV panels. (If the system used gas I could not take advantage of the solar regarding heat.). The heater I chose strongly recommended copper pipe coming in and out of the tankless water heater minimum 3’ from the unit. (Not PVC) and the convert to the pex at the floor. I love the shark bite, pex ,pvc plumbing system and it would have been way easier as well as making repairs or adjustments to the system. So I went with copper but made sure all components could be removed and serviced without desoldering copper joints. So far I love the soft heat ,virtually silent. It comes on in the early morning for a couple hours and it’s good all day and most of the night. ( 18 inches of thermal mass). You can have doors and windows open during the day(COVID) for business clients without losing the heat investment. ( I am in California) You’re not heating the air but the thermal mass. I went with an open system so the same heater supplies two sinks and a shower. The warm floor acts as a water tank (average of 98 degrees in the cold season) this makes it easier for the small tankless heater because the water is prewarmed before entering the heater and the fixtures provide a much quicker access to hot water ( saving waisted water.and energy).

Awesome video 👍 thanks so much ! !

Very informative. Just curious to know what you pay per KWh in your area. I’m on a duel fuel geothermal system and we get a big break in electricity.

Great video! Wow that’s cheap in a cold climate

That pump brings back fond memories. I installed a radiant heating system when I finished off the basement in my last house. It featured radiant heating above the slab and below the ceramic tile flooring as well as underfloor heating for the kitchen tile floor. It didn't need to provide that much heat - just the comfort of having warm, rather than cold, tile floors. I used a side loop off of my existing water heater. Three separate temperature controlled loops, so I had three of those pumps that you have.

Could you estimate your usage in KW or tell us what your electric rate is per KWH. I'd like to estimate costs in other areas or electricity needed from a solar system? Thanks, great videos!

Hey good to see your setup again! Man your electric must be higher than mine. My building you probably remember is 2300 sq ft and my bill is usually $200 avg. it was $250 one month when we had a lot of below zero weather but that was crazy cold. Also that includes all my electric usage not just heat. Curious what your cost is per kWh?. Thanks for the update.

Thanks for the update. What it has show me is that I sure dont want to use electric resistance to power my system. Even with the fluctuation in prices for propane going with a storage tank and a few solar panels, will be a much better way for me. Am thinking that the upfront cost might be a bit more, but the back end costs will be a lot more $$$ efficient. I live in zone 4 almost to zone three, so my heating needs are a great deal less than yours. I am using 7/8 inch pex al pex so I can go up to 500 foot per loop. What this means is just three loops. Really not a lot of reason to have balancing valves like yours. Three full port valves for me will be fine. I am looking to do 2 12k btu mini split heat pumps. They will not draw as much current as I am looking at 240 vac models.

Nice staff, thanks for sharing))

18 KW?!!! Holy #$%@$! That's some serious power requirements. I'll take air source heat pumps any day of the week thank you.

Probably a redundant comment but you could probably go with a heat pump water heater to save a bunch on the radiant heat. Many of the utilities incentivize that as well although in my area they force you to use an installer who just marks up their cost with the incentive...

Electric slab hydronic heat is the only way to go. Dont forget when you go from slab radiant heat to wood stove or mini split you are reverting to convection heat. Convection is totally different as humidity will be drastically effected. I would advise a air to water heat pump with an external wood boiler as back up or go solar with battery back up. My house with about 60 tons of concrete slab can withstand a day without power without loosing alot of heat.

just have to add a solar roof and some battery backup! let me suggest a Rocket Mass heater as an alternative to the wood stove.

Excellent video. I like the idea of those tankless water heaters as they would pair nicely with a substantial solar pv array. The cost for your system seems very doable. Very cool system and great explanation of the overall system and components. Thanks very much.

Thank you so much,

Radiant heat is the way to go. I don't understand why so many houses are heated with disturbed hot air?

nice job.would love to see video on how you flush the heaters.youll love the mini splits i use mine in the early and late heating season instead of my wood boiler and it works great

Compression manifolds blow Copper manifolds with honey well zone valves are the way too go. Wouldn't need balance valves if you balances your loop size upon square footage off the zone or snow melt area

I think that system would be great with hybrid water heaters

You might have covered it but what temperature do you normally try to keep the barndo at? Have enjoyed watching all your videos and appreciate you sharing the successes as well as the failures and how you overcame them.

good to learn

I have a geothermal system with all the valves ,pumps air bleeders, I tossed it all have a sub pump in a bucket in and out flow no pressure just what the pump pushes simple no air traps.in a closed loop system

Very impressed thanks for putting all the links. They realy help my. ? How do you know what size pressure tank or expansion tank to use

Do you have a supply line for the closed loop with a one way valve? You may need to add that so you don’t get a shortage of water

does different floors need different system or can it be integrated into one system? how comfortable you are about putting it concrete!! i am little concerned about leaks and having issues on repair as i wont be able to take it out if there is a leak

I’m not seeing your primary loop or pressure relief valve...correct me if I’m wrong.

Man that looks confusing but actually quite simple. You remind me of the actor Sean Astin from 50 first dates. Lol.

Great video. Was curious if you could share the kilo watt hours used when you estimated three cost for hearing one month?

Thanks for the great overview. Do you know what it costs to heat similar sized homes per month near where you live? And is cooling of your house going to be a concern in the summer months in your area?

Good show

What the heck, A young strong couple like yourselves should have a wood boiler system w/ electric back-up, I know you guys could easily cut enough wood to keep your butts toasty all winter. Nice system, I'm getting ready to install one in my barndominium, thanks for all the tips!

You should run multiple zones with thermostats in each section of your zones that is the whole reason for that manifold. The way you got it you dont even need a manifold.