Amsoil vs Mobil 1; Which is better? Blackstone Laboratories analysis results. The Montero hits 250k! 

All I know is I have used M1 EP in my truck since it was new in 2005 (Nissan Titan) have 340k miles on it and have not one mechanical failure due to any oil related issues. Routine Maintenance is key no matter what oil brand you use. Just change your oil often and don't buy into that extended oil change crap. Changed my oil every 6 months or 5000 miles whichever came first. 340k miles later? Still going strong.

I change thr signature series 5/30 every year, a little more than 16k miles in Florida. Acura tsx have 240k and engine is super clean and dont burn a dime of oil in that year, Blackstone told me to try go for 20k cause had plenty of life, but 1 year is enough for me.

Great video! I have been using Amsoil for 2 years in my Tahoe. No complaints.

I have spent thousands of dollars and hours on the motor oils and filters for six vehicles (three daily drivers and 3 work vans), motorcycle Kawasaki H2, and a waterski tow boat. Amsoil is a great product and I use it in my tests and Mobil 1 isn't even close now since they reformulated and changed their oil filters that end in A. There are many oils better than standard MB1, but the Extended Performance wasn't tested against the Signature Series Amsoil, but it is a knife in a gun fight. But there are better Amsoil oils than Boosted XL, which are Signature Series, High-mileage and Extended-life. Valvoline EP HM and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum are two oils that easily beat Mobil1 and are amazing oils. You don't need high mileage on a vehicle to use an EP HM oil. It does not swell seals and ruin engines, if you use regular oil after, but it does have much more additive packages and better detergents. Mobil1 doesn't even use a full Synthetic filter media in their filters but those are made by Mann-Hummel, who makes one of the best filters the Purolator Boss. Next to the Amsoil EAO, Fram Endurance and Royal Purple Extended-life filters, which are all identical and are made by Champion Labs. I enjoyed your video, but the results with no TBN on Amsoil was a letdown, because you used the Boosted XL oil, not Signature Series or High Mileage, or Extended-life. Then your next oil change you used High-mileage which has different detergents and additive package than the other products Amsoil produces. But where the problem lays, you had to add 3 quarts of oil in a 4000-mile oil change. Your engine takes 5-6 quarts of oil I would assume, so you are practically replacing all of the oil in the engine throughout an oil change. Why not just changed the filter and keep adding a quart every 1000 miles? These numbers are completely invalid based on the oil being added alone and not using oils that are a match to each other in the test. Amsoil is great, but pretty expensive to be adding a quart every month or less. Valvoline and Pennzoil make a product that is just as good, and you would notice the same engine smoothness and less oil usage. Nobody ever seems to test oils head-to-head or apples to apples. The mileage is also different between the two oil changes, but you still added three quarts of make-up oil along the way with 3000 miles. That is at least half, if not more, of what your engine holds to begin with. I mean, I love Amsoil and use it in my tests and strictly in my motorcycle and boat. I test oil analysis with different filters, different vehicles, all with different mileages over years. I have a pretty extensive database now and I continue to do so. Sure, it gets expensive but worth it. I have learned invaluable information and I have friends starting to do the same thing on their vehicles. If you plan on keeping that vehicle, why not have the valve stem seals replaced? I changed my own on my MKIV Supra Twin Turbo and it made a world of difference. No smoke at start-up and stopped burning oil. My Hellcat calls for Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w40 from the factory. That is the factory fill for all SRT vehicles. And with 900whp on the dyno, it does pretty well. It takes exactly 7 quarts and I have tried the Amsoil Signature Series 0w-40 and EAO11 filter two oil changes, and the car ran great and oil analysis were just as good as the Pennzoil and Valvoline with Purolator Boss filters. The Fram Endurance works all the same, since it is the same filter as the others. But I won't run a MB product in that engine because MB support told me that Mobil does not make an FCA approved oil. The results I have seen are just too far off on the other tests to even try it on such of an expensive engine. So, in the end I appreciate your video and I love hearing high mileage vehicles running Synthetic oils and not Warren oils like Kirkland, SuperTech and Amazon. I suppose if don't care about your engine, changed it every 3000 miles and use a good quality filter and not OEM junk filters, then maybe. But engines are expensive and good oil and filters don't have to be but a little bit more for the longevity and quality. Perhaps, if you have the valve-stem seals replaced, you could run a full oil change without make-up oil to have a real result. But you might have cylinder blow-by you aren't aware of at that kind of mileage. A compression and leak-down test would be interesting to see the results of also. Thank you for the video!

😮 real thankx that alot of time thank u agine i used mobil 1 in my 1.8 corolla mabe i will test the amsoil

i use ams oil its absolutely fantastic

Awesome bro

I’m digging the content, keep it up. When are you going to post up your projector headlight video?

Great information, thanks for sharing the data and your observations! I'm a big fan of Amsoil's products too, I'm going to be placing another order with them very soon. The only complaint I have is that they don't make a high HTHS 30 weight for street use other than their reduced SAPS European formula and they don't make their premium Signature Series in a 10W-40. Not many choices out there for premium high HTHS 30 weight oils or shear stable and low volatility 40 weight oils, which rules out most if not all 0W-40 and 5W-40 oils. The data sheet and analysis results for the Extended Life 10W-40 that you used look great and it's no doubt one of the best 10W-40 oils on the market, but I'd personally spend the extra few dollars on Signature Series 10W-40 if they made it.

I use the Mobil 1 0w40 European blend, I like the additive package. It’s the only Mobile 1 I will use in my daily drivers. I use the Mobile 1 20w50 in my race car.

i switched from amsoil to hotshots black diamond Outlaw diesel oil 15w-40 in my diesel landcruiser my mother couldn't be more happier

Good video. Only one correction. The unit average in gray is only the average of the two samples. To the far right is the universal average of all samples from all customers with the same engine. That is what you use to compare wear performance for your engine. I recommend you do new oil test so that you know the starting point for all tests. You had 4ppm of maganese, which is unusual. Did you use any octane boost additives with Amsoil? Manganese is a main ingredient of octane booster. Agree both oils were replaced long before they were needed. I would extend the Amsoil to 8k, then retest. I've been using Amsoil for 35 years.

I'm not so sure about the mobile 1 data base on my past experience using the mobile 1 oil. I feel my car didn't perform as good as it should using mobile 1. Hence why I switch to amsoil. The way it runs and perform after I made the switch is quite significant to where I can actually feel the difference it made to my car.

Have you Considered next time around trying Amsoil 10w40 premium protection? I think you will have a even better experience than the XL.

There’s no comparison Amsoil signature.. Probably the best oil on the planet!! Zero40 signature in my BMW 335i With 500 hp

I use to use mobile 1 full synthetic on all of my vehicles, but have been getting valve lifter rattling at every cold start. Until I decided to switch to amsoil signature series. With ever oil and filter change I did with mobile 1. I notice that the oil was very liquidy like water texture and the filter looks cooked. The motor oil just doesn't look like it has any of the lubricity quality left on it. With this new amsoil signature series. I notice that the valve lifter rattling was completely gone with every cold start. Which is how it should be with every start up. You shouldn't be hearing no valve lifter rattling during cold start. From now it's just gonna be amsoil for me. The oil life is just much better with amsoil signature series.

Hi man. Greetings here in california, and like you, when I was in Philippines I’ve always dreamt of having a pajero. My dad used to drive us in a pajero when I was 10. And now I saw one and the owner did everything including transmission filters and oil changes consistently. He also re geared and add lockers. But unlike the engines in the asia (diesel). I heard these engines have valve stem seals problems. Since you’re at almost 250k miles. Does it give you any problems?

Nice Galant (VR-4).

Enyone experians with using amsoil 0w20 SS in RX450H 2016-2022 cars? Think go from Toyota 0w20 oil to Amsoil 0w20 SS.

You should buy EZ Drain oil plus they are Great💯

You should use Mobil1 high mileage extended performance. It is better than the high mileage.

Amsoil is good. But any of the top tier oils will do the job. Make sure you use top tier fuel too.

I use amsoil on my car. It does run smoothly compared to the recommended brand on my sonata Quaker State

TBN for the ams oil?

Valve seals are old and worn nothing to do with your oil your useing. They are both premium grade.

What's the point of the test between them, you add 5 quarts to Amsoil and 4 to Mobil 1. There could be no additive wear.

The difference is not that big. I do not see the reason for paying extra for Ams.

What year is your Montero?

I like amsoil but there are good oils out there

Amsoil #1.

Changed oil is great oil🤷🏽‍♂️

Your doing oil analysis next time rather than changing your oil take a sample at your normal interval change out the filter see what the lab says if it's still good to go keep going take another sample at the next interval and change your filter top it off again see what the lab says. if you reach a year change it out. But use Amsoil engine flush to help clean more contaminates out maybe that lifter tick will quiet but at 250k+ I would seriously have that checked out it may be collapsing and will destroy your cam. Those engines generally begin to need to be rebuilt at that mileage.

Just use normal synthetic oils such as Kirkland, super tech or Amazon oil (since they are the same oil) and change every 5k for mixed driving and you’ll be fine. That’s for group 3 oils. No need to go with these fancy group 4 or mystery oils unless you are driving a race car. Complete waste of money and time if you do so. All oils have to meet same minimum specs. if you use GTLoils, which are high end group 3 or group 3+, such as pennzoil platinum uktra, with which you can go to go 7k miles mixed driving . If doing stop and go delivery and idling type of driving change. Every 3k and maybe 4k on GTL oils. If just highway miles on cruise control go 7 or 8k on normal synthetic and 10k on GTL. So that’s basically it. Use conventional oil if you have older car such as a truck from 2000 that you put only 1000 miles a year. Time wise synthetics upto 1 year and conventional upto 6 months. This way you are not wasting money and product and also protecting your engine. Group 4 and group 5 oils are for racing purposes and are a waste of money for your daily driver. People get fought up in brand loyalty instead of understanding that oil is primarily affected by heat cycles, fuel dilution and oxidation & shear wear, and not by miles driven. An oil with 2000 miles of a delivery vehicle that does all day idling and stop and go driving may mean more worn than someone who does 200 miles freeway driving daily and has 8k miles. Always use the weight specified by the automaker and do not deviate from it. Today’s tight tolerances and VCT engines need correct viscosity or engine damage will occur. No need to add additives either. If you are driving a race car, such as something with 700 hp and 12k rpm, then you need to worry about group 4 or 5 oils otherwise you are wasting your time and money. Your Toyota Camry or dodge 1500 hauling grocers or going to work and back at 55 mph does not need group 4 or 5 even though you love your car and “feel” that it will benefit from it 😂😂

Man you got oil fever. Lol.

Not enough sound.

in wear metal no diff.

Amsoil hands down. I won’t use anything else.

No oil is better. Oil is same thing Time to change is same thing.

Who invented the combustion engine? Was it a Christian engineer? Does the principles in the Christian bible have tge power to make people more ingenious?honest question