My daughter is finishing a vanity EXACTLY this way so I showed her this video. This all makes perfect sense. Especially using denatured alcohol. Thank you!
So glad I found this video! I have a piece of furniture I just finished WTHe top with an oil base stain and didn’t want to use an oil base finish! This video is great news! Thank you for sharing! Definitely subscribing!
Thank you I have never worked with wood. I know enough to know I know absolutely nothing except there are a lot of pitfalls and possibilities for large errors with seemingly small mistakes. Thank you
Great Idea, just had a similar problem with a dining table, had to redo the entire finish, even waited 3 days for the oil stain to dry before applying water based poly...no go. This idea should work well!
@@LollyQ. Yes it did! Almost crystalized the white looked, carefully sand what you can out so when you apply another coat it will be smooth and not bumpy , the white colour should go away with another coat of poly
What do you mean by the water finish was ruined by the oil stain? My minwax oil stain and the water polycrillic say it’s ok to apply water finish over oil stain…but I trust your opinion.
I've been told you can use Polycrillic over oil stains, as long as the stain is fully dried. AND you've stained over raw wood. If the stain isn't fully cured or you stain over finish (there's a term for that, which escapes me at the moment), the poly will bubble up and peel off. I never take the chance and wipe the stain with alcohol just in case. The peace of mind is worth the few minutes of effort.
I agree that oil based stains are much more forgiving. Clean up from oil based products is getting very difficult here in California, they keep banning all the good solvents.
The alcohol comes after the stain. It's best to let the stain dry overnight, the alcohol removes any remnants of the oil. Minutes after you wipe it down with the alcohol you can put down your first top coat.
Thank you for this! Just put a coat of water based lacquer on an oil based stain and it bubbled up. I sanded and waited overnight and then restained. Please, just to clarify, I'll wait 3 days for the stain to cure and then the coat of denatured alcohol and then the lacquer or maybe water based polyurethane? I'm thinking the poly may be more forgiving. Thanks so much again!
Once the stain cures you can wipe it down with the denatured alcohol to remove any residual oil. Then you should be able to coat it with most water based finishes. I use water based poly and have hade very good results. I hope you finish turns out great!
I installed an expensive handrail on a very expensive wrought iron rail. I am using a Minwax oil-based stain with water-based urethane. Hopefully, you saved me from problems! Do you have a recommendation about a clear gloss water-based urethane, Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane vs Varathan Ultimate Spar Urethane?
Hi there! Your video was very informative! My husband is making a wood mantel for the fireplace and I'll be in charge of staining. Would you recommend the water-based poly for a wood mantel? You mentioned low VOC so I want to make sure we get the best option.
Water based poly is fine, and was what I used on this mantle. An oil based poly would work too, I just don't like working with them. They're messy (clean up), slow to dry and don't smell that good when you're working with them.
I've used both (mineral spirits by accident), and they both seemed to work. I think the denatured alcohol draws out the oil more efficiently due to its high evaporation rate. But I'm no chemical expert...
Hi there, I’m from NZ and have a deck which we liked three times before laying then we added a tint the the last coat after laying, it looks terrible! It’s faded even where we haven’t walked…. Any time on what we should do to fix this we are using macrocarpa wood and have it on our fences and planter boxes aswell…. Appreciate any advice! We thought about trying a water based stain because it has faded so much… do you think this would be helpful and is there any way we could do this without he shellac and only the alcohol?
Oooooooohhhhh! Out door stuff is tough. I'm thinking NZ gets a lot of sun (but I'm guessing) and that eats most finishes at an alarming rate. And that's made worse if there is a lot of rain included. I'm not familiar with macrocarpa (but you could send me some to play with...). My suggestion is to go to a reputable paint store and get some local knowledge on what finish would look good and last a while. Good Luck!
@@TheTrullGallery hey thanks for your reply! Yea we have a fairly harsh sun and yes rain too… we tend to advise foreigners to dress as though there could be “four seasons in one day” if that explains anything… not always but sometimes the weather can be fairly changeable. So yea makes sense it would be hard wearing on the wood. Macrocarpa is a native wood to NZ possibly why you wouldn’t be familiar with it. It has a very rustic look, we have since realised its not so good for a deck but looks great on our chunky fence… except we have yet to find the appropriate staining to keep it well… im sure the oil has looked after it internally but outwardly the deck particularly is looking pretty bad, I’ll take your advice and try and try to find a local place that can give me better advice than our big stores… we were sold the best product but it hasn’t lived up to its claim and honestly with all the wood we have we have spent ALOT! So it will pay for us to look further again hopefully something local will help, being someone not trying to simply sell us a product. Thank again much appreciated!
Good morning we’ll I have a situation here in suburbs of New York I own a 1950 home with Oak flooring i believe they measured 2.1/4 wide. In 2010 I sanded with 000 steel wool on a large heavy duty Clarke sidebyside cleaned it all up and applied oil base Minwax Polyurethane. Now in 2023 almost 2024 I will take the machine with 220.150,& 120 grit sandpaper and then clean up and apply stain. Do you think it’s doable ? Thank you. I really don’t want to do what you showed to dangerous
Staining over a water-based finish is tough, but it can be done. You might need to seal the stain with shellac or something similar. I learned that the hard way.
@@TheTrullGallery thank you. My question is can i apply pre stain and stain with a screen and recoat process and not going all the way down with a drum sander
@johnhouli3450 going to bare wood is always best, but a pain in the butt! You just have to make sure the finish bonds to the stain (over the old finish). It's no fun peeling finish of furniture - it would be worse on a floor
Sir I don’t want to stain over a waterbase finish, What I want to do is stain on my hardwood floor with just sanding with a screen or 120,250 sandpaper on a buffing big machine then clean it all up and then Prestain the wood and within 2 hours Stain the wood. Then I wait 24 hours for a cure and apply the finish which is a waterbase Procoat 2 part. Thank you.
Thanks for the tip! And just to say... I appreciate us boomers using presidential administrations as a measure of time! Makes it sound not-quite-so-long-ago.
