One thing I forgot to mention: To connect to your arduino, download the 'arduino IDE' software from the Arduino website, and under tools>manage libraries>search 'Adafruit PWM' and click install! That should get you everything you need
D:\DESCARGAS\Eye Mech User Guide V1.1.0 (1)\Eye Mech User Guide V1.1.0\Arduino Code\1. WiringCheck\wiringCheck\wiringCheck.ino:18:10: fatal error: Adafruit_PWMServoDriver.h: No such file or directory #include ^~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ compilation terminated. exit status 1 Compilation error: Adafruit_PWMServoDriver.h: No such file or directory
Too bad, then its just another 3d file that i have to print. When it was a kit it was something to look into, but most people dont own a 3d printer that is capable of tight tolerances as this ex-kit has.
Yeah, its tough to find a printer. That's actually why I'm not offering them as a kit right now. I just moved across the country (again) and had to leave my old printer behind. Until I find a new one, it will stay digital only. Sorry for the inconvenience!
Hi, I am thinking about upscaling the eyeballs for a FNAF head. From my understanding of this video, I could probably use the same wire linkages if I reposition the servos right? I am thinking for the 2 eyelid servos I'll just position it to the most right limit of the eyeballs since the linkages are hooked to the side of the right side of the eyelids, but I might have to move up slightly upwards/downwards depending on where the holes are after upsizing the eyelids. I should be able to reposition the x-axis servo towards the left limit since it's hooked to the left side of the eye, but for the y-axis servo I should keep it centered since it's hooked in the center of the eyeball, right? Not sure if what I said made any sense, but hopefully you can visualize what I said and point out any misconceptions on my part before I try and print everything out. I'd probably just print the original out first and get it working before repurposing it for bigger eyes. Thanks anyway for your detailed tutorial!
I'm creating a charity in Chicago, can I purchase a set? Although I'd love to do it myself, I don't own the proper equipment. I'll be retrofitting the kit to be manual, used for a blinking baby orangutan puppet, but I need the docking stations, and the blinking eyelids.
"I think I have it more or less under control, but I want to make it portable and I need you to tell me how to power said project with batteries, one for the servo board and another for the Arduino board. Thank you!"
First, Hello I love that I came across this and would love for this to be my first kit. Secondly, your kit link is broken 404 error. Would you please reupload? My goal is to build a little robot friend down the road when my skills improve. I think this would be a perfect start.
I got everything running all the way through the lookXY and Lookblink functions using the buttons. However, when i use the expressioncycler, nothing happens. Do i need to do something to get the file to work once uploaded? the other files were dependent on button presses, but this should just run, right? The other issue i ran into is that the Arduino uplugged from the computer loses power. does this project require two power supplies? one for the PWM board and one for the Arduino?
Hey john i dont know if youll see this but when i plug the servos to the board they wont move at all and i doubled checked my wirings. any possible solutions for this?
hey john, i connected everything correctly, unfortunately my problem starts with the "eye button blinking"... the two servos move in the opposite direction. in other words, the eyes would always be closed until I press the button, then they open briefly...actually, it should theoretically work the other way around. can you help me what's wrong? Kind regards Jan
@@JanK001 Fyi I Reversed the order of the function openEye and closeEye and then it worked for me... Not sure why my servos where going opposite of his.. But if I just reversed the order of these two function then it worked. So normally it called closeEye and then openEye, I called openEye and then closeEye in the blink function and it worked.
Hi John! this project looks so interesting for all of us that are looking for a solution that doesn't take so much space side ways. How deep is it in cm? I checked out your etsy page, but the price to europe doesn't make it a viable option unfortunately. If you would consider putting the stl files out there I would be very interested without a doubt. Take care and keep it up!!
Thanks for looking! It’s a little less than 8cm in depth. I’m working on getting better shipping options for Europe, but it’s a slow process. I am considering releasing the stl files. Currently the project is also a charity fundraiser, so I will probably do that once the charity drive ends near the end of January(?)
@@JohnStrope Hi John! I'm sorry if I disturbed you. I checked the link in the description and downloaded the user guide but couldn't find the 3D files 😥 I'm wondering if they are still available. Could you tell me how to get them? Do we need to buy on Esty? Thanks again for your wonderful project and kind sharing!
Hey i bought acces to the 3d files and its awsome! The one thing im going to complain about is that the pivot that attaches the frame to the eye is really weak, other then that its good! Also you said buttons are optional how do i control the eyes from my computer
I agree, V2 should be coming soon with new improvements. You can control via button, joystick, software, or any sensory input. Really it's more to demonstrate that an action can be triggered by whatever you like!
Ive got everything connected I even downloaded the 'Adafruit PWM' as stated but getting this "Compilation error: 'pwm' was not declared in this scope" Error. Can anyone help me figure this out? Im so close but stuck here.
@@kentharris7427 Ah, that is a good question! I typically buy the eyes pre-made from a seller on Amazon. In the digital download folder under '3D Printing' is a readme.txt file that has links to the additional parts you'll need! If that doesn't work, let me know and I can add a .stl file you could 3D print and paint, but I've found that the Amazon eyes typically look more convincing than any painting I could do!
@@JohnStrope I'm making the eyes for a Pumpkin so they don't have to look real. I already downloaded the STLs from Etsy. I will Email you my Email address.
I get them from vendors on amazon. If you search "4 Pairs of 4 Colors 24mm Half Round Realistic Acrylic Eyes for Halloween Props, Masks, Dolls or Bears Craft Plastic Eyeballs (24mm)", they'd come right up!
What kind of power supply did you use to run the 8 servos? Had no issues running 4, but when I hooked up 8 it killed my power supply. And the power supply is rated at 5 amps 5vdc. The load should not have exceeded 8x250ma or 2 amps.
Hey Mark. Gosh, there's no way this thing should pull past 5amps. I normally power everything from a 5V 3A power supply, which is more than enough. Even when all motors are moving at once (which shouldn't really happen), I've hooked it up to a scope and see a max peak load of around 550mA. Maybe there's resistance on the motor causing the current to spike? But like you said, even then it should never exceed 2A total. That's really odd. Could be a supply issue? Any ideas?
@@JohnStrope That's what I thought. The power supply company is going to replace it for free, and I did local buy a 5v/3A power supply it it worked great. Stuck the set of eyes in a pumpkin. Make it look someone / thing was living inside. Thanks for the video.
Hey John, why is it when I run the Wiring Check, that the serial monitor stays blank and wont run the coded "Ready to Go/r" even after uploading to the Uno and downloading the proper library PWM?
@@JohnStrope Yes it is. Even with the most current Arduino IDE software installed. I was able to test a continuous loop sketch to verify the unit works but when i upload the code provided, nothing occurs
@@kadyfrancone2775 hmm, I’ve never encountered this before. Two ideas: 1. Do you have the serial monitor open before you open the sketch? Try keeping the window open and pressing the reset button on the arduino so it restart the sketch 2. Are you using any adapters to connect to the arduino? I’ve had problems before where the USBC adapter or specific port wouldn’t let the serial data throufh
@@JohnStrope I have tried it both ways and yes even reset the Arduino, I was able to send a different code just to check the feed connection, but it will not register the codes you provided. I have compared what yours reads after the code has been sent to the Arduino and it shows the same information, yet the Serial monitor remains blank. I plan on playing with it later today. As for the adapter, I am using the cable that came with my Arduino, straight into the port and its a sound fit to the unit.
@@kadyfrancone2775 Interesting. Please let me know if you come up with any solutions. I did some quick googling and found this thread: forum.arduino.cc/t/serial-monitor-does-not-open/545869/9
@@ThePsychoticCircusofSavannah Check the Etsy link in the description! I'm currently not doing pre-assembled as an option on the listing, but if you're interested shoot me a message and we can work something out!
Yes, you just need a slightly different wiring configuration and a 5V battery pack. I have a schematic for how to do it with a nano if you're interested!
I have files for up to 40mm, but the eyeballs I based the original design are themselves only 24mm. So for the larger designs, you'd need to print and paint your own 40mm eyeball
@@emojijpeg2556 lol no worries, its a little over 1.5". After that, it gets difficult to move everything around. This one was supposed to be small, hoping to design a larger one soon
@@JohnStrope cool! You should, in my opinion this is great, I'ma start 3d printing in like 3 4 days. And I'm trying to make a glamrock Freddy head. Thanks for talking to me dude
Yeah, its tough with the biggest factor in the kit price being the arduinos/power supplies/misc.. Hopefully just putting the STL and code files out there will help with people who might be able to save money by sourcing parts themselves!