The failings detailed in this video are 90% settings. That large print wasnt a support failure, thats a combination of exposure/lift speed/resin temperature. Increasing supports would not have helped as you have delamination accross the supports and model. The delamination towards the centre of the build plate that indicates that your FEP is not at the correct tension and or your lift hight is not high enough. Regarding enclosure heating, you want to heat your resin and vat up to above 25°C before you start printing, the exothermic reaction of curing should maintain the temperature around 1°C lower than the enclosure temperature so set that heating mat near to 30°C may give you an air temperature of 25°C (they are contact heaters with no active convection). My Mono X out of the box needed the build plate sanding flat and the pucks on the linear rail needing adusting to make the build plate parallel to the screen. All other issues I've had were due to user defined settings. Once you get these right (totally different to my Elegoo Mars OG) then it prints great. If you are still having issues drop me a DM I'd be happy to help out.
Thank you for your comment, really appreciate your effort and detail (sorry for my slow reply)! Yes I do agree with you that settings play a big part and I did acknowledge in this video that the failures could probably have been corrected with tweaks to the settings. This was demonstrated in the follow up video, the Goku figurine completed with some thicker supports. After a few more test prints I was able to reduce the supports back down thanks to slower lift speed. With the modifications presented & the few tweaks to the settings. I am now getting a very good level of reliability and print quality, no changes to FEP and printing with the mat set to 20C. I realise about the lack of convection, which is why I said to place the thermistor over the far side of the chamber. Else, yes, would give some pretty unreliable measurements of system temperature. I still stand by the (somewhat negative) review, I really do think for these larger printers with their higher price point there should be more onus on the manufacturer to deliver a more reliable experience straight out of the box. Almost everyone who has told me they love this machine has also admitted having to make physical adjustments to improve reliability. It's all well and good that Anycubic have whacked a monochrome screen on the printer, which is great for print speed, but I'd rather have a slower machine that has a much higher success rate across a range of settings. I'm sure you'll agree there is a lot of physical adjustments that could be made in the design of this machine to reduce failure rate of prints. Even aside from physical adjustments, the technical support & guidance provided with this printer is virtually non-existent. This is something that could so easily be rectified from the manufacturer, every test they do, document and explain, could save thousands of customers learning the same thing from trial and error / observation / forum research. It also needs a HEPA filter / some health & safety consideration. Just to clarify, had this machine been a sub £200 LCD printer, I would have been much more tolerant. That said, I did make what I would consider a good deal of effort to improve reliability before shooting this video. Again thank you for your comment, I hope you continue to watch and share your thoughts on future videos :)
I 100% agree, it like an airbrusher, which I am, blaming the brush(the air brush) because I mixed the paint wrong, strored it cold, and sprayed it in an hot envoriment. Blokes a clown
Totally agree. Printed like 200 things on my printer the past 2 months and only had like 2-3 small mistakes (figurines still were able to be used, only very small details)
I have had my printer since the 11th March. I'm delighted with it. I fit the build plate on properly. Its not a problem. Most of all i dont fiddle with it and its cool.
I've currently learned some things using my printer. If your layers continue to fail, and layer seperation is a problem, you need to either: A. Bring up the UV power in the settings menu of the printer B. Make the exposure time longer in the print settings (Faster is not always better!) C. Increase the size of your supports, especially for bigger, longer prints.
Your reviews are greatly refreshing! They are plain, fair and come across as being honest. And the fact that you have had a failed print, shows that not everything is perfect. And, you offer solutions!
Hi Callum.Thank you very much for this video. I'm experencing same problems, and I'm convinced that FEP, lifting speed and retract speed are parts of the keys for good results. One other key is that you can use PTFE lubicant on the FEP, it prevent adherence on the FEP. And for sure, placement and quality of supports is very important. For info, I print in a wood garden chalet with a electric heater !
Thank you for the comment, sorry to hear you're having similar problems! Just as an update, I reprinted the Goku figure from this video with higher support density and increased the pillar thickness to 1.5mm and contact point to 0.8mm and it has come out very well. I have been using a 3mm/s lift speed and retract speed, 8mm lift, a number of my friends with this printer has also been using similar lift settings. Lots of people are suggesting the PTFE lubricant, so I will definitely give this a go on my next print with the machine. Any reduction in the amount of adherence between the FEP and the model would be beneficial and hopefully would ensure smaller supports could be used again. I always like to try and minimise support usage, since the support pits ruin the otherwise perfect finish you can get from resin machines. Do keep me posted on your experiences with the machine! If you start getting more reliable prints, do share your changes, since it may help others in a similar situation :)
This looks a lot like a resin or temperature failure. As resins age, they also get more sensitive to temperature. Most resins seem to work best at around 21-24C (70-80F). The Anycubic resins have been really poor for me - I received a bottle that had already gone off. I would try a couple different brands. My room occasionally gets pretty cool (15C or so) and despite warming the room, the resin will stay cold much longer than the air. My fix is to pre-heat the resin a bit. Just pop the bottle in front of an electric heater for 10 minutes, give it a shake (you can feel the bottle transfering heat to the resin as you shake), 5 minutes, another shake, 5 minutes, another shake. The resin won't hold a lot of heat, so room temp is key. The other thing I'll mention is: shake your resin twice as long as you think you should! A lot of resins tend separate a bit while sitting. That causes printing inconsistencies. I have a Photon S, which seems to be inferior in every way to the Mono X, but the things I've described above should help. Good luck!
Thanks for the comment! Since I opened the resin specifically for the prints with this machine (a few days of use), I had not considered resin age. As you say it could have been bottled for quite some time before it was sent to me. Is your suggestion from research or personal experience and if so, what sort of timeframe are you noticing resin degradation over? I'm confident that the resin had heated up to around 20C for this print, it had become noticeably less viscous since the heater had been left on for some time even once it reached a reading of 20C. However, yes I do agree that heat does make a difference! The resin separation is a bit of a pain, shaking works well at the start, but it's very hard to counteract for long prints, where the resin sits idle for hours in the build tank. I used to have a Form 2, which had a build tank wiper specifically for this purpose and that was a good solution. I suppose the only control we have for the longer prints, is resin selection, I'm sure some would separate more slowly and therefore be better suited.
I really don't understand how he's having so many issues... I print on mine almost everyday and prints come out beautifully done. I do agree that their is a slight wobble on the plate, even on mine. All I do is tighten just a little bit more than normal. I will definitely print the mod to fix that. Also a lost of your prints look like they are failing due to slicing user error.
Thanks for the comment, a lot of the issue have come from the levelling of the bed to be honest, I don’t feel the design is optimal for these larger resin printers. The settings used have generally served well on other printers, so I do feel it’s a little more temperamental than it could be. But I do agree it is a fantastic machine when it works and I have had a number of great prints from the machine since this video was posted, glad to hear you have had the same! I’m designing another little add on for the printer at the moment as well, mentioned in my most recent video.
Just noticed your second comment r.e. UV power, good shout, I have the UV set to 80% at the moment. 80% is what Anycubic recommend as the best balance between print speed and life of the screen itself. The screen is meant to last for 4000 hours of printing at 80%.
I'm not entirely pleased with the detail on my prints. They look kind of smudgy. It's probably user error. But I'm just wondering if you've had any issues with smaller miniatures with high detail.
Never had any issue because of the little play in the build plate holding mechanism. It doesn't have play on the z axis only sideways so I guess maybe your settings aren't right. I print mostly big large and heavy objects and the almost never fail. Try increasing your first layers to around 6 and cure time to 30 sec. to make sure everything sticks well to the build plate. Best upgrade for the Mono X beside a screen protector is the wham bam flex plate. Highly recommended.
Agree, the build plate flex is unlikely to cause much of a problem, more just an annoyance. Printing really well now (I did an update video). I do like the idea of easily removable prints, so may give the wham bam flex plate a go! However, I was a bit sceptical of how well this would hold up during printing, have you noticed any layer movement due to it?
@@CallumColes no i never had issues and i do very large & Heavy prints up to 500 g and even more. Its such a Relief to print flat on the surface depending on the geometry without support. Once you have a flexplate you never go back. Worth investing in the Original whambam as the magnets seem to be much stronger.
If I had watched this video three days ago, I wouldnt have bought my Mono X. I'm glad I had not yet seen it. I received mine yesterday, unboxed it, leveled plate, and ran a test. Everything went off without a hitch even in a room at 50F because i didnt want it in my heated office. No adhesion issues, no failed supports at all. Ran a second print run with several miniatures filling the build plate and they all went perfectly also. I know for certain the large unheated room it was in was drafty and downright chilly. Using the transparent green plant based resin from Anycubic. Day 1 im super happy with my mono x so far.
Hi Adam, thank you for sharing your experience! Feel free to add your print settings for that resin in case anyone else sees your comment. Great to hear that you've had no problems out of the box, that's always the goal for any printer. The potential of the machine is huge, so it's a shame it's needed a bit of fettling to start getting good prints out of for me. However, I felt I had to share my experience honestly. It's always better to underpromise and over deliver as they say! It's great that so many users are reaching out to share their own experience, it gives any potential viewer more information to go off:)
@@CallumColes Oh, no worries, I wasn't suggesting anything negative about your review. I researched endlessly before diving into 3d printing(literally yesterday) and had a whole lot of concerns it was all going to be awful and I'd have to troubleshoot like many others until i figured it out. I was tiptoeing around the thing half the night trying not to do anything that might cause an issue. Ive got a different Resin I'm going to try, hopefully it works as well, we will see.
Same. I bought this printer, then saw this video and was filled with buyers remorse. I would have loved to buy the cheaper elegoo saturn but this was the only printer this size available for purchase. Thanks for sharing your positive experience. I'm about to press start on my first ever print and crossing my fingers.
@@Nickporter17 I've done 10 full prints from. 3 to 6 hours long without a hiccup. Posted some images of the prints and level of detail possible on a subreddit for loot-studios but I keep getting errors on posting a link. So far no remorse.
Yes I agree completely, it can be made to work, just in my opinion needs more hand holding than similar printers. Now the price has come down so much, I'd take a different view, it's a much more attractive purchase
@@CallumColes yeah I have 2 resin printers, mars 3 and an anycubic photon s and I will say the mars 3 was much easier to get calibrated and i do have less trouble with it. Could be just an anycubic thing.
I have the Mono X. First couple prints came out fine then I was getting nothing but failures. I noticed a small leak occurred on the LCD screen. I ordered some nFEP and coated it with PTFE. I also purchased the Peopoly Moai heater since I have the printer in my garage which runs about 55 F. So far I am getting great prints. I did check the vat for burrs but found none.
Hi Mike, thanks for sharing! Good to hear you've got yours running well now. It's very interesting to get a picture of the tweaks different users make to get the best results. PTFE coating seems like a common approach, so keen to try that one!
That is indeed how the instructions say to do it, trouble is, it’s difficult to exert an even amount of pressure across the entirety of the build plate especially while also trying to tighten bolts with you’re other hand. So I’ve found the method proposed works a lot better. Give it a try and see what you think😊
@@CallumColes I'll try out your method if/when I have to relevel. Right now. I'm really pleased with print quality. It took me a while to dial in my settings. But now that I have the print quality is high. Details look beautiful and they haven't been failing. Will need to do some more prints to really know how reliable it is though.
For the resin sticking to the film, it was suggested to me to clean the vat/film completely, then wipe down film with 3'n1 PTFE lube and let dry. This would stop the resin from sticking.
Apologies for the slow reply! Initially I used the card, but have since levelled into the build plate using the method shown in this video & (thanks also to the backplate printed), no longer make adjustments to the level of this printer between prints.
I watched this video a few days ago and now went back and watched your first video unboxing and leveling the platform. I don't agree that the clearance you complain about and tried to fix with the printed mod would do anything. The clearance between the bracket on the platform and the Z axis only makes the platform able to rotate a little around the securing knob. This doesn't affect at all the angle between the platform and the screen as long as you secure the knob tight. The only planes you have to worry about when leveling the platform are the plane defined by the screen and the plane defined by the upper face of the Z axis bracket where you install and secure the platform. As long as these two planes are parallel to each other you must be able to get a level platform since you're constraining the platform bracket plane to the upper plane of the Z axis bracket which should be parallel to the screen. Without your mod all you'll get is a leveled platform rotated a bit around the Z axis and that should not affect you XY level
Thanks for watching! In terms of your comment, you are making the assumption that both the screen and the build plate are perfectly level, which of course is not possible. As such, rotation could affect the z axis spacing. However, the mod is mostly just because I found the wobble annoying!
@@CallumColes Well I'm not assuming anything here. You have to level the platform by the method suggested by the manufacturer. Hence the are not level until you level them. And level means that you make the platform parallel to the screen. And again a you can rotate the platform plane 180 degrees around the Z axis and would still be parallel to the screen, assuming the whole Z axis assembly is perpendicular to the screen and the Z bracket on the assembly y parallel to the screen
@@elleryfg7853 again, what you’re saying only works if everything is perfectly level and perpendicular, which naturally will not be the case. Imagine an extreme example, two parallel planes on a 45 degree angle from the horizontal. If you rotate the top plane 180 degrees from the centre point it will completely intersect the bottom plane. Good design will always constrain movement that does not need to be there.
@@CallumColes Two parallel planes will never intersect if you only rotate them around the axis perpendicular to them. Which is our case. Again if this axis is not perpendicular two both then they are not parallel and if you rotate one if them the will intersect. I agree with you in the design part, they should make is a sliding fit or at most loose fit but that doesn't prevent you from getting the platform leveled provided the printer is properly assembled. The way you put it in your video will make people think that if they don't add the back stop you added they won't be able to level the platform and that's not accurate.
@@elleryfg7853 the rotation is only in one plane, the bottom one (screen / bottom of resin tank) is fixed. So rotation happens only in the top plane (build plate). Certainly possible to get the printer level without the backplate of course, as you say you just need to ensure the top screw is tight. The main benefit of having some sort of backplate to push against is repeatability, since you don’t want to have to re-level the bed every time you take the platform off and on again.
Thanks! Yes will still be using the printer as am determined to get it working reliably. I've had a number of fully successful prints, but all smaller. I am going to retry the large print again later today with increased support material.
I've not personally tested the Phrozen Mighty 4k, however, it looks to be a very similar setup and spec. I imagine it would perform similarly, so would recommend choosing whichever you can get cheaper! The price of the Mono X has fallen substantially since I created this video, to the point where I probably would have recommended it, as the lower cost makes a bit of tinkering to get it working worthwhile.
@@CallumColes Just bought my mono X for $375. This is my second SLA printer (4th 3d printer) so I'm willing to tinker with it to get the best results. For the price, I just couldn't pass up a sub $400 9" SLA printer.
@@Tekgnome. yeah the price has come down so much since I did the review! Much more worthwhile now at less than half price, so would probably recommend it. Have fun🙌🏼
Thank you for your comment:) the mods shown in this video + lowering the retract speed helped a lot with reliability for me. Lots of people have also suggested lubricating / changing the FEP, so definitely worth trying if anyone else reads this who has been having problems.
Can you print individual parts? Like print the torso/head/arms solo so you can maximize the size and therefore print larger overall statues?? Im asking bc this will be my first 3d printer and want to know if i can maximize the size by individually printing the parts
You sure can! You'll just need to learn how to slice the model up. Meshmixer is a great tool for this. It also helps to add some alignment pins / keys to the model so you can assemble the separate parts back together. There are already a number of tutorials on RU-vid for this, I might do one myself one day too :)
I'm stuck with my next printer purchase between the Mono x or the Egloo Saturn.. I may just jump on a saturn at this point considering the bed issues of the Anycubic
I’ve not tested the Saturn, but have heard good things from those I know with this printer. I’m sure it will have it’s own set of problems! However, the price tag of both of these printers has come down a lot since I bought mine, to the point where it sort of pays for the tinkering required to start getting good prints… So if you’re set on a large resin printer I’m sure you’ll be happy with either. The Saturn is cheaper but has a smaller build volume, depending on the project you have in mind, the extra build volume of the mono x might pay for itself. Let me know what you get:)
@@CallumColes Ha I held out and pre-ordered the Photon Mono X 6K since for an extra $100 you get a good resolution boost and better aa, faster print speeds and a stronger led light matrix., I also see on redditthat the plate issues are mostly cleaned up on later models as well. So how has the reptile heating pad worked out over the long haul? I don't think they are very high quality I use to have a snake and went through tons of them and probably need to be swapped out eventually. I print in my attic and live in the northeastern USA (NYC) so probably very similar climate wise to much of the UK give or take a little. I am thinking about heating options, either the reptile or seedling heat pad, a small enclosure with a 40w tubular heater.. it's a quandary right now since it will show up probably end of January when it's cold
The reptile mat works really well actually, it’s a bit low power so struggles to get above 20C in the chamber when it’s a cold night. But I’ve found it works perfectly at that temperature anyway, so have just optimised for that temperature all year round. If you’re looking at 40W, that should be able to reach much higher temperatures.
impossible to make antialiasing work of this machine, I tested all the slicers, I put the last fimeware and it does not work, somebody has the same problem as me?
Hi Steve, the pad is working really well actually, I've done a number of large prints with it since (shown in an update video). I opted for the pad as it's cheap to run, only 16W, so assuming it ran constantly for a full 24 hours you're looking at around 5p in terms of electricity. The downside of the low power is, of course, the lack of max temperature, which is why I installed the grey foam insulation to assist here. Equally, you could opt for a higher power mat and not bother with the insulation. I run it at 22C as that is the max it can reach if the room temperature falls to around 10C on a cold night.
I don't think you can really blame the printer for most of your issues. After 2 years of printing with the original anycubic photon I thought that I knew anything there was to know about resin printing. When I upgraded to the mono x I discovered that there is a big difference between printing small object and the big prints the mono x is capable of. I don't blame the printer for it but my own inexperience. There are problems with this printer, like the skipping stepps on the Z motor when the plate is going down into the resin on the start of the print, or the yellow cover reacting to the fumes of the resin. The lack of a screen protector etc etc. But again most of the things you encounter are user error and not the printer.
Thanks for the comment, always good to get feedback. I do agree with you to some extent, particularly that settings are very important when it comes to resin printing. Like you, I have been printing with resin printers for many years, started with a Form 1+ back in 2015! Because of this I like to make reviews based off whether I think a new user would be able to expect a reasonable level of reliability out of the box and this is why my review was somewhat negative. I did mention in the review that the Goku failure was mostly due to insufficient support and if you watch my next Anycubic video you will see I reprinted it successfully, however, this does not mean that printer design was not also somewhat to blame for the failure. In my opinion, there are a number of tweaks that the manufacturer could make to this printer to significantly improve reliability and success rate. It just feels like they've taken the design from their smaller models and scaled it up, with very little improvement to counteract the difficulty of producing larger resin models. I realise, for its size, it is still pretty good value. However, it is still a significant amount of money for someone to part with. In the hands of an experienced user, who is happy to do some experimentation, I'm sure it would quickly pay for itself. But personally, I would rather see more features specifically for larger format printing and would be happy to pay slightly more for the associated increase in reliability. It looks like the Creality LD-006 could be a good answer, I look forward to testing this once it is available! Anyway, thank you again for your comment, I appreciate that you have taken the time to watch my video :)
Did you ever get this resolved. Since you are the ONLY one that has given a negative feedback on this, I am curious if this issue was related to your specific machine, or if you have seen others that have also had it.
Thanks for watching. At the risk of not being sent more machines, I do like to review critically, everything can be improved! I did do a follow-up video on this machine and have had some cracking prints off it since this video. However, I do feel it needs a little more care and attention than other resin machines on the market. If you check forums on this machine & even the comments down below, you will see many people have had to fettle with this machine at least a little to get it working. Basically, it is a machine with a huge amount of potential, but more could be done by the manufacturers to make it easier to use & more reliable. Hope that helps:)
On this machine specifically, I started with standard Anycubic resin then plant-based, I have since used water washable resin from Nova3D and Technology Outlet. I much prefer the water washable, very easy to clean!
If that’s the only thing you were printing, you don’t really need the large build volume so I’d recommend opting for a smaller machine. Personally I quite like the Creality LD-002H but I know a lot of people rave about Elegoo Mars 2 so that’s another good option. Hope that helps!
sorry, did you print the backboard stl with the printer itself? have you put supports to make the backboard stl, or directly to the base? How did you attach the stl piece to the mono x photon? What screw did you use I can't see it in the video, thanks.
Yes, I did indeed print the backboard with the printer itself, however someone commented on the Thingiverse page that it also worked with their FDM machine so that's another option if you have one of those! For resin printing this file would need support yes, I printed it on approx 45˚ angle from the bed with the arms of the backboard facing away from the build plate. The backboard is designed to be a fairly tight fit when pushed into place on the Mono X (behind where the build plate is screwed in). It is then designed so that when an M6 screw is inserted, it increases the pressure and stops it from coming out. Hope that makes sense:)
@@gemmaralero1638 the screw is used was 16mm in length, but you could get away with a shorter one if you don’t have that exact length. Longer one would also probably be fine, would just stick through the part
@@CallumColes Would you be so kind to make a minute video of how it fits perfectly, the board, I have printed it and can't fit it right, would you be so kind please? Thanks.
Just to check, you need to insert the piece before you tighten the screw? Otherwise will be too tight to fit in, it's quite a tight fit anyway even without the screw in. Try that first. If that still doesn't work, shoot me a message via the facebook messenger on 3DTomorrow.com and I'll send a short video when possible (printer is currently on).
your build plate isnt leveled right, put washers on the bolts you tighten the plate with. also heat your resin up before printing and last but not least....change that fep asap. this printer is really good and ive had no issues with it at all. really dont think you should be giving out this wrong info.
Thank you for the comment! The build plate was levelled fine for this print, hence the adhesion to the build plate was good. But the firmware & out of the box setup does not make it easy! As I mentioned, lots of forums have people complaining about this issue. If you yourself have added washers, it shows that you also did not find it worked well out of the box. I did heat up the resin to 20C before starting the print (it just took a couple of hours so skipped the filming), sorry that wasn't clear. Appreciate the feedback from that point, will improve that for future edits:) The FEP is also fine, clear and free from kinks. I can only speak for my own experience of course and I have presented everything as I have found it, I do like this machine and as I said would not discourage people from buying it. I will also continue to use it and post updates where applicable. I just think there is more that can be done to make it a polished article, a few more tweaks and Anycubic could have an incredible machine. I think most people would rather I was honest about my experience rather than just listing what is good about the printer, since the Specs speak for themselves.
@@CallumColes i know about the washer trick because ive been printing for about 7 years now, i like how you worded your reply lol its common knowledge that the stock fep isnt always the best. the problem here isnt the printer but more so the owners know how. you made some good points but your wrong about the printer. this isnt a printer for a 1st timer and most of the people having trouble with this printer are infact new to resin printing, hell the way you leveled your bed most would say is wrong....but hey to each their own i guess.
That makes sense, experience is certainly a game changer for these machines! Although, exactly for that reason, I don't think this video is a bad thing, since more experienced users such as yourself will see this as a machine they can work with, whereas first timers will probably be put off, which means less bad reviews for the printer. I agree with you, lots of the bad reviews I have seen have come from first time users. As I've said I do like this machine & this was not meant as a bad review, just middle of the road and my experience. I will continue to work with the machine and I'm sure will find a reliable workflow for it. My main disappointment was that since the machine is so close the being incredible straight out of the box and on par with something like the Form 2 (which I have previously owned). I don't understand why Anycubic did not go the extra mile to get those extra features included. At the current price point of these larger resin printers, some extra features added in, will not raise the RRP by the same percentage as it would for the smaller models (Photon Zero, S, etc.) so personally I think it would have been worth some further refinement to produce an even better product. On the FEP point, I'll concede I did not know that the stock FEP is not good (again something Anycubic could look at). This sort of suggestion is why I asked for comments in the video description, always happy to learn and improve :). Do you have any recommendations for new FEP? The levelling sequence I suggested counteracts the tightening lift, but if something as simple as a washer does the same trick then I agree this is a much simpler approach, I'll give it a go (and also something that Anycubic could easily include out of the box). Anyway, thank you for the time and comments, it all helps to give anyone watching/reading more information on the machine!
Good luck. I have printed 6" tall prints and 1" prints and so far(cross fingers) it will still keep working. But I have only started using mine about 1 week ago. I am using sirayaech resin. I have not tried any other brand of this resin on this resin printer. I have mine near my window, and 3d printed a vent that attaches on the vent to remove any fumes. One more thing. I spray my FEP with PTFE spray.
Thank you! Pleased to hear yours is going well, PTFE spray sounds interesting, can you hear the benefit of that? In other words is the separation noise quieter when the print is pulled from the FEP? I just reprinted the file from this video with increased support and it was successful! I do like the machine, mainly because it’s got a decent volume and is fast, so will definitely continue using.
@@CallumColes PTFE spray make the surface super slick. It help so the print does not stick to the ptfe, and also the ptfe does not stick to the LCD. Just put spary a little bit on lcd screen safe cloth. Kind of like you would use for glasses. I actually have no popping sounds at all.
Oh nice, if you're getting no popping sounds at all it must work really well, will give it a try! I had presumed you were spraying just the top layer of the FEP (in contact with the build plate & print) but sounds like your also spraying the bottom of the FEP (in contact with the screen). Must admit, I cannot see why it would be necessary to spray the screen side?
This didn't provide adequate spacing, unfortunately. There have been many reports of dodgy tolerances on the bed for these larger units. It can be worked around, but it could be better.
@@CallumColes Well it's not unheard of still I always got down 2-5 . 001 mm to make sure it's snug. thanks for the review. Also you try the Voxel or phrozen larger printer's? There pretty spot on
@@omniteksilbear4559 I haven’t been too focused on resin printers recently, although have heard good things of those makes. Been doing more on the FDM recently because there’s more overlap with my company, e.g. reviewing FDM printers means I have more printer specific experience and can provide more specific help with filament settings.
After my terrible experience with anycubic FDM machines, my overall impression is to just not buy anycubic machines to begin with, I am a 3d printing noob, but that doens't mean I don't know what I am doing, I used the machine exactly as intended and did not do anything very wrong to my knowledge, but just after 1 month of using it only around 2 times a week, with proper care and cleaning, one of it's stepper motors completely broke, and due to anycubic support being in china, it took ages just to get a new one, and even once I got it reparied, a second one broke a week or so later
That doesn’t sound like you had much fun there! It is always tricky with overseas support I do agree. I’ve actually got an Anycubic FDM machine on the way and will unbox that in the next week or so, hopefully I’ll have better luck. I would have loved to recommend this machine, but if a user isn’t able to get reliable printing out of the box it doesn’t stack up as a product for me. I don’t think it speaks for all of Anycubic’s machines though since I also have their Photon Zero and that’s a brilliant little thing, which is perfect for using up small amount of resin with its tiny tank! With a few small tweaks from the manufacturer this machine could be fantastic, hopefully I’ll get the chance to review an updated model at a later stage.
I've not had experience directly with the Saturn, but have heard good things from friends that have it. Either way, they've both got their limitations & their strengths but with effort you can get great prints from both. Let me know what you go for!
My issue with the review is the negative view when really it all boils to knowing what you have brought. A machine that for what it does needs a temp to be spot on. All reviews I have watched for every 3D printer state this. uncle jessy and Vog to name 2. And they state to watch the settings for the prints you want. Also health and safety. Any one printing with resin know you need a vented room mask gloves and eye wear.
Appreciate your comment, but I stand by the review. The printer doesn’t go far enough to prioritise reliability. The Form2 came out in 2015 and blows this out the water in that respect, yes different release price points, but 5 years later and costs come down. I’d have rather paid more and got a more reliable printer. I hate waste and don’t think printers should be released that require so much hand holding. I’ve printed with other resin printers that are far more reliable regardless of temperature. Credit where credits due, this printer has enabled the production of some fantastic items and could easily be used to pay for itself or earn money, but I still wouldn’t recommend it. There are better options. Take your point on the masks, perhaps I should have highlighted more (will do in any future resin review videos), but you can’t wear a mask while shooting. The room is actively ventilated. Anyway, thank you for your time watching the video even if you didn’t like it😉
I ran it with a heater as well. I've used a number of resin printers, I know what they're capable of. I would not recommend this one to the average user. It can be made to work yes, and I still regularly use the printer for the benefits its size poses.
I've not tried a model with and without it on to compare! Although this is also controlled by the slicer, so worth looking into that as well if it's not working for you.
@@CallumColes I use whambam flex plates on my mono x and I will never go back trying to "carve" the print off the build plate! Really recommend them! And just a hint, Sirayatech recommends printing with their Siraya Blu @ 25C and I have also bad heating in my shop so I run a heater @ 25-26C. I think that most resins benefit from a higher temp! Thanks for great video!
By that logic, there would be no point in improving any machine, just blame the operator. Could you make a model by bashing rocks together? Yes. Should you? No. There’s always a better way to do something and this machine has many areas where adjustments could be made to reduce print failures, which, was the main point of this video.
where is your mask bro, and why are you holding build plate with a naked hand, resin burns are increadible painful, and it leaves long term damage in your lungs
Thank you for your concern. I can’t film with a mask on unfortunately, sound quality would be terrible! I have an air filtration unit setup on full power when doing resin printing though, rated for 3 x the volume of that room.
Good for you, I have no doubt this printer could be used to get good results (and have shown this in a follow up video), but when compared to other printers on the market I do not think it goes far enough to warrant a recommendation. The Mono X is a good printer but not a great printer. Since you like quotes: 'A good tool improves the way you work. A great tool improves the way you think.' My experience with other printers in the same class as the Mono X, along with better prosumer machines (such as the Form range of printers) and industrial level machines means that I have higher expectations for what this machine should have been able to offer.
@@mcbrite And I had no problems whatsoever, straight out of the box. There are thousands of users that have had a trouble free experience with this printer - straight out of the box. No drama videos needed
