An easy way to look at CUSTOM FITTING SEWING PATTERNS to your body - Pattern size vs garment fit? 

Hi Evelyn, with me it's my shoulders as I'm a typical British pear shape, narrow shoulders, but wider hips. And I struggle every time with things like dresses or tops. 💕😊

other people are pear shaped but i'm more of a cone lol i have wide load hips with narrow shoulders so i end up with huge armholes and big chest ease

Hi, I have been sewing dresses for my daughter all her life. Now that she is a teenager, with a very athletic body (small bust, stronger waist, and preteen hips). So she can be a 12 up top, 14 in the middle, and 10 on the bottom.

I agree! Usually this is the easiest way!

Shahida Begum And if you have a large bust, choose the size that fits the upper bust, then adjust the full bust. Otherwise you end up with the shoulder seams falling off your shoulders.

Right, I have read that your "true" size is armpit to armpit... this does not change with weight gain etc...

This is all revelatory!! Thanks so much for these wise words!

Except for making a jumpsuit. My butt is huge and when making pants I always have to make the butt curve longer or start at two sizes or so larger and fit my garmet tighter around the waist... the same often goes for convetionally bought pants. And it is reslly important since the butt curve doesn't stretch at all. Not even with things like leggins. If it doesn't fit it always wants to go into my butt... The other thing I have to do with jumpsuits is lenghtening the torso... I could never wear them before making th3m myself because they were either too short in the torso or too huge on me. The same goes for swimsuits. I always had to opt out for a bikini...

I am 5'1 with tiny waist bigger hips..I have no trunk length..abs, to hips are crushed together..SMH anytime i want shorts, pants, sweats.. I will always need to self create

Well done. But making up a pattern in the end is good for a record, and if you want to make duplicates.

🤩Or makes my day to hear this! Happy sewing!

You are correct!! 12.20am for meeee!! 😴😴😴 And I think your so right about slowing down. I like the way said it about just rushing to finish so you can wear it! I also made huge improvements in my skills when I stopped thinning about it as something I can wear tomorrow.... and more about the process of what I'm doing and doing it right! ❤

i used surefit designs custom pattern drafting. Slacks are tricky

I have been sewing longer than I care to say and slacks are STILL a garment that I don't try to make. So tricky.

Hi Emily, how is your dressmaking going? Are you taking sewing classes? I was where you are now, 40 years ago. It always bring me joy to see young ppl interested in sewing, cooking & baking bcz when I look for a buddy to partner up for any of these hobbies, they walk away never interested. I feel these hobbies are truly dead these days. Quilting is all the rage these days, but why? They can just buy a nice duvet & that's it, but clothing is worn and we can make whatever we like to wear. You won't find it anywhere else. It's an original. The choice is up to ourselves; colour, fabric, style, length etc. Thank God I never need to buy paper patterns. Once I learnt how to put fabric pieces together and use a sewing machine like a pro and that was in my mid 20s after much practice, I did a pattern drafting course. I much recommend it. I found it too much of a headache adjusting sizes on patterns someone else had drawn up. Also I often found their sewing instructions as clear as mud. I was left stranded. When you draft your own, you know exactly what you've done and it's much easier. I was a baby beginner also. I never knew anyone who sewed. I didn't know how to attach a button, let alone take up a hem. I never thought I could do it, but once I understood how it all works, it was easy peasy. I have since missed the company of like-minded souls so I have to do these things on my own.

I think you right in track! Both with your shortening of waist (doing it this way means your waistband still fits the waistline on the pattern, and for a male fit should still work for you) and making shorts for a mock up is a great idea! 😃

Then extend the shoulder line at the armhole edge and widen the bodies at the underarm point then draw a straight line down to the waistline.

I'd exchange your broad shoulders with my narrow ones anytime!

Aww that's so nice!

My mother was the same way. I wish I had sewes more with her.

Aww well thanks for watching! Perhaps you will be inspired to dust off that sewing machine someday! 😀

I so wish I could carry off a lovely shade of lipstick like that. It looks fairly garish with my coloring though. I get my vicarious lipstick fixes through others. :)

I think it's all about the right shade, ans just wearing it anyway! I used to think my lips were too thin to wear it 🤔🤣

Kim is it easy to do that though with the two different pattern sizing? 💕😊

@@lynnniblock8355 It's usually not super hard to combine sizes. Usually you just have to figure out which sizes you need and then when you're tracing the pattern, transition as smoothly as you can from tracing one size to tracing the next size. You'll have to take additional measurements above and below the standard measurements so you can see where the shift happens.

Easy is a very relative term, I think. I would suppose it to be doable for anyone who either has some understanding already of how patterns are constructed or patience (stubbornness), curiosity and a mind to try it out. As well as acceptance for things to maybe start out so-so and need a bit of mockup adjustment untiI one gets the hang of it. I'd say it's a nice challenge with rewarding results, and a very handy skill to have. What I do is compare my measurements to the measurements given for the different sizes, and then trace the pattern for the corresponding size around the area of the measuring point. So I start with the center front/back line, marking where neck, waist and bustline would be on the size that would closest fit my back length. Then I add the shoulder point and line from a size that fits that measurement, the bust area and lower armhole from another size, waist from a third and hips sometimes from a fourth, making sure to keep the same center front/back line and to keep the bust, waist and hip lines level and corresponding over different pattern pieces. Though sometimes I just trace the areas/points where they are on the pattern and shorten the back and front lenght to my measurement afterwards by folding away some length between bust and waist and some almost at the shoulder. With some patterns it is easier to make sure that the length adjustment is equal for all pieces that way. I join these areas/points together into whole pattern pieces by trying to trace smooth transitions between them in a way that keeps the new measurements while imitating the shape of the original pieces. It usually helps to have a good idea of how the pattern pieces are supposed to fit together to make a shape, so that one knows what type of line is needed, if it should be straight, curved, angled and so on. I then compare and measure the different pieces and see if they still fit together, and adjust a bit if needed. Making sure the sleeve of the size I need fits the new armhole and such. Unless I am VERY confident in my new pattern or have worked with a very similar garment before, I then make at least a partial mockup to see what might need more adjustment/correction. So it doesn't really take away the need to make a mockup/muslin, but there's usually less adjustment needed. Usually for me I just need to adjust the bust point or curve slightly, potentially take in the armhole a bit (especially for sleeveless things) and make sure the shoulder sits nicely. I haven't really done this with pants though, mostly tops, jackets and dresses. With pants I usually trace a pair I have that I really like the fit of, and then make a mockup from there.

😀😀 Awww thankyou! I'm glad you enjoyed it!!

Get an adjustable one! It makes all the difference. They have regular and petite ones that I know of-my husband gave me a petite one years ago (I’m 5’1”), and it’s saved me so much money and tears. My bust is just enough bigger than patterns or dress forms, so I dialed it to fit my rib cage/high bust and put an old bra on it and filled the cups in with batting, then put a stretchy cover over it. As I gain/lose that pesky 10-15 pounds, I just spin the dials to adjust her size.

Perma Pen UK that is a great idea. I love check and plaids. but hadn’t really thought to use the built in measurements.

@@adamreynolds9816 Yes, seeing the checks droop in all the wrong places is very illuminating!

Awww I'm glad to hear it! 😀 Happy sewing

Ice Princess you must be my twin lol

@@rachelunderwood4868 Sewing still beats the heck out of buying clothes though.

Me three

Drafting from scratch is never easier 😭

Same here size wise x

Now this is very interesting idea! Your right, I've never heard of 'turning a women's clothes into mens'. I'm going to write this one down for later reference, I think it could be a fun topic to explore, I habe a surprising about of men in my sewing school! Thankyou for the suggestion!

I agree it's something we never stop learning about!

🤔 Yep, that will cause you issues fitting for sure!! Have you been adventurous enough to try a full bust adjustment??

I use SureFit designs to make a custom sloper. I think you may find that helpful. She has a paid system but loads of youtube videos

Thanks for following! I'm excited about your vintage sewing dreams! And I get called Snow White alot! 🤣

Hi Perry, try "Tock Custom", he has a great short sleeve shirt video, the whole thing + another where he brings it in for a fitted look. I just made my first shirt last week so go for it!...also made the mother a skirt but the colour wasn't right for me

@@richardlionheart3965 thanks I'll give it a shot

Lori B 5’1” here. I feel you. But once you figure out your length adjustments, doing them becomes part of your pattern prep routine.

Many patterns have lines for length adjustments. They’re horizontal and are marked “lengthen or shorten here”. Usually on the bodice, sleeve, and skirt/pant pieces. I think even the ones I own that aren’t marked Fit For Petite or Petite-able have them. More pattern companies are adding fitting helps to their patterns the last few years. And if you really get into it, they have adjustable petite dress forms. My husband bought me one for Christmas years ago, and she’s been a great help to me.

@@pvanpelt1 Thanks a bunch! Always good to hear all of this helpful info.!!

😀😀 Eric perfect timing then!!! I'm so excited! Fitting is hard, as you really have to learn to apply the skills in your own way, and learn how to adjust patterns at the same time! It is the focus for the next 6 months at VSS so ww will be covering lots! I look forward to having you in class! 😀

I took a sewing class years ago, and the teacher always cut 1” seam allowances just for that.

Thanks for watching! I agree, a mockup seems like such a waste of time when you start..... then you realize how much time yoy waste because you didn't do one and test enough first! 🤣

I've learned to love the test garment(s), not least because I make all the construction mistakes on those first. I rather like the slow-sewing.

Muslins are great for trying out the pattern, and making sure the garment will look good on you. One of these days I’m going to watch for a good sale and buy a whole bolt of it just to have on hand.

pvanpelt1 absolutely! Good fabric is so expensive and fitting issues are not easy to fix so better to try out the pattern in the muslin!

Oh that is a tough one! Asymmetrical through the body would be challanging

Bernadette Banner, can help! :) She has scoliosis as well.

@@Evelyn__Wood yeah, I know...that's why currently I'm sewing basic bodice. I hope that will help me. One thing I have learned is to add few more centimetres to shoulder seams.

@@jessieowenwillis5755 my case is much severe, but thank you any way 😉

Looking at scoliosis images online, it seems there is still a plumbline to be had from neck to floor which you could fit to, if not to your spine. Left and right sides would be separate patterns, but together they would drape nicely rather than hanging up on one side or the other. I might also create/find asymmetric patterns for more visual balance.

I never fit on my manniquin, only on myself! I have another video on fitting garments on yourself here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MW6EbH-g8Ms.html Is just a case of taking it on and off at least 124 times! 🤣

I actually used that method yesterday while making a top. Thank you for your reply. You’re the best.

You can take pattern drafting lessons. Flat pattern drafting requires no dressmaking dummy. Those bought paper patterns give everyone a headache as it did to me all those years ago. It can be difficult to follow what others have drafted for you and their sewing instructions leave a lot to be desired if you are putting something more difficult together. When you draw up your own pattern, it is made from your body measurements from the beginning, thus cutting out the fitting which is a pain. Look into it if this is what you would prefer to do than bothering to do all sorts of adjustments. Let me know. Good luck.

Oh and pant adjustments to make them fit! Never quite learned when to do what. I know I need "riding pant correction" usually, and probably switching some darts from front to back (that's simple enough). But the fitting the curve and the crotch... And of course they always need that!

You'll know what to try nect time 😀

What kind of thread are you using?

Gnomee I wasn’t using the thread that came with the machine, I used thread I bought online, and I think that was the problem! Because when I switched to the thread that came with the machine, it stopped jamming, so I will be ordering more better thread.

It's a refashion actually! I have a workshop for it for members of Vintage Sewing School 😀

😀 I'm glad to hear you have been able to see how the same skills translate! I wouldn't say that I have any unisex tutorials here, but lots of skills and ways of thinking you can apply to any sewing project! I will keep it in mind though as I seem to have alot of gentlemen sewing friends here!

Hi Apwelch. I suggest you get a men's pattern drafting book. The title is: Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear 5th Edition out now, by Winifred Aldrich. It's an easy enough book. You can do courses which are easy as pie, you draft the block form with a square with multi sizes on it, all you do then is join the dots. Then you can use the above book as a guide to draft patterns to your size.