Thank you for this clear, in-depth look at the products, released the same week as they were on sale here in Sweden. I have been considering both charger and the 8Ah battery and wanted some more information. The storage and lower charging current modes is something I have been wanted in more li-ion applications.
Thanks for a very nice Review/Teardown! The 3Ah Battery was actally sold, but under the "Florabest" Brand. FAHE 20-Li B2-1, but is compatible with the Parkside 20V-System.
Cool to know! I know the Parkside manuals mention a PAP A2, I'd have imagined Florabest used the same designation as it all went through the same office, before Lidl realized pushing everything as Parkside would build a stronger brand than have dilution with Florabest, Powerfix... I am curious how the 'engineers' at OWIM/KOPERNASS/GRIZZLY work with Lidl, and how much input they actually have on the products (obviously they design the 'colors' and typical Parkside 'overcomplicated' technical looking surface features on the tools) but I think most of the actual technical design is from the catalogue of a big Chinese tool manufacturer... If anyone has an inside scoop that would be cool to know!
@@GadgetEngineering I think it was the toolbrand "Graphite" (shown on the YT channel Work an Fun) that has nearly an identical tool lineup as Parkside X20V (probably the same chinese factory) ;)
Yes but a Lot of free space, best charger i saw its a Fein small very powerfull 8A Bluetooth and USB port … and design is incredible small battery contain 4 led diods incredible easy to look without thinking. Specially this design I don’t like too much a lot of stupid notes on it and shape material … if they will do like fein I will be very satisfied and already fein going into bosch batteries good for future but killing own fein chargers and batteries
I have a similar batery with problems. It cannot be charged, the leds do not light when push the button and (important) U3 and R44 are overheating. In the video you made these components are at min 10:42, near the P+ connection from the power connector (U3 is near the tip of your finger). Do you have any suggestion for solving this problem? Do you have the schematics of the battery?
Hi, I bought the 8Ah version and it doesn't show me the discharge or the charge current, I thought there was no shunt inside and the Performance line of tools and charger would give the battery the information and the battery would just send the information further to your phone. But since you showed that there is a shunt, Do you have any idea on why I always get 0A? I only had a like 30A shown with an impact driver for 2 seconds but after that I couldn't get it to work anymore. Thx.
The charge/discharge indication is very fickle, with the soldering iron or hot glue gun I only see an instantaneous 1-2A draw for the first instant, the tools also don't show much current unless you really load them. As I said in the video, the shunt is just the calibrated piece of nickel strip connecting the first/last battery, with the round oval punched out to increase resistance. It is very 'insensitive', I don't think it shows anything under like 5A reliably, and for that (5Ax20V=100W) you really have to load any tool up, like driving a massive screw with the drill, and even that is just a momentary task. Best test would be the hot air gun, but its rare. The charger gives you much better charge current indication, because it is measuring it itself. In summary, the battery charge indication is very lazy, and I have rarely seen it differ from 0 too, albeit for some short instants of high draw. I'll test draw running the new 1/4" impact with some large screws, should be out in the next few days, then you can see and compare performance. Cheers!
@@GadgetEngineering Ok mate, I tested the shunt and it seems to be a 1mOhm shunt, I cannot see where the trace goes because it's under the terminal block so I think I will put it together and just forget about it since it still works. But I must say that I'm really disappointed since I wanted to use the expert mode which cuts of from 5A to 100A when powering other projects.
@@ciprianwinerElectronicManiac Do I understand correctly, you wanted to use the PCB as a current limiting element? As you saw with no MOSFETs it's only a software current limit.
Wow, a lot of very good informations. Thank you. You can set the Discharge current limit. Thats very nice. But 40 A or more is a lot for the 4 Ah battery (5 x 1).
Thank you for this great review! Is the fan a standard 40x40x20mm? I see it has two small pins (no speed regulation). Do you know if it is 5V or 12V? I plan to change it for a Noctua regarding noise. Thank you again for your work.
I put it back together a while ago, but just looking at the circuit it is pulling power directly from the battery charge rail, which will be at ~20V, so it has to be a 24V fan, size wise it must be very standard 40x40x20 looks right. Let me know if the repair makes a big difference. Do you do 3D printing, Noctua/cooling fans and all?
Can this new battery with bluetooth be charged with the old charger plg 20 a1? I have already charged it once with this version of the charger. However, the battery manual does not mention it as compatible with this battery.
Hello , can you tell if there is a hack to use this charger, or even the older one , that have an ID contact, so that we can charge other type of battery that have 21V, not only parskide ? i mean is there a hack that can help us to make the parkside charger to give the output voltage , because as is, it does not give any vollgate until you connect a parkside battery . thanks
Hi I want to ask you if I can, I have 2battery model B1 and B3 a 2Ah battery and the control green LED turns off at 19Volts and only yellow and red remain, whereas on the 4 Ah the green turns off when the voltage reaches 17.3V, that is, on one the green turns off when the 3.9 V cell instead on the 4 Ah it turns off when the cell are 3.4 V . The only red LED lights up on the 2Ah battery at 17.3 volts, whereas on the 4Ah battery the red LED lights up at 16.5 volts, i.e. at a lower voltage. Why i have on green and red Led diverent voltage on 2Ah and 4Ah same battery model B1. I mean on 2Ah battery red is on when the cell are 3.54 volts instead on 4Ah red is on when the cell are 3.3 volts. Is could bee a defect bms or is it the different management of the BMS? Why same battery with same voltage indicate diferent color on LED ( red,green ,yellow) Thank you
any inductors must have a diode in parallel, this flyback diode is any diode connected across an inductor used to eliminate flyback, which is the sudden voltage spike seen across an inductive load when its supply current is suddenly reduced or interrupted. It is used in circuits in which inductive loads are controlled by switches, and in switching power supplies and inverters. This diode is known by many other names, such as snubber diode, commutating diode, freewheeling diode, suppressor diode, clamp diode, or catch diode.
How does the low voltage protection circuit work ? I was thinking of using one of these batterys with a 3d printed makita tool converter so I can try out some of the cheap chinese made for makita batteries tools.. 'on the fence because I know the old battery's rely on the tool to cuttoff the current, but if the new one can be programmed , then it might be safe enough to use on a couple of cheap 2 pin makita clones or whatever from china..
Same question here about the low voltage protection function. Since I was not aware on the first view, @Gadget Engineering explain it in his video, for the records: At 2:23 he shows the software current and voltage parameter limits and explain that there is no hardware security. At 25:33, he explains that the tools use the T signal pin to check if the battery is OK and can use it or not. For a simple clean hardware cut off for a DIY project, I thinks we have to use this T pin state to open/close a relay. I will try that for my futur portable power supply. What did you do so ?
@@simondelaigue5521 I didnt use them in the end.. Not worth the hassle.. I sold all my parkside battery's and chargers and bought Einhell battery's, much better and the battery's are protected as they have a low voltage cuttoff inside and not the tool..
Hi great post and very thorough. Please could you comment about the MCU chip - i have problem with my charger .. It doesn't switch on the primary switching circuit and i think the problem is with this IC . The IC is supplied 3,3 V , the wi fi module is sending request for com to this chip ..nothing On the IC is written "HP201201" but i can't find anything with google as information. Do you have some insight about it ? Thank you !
Amazing in depth analysis! I just purchased the charger and I put a battery at 67 level and pressed the 60% button. Do you believe that it has go a discharging function? The fan hasn’t stopped working and the voltage (and %) drops slowly
On my charger, after 2-3 min of charging, R2F and R2E produced white smoke and burned out. The charger didn't stop working right away, I unplugged it. In your opinion, why did this happen and what are these two resistors for ?? Can you please see what the values of these two resistors are ?? Thank you for your content!
I think you might be able to fix you charger, as long as the transformer coil and switching transistor survived. imgur.com/a/oAIIPKw See the annotated pictures on the above imgur link for clarification. R2F and R2E are two 47 Ohm resistors in parallel (23.5 Ohm together). They are in series with the reverse EMF/flyback diodes (D1 & D1A), which are in parallel to the primary transformer coil, but pointing in the "blocking" direction. When the transistor switches current through the coil, on the OFF period, there is still energy stored in the coil/inductor that could damage the transistor, so this diode allows that energy to discharge back through the coil and dissipate. The diodes D1/D1A, resistors R2E/F, and R2 A-C, are all in series, and serve to limit this reverse current ( 2x47 Ohm in parallel, 4x620 k Ohm in parallel, respectively). There is also a foil capacitor C? (2.2nf, marked 222J 1000V) across the four R2 A-C resistors. The resistance in series with the diodes is more than enough to limit the current during this reverse coil discharge to not damage anything. The only way your failure could have happened, is if C? is short circuited, or there is a shorted resistor R2A-C. That way high current could flow through R2E/F and damage them. Any damage to the flyback diode system means increased peak voltage on the transistor collector, which it is not able to handle, and could fry the transistor, even shorting it, and so frying the transformer coil too. I hope this hasn't happened! You should measure all the components in that area, specifically the diodes D1/D1A (S3M) in diode test with a multimeter, it should show ~0.6V Vf in one direction and open/OL the other way (the diodes could have been damaged by the high current, if you see bad readings, replace them, any 1000V 3A rectifier diode will work). Pin 1 of the transformer to Pin 2 should be 0.1 Ohm, Pin1 to Pin 3 1.1 Ohm. Ground (-) to Pin1 or Pin 2 should be +10 M Ohm. Across R2F and R2E you should measure 23.5 Ohm (2x 47 Ohm in parallel). Across R2A-C you should see 155 k Ohm (4x 620 k Ohm in parallel). Check that C? (green foil cap on the other PCB side) is not shorted (its capacitance can't be measured in circuit, desolder it and look for ~2.2 nF). Test across the pins of the switching transistor (marked E, C, B) for shorts. Then test B-C and B-E in diode mode, in one direction you should see ~0.6V, in the other OL. All other combinations should be open/OL. If any of the pins are shorted the transistor could be bad, and the circuit will not function. Also check Cds/Cds1 are not shorted. The current limiting resistors R0* (10x 2R*, 0.22 Ohm in parallel) serve to limit current through the transformer coil when the transistor is conducting. If you find any defective parts, replace them, the value of C? is not important, any high voltage foil cap 1 nF-100nF should work fine. Even leaving it out will work. Let me know how you make out and if you manage to fix it. If not, I'm curious what components were bad/shorted. Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck!
@@GadgetEngineering WoW !! That is the answer😍. I have never received a better answer in my life !! Even before your answer, I measured that one diode D1A is bad (0.2V 130 ohm in both directions). Now, thanks to your detailed answer, I can check everything else. D1 is "regular" Standard Recovery?? Not schottky ?? Thank you
@@hkavalir Glad to be able to help, thanks :) Yes, they are standard 'slow' rectifier diodes, Trr 2.5uS. Here is the S3M datasheet: www.farnell.com/datasheets/1859516.pdf You can replace it with 2 or 3 1n4007 if you have nothing 'better', that should work fine, with 155k Ohm series resistance, there can actually only be like 5mA flowing through them (say 700V max/155 000 Ohm=4.5mA), except with the 2.2nF capacitor, there could be a momentary flow of 29A (700V/23.5 Ohm), but that resistor would charge in nanoseconds. 1N4007 can do 30A of pulse surge, so yeah you could even replace both diodes with 1N4007 and it should work fine. The other non-fired diode might still be damaged, even if it shows good at multimeter testing voltage (~3V). Be sure to change both. Let me know what else you find ;) Srećno!
17:33 - do you think that soldereing some antenna pigtail directly to antenna trace will would improve wifi reception and transmission? When my soldering skills are crap.
Any idea how does the low voltage setting work if the battery has no way to turn itself off? Maybe it sets the T pin high or low? Want to build a diy project that uses the pack but also don't want to over discharge them.
Hi, I am trying to use the Parkside 20V batteries instead of V-mount batteries for film equipment. As I see it I have to transform the voltage. Any hints with what I can do this easily and also keeping it compact/sturdy? Vmount is 14,8V nominal. The minimum is likely around 12 V the max 16.8V. Any tips appericated! Thanks a lot
Hi mate. Exactly same battery BMS has broke down.. wonder if I can setup universal BMS into this pack? Question how solve 4pins in parkside.. specially T port and id port? T port is thermistor u said equivalent of 10kohm but what would solve the Id port?
This type of smart battery could charge with a normal Parkside charger? I wanna buy an 8A smart battery,but i dind'n wanna buy smart charger..... I have many normal chargers....
Yes, all fully compatible across the whole 20V Team range. All chargers interpret the ID pin and if possible adjust their charge rate. The older chargers are just limited to lower currents.
@@GadgetEngineering Great explanation! Good boy! I have a question: how can I fool the pin ID? Having built a battery (with non-original 5S balance board of course) the charge does not start due to the pin ID that does not recognize it. As for the tools, no problem, I solved it with a simple 10K resistor between negative and pin T. Could you help me? Thank you so much !!
@@alanporta7241 Here is my explanation of the battery pins I gave to someone who asked something similar. in short, you'd have to set up something like an arduino or at least an ATtiny 45 on your battery to send out the serial ID signal. My recommendation is to find some scrap 20V Team boards and use them on your battery, but that could be hard to find, ideally you'd be able to dig around Lidl's returns/scrap bin :) Explanation: There's actually 4 battery connections: - T ID + negative and positive are self explanatory, "T" means possibly thermistor, but it really isn't providing a thermistor connection, it is really a battery status OK connection, that when status=OK is a 10k Ohm resistor connected to the negative connection, when status=BAD it is open. It come into play for the battery to signal its status to the tool, as there are no switching elements/mosfets in the 20V Team batteries, and all battery protection switching is done by the tool. So any time the battery detects an overtemperature, overcurrent, overdischarge, or cell imbalance state, it opens the T connection. The tool is using this connection as part of a voltage divider, 5V from tool->10k resistor->sense connection to MCU->battery T pin->10k resistor->negative. That way at the sense connection the tool either sees 2.5V, meaning the battery internal 10K resistor is connected to negative, the battery is OK, and the tool runs, or it senses 5V, meaning the battery side circuit is open to negative, which tells the tool the battery has some kind of problem, and stops power flow. Only tools connect to the T pin. Chargers connect to the ID pin which is a 5V serial communication, giving the charger the battery capacity so it can adjust charging current. I showed this in the charger ANALYSIS video. There are only 3 known (maybe 4) IDs, 2Ah, 4Ah and 8Ah (perhaps there is also an ID for 3Ah,although those batteries were never sold, PAP 20 A2). The serial code is about 10 bits long and as I said just defines the battery capacity, repeating ad infinitum while connected to the charger. Hope that answers your question!
It repeats on a loop on the ID pin constantly during charging, I measured it with an oscilloscope. Here are two pics of the different signals, 2 and 4Ah. Still haven't had a chance to measure the 'new' 8Ah one, though it will be similar. imgur.com/a/foXxS6N
@@GadgetEngineering Ok. That's interesting. Is this ID signal generated all the time from the battery or it need some conditions !? I am looking to charge another battery type from another manufacturer with this charger :)
planed use 8ah to backup my laptop. battery not have ampere check, so charger or istrument send ampere charche/discharge to the battery. also need add protective disconection to prevent battery dee discharge.
You are right. The strongest 21700 cell is the Samsung INR21700-40T which has 45 A. I do not believe Parkside use this cells. I wrote grizzly Tools more than an email, but they didn't answer.
Hi friend, do you think older 18650 battery's are better than newer 21700 with Bluetooth? Maybe it's better to keep the battery ic simple. In few days at my country lidl has pap 20 B3 for 29.99E and paps 208 A1 for 54.99E. For now i only have plg 20 A4 charger but i will buy this smart at your video. Witch battery you thing is better buy? For tools i use pabsp 20-li c2 and pkhap 20-li A1.
