The switch needs to be a magnetic stop start type. Once the saw stops the current to the switch is interrupted and so it can on be restarted by pressing the start button. Cost about $15 on eBay and worth the investment. Nice saw.
Some Guy In N Carolina see the link has some options www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-Types-Emergency-Stop-Button-Switch-Electrical-Pushubotton-Workshop-Machine/323798177237?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180816085401%26meid%3D0167428c6cda4185a19944df74854fce%26pid%3D100970%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D143310381139%26itm%3D323798177237%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100970.m5481&_trkparms=pageci%3Aa98a2dd1-fceb-11e9-a219-74dbd180d0fa%7Cparentrq%3A28cbb98f16e0ac3d5c83ce07fffac8c8%7Ciid%3A1
I have one. There is a bolt that hangs from a bracket plate over the toggle switch thathits the toggle when the cut is complete. There is also tensioner bolt that rides on the belt to tighten it.
Hm.. I think I matched the picture from the manual in terms of spring placement; that said, the down pressure is incredibly low even with the spring on top. Any idea how to add more down pressure while cutting?
side not it seems the motor is turning the wrong way the pitman arm gear should rotate counter clockwise this gives a downward pull on the blade the way its going it will give a lift . gonna make it cut a lot slower that way.
I might not totally follow, but to my recollection the blade tooth direction, arm pull direction, and pressure cam are all lined up properly. If they weren't, it would not cut almost at all. That may not be apparent in the video though. This machine does cut pretty slowly, but only a few minutes to cut through around 3 inches of steel. The best part is that I can just walk away after getting it started then come back once it's done. I also like that the metal doesn't get too hot, so the blades last a long time. You could be right though - maybe this could cut faster... it cuts at a speed roughly that of a human making the same motions from my observations. I actually can't apply too much more pressure because the old motor begins to stall.
its a bit tough for me to explain but if you watch the pitman arm as it run now i moves the end of it over the top of the gear as it is pulling through the cut its supposed to move it towards the bottom the gear . the lifting action of the arm as a whole is controlled buy a cam not the pitman arm but it will give a better angle of attack with it running counter clockwise. if you check out some other videos you can see them running the other way. still not sure if i explained it well . think of it this way if you had a hack saw in you hand on the cut you would be pushing the blade down in to the stock . of course this thing cuts on the pull but it should pull down in to the stock.
lol ok i am right but also wrong i was just reading the manual you have linked to and it says all saw masters are pussh cut . so the motor and the blade are both reversed in your case lol
I've got a saw like you have that rod is to pickup the saw blade on back stroke my saw cuts on the pushing stroke use the lock nuts to set your up stroke and when it drops off the stroke makes its drop pressure the higher you set the upstroke the more drop pressure hope this makes sense
Locomotion requires more conversion of kinetic energy and is less efficient, also this saw focuses all cutting on a smaller area of the blade, wearing down certain areas unevenly. It seems inspired by watching how a human would cut something with a hand saw, rather than rethinking the problem like modern saws without the limitations of biological movement (ie cannot turn like a wheel). It's a strange approach from an engineering perspective due to obvious problems.
Your "extension spring" is not a extension spring, ist should be an tesions spring to lift up the sawblade on its way back. It was made to give the sawblade a longer life and to increase the precision of the cut.
From the documentation it appears to be a compression spring used to apply pressure downward. That is also my interpretation of the wording in the document: www.rustyiron.com/literature/Sawmaster_Power_Hacksaw.pdf
Oh, you are right by the words of the documentation. Most other hacksaws with such am movement of this bolt lift the arm al litte bit up, but in this case it seems just to lower ther presser on the arm al little bit. By the way, you have a nice hacksaw. Here in Germany a saw like this still costs about 400€
i think i may have the same saw branded with miller kunth mine has most the top spring parts still in tact i also have the belt guard what i am missing is how the motor is mounted i've been trying to vine it in a video but no luck yet if you want some new castings made i can do that going to be replacing my guard . i do foundry patterns (kinda have to if you really want to restore old stuff lol ) this is my saw see what you think.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Lu9dYB8GBkc.html
Hey I checked out your video. That's a kind offer about some castings. I actually don't think I need anything - so far this saw has been working well and I've used it many times. I'm pretty sure my saw is a newer version of yours or maybe an alternative model of some kind. You have quite a lot of work to do on your machine! I bet there's some real history to it too, it was obviously heavily used. Let me know if you want me to do a video with some details about the motor mounting to help you out on your restoration.
Yeah, actually I wasn't even aware of that lever until you mentioned it. I just rotate the whole saw assembly past 90 degrees so it stays upright. There is probably a lever as you mentioned though. I'll try and record details of the motor mounting tonight if I can get around to it.
I just realized how ridiculously busy I am the next couple of weeks. How about I take some pictures instead of video - how should I get those pictures to you?
