RU-vid recommended this to me and I was like "I already know how to lubricate an AR...meh, nothing else to do I'll watch it..". Turns out yeah, I actually didn't know how to lube an AR..
EL Dragon --that’s dumb /so a robber breaks in ur house and pulls a gun on u and your family. What do you do? (Answer) drain down oil grab a rag dry off ur gun and save the family $&@?’!=wrong answer: My Ar 15 pistol sits in my bedroom with a 100 round drum in it but it won’t be my first option the baby G2 45mag w ultra bright light and laser mounted under my pillow will be my fitst
offbeatbop Not always, it depends. If he had an "on-list" lower he couldn't bring the lower into the state, so he'd have to get a new "off-list" lower and transfer all the parts, or just sell the rifle.
Thanks for this...new to AR15 and you kept it easy to understand while still explaining your rationale for what you're doing. I also appreciate all of your thorough/polite responses in the comment sections despite some of the posters being kind of rude.
Just got my first AR, and I’ve been going through dozens of videos on how to properly oil and maintain the rifle. This is without a doubt, the best video I’ve seen. No blurry, poorly lit shots, no glossing over important key points. You simply explained your reasoning and methodology, followed it with good examples, and then provided proofs for each one. This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks very much for this.
and still holding strong 2 years later. Im just trying to find a video for people to watch cause Im sick of telling them how to do it. and he didnt have you oil the "Exhaust Holes" This video wins. FINALLY!!!!
A key point to remember,like ammo selection each gun is gonna prefer certain things. Some ars will run greatdry some prefer to be douched. To each gun their own. But I gan agree with this video.
One thing I learned from my range time in the army: I was experiencing jamming issues. My armorer (a Special Forces Weapons expert) looked at my bolt. He told me to make sure the splits in the gas rings were not aligned. Make sure each one is offset. No more jamming. So even today, on my AR. I make sure to check that when cleaning.
Former Army here 88-98. A bad magazine will cause double feed or a bolt over ride , a sticking or worn extractor will also cause issues. Improper cleaning of the gas block passage will cause failure to feed after firing a round. The gas rings can cause some loss of function but usually not enough to cause a jam. One thing when you first get your rifle count the number sealing rings that are on the bolt some have 2 some have 3. You should be able to place the BCG vertical on the locking lugs on the bolt and it will not retract , if it does the rings are worn out and time to replace them.
its the same for piston rings on an engine- they have to be clocked and then the space gapped a certain way. I suppose for the bolt it is the same exact way- even though they do rotate.
@@hoppahaole3155 Gorilla glue will withstand the heat. Super glue will burn off and eventually the slots in the rings will align themselves. The unknown is: will it happen after 10 or 1,000 rounds?
Most of the carbon fouling people complain about is actually the result of over lubrication. The carbon combines with the excessive lube to form a gritty sludge that can harden and coat internal parts under the heat of firing. This can be exacerbated by shooting ammo that had powder that burns dirty (almost all of the Russian stuff) and not giving things a quick wipe down after a range session. These days I use Strike Hold which is a dry film lubricant so I just spray down the carrier, bolt, fire control, interior of the upper, charging handle etc. and it dries out leaving a lubricant film. I do add a light coat of Mil-Comm TW25B grease to the rail areas like in his video but that's likely overkill. I the past I used to give everything a good overall exterior coat of oil and let it soak, then wipe everything dry and lube as he did in the video. If you understand the mechanics of the AR system what he lists as lubrication points is really all you need.
Hah, I lube my AR bolt almost exactly the same way. I never looked up how to do it, I just did like you mentioned where I took a good look at the design, and used my mechanical experience to decide where it needed it. I also use Mpro. I use grease on the cam pin instead, and I think mine looks less worn than yours. I also grease the part where the hammer rides. I run the buffer dry. I do the charge handle differently, but pretty much as minimal. I use grease on the trigger engagement surfaces, hammer. I do not lube the springs. I also have a Giessele. I grease the takedown/pivot pins and trigger pins like maybe once every 1000 rounds or so when I do a thorough strip and clean.
If you used a gun grease on that bolt cam, it probably wouldn't wear half as much. High temp grease stays put under high temperature environments.I always use grease and I have shot many thousands of rounds through mine and my bolt cam doesn't look half as worn as this one does. Just my two cents 😁. Gun oil burns off too quickly in my experiences
You’ll have a lot to clean off by then. That gun powered will be coated on the lube.
4 года назад
@@Mic01851 - True, but it aids in break-in. Cleaning is part of ownership and responsibility. The OPs's comment is technically correct ... over-lube a little when new, then you'll not have to use so much lube after break-in and your rifle will then be easier to clean.
@ Just bought my first AR rifle since getting out in 02. I had to my bolt more than normal at the range to after that no more issues. Just breaking in. Those rifles Uncle Sam gave me were well worn.
I oil it in just about the same way. I hate when oil gets all over the gun, doesn't look good, reminds me of a blown head gasket or a greasy teens face
The lower receiver will take some punishment from the hammer for a good number of hits, but at some point you might have problems. I've seen two M4s get coded out (deadlined/broken) from dudes relentlessly dropping the hammer like this. If you got a good, quality forged lower you should be OK, but the problem is that so many people have so many types and kinds of lowers out there with various quality, I just would try to not let this happen no matter how well-made it is.
Save your money and use full synthetic motor oil. I'm sure Mpro7 and EWL Slip 2000 are good stuff but expensive compared to a $5.00 quart of Mobil Super Full Synthetic 10W-30 that'll last forever almost. Mixing motor oil with Hi Temp Wheel Bearing Grease works great in some applications too. Seems to stay in place and last longer than any of the "gun lubes."
Why are you so scared to get lubricant on you’re rifle? Dust? Dirt? Wipe it off. I would like to see you wipe the metal back on. If you’re barrel isn’t worn out but you’re bolt, cam pin is then you new to use more lubricant.
Uhm,except he lubes shit that has been known to cause malfunctions when lubes. Do not lube the buffer system. Do not lube the fire control group. Lithium grease on the sear faces is fine. But lubing the spring is absolutely stupid. These guns run when all the burnt powder isnt sticking to the functioning parts because you lubed everything. This is one of the problems they ran into in Vietnam. Soliders doing exactly what he did which got people killed. The 4 contacts on the bcg gets 1 drop of oil each. 1 drop of oil on the gas rings. 1 drop of oil on the firing pin and spread over it. That is it.period. anything more than that is asking for problems at some point. If you oil the fire control group.plan on removing it after every so many rounds to clean it. Springs do not need lube. Grease on the sear faces will make it smoother but it isnt even Nessasary and I would not recommend doing it in sandy environments. Lubing the buffer system is absolutely stupid. If you do this,you better plan on tearing it apart and cleaning it everytime you clean the rifle every so many rounds. These rifles were designed to run with minimal maintenance. I've seen rifles personally that have 10,000 rounds thru them and have never been cleaned. Why? Becaue they only lubed what needs to be and what Stoner recommended. As long as the contact rails are "wet" and the gas rings can move inside the bcg,it will run.
Thank you so much for the video, and the explanation of how mechanical parts do move. I'll tell you I've been using way too much oil... You completely change my oil attitude. I'd like to see a demonstration of how you clean your rifle. You probably already made one so I'll try and find it. Thank you from South Florida.
Johnny roastbeef You got it, and thank you! I got you covered here, it's feature length but I didn't want to miss anything and leave people behind: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JnXRYfOEiXA.html
Just don't over do it with grease I've seen ppl slap all kinds on the recoil spring then get into cold weather and wonder why it won't cycle lol I just use a lil touch where trigger and hammer contact other than that strictly oil, every1 has their own way I guess
I agree with your approach with AR15 lubrication. I just watched InRange's video about them doing the convoy dust test, pretty incredible to see a bone dry AR working very well. I came from the school of thought of where the AR had to be soaking wet in order to run and it was a sin to have a minimal lubed rifle. Great video ! :)
Question: I lube my ar. But I noticed after about 650 rds my bolt has quite a bit of carbon buildup. Impossible to clean kinda build up. What am I doing wrong? It seems like I need a wire wheel on a drill to clean it.
Battle Cam Carbon builds up, especially on the bolt tail and inside the bolt carrier. I got a video on how to clean the AR15 you might like. Functionally, that carbon build-up is nothing to really worry about, it's the gummy carbon sludge in the upper receiver that'll eventually cause issues if not cleaned out.
Great explanation and easy to follow - the mark of a good teacher. New to ARs (basically) so looking for helpful and logical information, which you have shared. Cheers!
FiveDotFiveSix No, my goal is to keep the star chamber as clean as possible, without putting lube there, you'll end up with a dry film of carbon when you're done shooting, very little to clean up. I want to reduce the possibility of attracting sand and dirt that'll want to stay in there, if it's all wet I'll be worse off. If you're only going to the range, there won't be consequences, but if you're getting dirty in an austere and extended environment, I would refrain from setting up the conditions that'll help gum it up. I don't want to stack tolerances between the lugs, bolt face, and barrel extension with sand and grime, a properly-made bolt is at least 158 Carpenter steel, it'll be just fine without it.
I soak my bolt carrier and fill the piston area with oil until it spits back. The reason? So it cleans better and I've had zero issues. I have a great understanding of this and when it comes to the bolt? The more lube, the better. I never have cam pins wear out and have never needed to scrape carbon off of a bolt. Always wipes clean. AND... I don't need to clean it very often. My ARs are not gun safe trophies... they operate.
+BikerBry I don't think you'd always be able to get away with that if the worst happened. See the AR15 reliability test video -less oil helped there, but then again those were VERY dirty and unrealistic conditions.
thats a good way to get oil into the chamber ! which increase pressures on firing ! you wont notice it, as the semi auto gas system has so much force that it will still cycle the bolt back (the case would expend alot more because of the higher pressures of the oil getting into the chamber
I tend to over lubricate my AR too, if I were sent to a dusty environment then I'll be a minimalist, but my AR is not collecting dust in the battlefield, it is collecting humidity in the gun safe.
Brent Mack Yeah, I shoot 1-2 times a week, I'm always in my ARs doing maintenance, but I should have talked about long term gaps between range days. In any case, that phosphate coating (gray scratchy surface) should always have a thin film of oil applied to stay permeated in the surface to ward off rust.
I lube mine, about the same as you do. Always runs great! Zero malfunctions. I may add a drop to my trigger sear engagement area. You're right. You must understand what's going on in your firearms. Some people just aren't mechanically inclined...
BCM filthy14 looks like it has sludge inside of lt.Yet it keeps on functioning past 45,000 rounds.Lube lots of lube keep it going and it's very rarely cleaned.It also sees lots of carbine classes.Their motto is a Ar will run dirty and wet but not dirty and dry.
You are doing it all wrong! You have to clean the bypass line. You'll need a pair of pliers and some 30w ball bearings. Prep that line with some 3-1 oil and some gauze pads. Get 10 quarts of antifreeze preferably Prestone. No, no make that Quaker State. Thanks for the video. I use a little more than you. I take whatever is left on my hands and rub down the bolt and maybe a drop or so on some of the lower. No need to swim your parts in oil. I wonder how many people will get the first part of my comment? Cheers!
@Rara Neagra If after all that time you're still "experimenting" it sounds like you don't trust your own knowledge. Is it possible that you actually have a few months of learning, and years of repeating bad habits? Also what exactly do mean by "never put any lube on any internal parts of an ar"? Do you mean no oil ever?
@Rara Neagra I was asking because I'm trying to understand if you are speaking from actual knowledge or not. Why are you so sensitive? What you said seems to go against most of what I've heard. I guess I just fell for the troll bait
Thanks. I'm aware of the gas ring staggering situation but chose not to include that in the video. In the Colt M4 Armorer's Course, they said the rifle will function with just one gas ring. Once I heard that I tested it with success, and since then I've lost any desire to stagger the gas rings as it seems to make no difference, whether I stagger them or not. I've tried staggering the rings and purposely aligning them to create a gap, and I've discovered no difference whatsoever in performance. They said it was more about the overall seal between the bolt tail and the inside of the bolt carrier, and staggering gas rings didn't matter when you got three intentional holes machined into the carrier to vent excess gas. I first heard about this practice from a SRT team guy with the DOE, and had occasionally heard it in the gun shop from old school AR guys -maybe some of them were Vietnam vets when they were doing anything to try and make the original M16 more reliable. Either way, I find the practice of staggering gas rings to be of no concern to the modern AR15 owner and I would urge you to try it for yourself and see if you experience any problems in purposely aligning the rings. Great comment and thank you! -Mr. 2nd
Cool man I will do that. not sure if I'm old school or new did basic in 96 and just retired. Back to the topic I actually cant remember ANY time when I had a problem with my AR/M4 but to be honest My attention switched to my Abrams when I went Armor and got BMG as a individual weapon :) the armorers course sounds fun maybe Ill look into it Thanks
Jeff Lowe Thanks for your service, looks like 20 years, that's impressive and respected. I went through basic 2 years ago and there was no mention of staggering the rings. I also have a love for the .50 cal, I was a gunner on deployment and sometimes I had the .50 and it's just something else entirely. 11B, so we only deal with trucks at most, but usually we're walking -can't imagine being on a tank. Well done brother and thank you. -Mr. 2nd
People say you need to stagger the gas rings, probably because people say you need to stagger piston rings in an engine. The engine piston ring thing has been shown to be a myth so I'm confident that the gas ring thing is too.
Really informative video. Good job. I use Lucas synthetic high speed bearing grease instead of oil. Petroleum products evaporate over time. Synthetic lube lasts much longer. I clean my pistols every odd month and rifles twice a year if not used. I clean each firearm after every use.
I just wanna say thank you one more time. I use your method of lubing every time I lube my BCG and I love it! Very clean, neat & organized. I even lube my lower including the pins every now & then. I also clean the extractor every now and then as well, as for the ejector I've actually never lubed mine after putting hundreds of rounds through my rifle. And just recently for the first time, I've added 2 itty bitty eye dropplets of oil to the ejector and worked them in several times each (as in 1 drop, work it in several times & again for the second) dried it off and its gtg for a long while. Like I said I've never done it before (but after getting some help from gun fourms I was successfully able to do it) mainly because I was scared and its not something you wanna constantly mess with. But I also don't want it to rust/corrode either simply because I've never oiled it kinda thing. Good deal man well thanks again for your video! Also liked, subbed and hit that bell icon! :D
Has anyone ever used 'Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner' on guns? I cant seem to find any videos about it and google seems to be people arguing about brake cleaner.. MAF cleaner's ingredients are way closer to gun cleaning ingredients than brake cleaner and its about half the cost.. just asking for a friend...
i always just lightly lubed all interacting surfaces. and used the excess oil to coat any other parts of metal. it just helps prevent carbon buildup. but if you clean your gun after every use its not really needed.
Something a lot of people forget, or never knew, is that a good gun oil/grease will have boundary lubricant packages. They're small solids that sit between moving parts and act like tiny, microscopic ball bearings (kind of but not really). Even if the liquid or greasy carrier is forced out from between the parts being lubricated, the boundary lubricants remain. This is part of the reason why a light coat of good oil/grease is preferred over just dumping it all over everything.
you are actually somewhat wrong. Try cleaning a rifle thats been well lubricated vs your method. Carbon nearly wipes right off. Maintenance is key to anything. and you are giving bad advice
I think "bad advice" is advice that is unsafe or damaging to equipment. I offer my opinion, which is for anybody to review and decide. Lubricate the hell out of your AR, shoot 1,000 rounds, and see if the carbon just "wipes right off." You'll have caked carbon on the bolt tail, gunk all up in the star chamber, a filthy bolt carrier, and carbon all in the upper receiver and inside the charging handle. No matter how much lubrication you apply, a direct impingement gun is going to blast hot gases into your upper and BCG, blasting out or burning out the lubrication and coating the respective surfaces and parts in carbon. Lubrication should be viewed as, and used in, a manner that lubricates. It can perform other functions in a limited capacity, but its sole purpose and strength is lubricating moving components and minimizing friction, not making carbon wipe off. If you want the real deal, buy a nickel-boron BCG and you will in fact get a real "wipe-off" effect, but that's because of the surface treatment off the parts, not lubrication. Bad advice, or just not what you agree with? There is a difference, I would hope people know that difference before dropping huge accusations.
And I agree with you on that. A dry firing pin won't hurt anything, but I'd avoid doing any lubrication if the rifle is going in storage, or isn't going to be shot very often, I'd keep the pin dry. With the free floating firing pin design, you don't want gunky oil sitting for years on your firing pin in storage, it won't rust anyways, I only do it because I shoot 2-3 times a week, but if my gun is going in storage or not being shot this often, I'd keep the pin dry for sure. -Mr. 2nd
I forgot to mention, I got a video uploading right now on "Down and Dirty" AR15 field cleaning, I think you'd dig it, that's going to drop in about 10 minutes or less.
I think I should probably do a video on it, but the short answer is I'm not really a fan -unless you want to use it for black powder firearms and heavy machine guns, I think it would really excel there. We took over our sector in Afghan from some 101st dudes, they had a big box of Frog Lube packets they gave to us, they didn't use a lot of it and neither did we. We tried it, learned our lesson, and 9 months later we passed it off to the 3CR dudes who replaced us, and I would suspect they probably had a similar experience. At normal temperatures it just stays caked/gummed up, and after direct sunlight or firing it then gets more fluid. It would "sweat" the more you shot, which some people are looking for, but in that kind of environment the advantages of this constant "sweating" are negated by the dirt and sand. For a DI AR15, I can see the benefit from having something that keeps sweating more oil as it gets blasted out every shot, but the downside is it's getting blasted out all the time. A direct-impingement AR15 tends to dump and blast out anything it doesn't need, the oil spray and smoke tended to be a little bit excessive with the Frog Lube. Fast forward to Iraq, I can't remember seeing any Frog Lube out there, and thinking about the sand storms we had, I wouldn't want to attempt it. From what I understand, it was designed with amphibious operations in mind, such as a SEAL team infilling from a sub, swimming to shore, then coming out and onto the land, and in that specific scenario I think Frog Lube would probably excel. It'd stay gummy, even in the salt water, and you'd still have it and the sweating action going on once you got to land and had to use it. My thought is just because something is great at a very particular niche scenario, does not mean it automatically is the best thing ever for every application, situation, or weapon system. In normal situations, is Frog Lube going to work? Absolutely, but is it what I want to use? Probably not. I think for "flat range," civilian application in constant and guaranteed clean environments, you won't ever run into any problems with it and I don't think you'd be a complete fool for wanting to use it, but if you know you're operating in some really austere environments, I really wouldn't recommend it. That's not to say you can't find success using Frog Lube in austere environments, but honestly for that kind of application/use I would stick to conventional more-fluid oils for the AR15 and other small arms. Very minimal lubrication all the time, and if you actually get into a fight, I always had a small bottle of CLP I kept on hand in case I needed to grossly lubricate and go. I do think it would be a great idea for black powder firearms, such as a cap and ball revolver, where you have an interest in sealing off your cylinders with grease, and you could benefit from the sweating factor because you have a real need for trying to prevent rust. I also think it would work well on a M2 machine gun, or something like a M240, where the internals are generally protected from the environments but you got huge pieces of heavy steel flying back and forth with all that steel-on-steel contact going on inside. The M240 doesn't really seem to care if it has lubrication or not, it just works like a beast. The M2 is also great, but really the gummy/sweaty properties of Frog Lube would help reduce wear. Overall, I do most of my shooting on a "flat range" and I don't usually get my guns too dirty/muddy (most the time), but I still maintain and lubricate for austere environments as my standard way of doing things, so Frog Lube is not going to be my choice for something like an AR15, but others would disagree and that's OK. I'm about to release a "Down and Dirty AR15 Cleaning Video" pretty soon here, it features 3-In-One oil and I think you'd find it interesting when it drops. Thanks. -Mr. 2nd
CSxHAWAIIN I generally use Hoppes#9, it's a pretty good overall cleaner. When I get stateside I'll do a video on it, but really for an AR you don't have to get very detailed with the cleaning, and the gun will be just fine without going through and getting every spec of carbon out.
xSmokeyArtichokey There's a wide range of useful types, brands, and kinds of lubrication that work well in an AR. I use military-issue CLP, which is a little different from the BreakFree stuff -mainly because I got an unlimited supply of it. I think it's G96 and I'd have to dig up the NSN (national stock number), but BreakFree CLP or Winchester oil is a good alternative. I've been experimenting with Balastol and I've been liking it. I really need to do a video on lubrication types, kinds, brands, and applications for various things. For the AR family you can take care of everything with a type of oil like shown, with that kind of viscosity. Some dudes swear by automotive products and engine oils, I'm not recommending those.
I clean mine with remoil from Walmart. After my bolt is clean I spray the whole thing and put it together wet af. By the time I actually get to the range to use it again it's dry enough to not be a "dirt magnet" or spray oil all over the place.
Hi there, Can you tell me why most people use oil on the BCG and not gun grease? I personally use and thought grease would be better? Thank you! Jon - New Zealand
Jon Anda I do know of grease being used, and in ideal circumstances it isn't better or worse. I don't use it because I really can't with my usual environments, we got too much sand for me to feel comfortable using grease. In normal range conditions, it's not a problem, and some people do use it. When times are good and the shooting environment is clean, you can get away with using just about anything for an AR. The method in the video will keep you covered for normal conditions and in austere/dirty/sandy conditions. The AR is usually forgiving and it'll do well with grease, but I only use it where I absolutely need it, like on a M2 machine gun or my M1 Garand bolt/cam track. Just different techniques, maybe a lot of AR owners are prior military in our country, and we are used to using CLP (oil) so we just do that naturally? Not sure on that, I just do it as seen in the video and it's worked well for me. Not going to say grease would have let me down in Afghanistan or Iraq, they each had unique challenges, but I'll just say I wouldn't want to try it.
thank you, yes sand dust and grit is a consideration for sure (i.e the environment). I think if i was in a sandy dusty environment i too would think differently like you. Thank you for your great video.
Thanks for doing this video. I think this is the best AR-15 lube video. I agree with your light oil and all of the locations you lube. Well done video.
Pete Bredehoeft Thanks for the feedback! I've had success with this method back home, in Afghan, and Iraq. When I'm home I'll do an update video, I want to do a video showing regular lubrication (seen here), "every now and then" checks, and some long term storage in a gun safe for the dudes who've got collectable ARs that mainly sit around.
Alcatraz What ammo are you using? What mags are you using? If you got a Magpul PMag with some Federal XM193 ammo, we could rule out the magazine and the ammo right away. If you lube it as shown, use that mag/ammo combo, and still have problems then it might probably be the rifle. A brand new AR definitely needs oil, very few companies ship their ARs pre-lubed and ready to shoot out of the box. What kind of jams did you get? What was happening when it was having problems? I'd put some extra lube on the gas rings, for a new AR I always go a little extra on the gas rings at first. I think if you lubricate and use good ammo/mags, you'll find your problems go away. After about 300 rounds problem-free, you're set. I'd avoid any steel-cased .223/5.56 ammo, anything like Wolf and especially Tula Ammo, avoid. Most ARs will not do so well with steel cased ammo.
Mr2ndAmendment there is nothing wrong with steel case ammo. I have shoot thousands of rounds in my ar’s and only once did I have a failure to extract. Some rifles don’t like steel case ammo. But I always heard it was due to the timing of the rifle and not the ammo. Just like some rifles don’t like certain buffers. Normally the heavy ones,
Tell me what I haven't seen out there on Military Ranges ? I just help clear old boy using old ammo clear a squid . Lubricated it and punched the round out got , cleaned it and back on! ARs ? Little bit ! Your right ! ARs just need a little lube .Ive seen them at FT Brag gunk up and The Amory take a can and flush out all the residue and clean it good and back on . That's the night I had a squid ! pop and no Kick so I come off the line and sure enough , its squid !
Just got my first AR-15 a week ago. Thank you for this video it was very helpful with my first cleaning and taking apart my bolt carrier assembly. I would like to thank you for your service in the military and your knowledge on these guns helping us normal people do what we need to do to make it right.
waterraildog Thanks, glad you got something out of it. When I'm back in the states I got a bunch of AR videos planned, mostly designed around the new AR owner, and even some things the more experienced guys might learn. -Mr. 2nd
Way too much dust and dirt?? Have you not seen the MANS Larry Vickers video of the myth of over lubrication..... I say they don't have to be white gloved clean, but they need to be lubed. I run a gun shop and range we have an AR rental and I can attest that thing has been so dirty it shouldn't have run but spray some good quality go juice and bam she is running flawlessly.
The design of these rifles in history. M16 the more oil the better, m16a1 less oil, m16a2 very little oil or dry lube to be used. My AR I fired 100rounds thru it then observed all the moving parts check the build up areas of carbon those areas I used less lube due to it could effect the function of the rifle.
Thank you for verifying my theory of over lubrication of this rifle, great facts and explanation from you, now i can slap a few people in the face with this video lol
You should also lube the bottom of the bolt carrier group where it contacts and resets the hammer. That is a place of hard contact and should be lubed.
Very good video, to the point, clear and indeed helpful around the world. Very well presented in a way anyone into teaching could learn from. Thumbs up and thank you.
Brah, thanks for the guide and explanation. New to AR-15 ownership and if it wasn't for people like you out there I would be lost. Stay safe and thanks.
