Thanks Jason I was researching on how to properly do this and I couldn’t find anything until I came across your video. I am definitely going to get this kit from SDHQ. Thank you sir, and I will be looking forward to watching some more of your videos.
Jason, I’ve been looking forward to this one! Since the body is mounted to the frame with rubber insulators there needs to be secure ground to both, from both batteries, hence the redundancy. The Engine needs to be grounded to body and frame as well but I think this is designed in from Toyota. Good job, you didn't let any smoke out of the wiring, success!
Your boy is adorable. Get him in there. When my son was two I came home and he was crying his eyes out. He broke the back off the back of his favorite toy truck. I asked him if he wanted to cry or fix it. He looked at me like he had an epiphany. Five minutes later he was wearing safety goggles cleaning the broken connection with a Dremel and mixing up JBWeld. His toy was fixed and he got his first taste of accomplishment. Fast forward to nine years old and he won't go inside while doing mom's brakes in the rain because the impact wrench is his job. At age 11 he has his own 4Runner with plenty of time to fix it up.
Great video Jason. The cool thing about living in the Wasatch Front is that they're so many off-roaders and outdoorsmen that the information on what you need and how to do it is right there. BTW, can't believe how much your wife and daughter look alike.
Always enjoy your content delivery style Bro. It’s like hanging out at a barbecue getting the info directly with you. And the music is an added bonus. Congrats on the new setup and thanks for the info, ordering a kit for my truck.
Bonding, I think is the answer on the dual grounding points. Sounds like you routed grounds fron the frame and body. "Body on Frame Baby!" Great Work!!
They did such a great job with the instructions. I was really worried it would be daunting - but I could have hammered it out in a few hours if I hadn't been filming.
Put the Blue Sea ACR system in my boat five years ago. No looking back, great system. Best part....no worries mate. Can sit anchored at the beach with music on all day long, turn the key and she starts. You will most definitely be happy with the peace of mind it gives you.
Good job giving recognition to your other (better) half for supporting your goals and dreams. Also being cool with spending mad money on ALL the overlanding gear.
Interested in this project when and if i get a truck. Fingers cross. Thabk you for the post. I enjoy spending time with you and your beautiful family God bless them. Good post
Awesome build! The voltage that is off from battery at front to volt meter in back is likely load line loss IMO. I suffered from it with using less than stellar wire gauge.
different kind of style i like it . good to see something new and different on youtube. everyone uses the same music and editing. you are different keep it up i like
Great video. This is something I have been looking for awhile. I have a dual battery setup in my 80 series Land Cruiser and going to do a dual setup in my 5th Gen 4Runner. Did you wire in the manual control switch for the ML-ACR? If so where did you install the switch? The switch allows you to control the batteries from connecting manually from the cabin. Why the 2 different size batteries? Heard using the same group size is best. I am going to run the MTZ-34/34R for the 4runner.
Jason, I have this exact same setup in my 2006 4runner. My secondary AGM battery does not get charged enough though. The Alternator won't fully charge it. Been doing some research and it seems a Redarc DC to DC charger would be good to charge the secondary battery but then again it couldn't connect the two batteries to jumpstart if you needed to. I'm thinking I might install one of these Redarc units then only use the BlueSea solenoid for jump starting. Hence the Bluesea unit will be turned off instead of remote.
You may have a variable voltage alternator that is causing your problem, if so a dc to dc is the way to go, get one that you can also run solar through, it will increase solar input into second battery as well.
Victron also makes DC/DC converters, both isolated and not isolated. I use the isolated one to charge the LiFEPO4 battery in my trailer while driving. It needs higher voltage than the lead acid vehicle battery. Charge voltage can be set on the unit. Works great and isolates from the tow vehicle when turned off. Costs like $70.
Always love your content Jason but I really feel you should have gone with a proper DCDC charger. With a solenoid kit like this you just won't get enough energy through to actually charge fully and maintain an AGM. Modern vehicles, since around 2005 I think, run variable voltage alternators that do just that, vary the voltage depending on many factors like heat for the sake of bettering emissions. Because of that they never output the full 14.2v an AGM needs to come to full charge. No solenoid will be able to step the voltage back up to where it should be to fully charge an AGM like DCDC chargers can. If you ever want REALLY good info on all this check out what the Australians do. US companies keep pushing solenoids since they're cheaper but never seem to bring up the merits of a DCDC charger. Redarc BCDCs are nice but $$$$. Projecta IDC25 is much cheaper and has just a big a following if not bigger in oz. Yeah you won't get a bolt in kit like you got but you also won't risk prematurely killing your batteries due to constant discharge. TL;DR Should've gone DCDC charger for high resiliency.
Agree completely. I had Dual AGM with the ACR from Blue Sea and an alternator voltage booster. This setup took all day of driving to get the batteries to maybe 90%. I installed a BCDC1225 and now a days worth of ARB 63qt fridge takes less than 2 hours to charge 100%.
Paul and Keith, I am thinking of going dual battery. My starter battery is just a good ol' Interstate non-AGM, nothing fancy. Sounds like for a second battery I should get the exact same thing for compatibility. My question is, would your comments regarding the DCDC charger apply to my arrangement as well? Or were you saying that about Jason's deal because he's using AGM?
Hey I know this is an older video, but have you had any issues with the blue sea isolator? I’m debating wether to buy the red arc isolator/regulator slash a bunch of other functions. The one thing I’m concerned about is the blue sea isolator not being triggered while driving to charge the 2nd battery due to the fact my Tacoma’s alternator isn’t a constant voltage. I’ve been told it will vary in voltage output in certain conditions for the best fuel efficiency. If it hasn’t been an issue for you though I may go the same route.
@@timothypeterson845 I actually haven’t done anything yet. Since I haven’t been able to get a straight answer since I started looking into this I’m a little undecided. The red arc option seems like it’s best option. I might use the the blue sea not for dual batteries but as a disconnect switch for front and rear jumpstart quick connect plugs. I put a warn winch on and it gave me the idea.
Blue Seas ACR will be triggered while you are driving or idling. Combines after 30 sec @ 13.5 V (ON) Combines after 90 sec @ 13.0 V (ON) Opens after 10 sec @ 12.35 V (OFF) Opens after 30 sec @ 12.75 V (OFF)
Thank you for another great video with great details! What happened to your thumb and what kind of brace is that? I’m looking into getting a brace for some thumb pain issues. Thx!
Adorable kids! I have an 07 4runner limited 4x4 with the v8. I have aftermarket lights and ditch lights. I want to add a light bar on the roof rack and scene lights on the side/back. Any thoughts on if another battery would be needed? I don't overland much but I do camp out in nowheresville. Great video!!
nice setup. I also get 5-10 calls a day from robocallers! love the setup. my daughter is about the same age as your little son , she wants to work on the tundra rig with me. my tundra cuts off like that too. I am a master honda tec and it freaked me out as i have never seen that working on hondas my entire life.
Question: have you already, or are you thinking about a higher capacity alternator? If not, why? I've watched your video and a few others a few times, trying to get up the nerve to do this myself like you have done. Thanks
I'm still confused as heck but I appreciate the idea! I've been following you for a while! I finally got a 2017 TRD off Road 4 runner!! Im looking for ideas!!
Skipped the step of dislocating and relocating that wiring harness under the second battery support. The instructions that came with it only says disconnect one support on the interior fender wall but the harness has to be completely taken off all 3 supports and somehow taped or ziptied underneath.
About to do the SDHQ kit with 2x Ody 34s. Curious if you have a parts list for everything you used outside of the kit? For example, is the ACR you used the "SI-ACR Automatic Charging Relay - 12/24V DC 120A"? Great video, great inspiration for mine haha.
Wow, you didn't mention this at all in the video but dang! I am gonna bring my oil filter wrench for my wife to open cans! I can't believe I've never thought of that until I saw you open the salsa with it! Wow
Been waiting for this video! Want to pull the trigger on a dual battery system but wasn't looking forward to engineering it, SDHQ makes it so simple!! This helps. Question: are you batteries hooked up so that you can combine them to jump start another vehicle or operate your winch?
Add a minimum 100 watt solar panel to roof as well, giving solar input into second battery ( via a solar regulator or dc-dc charger ) when vehicle is parked outside and run your fridge 24/7. My setup is a Projecta 100 isolator from main battery to a 120ah agm second battery backed up with a 100 watt roof mounted solar panel through mppt solar regulator and it never gets below 12.6 volts running a 65 lt ( 17 gallon ) fridge 24/7. My average daily driving is only about 20 miles with a 60 mile trip once or twice a week. Solar kits are awesome, efficient ( even on cloudy days ) and low cost. Pro tip for 12 volt fridges, keep them full and running 24/7, turning off and on for trips will kill their compressor and reduce lifespan.
I run a 27F X2 Power(Northstar) deep cycle battery. I can have it run all Day and start it the next morning. I keep the Stock battery in the back, just in case.
To set the automatic function of the ML-ACR, set the yellow lever to the REMOTE position and leave the center push button unlatched (unpressed). In this state the ML-ACR operates as follows if it sees these voltages on either battery: Combines after 30 sec @ 13.5 V (ON) Combines after 90 sec @ 13.0 V (ON) Opens after 10 sec @ 12.35 V (OFF) Opens after 30 sec @ 12.75 V (OFF) If you want to manually combine the batteries (ON), depress the center button while the switch is set to REMOTE to latch the batteries. Once in this state, the batteries will remain combined for a minimum of 10 min., after which it will go back into automatic function based on battery voltage. To manually disconnect the batteries (OFF), the yellow lever will need to be switched to the LOCK OFF position which mechanically raises the center button to isolate the batteries from each other, and cannot be overridden in this mode (center button cannot physically be pushed down).
How bad does the extra battery strain the alternator? Do you think it would shorten the life of your alternator? Great install video...🤙🏼 Also, do you have link to the second battery kit?
Not a bad video but needs improvement. 1. Your explanation for the dual battery wasn't on point. Further explanation of what that second battery actually does, controls and contributes would have been more helpful. 2. You had no distribution fuse box or if you did wasnt shown how its also hooked up the the second battery. 3. What was in the rear of the car to help explain what you were actually powering. Is there a power inverter or air compressor in the rear? 4. Do you have a redarc controller I seen? If so, further explanation on how that also hooks up would have helped. Thanks.
Why are the wires so small I would never use less that 0 gauge for a dual battery set up, 2/0 would be my normal set up. You might also want to do the "big 3" and replace you alternator with a high output one. Not as hot, realy I like the hot Sadie's.
Jason - Why did you relocate that magnificent picture of the Belafonte?? That deserves to be the center piece of a room...Not hidden on the wall behind an open door! Come on now! Are you or are you not a member of the Zissou Society? Please don’t tell me your just an unpaid intern.
What did you use to boost the battery charge rate required for Odyssey batteries? This voltage booster works great and is a simple install. You also get a overboost setting for extreme cold. www.arclightleds.com/collection/dual-state-voltage-booster-5th-gen-4runner-fj-cruiser-pg2tb-brs6a Yes I also upgraded all my dome lights with ARC Light as well :-)
Could be good for some people that like family value videos. But for a tech tip video ya just talk to much and do too little.... Sorry but I was interested in a duel battery setup. I'll go to a food video for the salsa tips!!
Yes. You can do front locker - best done with a regear since it’s all opened up anyway. However, the front axles, to my knowledge, aren’t as strong and locking the front may cause other stuff to break under load.
Have you ever thought about getting your amateur radio license ie ham radio license. I think it would bring more electronical knowledge to your life and you would understand electricity better. Awesome video's pease from Montana keith de kb7zpb a ham radio operator and teacher
