Thanks for the information. I have a newish AR45 and it leaking already. There is always the daunting learning curve with new equipment so this is very helpful. I just hope I have ordered the correct o-rings since all I can do is guess where the leak is.
Sometimes it will stop leaking after you run it a few minutes. Even at best you will still get little leaks and seeps. It's not the best designed manifold nor material. I have probably spent $200 on mine in repairs and extra parts. But I now have around 400 houses on it without a major rebuild or check valve issue.
I've had AR 30 for over a year. Only had to replace the o ring in the unloader. No other problems. Also AR 30 has a rubber piece that will blow if the pump builds too much pressure. You can look at that rubber piece and see when the pump builds too much pressure. You can learn what makes it build too much pressure by simply observing that rubber piece. For example, if you don't squeeze the trigger and turn your engine down to idle, the pump will build too much pressure, some people may not know that. AR30 is 590 psi at 9.5 pgm
Try Tru blue with the leaks. It has worked for me. Also you can use 1¼ hose for that inlet line. You will just need a 1 x 1¼ Npt to barb for your manifold. Great input. Thanks for sharing.
Great information…just what I was looking for. Going to be 1st time running one this season. Question… your startup procedure, BYpass on or on the trigger? See people recommending both..manual says bypass. Follow your lead
Start up is not as important as shut down. At start up I have forgotten to put it on bypass and pull the trigger. No issues. But I have electric start too. But regardless of how I start it I will switch to bypass for about five seconds then adjust my pressure. Shut down is more important to do it right. If you shut it down without lowering your pressure or pulling the trigger your suction and pressure lines equalize. This puts high pressure back into your low side which can blow a line or cause a leak. So I have found on shutdown you need to pull your trigger. It still seems to build back pressure if you put it in bypass mode to shut it down. Have I forgot? Yes. It's not the end of the world but you'll see your suction lines expand and then you'll pull the trigger. Fyi. If you want to find leaks on the suction side of your pump on the pump side of your check valves adjust your pressure to 100 lbs. Then stop the engine without pulling the trigger or anything else. This will put 100lbs of back pressure into your suction side and you can find leaks. Pressure leaks are easier to find than vacuum leaks.
I doubt all your check valves went out at the same time. I would suspect the pressure regulator or major leak. Could something be froze due to cold weather?
What I can't understand is when you purchase parts for the AR they don't come with o rings like the ones for the outlet for your hose for your reel to attach to they sell the plastic part but no o rings
Just got mine delivered AR has made adjustments to the new model they got rid of the gauge its blocked off and the drain plug on the discharge side is also gone only thing i dont like is not having gauge how do you kno what psi to set at? Main reason this pump leaks also comet it running psi to high rather have gauge and replace that then cause more damage anyway thought i would share this with u question what do u recommend for grease when replacing o ring etc silicone grease? Would wite lithium grease work? Thank u
@@housewashing5693 ok thanks and yea I called AR and they said there was to many issues so they got rid but I'm ordering a gauge kit cuz I rather replace gauges then pump
It sounds like your main diaphragms are bad. You will need to replace them. Do it asap because any water in your oil will destroy everything else inside your pump. There is a very tiny chance your shaft seal is bad where your gearbox mounts to the pump? Check to see if your gearbox oil is milky and/or low?
