Rocky your video was watched right before I was going to order a Weigh Safe WDH middleweight. Ordered the Anderson instead. Was on the fence but your video pushed me for the greaseless, lighter weight Anderson. Picking up the GD Imagine next Friday 👍🏻 thanks
Does the ball and socket really need to be clean and dry for proper sway control? What or how is the friction applied to the pivot? Rocky, thanks for the great video! Really appreciate the extra steps you took measuring the front as well as the two scale measurements. Jim
@@RVJimDAt 2:34 Rocky shows the plate below the ball and the bottom of the ball shank. The ball shank passes through a cone-shaped hole and within that cone is abrasive, ceramic material similar to that on brake shoes. The more pressure applied to the ball the more friction is applied to the ball shank preventing it from turning. Since the plate is attached to the bottom of the ball with a pin, and then to the chains attached to the trailer frame, sway control is applied. The bolts and plate Rocky points to can be removed and the abrasive cone replaced should it wear out. It’s a very good system and has served us well with our 1/2 ton truck and 7000 pound travel trailer.
First time watching how these hitches work.I work at Camping World and we sell lots of hitches,now I can be a better sales person because of knowing how they work.
@@RockyRohde We didn’t have a good experience with towing it would sway a lot worse with the wind. So I was told to turn off the sway control in the truck. Made a big difference. With it in it was causing to much friction.
This has to be the BEST ever tutorial and informative video yet! Excellent job!!! I am considering a Winnebago Micro Minnie and had been considering a Equalizer hitch.....not now! My 1st gen Tundra has a lower CCC and saving the weight will be a big help. The Anderson looks so much easier to handle. I have a cardiac issue and the Anderson is well within my ability to install and use. Thanks again, GREAT video!
Thanks! Glad my video helped.. The Andersen wdh is better technology without old school weight. I absolutely use mine and it is way better than heavy bars.. I used to just leave vehicle hooked up at rv parks because I didn’t care to mess with hitch.. now it’s a breeze to unhook..
I have the same setup. Ram 2500 and Andersen hitch. Also needed the 8" drop. Ram's sit high! :) Also, I found when installing the frame brackets it's best to have the trailer hooked up, but literally zero tension on the ball. Then put your chains on and screw the nut on the chains until there's about 1/2" showing. Pull the brackets so the chain is tight and tighten down the bracket bolts / set screw. At their recommended 29" or whatever there was way too much thread showing for their socket to be useful.
I bought one late summer 2022 and have enjoyed using it. Nice to be able to back up and turn without anything binding up or making a bunch of noise. Also lighter and way easier to hook up and tear down when leaving from/getting to the camp site. I recently decided to replace all four brakes on the travel trailer and went ahead and did an axle flip to put the axles underneath the leaf springs. Raised the trailer 3 inches so I had to raise the ball but gives me 3 inches more ground clearance at the hitch and the dump valves.
Purchased a new TT last year, and purchased the Anderson WDH. Love it for all the exact reasons you highlighted! No grease, lighter components to deal with, great anti-sway control, quiet operation, no need to disconnect anti-sway before backing up, etc. etc.
I have used mine for 3 plus years, works amazing. it is about 50 ish pounds altogether, very light weight compare to other brand. Never had sway issues down the road. Highly recommend this product...
Just have to say, you really nailed everything one needs to know about this WDH. I've always used the conventional style hitches and now I'm buying a new trailer and back in the game of needing a WDH and really liked the idea of this Andersen but boy, the solid info is sparse! Lots of videos start out good but quickly fall short of the real important stuff...like CAT Scales! I'm heading to my dealer right now to see if I'm buy an Andersen from them....or off the internet. Hopefully the former! Thanks so much!
@Jim Chopchik I bought the Anderson right after my post above and hit the CAT Scale with my trailer. I was a little light on my front axle on my first pass and made a super quick adjustment on the hitch and came out perfect on my second pass. I'm super happy with this hitch and it's so much more convenient and easy to work with than all the uber heavy convention trunnion bar style hitches. I'll never go back. The Anderson leveling wedges coupled with a Levelmate Pro makes the process stOOpid easy and fast, as well.
I love that set up for the weight distribution, I have the old style heavy bars with a chain, that setup is very pricey but Lord it takes a lot of weight off the back of the truck and the tongue of the trailer.
Great video Rocky, enjoyed it. I had this hitch right after they came out and found your findings spot on. I’ve been on fifth wheels since and wanted to see if anything had changed. I agree the hooking, unhooking and carrying parts was the easiest. I would recommend you hook your chains from the front to the back, especially if the little springy retainer is gone or there’s not one. With the chains like you have them, in a turn, with slack in the chain, hit a bump, the hook jumps up and the weight of the chain pulls it off the truck. If you hook them from the front to the back and you slack off the chain and you hit a bump, the chains do not fall off. I see you got the little tin metal latch on it, but some people watching may be using the round S type with no safety catch.
excellent video.... ordered one. You should see if you can get an affiliate link. Also, I was told by Anderson that you can tighten the hitch more, but that the diameter of the red spring should not exceed the diameter of the washer.
I had the RV dealer install mine. I was fishtailing above 55. I couldn't tell at the dealer, but the trailer was nose high upon arrival at home. 8K trailer with 800# tongue weight. F350 w/ 4K payload. Your ball is where I would expect it should be. They had mine set so the top of the ball was ABOVE the bumper foot step........................
I've used the Andersen for years... The Andersen has some of the best sway control available. I did it the way you did it for the first 2 years, then realized that if you reverse jack up the rear end of the truck using the pin jack of the trailer PRIOR to tightening up the chains you have better weight distribution. I've found this is the step that many people miss. It made quite a difference towing for us, far better bounce (porpoising) protection, and even better sway control than before.
What does reverse jack up mean? Do you mean to attach the coupler to the hitch and then raise both the truck and the trailer together, and then tighten the chains, and then retract your jack so that the full weight of the trailer is on the tongue with the hitch engaged?
@@JDDJR7 yes, exactly. I have used the Anderson on a number of different applications and the second I did it that way it made a massive difference. But prior to doing this you need to permanently affix and Or weld or screw the chain mounting points to your frame. Once you do that it will not slip at all. Doing it that way also provides greater weight distribution to the front
@@rjhein Exactly the way I do it too, it just made sense. My new to me toy hauler came with the Anderson hitch and I just did it that way not knowing any better : ). It works great still after about a thousand miles with it.
Yup, I pull the truck up pretty high with the trailer jack, THEN attach the triangle plate and tighten the chains so 8 threads are showing, and THEN lower the whole thing down so the truck is taking all the weight. The result is no sway, no bounce, no porpoising. And that's with my 2014 Tundra Crewmax that has a terrible payload rating. Love the Andersen hitch!!
The 4 turns is the starting point, I count the threads. I setup by counting 5 threads and depending on the weight after loading it, I can go to 6 threads if needed depending on the load
@John Daniel as little as possible, I don't like putting pressure on the urethane bushings while tightening the nut. I jack up the camper turn, then lower. I do that until I am done
It seems like this system would also help with bounce on uneven roads. My system continues to lift up to max upwards motion and lift increases all the way down. This seems like it provides max lift sooner and releases completely when it’s not needed. I may give it a try because my hitch was old when I installed it and I worry about fatigue
At the start of your video, you mentioned that a conventional WDH with spring bars puts a lot of force thru the trailer A-frame rail. This is correct. Trailer frames are designed with those loads in mind. Those forces can be fairly high, yes, but they're being applied vertically thru the ball and the frame rail. The leverage point is usually about two feet away from the ball on the frame rail. In my opinion, the Achilles heel of the Anderson is that it changes the direction of the loads used to lever the weight of the tongue. The chains pull the trailer up tight against the coupler latch. As a result, the lever arm is much shorter, specifically, the height from the chain plate to the ball, which is only about a foot. To generate the same moment around the ball as a conventional spring bars requires double the force (or more). All of that force is now being pulled against the latch assembly of the coupler. I have yet to see any details from the coupler (or frame) manufacturers related to sustained loads in that direction. Also, this often results in the frame brackets slipping against the frame if people don't use the screws to secure the frame brackets, which reduces the weight transfer. Finally, from your scale tickets, we can see that the hitch restored 200lbs to the front axle. However, without a unloaded truck weight (i.e. without the trailer) we can't see how much weight was levered-off the front axle to start with. While the fender heights are a decent indicator of front axle load restoration, they're not as accurate as a scale weight, especially in trucks with heavy duty front suspensions (like my super duty with the plow prep package). While I've never personally owned one, the early discussions around this hitch when it first came out indicated that it struggled to be able to transfer much more than about 200lbs back to the front axle. On heavier trailers north of 800lb tongue weight, most trucks didn't seem to be able to get back to the original front axle load with the Anderson hitch. Not trying to put down the product, just trying to share another viewpoint. For many trailers, it's quite capable, and I certainly understand the advantages over a conventional design. Giving credit where credit is due, it's a unique design and I like the concept, I just don't feel that the pros outweigh the cons.
The only thing that gets me is it seems you can't go too far positive in the angle of the truck to the trailer, like turning into a driveway with a bit of an incline. Wouldn't that force a lot of weight off the drive axle, onto the hitch chains and thus the tongue, where the traditional spring bars would have some flex in the bars? I don't see where this has that much 'give' in the tension system.
Great video. We have been using this for 4 years behind our Renegade 38 ft Super C. Love it. BTW You were almost 100% road ready. But you did not have the hitch pinned. Thank you for the video. This is the only hitch I will use.
I have a TT which is about 1K lighter than yours. I have used an Andersen with a 2500 Ram for 3 seasons and thousands of Rocky mountain miles. Works well with a proper truck like yours.
@@safrench I agree with pulling anything over 26 feet with a 3/4 ton. But, not the 6500 trailer weight. Many half ton trucks are rated for 10, 000 pounds or more. The weight of the trailer will not be the limiting factor for a 1/2 ton. Pay load will be exceeded long before you reach the max tow rating.
@@bobdrawbaugh4207 I will be installing my Andersen hitch on my TT and pulling it with my F-150. My TT is 26' box length and 6,800 lb gvwr with 800-900lb tongue weight (using my Sherline tongue scale). My truck is also my daily driver when I'm not traveling with the TT and I didn't want to have to drive a 3/4 truck (or pay for it) for the majority of the miles that it would be driven. I ordered my Supercab F-150 with the tow package and 18" wheels for towing. The very first thing I did when I got to the dealership to check out my truck was open the drivers door and check the sticker. This half ton truck has a payload of 2,175lbs and I will have a comfortable amount of payload remaining even if I load out the TT to its max. The truck has a tow capacity of 9,400 since it's a 4X4 and I didn't get the 373 gears. I know I'll probably have to listen to know-it-all's in my travels tell me that my truck is too light but I'll just open the door and point, then wish them a pleasant day.
Thank you for the time you put in this review. We are first time Travel Trailer owners( still on order) in our 70’s. Towing was one of the biggest stressors that had talked us out of the RV life for the last 4 years. We finally said, WTH, we’ll never know unless we try. You took a lot of the anxiety out of this process with this video. The weight aspect had a big factor with us choosing this hitch. After a few months, anything new to add? Thanks again. Larry
Well I do have a question. Sort of confused me. You said you measured to the height of the coupler and got 10.” And the ball needs to be 1 1/2” taller. That’s where I’m lost. For everything to be level it would seem that the top of the ball should be the same as the top of the coupler? Thank you.
You want the trailer to sit almost level with truck. Most trucks will drop 1” to 1.5” with weight. For initial setup for ball height hook it to truck and adjust it up or down to find the closest to level. Once you have that add the chains and tension.
@@larrymccorkle3409 he threw me off with that too, but he meant 1ft 10in. He repeated it when he measured the truck side and said '1ft...10.." that when I caught on to his measurements. Great video!
Nice mega cab. I run Anderson no sway as well. Haven't run anything else, so couldn't give you a comparison. I do get a pushed around a bit, but the sway control bushing seems to keep things from getting out of control 🤷
Excellent job on producing your video. I like the simplicity of the Andersen hitch. Have you notice any wear of the chain links? I'm thinking of ordering one of these. I hate messing with the grease a and the weight of my E2.
How do you know when the trailer and truck weight are floating?? This is such a helpful video ....trying to understand what you are seeing that allows you to know that. Thank you!
You can tell when you have both hands on the steering wheel white knuckled. It just does not feel stable. This happens when you have to much tension and rear wheels do not have enough weight.
@@RockyRohde When you are first coupling the truck to the trailer and you lower the trailer onto the hitch just until it couples...you then say the truck and TT should be 'floating' meaning almost no weight on either. You are sitting next to the jack. What are you seeing that allows you to know they are 'floating' at that point?? I'm having trouble judging when I have coupled then lift the truck up with the jack just how far is 'floating'. Thanks for your patients with this question. Absolute newbie.
Wasn’t the 4-turn tightening of the nut supposed to be done with the camper/trailer already sitting on the hitchball? I was basing this observation from the official Anderson Hitches video. Im getting one tomorrow and wanted to make sure I do it right or not put too much tension on the chains. Great video by the way!
How is backing with the Andersen; can you back with the chains connected, etc? Haven't seen any good vids showing that procedure. Am comsidering an Anderson for a 26', 7590 GVWR trailer. Y'all Be Safe!
In the video (8:10) you put up a message about torque numbers (75-90 ft-lbs) for the brackets on the trailer and it says depending on trailer frame. What is the determining factor(s) listed in the manual regarding the frame for the correct torque? Thanks.
He didn’t say grease the anti-sway … he recommended greasing the spring bars that do the weight distribution. Anti-sway is performed by a different bar.
great video.. I'm new to towing a camper, always owned a motorhome towing a Jeep. So, I'm researching both trucks & camper trailers. For a camper, I was focused on a Terra Oasis (7,500 gross weight), but after researching the Lance 2075 (5,900 gross weight) and watching all of your wonderful videos, I am thinking this may be a better route. I see you what looks like you tow with a 1/2 ton Titan with max towing about 9K lbs and max payload about 1,600 lbs. How is that working out for you when you are in high winds, semis passing on the interstate, or climbing 10K' peaks? Do you ever wish you had a larger truck? Thanks!!
Rocky, you still using this? how is it holding up, 1 yr later? I have an e2 WDH setup from FastWay. But it is super heavy. I tow with an Audi Q7, and any unnecessary weight I can shed would be awesome. Very well done explanation and walkthrough on the install and setup. Thanks for this. Subbed!
Has anybody found that this weight distribution hitch stretches the receiver cup at the beginning of the trailer so that it becomes a elliptical and has trouble accepting the ball
I have a Ram 3500 Limited I think you have a 2500 and coil springs. does yours have air ride? I have a 22ft enclosed trailer that I use for tool trailer I am a mobile Heavy equipment mechanic. Just bought haven't received yet same WD. I have 1400lbs of tongue weight. and live in Florida make multiple trips to our place in NC, trailer pulls ok but feels funny sometimes ,hoping that this make a difference, being a heavy truck with air ride will only drop a 1" but I get weird messages and warnings say air ride will not function properly, cannot adjust, but it's already up, when I first pulled I didn't have a tongue scale now I do, but Cat scaled it and had 1600lbs. Top of ball was actually worn. I had a big 72" Snap On tool box across the front full, was just to much weight..Box weighs 1200lbs empty. Anyway swapped it out to a Harbor freight 42" and removed a lot of my tools. The trailer was custom built "V" slant nose,12"OC floor cross members and 7000lb torsion spread axles, and a 7000lb ramp door, with 7'6" height. so wondering if this will help any on a HD truck? I see you have a big truck I race here a mega truck or Hill in Hole Jeep for a few years. hence my name Joker Jeep.
2 questions. Can you put your tailgate down? And have you taken off the supports on your trailer frame to see if those anchoring bolts have damaged your frame? I'm currently running a 2021 GMC Denali HD with a 2020 Jayco 280RSOK trailer and the combined weight is 19,200. I am using a 14k Equal-I-zer hitch and I've got an 18" shank on it to allow me to take my tailgate down. The problem I'm having is that the hitch weighs a ton and I'm not a spring chicken anymore.
How did you loosen the chains at the scale? With the big socket? If so, HOW do you know how much to tighten it again, unless you start over and count 4 revolutions I don't see how you'll know. And is 4 revolutions AFTER hand tightening or..? Sorry, I'm a girl. 😅
quick question to anyone, on the Anderson hitch, there are 2 receiver pin holes, Does it matter or have an effect on operation if you choose the hole closer to the truck or farther, If I use the 2nd hole to put the receiver pin through, it actually allows me to open my tailgate but I'm curious if this matters, I'm assuming not or they wouldn't have put the option there for 2 positions but wanted to get thoughts.
100 yrd tape? Man a 48 inch measuring stick would have made things much easier and way more accurate. I had an Equalizer hitch and greasing the bars were not in the instructions. I think that's where the friction helps to reduce sway. With that said, I do appreciate the video. You definitely demonstrated just how light the Anderson hitch really is.
according to those cat scale tickets , both times the rear axle outweighed the front axle by a few hundred pounds give or take...shouldnt the axles be the same or as close to the same ratio as trhey were when you weighed your truck alone? as it sits the front axle is still lighter than the rear so despite the heights of the wheel wellos being close to original im betting that front axle is still at least 300 pounds lighter than the rear making it imho iffy when it comes to stopping
No it’s not supposed to balance.. just shift a percentage of weight to front axle. Your payload rating is designed for the rear axle for the most part.
It’s not a ratio so much as putting the pounds back on the front axle. If your front end is 1 200lbs lighter you want to get as close to that as possible back on the front axle.
So technically.. was your drive axel overloaded without that hitch engaged? I have a 19 ram 2500.. my axel rating is 6000lbs. I'm assuming yours is similar?
Rocky (or anyone), how do you deal with porpoising and bouncing? GMC, Ford, Chevy, or Ram...which truck handles the best for bumper pulling? My GMC 2500 towing GD Imagine using Andersen bounces all over the place...not sure if it's the hitch, the truck or the trailer. Comments appreciated.
My gm bounced a lot with my fifth wheel also.. I would try some stiffer shocks.. My Ford did not have any bounce.. both trucks are leaf spring rear axle so it more than likely has to be shocks.. I have had all three late models and the Ford is the best for me towing.. Shocks should be an easy fix for you.. Yours might be bad.. Remove the bottom bolt and see how much resistance it has..
Great video. Do you get any sway when you are passed by a big tractor-trailer? I currently use a Blue ox sway pro with a 30 ft trailer and a half ton F-150. Crosswinds usually don't affect it at all but when I am passed by a tractor-trailer it sways a lot. Sometimes I feel like I'm being sucked into the tractor-trailer's lane and then pushed off the road after it gets by me.
The sway is less than I had with bar hitch.. one thing to remember when passing trucks is have a little pull on trailer and going down hill. When trailer is pushing the truck it will sway with winds. I always make sure I’m accelerating slightly when trucks are beside me or when going downhill.. A lot of peeps will let off accelerator when trucks go around as it’s the natural feeling. Keep a little pull on it and it will help significantly with your current hitch also
Great video. I have this hitch and I have struggled so much with figuring it out because I also have the air suspension. Quick question: when you do all your measuring and setup, do you have to turn the suspension off and put it in tire jack mode?
Here is how I setup my tension. I hook it up to trailer and let air suspension adjust. Then I raise it with the jack about 2-3 inches and snug chains by hand. Then I drop the weight back on vehicle. You will notice chains are tight and should be good to go!!
Are you still using the anderson hitch and liking it? I have a stryker 2912 and using husky now. Looking to have less bounce after crossing bridges and such. Thank you
I just installed one of these last week for a new trailer using your video and the one from Andersen. I noticed some issues with your install and wondered if you went back to correct them and if you noticed any difference. First issue was with the triangle plate. I see you insert the pin and then swivel it into position with your hands. If that plate can swivel that easily you have no sway control. Mine was similar, but followed the directions of using a piece of wood and mallet to knock the plate inline with the bumper. Did you ever fix that? What did you have to do? Next noticed your installation of the trailer brackets were not done according to directions. Sounded like you measured the brackets at 29” instead of using the chain lengths. Mine came out at 28” at the top and 27.25” on the bottom. Which is another part of the install that differed. You installed the brackets straight up and down with the chains pointing to the ground. The installation calls for pulling the top back as far as possible and the chain on the bottom as parallel possible. Essential at an angle with the top further from the coupler. Did you ever go back and reinstall the brackets?
@@laker42 you won’t regret it.. My Toy hauler is 36’ and I load my lifted canam max XMR in the back…. It weighs 2700 pounds. Pulls like nothing is behind me.. plus no more popping and creaking..
I adjusted to my chain length.. here is installation procedure download2271.mediafire.com/tf1c7iiuv9kg/bx5xm3p7hie6515/3932+-+WD+Hitch+installation+manual+2022-Low+Res.pdf
Rocky : Well presented. I'm in the same boat as yourself : Getting a new trailer & tired of lifting the heavy old hitch & bars. My only concern is most of the youtube's the people had pretty light or small trailers. Mine is about 8500#'s wet. Now that you have had yours for a time, has your opinion changed? does it take the sway out any different than old set up? You showed the 4 turns on the 'port' side; did you do the same on the 'starboard' side as well and just not record it?
Just pulled my trailer from Texas to Florida. It was 1092 miles each way with golf cart in trailer. Pulled like a dream. I absolutely recommend as it is so easy to hookup. The sway control is as good as other hitches. When I hook the trailer up I latch it and lift truck about 4-5” from being able to latch hitch. Then I hand tighten each side to remove slack and I let trailer down. The chains are extremely tight and pulls well for me. I don’t really use the socket and wrench. I let the jacket do the work same as a bar hitch. The hitch is very quiet and I love the fact I can remove it without killing my back. My days are done with bar hitches. You will have zero regret with the Andersen. Most that have anything bad to say about it don’t own it…
2 questions: with th 8" drop you are all set for a truck with a lift kit? also how do you know what size bracket do you need...that sheet shows different bracket size for the 10k gtwr...please help.
I ordered the 2.5 shank from Andersen. 8” should be good for a leveled to 3.5” lift truck with 35” tires. If you are stock with no level kit prob need a 5”.. I ordered the larger drop and if it was to much I could just cut it off..
How have you liked your Stryker trailer? Quality good? Would you buy it again? Do you have any issues with the width of your Can Am when loading it into you trailer? Do you drive it straight in or do you back it in?
I am currently at Disney ft wilderness in Florida. Trailer pulls great and I really like that it has shocks on the axles. Just traveled 1200 miles and carried golf cart with us. Quality in build is good for me.. I have had a 44 voltage fifth wheel and it is about the same. Stryker offers a really good toy hauler with larger tanks and good floor plans. I like a 16ft garage, large King bed with room to walk around it, and a large bathroom.. I also like that I don’t have to stop at truck stops to get fuel. I have been camping for over 20 years and not interested in any other trailer. If you have a dealer close go check one out. Sure if I didn’t want a toy hauler I would prob have something else.. this one just checks all the boxes for me. My canam defender XMR max 6 passenger fits with 30” boggers on 15x7 wheels. It fits forward and backwards. Keep offset close.
Depends what your looking for.. my voltage 4250 fifth does not have a 16 ft garage.. does not fit under a lot of trees, and requires truck stops.. My defender Max 6 passenger XMR lifted with 30’s fits in the Stryker.. it also has shocks on the axles.. been camping 20 years really like this over the fifth.. easier to hookup and pull.. it’s all about what you want
Hey, Rocky what kind of mechanic are you? My son is interested in becoming a mechanic or something similar but I don't know anything about tradework so I have a hard time helping him decide what to do
I started in the oilfield when I was 16 worked on mud pumps, Diesel engines, and Rig electric and instrumentation. In my early 20’s I decided to get into compression and natural gas engines.. Big accesable engines that were clean instead of knuckle busting compartment engines. Worked mostly on cat engines on compressors 3606, 3608, 3516, 33 series engines. If he is interested in cleaner engine work and good pay check out compression.
I am using the Equlizer 4 hitch on our Ram 2500 and Flagstaff RV. It weighs 7600 unloaded with a hitch weight of 963. The camper is 35' .The Eq does ok, but the weight and grease is getting to me. Is the Anderson a real upgrade rom my Eq 4?
I had a 2019 Tundra 1794 and a Lance 2465. Total Rig 13970 lbs Trailer only 6468 Truck only 6600 Tongue Wt 902 The payload is 1185 lbs. As you can see a max trailer weight of 9100lbs means nothing, as a tongue weight of 902 from payload of 1185 leaves nothing for people and supplies in the truck. I tried towing, but it wasn’t very good. I switched to a 2022 F350 with a 3700 lbs payload and max trailer of 15000 lbs. So, everything well within capacity. However, I could not get the trailer to stop swaying. Anything more than 60 mph, bad sway. Going downhill even worse. I tried everything with the Andersen hitch, adjusted height, chain tensions, reload weight, etc. It just would not stop swaying at more than 60 mph or downhills greater than 50 mph. I switched to a trunion bar hitch (Weighsafe) and have zero sway. Im extremely disappointed in Andersen hitch and would ver recommend it in a trailer more than 2000-3000 lbs.
