I have an old custom made 46# barebow and was having a heck of a time stringing it and I am a pretty strong dude. What did it for me was the two feet tip. My stringer has a tip pocket on one and and a saddle made from leather on the other and when I was trying with one foot in the middle, all it did was make the saddle slide toward the riser and kill all the leverage a stringer is supposed to provide. By using two feet it helped keep the leather saddle limb from sliding down and so the pressure was more toward the tip of the limb. Worked like a charm. Thanks man !!
Very useful and complete video. Thank you. First I used push/pull method but after a unsuccessful attempt I realized It was very dangerous. After that I bought myslef a bowstringer. It is a very easy and harmless method.
For me I think Mongolian style horse bows are more difficult to use a bow stringer unless your a over 5 ft 8 inches. A 100lb bow is difficult and yet the english would string and use a 200 lb longbow and no cheating of any kind no wonder the french were scared of them.
I appreciate your help with this. Just got my first recurve bow and while I’m not familiar with stringing, I am confident in my ability to match others movements and gently apply pressure to the bow. Thanks to your guidance, i string it on the first try. I will be picking up a stringer soon, as I agree. The unnecessary risk is not worth it. I might screw up one day when I’m less confident. Happy shooting.
Remember to ALWAYS make sure the string is secured in both nocks before releasing the tension at them and after stringing. It's good practice to hold slight tension on the string while putting the pocket end on top of it to make sure it stays.
That is super helpful! Also it's reminding me of the memory when I with a help of my father and my brother have been trying to put a string on a tiny crossbow. And I'm kind of sorry I didn't record it on a camera because it would get millions of wiews in comedy category. And also I'm happy about the fact that we had only two arrows and that we dumped them both in a thick piece of wood from which we could not retrieve them (saved many lives). :D
I'm so happy I found this video. I was having a hard time on how to put on the string and was worried if I was doing it wrong way. So helpful. Thank you, Sensei.
Got my first 50lb recurve today, and figured I should probably learn how to use stringers instead of continuing doing step through--which honestly I think is just fine for my 40lb bow. Anyway, instructions here were super clear and I strung my new bow without any issues whatsoever.
I actually stumbled onto this video for the first time today even after using NuSensai as a very reliable archery resource. It's good timing because my new (and first) bow (SF Axiom+) arrived the other day, and it's only the second time I've strung it. This time so I could have a test shoot at home. I actually had the thing happen where the string spins around and ends up putting tension on the limbs backwards. It scared the crap out of me as the limb was starting to bend back, and I thought I was going to either twist the limb or break it. Thankfully I was able to get some help and put enough slack on it to get the string off. I inspected it and couldn't see any signs of damage or twisting. It went on to fire some low-range test shots without any problems (except my arrows keep falling off the rest, but that's for a separate question). In fact, it fires the arrows quite well, they shoot beautifully straight out of the bow. So in short. I know this video is old, but for me it's very timely and has reassured me that my bow is okay! Thanks!
You do the best informative bow vida I've seen so far. I tryed the 3rd option in my new 50 pound samick sage and I just couldn't do it the next day I tryed the push pull, hurt my fingers like hell but after a wile and a few small cuts I finally got the string on, thank god
Great video! I've always used a bow stringer, as I feel it's best for the life of my bow/safety reasons, but find it very useful (and badass) to know how to get by without one. Thanks for the great info, as always!
your a life saver definitely got a subscribe from me. I was so afraid of breaking the limbs when using the bow stringer but learned how to properly use it from this video thank you so much.
I will lead with where I agree with you: the bowstringer is the best and safest method for stringing a bow. Now to disagree with your order; your ranking, from safest to least safe is 1-bowstringer, 2-push pull, 3-step through. Mine is 1-bowstringer, 2-step through, 3. push pull. The reason I say that is because with the step-through method, if your hand slips off the limb, it should move away from you and fall; not the best for the bow, but okay for the archer. With the push-pull method, the bow is headed toward you, where it can more easily hit your face, etcetera. As a level three-NTS coach I always recommend a three month minimum introduction period before buying equipment, then starting with an ILF recurve (I am biased, plus, it may just be me, but I think newer compounds have less draw-weight adjustment than older ones-you sell more bows that way) with other shooting essentials (arrows, arrow rest, bowstring, bowstringer, etcetera).
Nice informative video, although you want to place the your riser on the back leg to make sure that the limbs bend equally. If you put the lower limb on your leg then you might put to much stress on the lower limb, thus risking to bend the lower limb more then the upper. If you place the riser on your leg then you will be putting stress on the riser and limb tips, thus putting force on the spots where the bow would normally be push and pulled.. If you just put the riser on the back of the leg there is a lower chance of unequal bending. I string my bow like this (A Turkish reflex bow) and it has an even 'bend' even though i use this 'unreliable' method. No offensive meant, but thought i might put this out there seeing as some bows with extreme curvature can't be strung in other ways then the step-through method. Also keep up the good work!!!
Yeah, this can't be stressed enough. If people copy the step-through method shown here, they'll potentially damage their limbs. Otherwise, great video as always :)
You are helping me learn so much! I can't thank you enough..purchased my first #45 longbow today & worried I wouldn't be able to do this part alone (as I'm very petite). Unstrung my bow effortlessly after watching your video. 😁
link for your stringer because I have a 100 lb horse bow and most people show how to string a 30 lb bow. I finely strung my bow with the step through method it was not easy but the only thing easy about a 100 lb bow is the weight of the bow itself. But I love the resistance with it, because it feels like doing weight training and that helps me focus. Thank you for your cool channel.
Good video, I use the push/ pull and step through myself. I mainly shoot wooden bows of my own manufacture, so I'm very carefull during the stringing process. I just wanted to stress the point about even pressure on the limbs while stringing. When using the step through method, pay attention that you use the handle as pivot point for the bend. The way you show it all of the bend is in the buttom limb.
+NUSensei I absolutely love your videos, man! They are better than watching a moving! You speak with so much clarity that everything you say makes sense and is very retainable! So retainable that I can actually explain it to others. Thank you very much for your knowledge! Asians make the best teachers in my opinion!
I use an alternate method I notice most people don't know. I place the front of the bow flat on the ground. Brace the handle with a good stomp and hold with my foot. Then I bite on the bowstring while lifting it with my back and voila. Bowstrung.
Hello from SWEDEN! First I want to thank you for very helpful videos. I bought this tool but I have difficulties getting the string on the limb. Mybee the string is too short? My bow is a Pro HOYT Medalist recurve, and it`s 70" long and 40 Pound draw. The string that came with the bow is 161 cm measured from the top on the both ends of the loop. Regards//Kenta
Great videos. May I ask something about bow strings? Unstrung, the bow string displays its various strands. To prepare the string, I know you have to twist it a number of times - but how many. How do you know you have done enough twists?
@@Sk1nSz i have a dyneema string that came with my new mandarin duck black hunter recurve, and it has many rubbery threads showing inside the string. Wax it?
@@lburrsshinyhunts2253 What I meant to clarify my comment is, that when you string looks like it has "hairs" of string standing out: apply some wax while the string is strung on the bow and massage the clumps across the string. I also never wax the serving. To your question: it depends. I haven't ever heard of rubber beeing used for proper bowstrings. Most are threads sometimes of synthetic nature but it's just more or less stretchy material, depending on the material used. After all you could use dacron to sew and repair your clothes too. Anyway, I wax my strings mainly strung after about 3 or 4 sessions of shooting. I often shoot about 100+ arrows in one so it can never loose it's wax. To the actual OP of the comment: I have gained more knowledge in the past and when I commented I pretty much just had started out. Get a gauge to measure the distance from the string to the bow itself. I don't know what it's called in english though. There are certain distances between your string and bow depending on your bow type what are recommended. Twist your string accordingly to get the gap larger, loosen it to get the gap smaller. Smaller gaps tend to give you more arrow speed at the disadvantage of your shooting error having more effect. Bigger gaps tend to be more forgiving at the cost of arrow speed.
Thanks for the video. I have always been concerned about pulling in the correct place when using a stringer. I noticed that you pull from above the grip area. That is the only way I have been able to make my stringer work. I think it has to do with short arms. This method seems to put unequal pressure on the limbs. Can this be a problem? Thanks for the help.
Informative as always. Question -- Why do say that this method puts equal pressure on both the limbs? (isnt the saddle end of it about 75-80% distance from the bow tip and hence puts less pressure on that limb as aginst the pocket end which is snug on the bow tip??) Just curious.
You should not check to make sure the string is seated correctly with the bow turned toward you. If it wasn’t strung correctly the limb could pop off and come at you. Turn it away to check it.
Is the serving separation at 2:10(you can use "," and "." for frame-by-frame skipping) problematic? I think that the pocket on my bow stringer was a bit tight and it separated the serving a bit.
Piece Of Advice: When using the "push and pull " method, pull from the limb pocket, not from the grip. It is definitely easier to do. Also when using this method, make sure the limbs are properly positioned into the pockets. Failure can result in the limb popping out while you are stringing and the limb could hit you. This method also works well for most (recurve) poundages (I use 40" limbs). For Your Safety : Be sure that both sides of the string loop are seated before removing pressure. (Failure consequences mentioned in video) Happy Shooting !!!
Hi i was wanting to know is it okay to leave a fiberglass recurve bow string even if you're not using. Also is it normal for the string to be set right. The string does not follow the grove on the limb, But the loop sits just right on the ends when i place it on the bow? i've tried retaking it back down and repositioning it still no change.
Just got my first bow and I found out about the step through method first. Is it better for the bow to have the the riser against the back of your leg so your leg doesn't apply pressure against the limb? Also, the stringer appears to do the same thing, with the saddle actually applying pressure towards the center of the limb as opposed to the tip, right? In any case, I'll invest in a proper stringer, thank you for this video.
yesterday, while i was stringing the bow using the stringer, i accidentally put too much force, my classmate told me, that the limb almost made a right angle (almost). Im scared that the limbs would break while i shoot. I'm afraid of shooting again. . I would really appreciate your thoughts on it. Thanks
I am using the push pull method and my string no matter what not staying in the groove. I re-string and re-string with the same result. If I pull the string when aiming the string almost ’flips’ to the side of the limb way out of the groove. WHat am I doing wrong?
On one of my bows (my shortest bow) the saddle stringer won’t attack to the limb closer to the riser when the string is slipped on. The string is too short and the stringer saddle is to narrow for the limb.
Watching tutorials is always good even for experts, new methods are coming out constantly and you might have not heard of a method that could be really useful for you.
Hi NuSensei, question about "bracer height", what is the average for it, does it matter? What differences if using recommended height, and high or lower.....
Let us be clear, as he doesn't mention this in this episode. I've seen people literally break cheekbones and it's entirely possible to break your jaw with heavier bows if you're not careful stringing with the step - through. ALWAYS keep your face clear of your limbs no matter how you string the bow, you don't wanna be in the ER explaining to a nurse how you fucked yourself up stringing your bow.
I managed to get my string off my 60 pound recurve with the step through method, ut damn it was a bit of a pain. At first I thought it was because the string had a lot of wax and was stuck in the string groove, but after I got it off, it looked like it was wedged in the grove, almost like it was a hot string and melted a plastic groove in it. It was a while since I unstrung it, but I assume it was carbon or something durable, so im not sure. Any ideas?
i have a bow stringer a buck trail one , but with the having one with two ends instead of the saddle how i am suppose to put the rope in the groove with the end covering it...
i did this for the first time today and i was shaking like a Chihuahua god damn terrifying lol. still cant unstring it though for some reason there is a mental block which doesn't allow me to pull the bow hard enough to loosen the string and take it off.
I had that problem but all I did was straighten my back and pull up with my back. It's not that hard. All you have to do is "lift" and not try to pull it up.
PLEASE HELP. The other day I was stringing my one-piece vintage Bear Kodiak Hunter and while slipping the top loop onto the end, it flipped backwards and it was strung in a way in which the string went diagonally from the top end where it was strung toward the outside, to the bottom end where it was strung on the opposite side of the bow. I don't see any damage, but do you think the limbs could be twisted/damaged? I am no expert and am afraid of shooting it again. I would really appreciate your thoughts on it. Thank you.
I did just that. It is a large risk, but it was the only thing I could think of doing...pull the top limb in the opposite direction of pull even more to get the string off. My bow is fine and still shoots (Especially considering how it is 50+ years old). If you do go with doing this, do not push it back far. Try applying pressure gradually until you can just barely take the loop off of the limb. There may be better ways, but I did not want to leave it in the position it was and just did this. Try it at you own risk.
Hi Sensei, just need to know if it is normal to have to twist as many times as 30+, in order to get the proper brace height 81/2. My bow is a recurve w&w 66", the string is Fastflight 63"...Or should I get a shorter string?
It sounds like you're reaching an excessive number of twists. I have a hunch that your string might be 63" AMO rather than 63" actual. If your string is 66" AMO, you won't need that many twists.
hey, i was wondering where should i place nock point on my self bow? should the nocking point be right in the center or just a little above the center ?
Hi NuSensei, I have the same bow stringer as you. But my saddle slips down the limb constantly. Is there anything I can do to the saddle to make it grip? Or should I look for a new stringer? Thanks.
Not NuSensai, but this happens to me as I have the same stringer as well. I was told that you have to hold the stringer in place briefly, but after you've provided enough tension, the stringer should stop sliding, allowing you to slide the string up to the nock. It works. I just had to get over my fear of damaging the bow by pulling it up enough so that the stringer stays still.
I ended up stringing the bow with a stringer and the string went the wrong way on one end. I dont know what to do as trying to put tension on it like normal is putting way more tension on the top ends groove section the wrong way. What way can I unstring it with a stringer with having the string catapult back when I remove it with a bit of tension still or without the tip of the top limb being damaged?
So you're saying putting the riser in a bench vise and tieing cinder blocks to the limbs isn't the proper way?! Just kidding, seriously good video. :) I knew of the third method but not the second.
