An Unusual way to Build an Insulated Folding Garage Door 

😀 Thanks! Glad to hear that!

To get the size of the precision I was impressed with the way You to work. simple for me as a beginner .. 👍

Thanks! Or the best of both worlds! Entertaining craftsmen and crafts women!

Thanks a lot John! Solving maybe, avoiding ,not always!

Thanks a lot! Never to late to give it a try!

Probably could have been cheaper and easier to use wood for the frame instead o steel.

Sycophants too

I use this same technique when building wood fence gates, I run the 2x4 across both 4x4 post, build the frame, then cut it off after I put the hinges on. Very good technique for perfect fit doors/gates

Thanks a lot Sharon!

Thanks! It still needs a lot of work but I’ll get there eventually!

@@Ollaris you will and it takes a lot of time. I've been busy for almost 2 years. Every time I get something new tend to want rearrange the whole workshop! Good luck and enjoy it!

Thanks!

Köszönöm! Örülök hogy tetszik!

Thanks Michael! That’s why I do it! ☺️

Ha! Thanks!

Thanks a lot!

Köszönöm szépen Gyula!

Szia.Én most tudtam meg!

Thank you very much!

Thank you very much! You too!

Thanks a lot! Welcome!!!

Thanks a lot

Thanks, yeah I’ve been working on it here and there but haven’t edited the video yet. Hopefully soon!

Thank you very much Lucas!

@Miserace Well actually it’s exactly the opposite when working with steel. 😄

@@tomfull6637 I believe this claim needs an explanation. To my knowledge the direction of a compression brace has to be from top/far side to bottom/hinged side to actually serve a purpose, which is to transfer the force applied (or just the weight itself) at the far side to the bottom of the near (hinged)side. The force wants to push the far side down, gets redirected diagonally, trying to "compress" the brace, which it can't, so the door won't sag. There is a way of putting a brace in the other way around. But then it has to be under tension, "pulling" the far bottom corner "up" into the top hinged corner. I don't really get why the material should make a difference.... but i'm always happy to learn something new 👍

@@Miserace well as long as the brace is long lasting (wood + screws/nails are not but a welded metal brace is) it doesn’t matter if the brace is hanging (pulling) or standing (pushing) diagonally, the square (door) can never loose its 4 x 90 degrees angels owing to the brace. In this video an angle bar (fairly resistant against bending) is used as brace. (And attached to the wood it gets extra bending resistance. But... Now imagine a brace made of flat steel bar! Also imagine a naked door without wood ie just a frame with a diagonal brace. A flat bar requires in pulling force some 250-350 Nm/mm2 x its cross section before it starts breaking. (25-35 Kp/mm2) Pushing force on the other hand.... when exceeding a certain length (in relation to its width and thickness) and not very long actually, you start making a bow of the brace. In this case approx. a 2,5 meter (8’) brace, you only need a very little pressing force to start the brace to bow. Hence the hanging brace is more reliable and foremost easier to calculate as you don’t have to consider the integrity of the bow resistance any attachments of surface dressing (wood or other) brings along.

Dankeschön!

Thanks!

Thanks 😊

Thanks