AMMCO Model 4000 and 7000 Brake Lathe Usage 

Very good and thorough video of the use of this machine. I recently bought one and this video was very instrumental in me learning how to use and cut rotors. Thanks

I've watched your video again and you are correct so many people forget about the scratch cut. and they wonder why they have a vibration on the car after a brake job

I liked your video and have the same machine at my shop. Thank you for taking the time to go over your process in such detail.

besides the few mistakes you made this is the best video out there about machining rotors

Two things I'd like to say. One is why did you use brake drum adapters to turn a brake rotor? They will not hold the rotor accurately and you will get brake pulsation in many instances. I've learned this the hard way. Your school needs to buy the brake rotor adapter hub set. Nice technique with the die grinder putting the non directional finish. I couldn't bear to watch the whole video out of boredom only because I do it every day but you did a nice job. You have good technique tightening and loosening the arbor nut. Thats how I do it. One thing I didn't see or hear you mention is you sometimes will have to manually remove the ridge at the outside diameter and inside diameter of the rotor. Nice video. You are a good instructor. I'm an L-1 Master Tech with over 40 years in the field.

I had my drums turned years ago and they only did a ruff cut and man they grabbed like hell. Had to take them back. I didn't know. Got an inexperienced shop person no doubt.

Very informative video, are the bits negative or positive and why use one over the other ? thanks 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

The larger bushing that makes contact with the inside surface which makes contact with the car's hub is critical . If it doesn't your braking surface is going to run out and will cause a pulsation in the brake pedal. You should tighten the bushing up without the rotor and check with an indicator to see how true it is running. I think it should run within .001". Radial run out isn't important. Turning both braking surfaces is good as it will insure parlellism.

As a factory-trained Ammco service tech I've collected a decent amount of genuine Ammco parts over the last 40+ years. I'm retiring and have a parts inventory list if you are interested.

As you tightened the red knobs to secure your cutting depth, I think it increased the depth of your cut. That seems like a shame right after precisely dialing in your zero. I could hear the the cutting get louder and go from a pulsing cut sound to a louder, more consistent one right as you tightened the knob. A possible solution would be to keep those red lock-down knobs just a little snug when you loosen them so it doesn't deflect the bit when you secure them again after adjusting cutting depth. What do you think?

Hello sir this information is great I have Question I didn't understand can you correct me. first cut reading range and last cut reading range ? You told rough cut is it first cut ? can I take three cut or not if I feel there is uneven cutting?

some people just use the youtube videos to criticize, thats why they don't learn anything.many of them are pretending to know a lot and i wonder why they dont do their own videos 🙄

Great Tutorial, Thanks!

The hub face is what needs to be checked to make sure its true. The braking surface will be cut to that. Old rotor braking faces get twisted by heat like a potato chip. So measuring there does no good. On bigger rotors its a must to make sure the hub is true. Then we have the inner cup is not true issue. If the clean hub is not true the first cup needs to be faced. You can do it this way on smaller stuff but not on the big stuff.

Ok, why did you not cut to the end of the surface on the inner diameter? Now there is a huge high lip on there?

Proper rotor machining means you have to measure the runout on the vehicle and mark the high spot. Then set your dial indicator on the lathe and match what you measured on the vehicle. That's the only way to properly remove excessive lateral runout that may cause vibration or pulsation when braking. Rotor matching to hub is definitely an acquired skill. It really is not the simple.

i like this ammco7000 machine can i get the price

is this machine take any size of rotors?

Question what kind of Safety Glasses are those? I also wear glasses but could never find a good fit.

You dont need to hold a screw driver to the edge you can move the cutting bit in and do the same thing

No mention of belt speed?

The installer needs to clean all rust and dirt off the hub or all your good work is for nothing.

How not to machine a brake rotor. Jeez that was painful to watch. Typical motor mechanic no finesse and that lathe needs bolting to the floor. Any vibration will set up harmonics at the cutting tip. This will cause waves in the cut. Maybe too small for the eye to see but still there and wearing out the pads. Why the jerking of the nut which is left handed it will not make it any tighter and will cause the thread to pull and distort eventually.? Most of what you did I taught my students not to do. Only 7 thumbs up I wonder why? Sorry if you feel I am being a bit harsh but that was not a good way to show how things are done.

The larger bushing that makes contact with the inside surface which makes contact with the car's hub is critical . If it doesn't your braking surface is going to run out and will cause a pulsation in the brake pedal. You should tighten the bushing up without the rotor and check with an indicator to see how true it is running. I think it should run within .001". Radial run out isn't important. Turning both braking surfaces is good as it will insure parlellism.