Andersen Ultimate 2016 5erHitch Unbox, Reverse Mount Explained 

Bill Smith qq

+J Bryan Kramer Thank you for your comment. My assumption (possibly wrong) was that anyone that would bother with this video had already seen the manufacturers videos which are more professional and do indeed show the hookup process. I did think to show the hookup at the end because that funnel adapter is new. Should I have time to do a re-edit, I'll definitely take your suggestion.

+Eric Ball It started out as just a temporary solution until I could decide where exactly I wanted to place screw holes in mounting it to the underneath of the trailer nose. Then I realized that flipping the block meant I was going to have to go around from the drivers side to unlock while all my other tasks (brake/light line, 5er leg hydraulics, shore power etc.) were all on the driver side. After having it that way now for about a year, there's no doubt this is the way to go for us king-adapter flippers. Thanks for the comment.

Bill, I routed my latch cable around behind the pin box and placed the handle on the driver side. I fastened it with a lag bolt the fastened the fiver cap to the frame and another screw into the fiberglass. You video told me more about the Andersen than I ever wanted to know, but I sent it to a friend who is very demanding about how things work.

You can just leave the Anderson pinbox adapter in the normal position for more cab clearance. The reason to reverse the pinbox adapter is relative to which pinbox you have. By reversing the pinbox adapter, my Mor/Ryde pinbox rotates completely within the walls of the truck bed because the reversal changes the pivot point. If you had a shorter pinbox where that pivot point was not an issue, you could of course not do the reverse. Lastly, can't speak to your Ram questions, sorry but I'd just be guessing as I have no experience or knowledge of the dimensions etc.

The one in the video is for my 2015 GMC. Both the Curt adapter and the OEM ball that came with the truck have a similar tube that drops into the hole. That tube has (2) holes/side penetrations. The tube is notched so it only slips in one-way. In order to remove or insert your tube, you pull a lever that is just above the drivers side rear well. Mine is orange and I just grab, pull and twist to get it into the unlock position. Then I drop the Curt (or OEM) ball tube in the bed, then untwist and releast that outside lever. The lever has (2) pins that then slip into the side of that tube locking it in place.

My goosemount was dealer installed and the hitch has 2 chain attachment loops that are part of the mount. The popup thru the truck bed, one on either side of the ball hole. I think you are saying you are thinking about getting rid of the rail mount and going to what I have which is an underbed, flip-over goose ball. To that attaches the Ultimate on top of the bed. Not sure if this will solve your nose high issue. The Curt ball will move your trailer nose away from the cab but it won't do anything about any nose high/unlevel issue.

The rail mount has handles in the base that I clipped the emergency cable to. I bought Reese rail loops for the safety chains. I have the factory 5th wheel prep package, so I bought the Reese goose ball and safety loop kit. The ball drops into the center puck and the loops into the rear pucks. However, the 3220 covers those pucks, but Andersen has approved using a hole saw thru the base of the 3220 to access those. Only the Reese puck loops work for that as the Curt loops are angled. The reason for being nose high is that the Andersen rail mount sits on top of the 2.5" high Reese puck to rail adapter that I got for the Reese 16K hitch in my previous truck. The 3220 should be an inch and a half or more lower as it sits right on the bed.

The reason for the Curt 4" extension is to move the pivot point of the trailers pinbox. Without moving the pinbox when I make a sharper turn, as the pinbox spins around within the bed of the truck, I can see where the very back of the pinbox would come in contact with the sidewalls of the truck bed. This is related to my particular LCI 1621 type pinbox. I read where some had used a grinder to remove the inch of so of pinbox tabs at the back so as to avoid this issue. I chose to use the Curt 4" instead. With the Curt in place, as the pinbox spins on a turn, it no longer contacts the side rails. As for your question about nose up, if I am to understand, I think you mean you currently have the nose set higher so the pinbox spins above the side rails. If that is what you mean and if your pinbox has the same dimensions as a standard LCI 1621, then the answer to your question is yes. If you go ahead with getting a Curt 4", just find a big open parking lot and ease your rig into a sharp turn, go slow and stop every few feet to get out and see where the rear of the pinbox is positioning itself.

Appreciate quick reply - this helps as I am newbie to this stuff

To change the pinbox pivot point.

Can you tell me which item you mean by "pin"?